Yea I forgot to mention the whole coolant hose thing. We were confused at first too. Since I bought my kit used I ended up making my own pathway with new hoses how I wanted it installed. Looks good my man!

 

Thanks man... Yeah powder blue or bust!!!

Lol of course you forgot

Kidding.

So storm, more seriously, did you route yours like mine? Driver side coolant hose from sc manifold goes to reservoir, while passenger side coolant hose from sc manifold goes to front inter cooler passenger hose via coupling.

Also what'd you do with your evap solenoid extension harness??? Same issue as mine???

 

My pass side manifold goes to reservoir. That's all I can really see under my hood and don't really rember the rest haha. I could send you some pictures if you want to pm me your number

 

Oh and the harness. I just plugged it in and left it. The evap system is pretty much useless anyways. If it unplugs oh well I'll tape it or zip tie it

 

Nice updates Burton!!
Glad you most of it done. Hopefully you're able to button her up today. Looks great. Good luck!

 

Thanks storm. I have looked at many many pics and I see conflicting setups. I think the key is that there is a "closed loop".... As long as the pump gets Ty coolant from the reservoir to the front inter cooler to the sc intercooler and back. Look at some of these pics...look at thy hoses behind the SC. Remember the top hose is the passenger side inter cooler and the bottom hose is the driver side. Notice which one goes behind the reservoir to hook into to... It varies in these pics.






Thanks tony. I have to do the boost gauge power next but I don't know which wire is the dimmer...

 

Guys... I need help with how to wire up the electrical portion of the boost gauge. I don't know where to start. Not many helpful threads out there at all. Can anyone help?

 

I sent you a PM before reading the latest, I did not hook up the dimmer so I can't help you there.

 

Just run a fuse tap from a fuse in the fuse box. Use a fuse from a power source that turns off when you turn the key off

 

When you say fuse box which one? Is there one inside the interior rather than the main fuse block? I think I read somewhere that it's on the passenger side... But I don't think I'll have enough wire to get there fuse tap I can buy I assume. Another question I had is where does the white wire go? This pic is from my boost gauge instructions.

 

If your don't have a fuse tap like I showed you in the PM go to a local auto shop and get at least two along with an "eyelet" type butt connector for ground. Also get enough 18 ~ 20 gauge wire to go from the gauge to the passenger side x 3 (one for ignition which I discussed in my PM, one for the constant 12V in your diagram and one for ground) and at least 6 (more would be better incase you screw one up) 18~ 20 gauge butt connectors. Also if you setup didn't come with fuses you'll want to get a couple of those also (if you don't know the amps get 10 to 15 Amp for the gauge). If you don't have a crimping tool for the butt connectors get that also. If you don't have a multi-meter get good or cheap one (as long as it can display 12V). Every guy should have one LOL.
As I told you in the PM do the ignition (orange) but you'll also want to find a fuse that is constant hot (with ignition off) for your red wire in the diagram. Use your two fuse taps for these two and ground (black wire) using the eyelet butt connector to a factory ground (there's one if you pop down the glove box on the glove box frame).

 

Thanks mark. But what's the white wire in my diagram for?

 

Oops forgot info on the fuse box

Fuse box on passenger side, if it's anything like my 2013 (which I'm sure it is) you will need to remove the passenger side boot scrapper (I don't know what it's really called but you know what I mean). Disconnect the electrical connection then remove the panel in the upper left side on the passenger side and you'll find the fuse box under some heavy paper type material. Yes you will need to contort to get up in there but it's very doable.

 

Ok starting that now. FYI, just pull on the gauge cluster towards me to get that all off??? It's freaking me out right now hoping I don't break anything...

 

The white wire is if you want the gauge to react to the dimmer switch which I've never used. You don't have to hook that one up for the gauge to work and light up on ignition. If you want to use it just follow the same wiring procedures but it would tap into the dimmer wire with a "vampire type connector" (see below). To find that wire unless someone chimes in you would have to probe for it with you multi-meter.

 

Sorry I said upper left side when I meant upper right side of the passenger side plastic (under the glove box to your right) to access the fuse panel.

What are you doing with the gauge cluster????????

 

I'm hoping your in the gauge cluster area to install the Roush gauge pod but nowhere during all of this should you need to move or take out the gauge cluster. I looked over the instructions for the gauge pod and you just need to remove the trim around the gauge cluster to install the gauge pod.

 

Yeah that's what I meant lol... Just the trim.. I got it off. Just freaks me out pulling all that. I'm just getting everything in place now before I do the wiring.

 

Good to know, I was getting worried when you said you were pulling out the gauge cluster.

So run all your electrical wires under the drivers side and under the center console area (a straightened out metal hanger and some electrical tape to tie the wires to it helps a lot) then get into your fuse panel on the right side of the passenger area. If you drop the glove box it will help and you can run all your wires behind the glove box. To drop the glove box just open it up gently pull on one side until the piece pops out of place then do the other side (simple but be gentle).

 

Sorry if you know all the below I just want to make sure you don't have any problems. I tried to send this as a PM but it was to long.

Set the meter so it will read 12 V DC
Make sure your probes are plugged into the meter correctly (black for ground)
Take the ground probe and attach it or hold it (attaching is MUCH easier on you) to a ground source (the one on the glove box frame works great)
Use the owners manual to figure out which fuse you want to probe.
Take your red probe and touch it to one of the two metal probe locations on top of the fuse) (see picture below)
Remember you're looking for one constant hot even with ignition off and one that is only hot when ignition is on.
Pull the appropriate fuse out and insert it into the bottom of the two fuse connections on the fuse tap. Put your purchased fuse in the upper connection of the fuse tape.
Insert the fuse tap into the factory box where the original fuse was.