bubbling hood paint... UGH!!
#61
Legacy TMS Member
re: the wire or whatever in the blue paint... That goes back to properly prepping the hood in the first place. That shouldn't be there, so why is it?
All the other edges, there is no doubt in my mind that the paint ain't goin' anywhere on most properly prepped hoods.
All the other edges, there is no doubt in my mind that the paint ain't goin' anywhere on most properly prepped hoods.
#63
legacy Tms Member
Deysha,
ever heard any feedback from AAI on the auto show paint pics in post #50? just curious if anything was being changed, or if the pics were just nit-picking a 'non issue' of ecoat stuff...
thanks,
Tim
ever heard any feedback from AAI on the auto show paint pics in post #50? just curious if anything was being changed, or if the pics were just nit-picking a 'non issue' of ecoat stuff...
thanks,
Tim
#64
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Deysha
#65
I have an 06 mustang that had the hood rot problem, and had it fixed once. Now it has come back again, in the same places and Ford wants me to pay to have it fixed this time, it should have been fixed correctly the first time. So basically what my dealership is saying is that every couple years I'm going to have to fork out money to keep my aluminum hood from looking like it is rusting, when this is clearly a manufacturing defect. I wonder what will happen if Ford loses the class action suit against them because of this problem.
#66
Legacy TMS Member
Again the mention of a class action.
Where is the documentation for this? I've not seen any except one post elsewhere, and that was only the *possibility* someone would do it.
By the way, the reason it's coming back is the paint shop isn't good at their job, and didn't do it correctly. This isn't steel, but if it's falling off again? They painted it as if it was.
The place I work at, the body shop has Lifetime Warranty on anything they work on, so as long as you had your paperwork, you could get it reshot.
I have a feeling, though, they wouldn't have a repeating problem... but that's just me being overconfident in my work's shops.
You HAVE TO TELL THEM to do it with AP or Self Etching Primer on the bare metal of the hood, or they won't do it.
Where is the documentation for this? I've not seen any except one post elsewhere, and that was only the *possibility* someone would do it.
By the way, the reason it's coming back is the paint shop isn't good at their job, and didn't do it correctly. This isn't steel, but if it's falling off again? They painted it as if it was.
The place I work at, the body shop has Lifetime Warranty on anything they work on, so as long as you had your paperwork, you could get it reshot.
I have a feeling, though, they wouldn't have a repeating problem... but that's just me being overconfident in my work's shops.
You HAVE TO TELL THEM to do it with AP or Self Etching Primer on the bare metal of the hood, or they won't do it.
#67
legacy Tms Member
By the way, the reason it's coming back is the paint shop isn't good at their job, and didn't do it correctly. This isn't steel, but if it's falling off again? They painted it as if it was.
The place I work at, the body shop has Lifetime Warranty on anything they work on, so as long as you had your paperwork, you could get it reshot.
I have a feeling, though, they wouldn't have a repeating problem... but that's just me being overconfident in my work's shops.
You HAVE TO TELL THEM to do it with AP or Self Etching Primer on the bare metal of the hood, or they won't do it.
The place I work at, the body shop has Lifetime Warranty on anything they work on, so as long as you had your paperwork, you could get it reshot.
I have a feeling, though, they wouldn't have a repeating problem... but that's just me being overconfident in my work's shops.
You HAVE TO TELL THEM to do it with AP or Self Etching Primer on the bare metal of the hood, or they won't do it.
I still wonder though about how pretty the seams are on the cheep hyundai, with the clean, nicely applied bead of adhesive/sealer compared to the only partly sealed mustang hood- while I'm generally as unhappy as anyone with it, still a ford guy and I hope a class action never appears- its not just mustang, but most all ford models since 2000 with aluminum parts if you read up on it... if a class action comes up only the lawyers ever make out, and the damage to ford could be huge... just hope ford gets in the game here and can at least match hyundai's fitting quality- hurts to even write that, but as the hyundai pics show, its not impossible even for a cheep car to be put together with a little more care... and its not just ford- look at the door hems on a silverado/hummer compared to a hyundai- showed a couple guys at work they were amazed at how sloppy the gm hems were by comparison...buddy of mine just bought a new cruze, i didnt nit-pick it to him, but the trunk/quarter flange area is horrible fitwise if you look up close with the trunk closed...new silverado pickups tend to have wavy rear quarter wheel openings...
#68
Legacy TMS Member
I dunno Houtex...fords own TSB said it was caused by iron contamination- basically the tooling used to form the hood hem rubbed thru the coating and iron imbedded in the aluminum- under the crimp... no way to fix that permanently as the root of the corrosion is inaccessible...eventually it will creep back under the part that gets repainted.
#69
Legacy TMS Member
Indeed, Tim, if it was contaminated, then the iron is riding on the aluminum, and there's nothing in the world that'll prevent the paint from lifting. Nor for ecoat, or any other contaminant... even oil from fingerprints.
I've read the TSB that explains things, as well as what to do to fix it. Their procedure, with the exception of not using AP or Self Etch Primer, should fix the problem... by and large. You might get an 80% success rate overall, but the second time, if it is a second time, should pretty much get it done. The only issue with the procedure is that they're media blasting (great), then 180 grit sanding (fantastic), then epoxy primer (that's all?, then the rest to make it pretty (standard stuff here anyway.)
That is fine, on any other surface, but on the alloy metal, even the 180 grit sanding may not be enough to stick on this stuff. The epoxy is hard, and as such is a good coating, but if the aluminum doesn't stick to it, then it's worthless.
Regardless of that, that anyone goes back for a second or third time for the same thing? The people doing it didn't do the TSB, that's a guaran-dang-tee.
I've read the TSB that explains things, as well as what to do to fix it. Their procedure, with the exception of not using AP or Self Etch Primer, should fix the problem... by and large. You might get an 80% success rate overall, but the second time, if it is a second time, should pretty much get it done. The only issue with the procedure is that they're media blasting (great), then 180 grit sanding (fantastic), then epoxy primer (that's all?, then the rest to make it pretty (standard stuff here anyway.)
That is fine, on any other surface, but on the alloy metal, even the 180 grit sanding may not be enough to stick on this stuff. The epoxy is hard, and as such is a good coating, but if the aluminum doesn't stick to it, then it's worthless.
Regardless of that, that anyone goes back for a second or third time for the same thing? The people doing it didn't do the TSB, that's a guaran-dang-tee.
Last edited by houtex; 6/22/13 at 09:58 PM.
#70
http://wheels.blogs.nytimes.com/2013...-forward/?_r=0
#71
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Here is a link to a story in the NY Times about the suit dated March 15, 2013.
http://wheels.blogs.nytimes.com/2013...-forward/?_r=0
#72
Mach 1 Member
My Ford dealer (body shop manger) wants $1700 to fix the corrosion problem on my hood
Anybody going after market ? Where are the best deals ?
I remember seeing a carbon fiber hood on ebay for $400 something (free shipping) last year but nothing like it now. As widespread as this is they know they`ve got us !
Anybody going after market ? Where are the best deals ?
I remember seeing a carbon fiber hood on ebay for $400 something (free shipping) last year but nothing like it now. As widespread as this is they know they`ve got us !
#73
Legacy TMS Member
Here is a link to a story in the NY Times about the suit dated March 15, 2013.
http://wheels.blogs.nytimes.com/2013...-forward/?_r=0
http://wheels.blogs.nytimes.com/2013...-forward/?_r=0
I think it could, of course, but there's no need to unnecessarily get peoples hopes up.
If he wins (and he *might*... judges/juries are weird, people...) and it goes class action, ya for us.
If he wins and it doesn't go class action, well, each of us has precedent and that can be useful.. if we decide to go sue Ford in the first place as individuals.
Of course, if he loses, game over, man game over.
#74
Legacy TMS Member
Interesting read. My 05's hood lip is blistering pretty well. I noticed it a couple of years ago, but it was off warranty, so I just kept an eye on it.
Will be following this with interest.
Will be following this with interest.
#75
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So only under warranty period, even if you address these issues during it while warranty.
Ford you need to do something NOW. F150 is a important role in Ford success. And if you worry customer expectations now, who will trust it later?
Last edited by UnrealFord; 6/23/13 at 08:00 PM.
#76
legacy Tms Member
Did the service personnel to whom you talked make any reference to "e-coat blowout" rather than iron contamination? I have been under the impression from the many posts I've read on these forums, as well as the experience with my 2010's hood, that it is the heat cycling that causes the migration of that material out from the seams and underneath the paint, which causes the bubbling.
as for heat cycling, that was kinda my concern too- as if the very sharp edge of the crimp moves at all from vibration/thermal causes, the paint film would likely break at the sharp edge...kinda why I thought adding a bead of sealer might be good as it can flex more than paint and keep moisture out... I see what youre saying about maybe heat cycling pushing out whatever they have separating the panels under the paint, but from the looks of mine, this wasnt the case- I could take a fingernail and lift the paint anywhere along the edge blisters, the film was pretty much just cut clean right along the edge, no sign of anything but powdery white corrosion under it...dunno
#77
Legacy TMS Member
hmm... with the pics i took at the auto show, I thought the 'boil out' issue was prior to paint, in one of the dip tanks or whatever they use to clean/coat the assemblies before paint- from the horribly jagged edges seen on some brand new hoods, this seems pretty believeable- I have no idea what the process is though...
as for heat cycling, that was kinda my concern too- as if the very sharp edge of the crimp moves at all from vibration/thermal causes, the paint film would likely break at the sharp edge...kinda why I thought adding a bead of sealer might be good as it can flex more than paint and keep moisture out... I see what youre saying about maybe heat cycling pushing out whatever they have separating the panels under the paint, but from the looks of mine, this wasnt the case- I could take a fingernail and lift the paint anywhere along the edge blisters, the film was pretty much just cut clean right along the edge, no sign of anything but powdery white corrosion under it...dunno
as for heat cycling, that was kinda my concern too- as if the very sharp edge of the crimp moves at all from vibration/thermal causes, the paint film would likely break at the sharp edge...kinda why I thought adding a bead of sealer might be good as it can flex more than paint and keep moisture out... I see what youre saying about maybe heat cycling pushing out whatever they have separating the panels under the paint, but from the looks of mine, this wasnt the case- I could take a fingernail and lift the paint anywhere along the edge blisters, the film was pretty much just cut clean right along the edge, no sign of anything but powdery white corrosion under it...dunno
Not that I doubt there could definitely be iron contamination, but it seems that attempting a fix requires careful surface preparation in areas that are hard to get. And I think some repair people aren't spending the necessary time to do it.
#78
Mach 1 Member
My Ford dealer (body shop manger) wants $1700 to fix the corrosion problem on my hood
Anybody going after market ? Where are the best deals ?
I remember seeing a carbon fiber hood on ebay for $400 something (free shipping) last year but nothing like it now. As widespread as this is they know they`ve got us !
Anybody going after market ? Where are the best deals ?
I remember seeing a carbon fiber hood on ebay for $400 something (free shipping) last year but nothing like it now. As widespread as this is they know they`ve got us !
Be sure to read the story. Understand it's not yet a class action. It's a singluar case that COULD go class action.
I think it could, of course, but there's no need to unnecessarily get peoples hopes up.
If he wins (and he *might*... judges/juries are weird, people...) and it goes class action, ya for us.
If he wins and it doesn't go class action, well, each of us has precedent and that can be useful.. if we decide to go sue Ford in the first place as individuals.
Of course, if he loses, game over, man game over.
I think it could, of course, but there's no need to unnecessarily get peoples hopes up.
If he wins (and he *might*... judges/juries are weird, people...) and it goes class action, ya for us.
If he wins and it doesn't go class action, well, each of us has precedent and that can be useful.. if we decide to go sue Ford in the first place as individuals.
Of course, if he loses, game over, man game over.
#79
Legacy TMS Member
No, it won't. However, the precedent *might* be admissible. It would highly depend on the court system, and if there is precedent of such a use of foreign decisions in that way. I myself wouldn't know, and I have no idea how to quickly google for a definitive answer on this angle.
#80
legacy Tms Member
just curious on a opinion- would you agree a bead of flexible seam sealer enclosing the edge might help? in my thinking, even if something seeps out under the paint, a pliable cushion of seam sealer could allow it to creep even lift edge of paint without exposing it to moisture, as the sealer overlaps the paint above and below the edge... or do you think any sealer would just lift like the paint too?