joeblackis

Yeah it sucks, I forget the name of document they describes this issue, But it is a flaw direct from the factory when iron particles come in contact with the aluminium before and/or during the paint process.

They will repair it if it is under the 3yr 36k mile warranty but not 1 day after. Mine doesnt appear to have gotten any worse since my post 8 months ago but it is just a matter of time.

The best solution looks to be aftermarket hoods that are not aluminum.

The ford dealer even told me that they couldnt guarantee that after they repaired it that it wouldnt be an issue later on?!

That carbon ebay auction seems like a really good deal at 435 and free shipping. To repair the little amount of bubbling it was going to cost 450-500 dollars from a ford dealer.

Can anyone recommend anywhere else I should get aftermarket hood from?

ford4v429

Heres where i got my shaker hood- used to be marketed by Fang, but when they went under Aeroform started selling them direct... Pretty nice piece of fiberglass

http://afmustang.com/05-09hoods.aspx

joeblackis

thank you I will check them out.
Is replacing the hood something that can be done on my own? Or take it to a shop to put it oun? Also I am assuming they would need to be painted before putting them on the car.

Jek57

Yea mine did the same thing took it to the dealer it was still under warranty they took a pic sent it to ford ..they would not cover it .and the dealer blew me off also. Where is yours peeling at?. Mine was mostly underneath and a little on the lip i took care of it myself sanded the bad spots down and used por15 to seal it up see how long it last.

KdF

Mine has just a little showin on the crimp. Altho it has NEVER been in the rain, it's still doing it and I have 16.6K on the clock. I wash it and then blow it off with a blower, even under the hood and engine bay. I also Zaino that spot every wax. And it lives mostly in the garage. Can you believe that Ford is now going to make their Pick-Up's out of Aluminum??? I can just wait for the complaints.

werdna65

Car companies have used aluminium with no problems, its how they prep it. They also don't undercoat it much

ford4v429

Hoods are best swapped with help of two friends...they arent heavy, but are easily damaged, so is the windshield

The hood will need test fitted/aligned, edges sanded, touched up if needed, a few dabs of spot putty likely as there usually a few spots missed, i'd scratch a alignment mark for the hinge so it will be visible after painting the underside, pull it back off, get it painted, and carefully reinstall...

Most fiberglass stuff will need at least some prep work, aeroforms was nice, but ive seen some pretty rough fiberglass parts out there too... Not unusual to spend hours blocking a glass part straight before its useable. Watch out too, some glass hoods dont have steel inserts/require hood pins- i wouldnt go that way...i did add hood pins, but just because i liked them

Most shops will probably suggest painting underside, installing, then painting/blending the fender tops for color matching... I just sprayed ours and put it back on, color was close enough to suit me.

Note, i asked a local shop for paint estimate, 800 unstriped, another 400 to stripe it... I had a few hundred in materials, used the dirty side draft booth at work, but it came out ok...paint is very expensive these days

DPHC13

Hello? Ford? Hello? I can't believe how fast my hood is deteriorating. My beautiful Mustang looks like it has herpes on the front of it... or maybe warts. Does Ford have a cream for this?

FordService

Hi Jek57,

Please PM me with your VIN, dealer, mileage, full name, and best daytime number so I can review this for you.

We sure do, DPHC13! It’s called "bringurridein". This concern must be brought to their attention as soon as possible, before you go applying creams on it though. Your Service Manger is in the best position to look into this for you. He can check into any warranty, Recalls, or Customer Satisfaction Programs that may apply to your vehicle. Let me know the outcome.

Deysha

ford4v429

Deysha,
could you please forward the pics below to someone at AAI- if they dont believe them, have them have someone visit the Cleveland auto show, only the green car on display looks OK. Green car was first one I looked at, was VERY glad to see the 2013 hood had sealant applied to the front lip- but look at the 2 missapplied sealant spots on the blue one.
someone in the bodyshop is not keeping a eye on this. look at the blistering(or sealer?) on the other cars. my undriven, 4 mile 09 looks the same, but a fingernail on mine revealed crunchy white corrosion, not sealer...I didnt pick at the ones at the show, they arent mine

the green one looked OK, the silver one just looked relatively horrible on the right front edge- wether somebody didnt clean it up right, or it had advanced blistering already, I dunno...either way, not good as it could be. the front edges on all 4 cars looked sealed pretty tight, except one tiny spot on the silver one- still sealed, but right on the edge of the hem- and the 2 pretty obviously missed areas on the blue one. the last pic of the blue one showing a little wire or metal burr sticking out of the drivers side corner- tiny BUT first time someone wipes it off, that will break away leaving a tiny hole in the paint...tiny things like this can have a huge effect down the road.
note- on the orange car, the thing i was looking at wasnt the whitish spots so apparent in the pic, they were just missed waterspots from washing, but right in the middle of the picture above the hem edge is a very small inclusion in the paint, look close to see...maybe just some contaminant under the paint was missed, but my guess is in a few years those are the little spots that balloon up so fast.

next to last last pic is from a cheep hyundai... look at the care taken on the hood seams- I'm a Ford guy, but this I find upsetting. Ford needs to get up with the competition. glad to see a attempt at least has been made, but in my opinion they need to monitor the process better at a minimum, as obviously the blue hood sealant application is wrong...after seeing that, I was hoping someone from one of the bodyshops or AAI mighta been at the show, but the 3 folks i spoke with didnt know of any...

I really think a 5 minute talk in the plant might be able to prevent countless ford buyers a couple years down the road from being upset with Ford... the mustangs a great product, but theres at least this one little issue still not as corrected as it *could* be. personally would like to see a lot more effort in the hidden edges like hyundai. Not a hyundai fan, but gotta say the attention to detail is pretty darn impressive.

I'm not meaning to nit-pick at ford like some crazed camaro(or hyundai) fan or something, just hoped someone might be able to accept some constructive criticism and pass it along for consideration...maybe these pics show nothing at all, but dont shoot the messenger
thanks,
Tim (a Ford fan- seriously)

FordService

Thank you very much for the info, ford4v429!

Deysha

Tony Alonso

Send it to Ralph Arning (if he still is with Ford at Flat Rock Assembly)

UnrealFord

The sealer is called Mastic I believe. Is the Mastic the issue or moisture and corrosion getting into areas?

ford4v429

my personal opinion is the edge is not deburred before the crimp- sealer between panels or not, they are applying paint over burrs/sharp edges...once the film is broken, moisture gets in and the aluminum gets that white/powdery surface oxidation, lifting the paint, and becoming exponentially more area under the paint film to hold moisture.
once it starts, it goes fast. my 06 hood went from a few little irregular edges to several inches of blisters in about 2 months time... since replacing the hood, the original has been up in the rafters of my garage, hasnt gotten any worse...simply dont get it wet and its fine ...

I think simply deburring the irregular/sharp edges would help a lot at maintaining the paint edge, BUT if a bead of caulking were applied to adhere/cover the ragged spots, odds are corrosion would be no faster than anywhere else... seeing sealant WAS added to the most troublesome front lip (my guess is the film cracks there first from simple use- dropping the hood and buffeting against the latch- dont think it would be impossible to get a tiny bit of panel shift, and the front gets most of the direct moisture exposure), the adhesion qualities alone should keep some of the issues at bay- but sealing moisture out/covering ALL the sharp edges is probably best way to maintain paint film- the missed spots on the blue hood concern me there...

the pic with the little wire or whatever (last pic of blue hood) shows some really rough edges...all it takes is one tiny break in the paint film to start the ball rolling. the large irregular areas on the silver hood seem too much/too soon to be corrosion, but still appears to be lack of proper cleaning/prep...if the rest of them arent that bad, that one shouldnt be either.
if that was a sealer/residue, and it simply didnt get cleaned off prior to paint, what else didnt get cleaned off- know what i mean? just think there should be a bit more attention being paid here as these things go down the line before paint...in paint especially 'a ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure' applies. painting is easy- adequate prep is a bear...

it can be better, and I'm pretty confident if the folks on the line monitoring the process are made aware of some stuff that it looks less than world-class going out the door, they can adjust monitoring/process to prevent it...look at the pictures, its not as good as the competition- lets get it there

houtex

I would rather that they do that, get it there... and fix us who were afflicted by it in the first place.

It is horrible, and it irritates me to no end, that this is the first and only original paint on a car's hood that will not stay on that I've ever had from Ford, and I've had a LOT of Fords.

But whatever. I can paint it as easily as I can complain. Just... seems wrong they don't man up and fix it.

And they're gonna make a whole truck bodied in aluminum? Well... the amount of trucks they sell, there will be a whole lot of paint being reapplied for free...

That sounds very non-profitable. Ford should consider that... and maybe fix ours while they're at it. Whoops, there goes that profit again...

FordService

How did you know? That’s my favorite person up there, Tony Alonso. What you see in these pictures is e-coat boil out at the hem flange. I’ve sent the info up the ladder.

Deysha

Tony Alonso

I've met Ralph on several tours. He mentioned that he was one of the people who works to ensure that defects get handled BEFORE the car leaves the plant. I never forgot that

And yes, I have also heard that one cause for blistering was the e-coat that comes out of the hem flange. Not saying that there isn't aluminum corrosion for the original poster here, but this is a process that seems to have no solution that was implemented. I have the blistering on my 2010 as well. The paint has not cracked open, so I just still see the bubbles.

However, since it continues to be a customer dissatisfier, maybe there is some running change in the manufacturing process or some warranty claims that can be approved for a hood repaint so that the complaints go down.

Thanks, Deysha, for your continued support, and tell Ralph we know he can help us out

ford4v429

thanks Deysha

if its just sealant showing, good to know, but hopefully if they look at the rough edges/wire sticking out on the blue car and the holes in the sealant, maybe at least that point that out to folks on the line and the area can get looked at a bit closer prior to paint. I still feel the sharp edge is the cause of the paint failing though...on my 06 hood I picked at the blisters and where the edge lifted easily, the sheetmetal was really sharp... its hard to paint a razorblade- kinda think this might be why many OEMs seal the entire hem, caulking can wrap around sharp edges to protect it, paint not so much...

just now rethinking, I probably contributed to the paint failure on my 06 by cleaning/waxing under the hood- and possibly the reason for so many front lip failures is simply wiping over the area when washing/drying the car...any pressure on the paint film over the sharp edges might tend to cause a break in the film along the sharp edge...the sides dont usually get rubbed when washing/drying the cars, but the front lip underside does, often the rear/cowl edge too... thinking in those terms, caulking sounds like a better fix than the original suggestion I was making on deburring... consistent deburring is not easy to achieve in production, but robotic caulking is everywhere these days...

houtex

If the surface is properly prepped for primer and paint, and those properly applied, paint WILL STAY on the sharp edges. You did nothing wrong. Normally, you would take *years* to rub paint off a sharp edge with a wash and dry, unless your towels (or what ever other instrument of rubbing you were using) had hard contaminants like dust or a rock or something in it as you rubbed.

So, no, you didn't contribute to anything. This is a flaw in the process, and always has (and may well continue to be) with the aluminum and how Ford is (was?) doing it.

If this were to be true, other places with "sharp" edges (because there really aren't any if they're being made right) would also be rubbing off, and they're not.

ford4v429

maybe- but look again at that wire or whatever in the blue hood- its so small drying with a microfiber would certainly snag/break it off, leaving a tiny hole in the paint...and thats all it takes. these edges are not like a crease or door edge, they are more like a razor blade, and in areas that is trimmed ragged... if they were to properly clean and paint a porcupine, I think it would still have trouble, know what i mean?


the more I look at the hem, the more I think caulking the sharp edge to both adhere(preventing any panel shift to break the ecoat) and protect the sharp edge (jagged/improperly cleaned underneath or not) from moisture I think the things would last as long as the rest of the car...only concern would be are there drains/should there be drains? I was(still am) worried about my shaker hood, the thing is hollow where the scoop blows thru, certainly the front will collect water and freeze in winter... havent seen any cracks yet, so *assume* they sealed it far enough upstream to keep water from getting in thin enough areas to achieve frost damage... maybe thats whats tearing up Ford hoods? if water collects in thin sections, freezing might shift the seam enough to shift the seam a tiny bit breaking the edge loose... plus water entrapped would be fuel to the fire...hmm

OK, Ive talked myself into a decision- before the 09 gets washed again the hood is coming off, getting tilted to each side and flooded with thick paint which will be poured out after it fills all the internal crevices, and afterwards will be able to get pictures of any spots where the paint seeps thru- that would be bad- and after dried/repeat till its sealed except any obvious drains...then a bead of 3m seam sealer around the perimeter, and a paintjob to look like a hyundai edge...
on my 06, i did similar to the unibody when brand new- my wife came out to the garage and saw a brand new car with the hood/fenders off, doorpanels off, etc... I used syringe/tubing to shoot paint into all downward pinchwelds, when it started seeping out, ductaped the edge to fill it, jacked the car front/rear to pour out the excess... mighta been silly, but I'm pretty confident its a Uboat underneath, and only the lowest points are open...just behind the headlights under the fenders is a 'scoop' that blows roadspray right into the upper fenderwell arm, I attached(with 3m seam sealer) little 'reverse scoops' over them to allow breathing, but no roadspray direct entry. the lower fender corners are 'glued' to the floorpan, both sides had rust under the sealer at the floor seam...sealed that up/let dry, painted, then reglued with seamsealer just in case it was deliberate to keep from rattling. in the doorjamb are foam inserts with 'up' cutout...the 'up' also fills the foam with water, both sides had water pour out the bottom when the fenders were pulled off, the fender fit so tight it cut thru the foam to the hard plastic center, leaving a wet vertical line on the fender...mind you this was a brand new car that had been dry/inside a week as i tore it apart...