Yup, sure is!


Thanks Rocky ... if I remember right I'm at about -1.7 degrees of camber, slightly out of spec but no weird tire wear, and good handling, so I'm OK with things as is, no wish to do camber plates anytime soon

 

So are you at - 1.7 degrees of camber with the factory bolts or did you upgrade to either Eibach or BMR camber bolts Gabe ? If your at -1.7 degrees with the stock bolts, your still pretty much within factory specs and don't really need to upgrade to either caster/camber plates or camber bolts anyhow

 

I'm on H&R Supersports with Eibach camber bolts and running -1.5 up front. From my experience, it's a good setup for street driving. I think they're maxed at -1.7

 

Factory bolts, GT500 mounts.

I despise Eibach after 3 of the 4 springs I had on my '07 Charger broke, badly rusted, left-rear spring broken in 3 pieces.
Lost faith in the company, and purposely bought Steeda springs since all my research found that Eibach doesn't make them for Steeda.

 

I'm not an Eibach fan either. Just happened to get the bolts with my springs. When I get my bags on, they're going bye bye.

 

Do you have a coolant leak? Looking at the thermostat housing you can see the rosy color coming off of it. Maybe it is just the way the light is reflecting through the secondary tank or maybe it is just me.

 

Gabe ! I was really shocked after reading that 3 of the 4 Eibach springs broke on you and even more so about the left rear broken in 3 places WOW !!!!

Anyhow I don't blame you in the least bit for losing faith in Eibach as somebody could had been seriously injured or even worse in the event of the spring failures causing a major accident..

What I don't quite understand however is this.. Shouldn't had Eibach replaced those faulty springs under their one million mile warranty policy ?

As it's more than obvious that 3 of those 4 springs definitely fall under the manufacture's defect category.. At any rate, I hope you did file a warranty claim with Eibach and also hope they backed your claim, otherwise I'd be filing a lawsuit to say the very least..


All I can say is.. Despite after 8 years with none of the spring related issues in which you unfortunately went through, I can certainly understand your reasons for losing faith with Eibach and hope for their sake they've taken every single step in reassuring the public that the defects in question have since been addressed and won't happen again in the future

 

Patrick and Gabe !

If I'm reading my print out accurately ? it appears both my left and right front camber is at -1.1 degrees with both the Koni adj yellow struts and Eibach camber bolts at the max adj settings..

From what my Ford tech said.. Although my camber is within Ford factory specs, he recommends that an additional 2 degrees are required in order to have an optimal front end alignment in his opinion

My other alignment specs are..

Left and Right front caster: 7.4 degrees

Left front toe: 0.03 degrees

Right front toe: 0.09 degrees

Front total toe: 0.12 degrees

Front steer ahead: -0.03 degrees

 

It must've been just the way the color reflected, no coolant leak.

Thought about asking for a complete new set, but I assumed they were gonna ask me to send them the springs I had with me paying for the shipping (something I wasn't willing to do), and that they would only replace the 3 broken ones.
Never contacted them.

I threw the springs in the trash.



Not sure about the other settings, but the camber should be just fine at -1.1

A more negative number (like my -1.7) means the tops of the tires angle inward more, kinda like this: / \ which means better handling but too much negative camber will kill the tires from the uneven wear.

 

No way you should be running -3.1* on a street car. That's extreme camber. -1.1 is fine, though like I said, somewhere around -1.5 to -1.7 is ideal for better handling, with no additional tire wear. Once you'd get to -2, you'll notice edge wear a lot faster.

 

Gabe ! Your assumption would had been correct, as Eibach would've indeed required you send them back the defective springs in order to investigate what caused them to fail before processing your claim and then who knows how long it would take before getting your new replacements..

So once again, I don't blame you one bit for losing faith with Eibach after everything you went through.. As I could totally understand if just one of those springs were defective, but 3 out of 4 is totally unacceptable in which not only would I had contacted them to voice my anger, but would also demand a complete new set at their expense or issue a total refund..

At any rate, now that you've brought this to my attention, I'll be looking at either Steeda or BMR for my next set of springs..





Unless I misunderstood what my Ford tech said.. I have no idea why he would recommend another - 2 degrees of camber to be considered as an optimal front alignment

 

Perhaps I misunderstood what the Ford tech said Patrick.. Maybe he meant an additional - 0.2/-0.5 degrees of camber to be considered as an optimal spec measurement

 

Yeah I can see the tech recommending another .2 degrees but not another 2 degrees


And as far as my broken Eibachs ...

 

That makes more sense...

 

Gabe ! I am really tempted to show your pics to Eibach and as I said earlier, when it comes to nearly a complete set breaking.. This in my opinion is just unacceptable in which Eibach needs to take full responsibility by standing by their products and address these defect issues before somebody ends up getting either seriously injured or killed

 

Same here Patrick.. In the meantime, I'll just have the directional arrows on the GT500 strut mounts turned in more towards the engine and hopefully that will provide the additional .2 degrees required, otherwise I'll just stick with -1.1 camber as is

 

Wait is he suggesting +0.2 or -0.2...as in, a final camber of -0.9 to -1.0 or a final camber of -1.3 to -1.5?

If he's suggesting to get to 0.9-1.0, don't even worry about it at all.

 

I'm not really sure Patrick ! I believe he's suggesting another -0.2 as he said -1.1 is within Ford factory specs, but in his opinion -1.1 isn't considered as quite optimal enough in his opinion.. He also mentioned the Eibach camber bolts are already maxed out as far as they can go and can't be adjusted out any further.. So I assume he's also referring to a final camber of -1.3 to -1.5


What I do know for certain, is the print out sheet on the bottom for recommended procedure has: No adjustments are required..

 

BMR > Eibach.
Any day, all day.

 

Well, some unfortunate developments yesterday.

I tried to drive it to work yesterday, it didn't want to go there apparently.

On the highway, cruising along, started hearing a rattling noise from under the car, banging noises when slowing down, any gear, any speed.
Engine still running fine, trans shifting OK and feeling OK.
Pull over, don't see anything dragging under the car, no parts on the ground.
Try to putt-putt it back home, quickly becoming late for work, stopped at a local shop to have them put it up in the air, hoping it's just something loose like a trans mount or driveshaft safety loop, everything looked tight, but the driveshaft was making some interesting noises:




So I spent this morning putting the car up on jack stands and trying to remove the DSS driveshaft, come to find out I don't have the 8mm allen-head sockets I need to remove the rear bolts.
Allen wrench I have, but don't have enough leverage under there to use it


One more video, showing the in-car experience, clanging/rattling/banging noises heard from under the car: