bubbling hood paint... UGH!!
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From: Insane
Deysha, no offense or attempt to pry or anything like that, honest, but I cannot help but be *highly* interested in what you have to say to timberwolffxdl. Because his car being an '07 should mean he's out of luck on anything regarding that hood, according to Ford's warranty expiration and subsequent not-so-good-will on the problems with the hood paint.
Very interested indeed. For if there's some sort of info, as an '06 owner, and on behalf of all owners, I would very much like to have any 'new' info that this person might get.
Timber, the truth is, that hood is out of all the warranties, so the only thing you'll be talking about is the cost to repaint, OEM replace and paint, or aftermarket replace, fitment, and repaint.
Very interested indeed. For if there's some sort of info, as an '06 owner, and on behalf of all owners, I would very much like to have any 'new' info that this person might get.
Timber, the truth is, that hood is out of all the warranties, so the only thing you'll be talking about is the cost to repaint, OEM replace and paint, or aftermarket replace, fitment, and repaint.
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From: Dearborn, MI
Deysha, no offense or attempt to pry or anything like that, honest, but I cannot help but be *highly* interested in what you have to say to timberwolffxdl. Because his car being an '07 should mean he's out of luck on anything regarding that hood, according to Ford's warranty expiration and subsequent not-so-good-will on the problems with the hood paint.
Very interested indeed. For if there's some sort of info, as an '06 owner, and on behalf of all owners, I would very much like to have any 'new' info that this person might get.
Timber, the truth is, that hood is out of all the warranties, so the only thing you'll be talking about is the cost to repaint, OEM replace and paint, or aftermarket replace, fitment, and repaint.
Very interested indeed. For if there's some sort of info, as an '06 owner, and on behalf of all owners, I would very much like to have any 'new' info that this person might get.
Timber, the truth is, that hood is out of all the warranties, so the only thing you'll be talking about is the cost to repaint, OEM replace and paint, or aftermarket replace, fitment, and repaint.
I do thank you for your knowledge full posts though. Have a good one!
Deysha
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I made the post and sent the PM pretty much my first hour on the forum. After further reading I was convinced my option was to find an aftermarket hood. 
Harley-Davidson has a problem with inner primary bearings going bad in many of their 2006+ motorcycles. They are authorizing dealers to fix them (a fairly labor intensive and expensive fix) for most owners with affected bikes, regardless of year and miles. To me, this says volumes about their customer service and commitment to customer loyalty.
I held out the smallest hope that Ford was doing something similar.
Harley-Davidson has a problem with inner primary bearings going bad in many of their 2006+ motorcycles. They are authorizing dealers to fix them (a fairly labor intensive and expensive fix) for most owners with affected bikes, regardless of year and miles. To me, this says volumes about their customer service and commitment to customer loyalty.
I held out the smallest hope that Ford was doing something similar.
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From: Insane
None taken, houtex. There are no new hidden secrets about this concern. He reached out to me via PM and I can’t ignore it because you guys filled him in on what may happen. It’s my job to educate him on his warranty, and what next steps he may take with his dealer since he is in fact out of the new-vehicle limited warranty.
I do thank you for your knowledge full posts though. Have a good one!
Deysha
I do thank you for your knowledge full posts though. Have a good one!
Deysha
Yer the best!
Legacy TMS Member
Joined: February 2, 2004
Posts: 7,648
Likes: 675
From: Insane
I made the post and sent the PM pretty much my first hour on the forum. After further reading I was convinced my option was to find an aftermarket hood.
Harley-Davidson has a problem with inner primary bearings going bad in many of their 2006+ motorcycles. They are authorizing dealers to fix them (a fairly labor intensive and expensive fix) for most owners with affected bikes, regardless of year and miles. To me, this says volumes about their customer service and commitment to customer loyalty.
I held out the smallest hope that Ford was doing something similar.
Harley-Davidson has a problem with inner primary bearings going bad in many of their 2006+ motorcycles. They are authorizing dealers to fix them (a fairly labor intensive and expensive fix) for most owners with affected bikes, regardless of year and miles. To me, this says volumes about their customer service and commitment to customer loyalty.
I held out the smallest hope that Ford was doing something similar.
But when it's a safety concern, and/or might get the NHTSA involved in an ordered recall, then they will usually figure it out that it's best to get the thing fixed rather than have someone maimed/die because of it.
The hoods aren't that kind of a concern, hence the 'oh well' status of the out of warranty paint issue. And since they don't, and won't, ever perforate without a LOT of help in anyone's lifetime, or even a few decendent's, they're just gonna say 'nope'.
It will unfortunately take a class action to get that money out of them. Which means someone has to get it far enough in the court system. There's people trying, but... It may take the F150's aluminum bodies to get it done... provided Ford hasn't learned from the Mustang hoods and fixed the problem for the F150s... and time will tell with that.
/*Stands by, watching the trucks' paint.*
Thanks, houtex!
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From: Virginia
Deysha, I just got back from my dealer and they told me there was nothing they could do, but offered let me pay 500 and they would cover the other "2k" that it would cost. I don't believe that. It's a '12 that I bought in 11, it's a few months out of warrenty, but not miles. I know it's "which comes first." Is there anything that can be done?
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From: Dearborn, MI
Deysha, I just got back from my dealer and they told me there was nothing they could do, but offered let me pay 500 and they would cover the other "2k" that it would cost. I don't believe that. It's a '12 that I bought in 11, it's a few months out of warrenty, but not miles. I know it's "which comes first." Is there anything that can be done?
Deysha
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From: N.E. Ohio
Kudos to ford for leading the way with aluminum- but from what I saw on 2015's and their horrid track record on aluminum mustang hoods, I'm afraid the old windstar recalls will be looking cheap in a few years...and if/when F150 paint starts failing like mustang hood paint, Ford will be in for their biggest battle ever... if F150 confidence goes the way of mustang hood confidence, they will be in deep deep trouble.
Last edited by ford4v429; Jun 16, 2015 at 08:51 PM.
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From: N.E. Ohio
something I thought was interesting- note on F150, the aluminum fender uses a double washer- I'd read something about special fasteners to prevent galvanic corrosion under steel bolts... but look at a 2015 mustang aluminum fender bolt- same old single washers- maybe nothing, but the F150 has a 5 yr paint adhesion warranty, mustang still only three.
hmm...
this was the only mustang aluminum fender paint bubble I saw at the auto show- not by a bolt, but looked like it started at the square punchout...bubble was small- maybe 1/4" but paint was definitely lifted/loose...didnt feel like the crunchy corrosion typical, so maybe it was just painted over oil or something- tons of pics of dirt under paint on all ford models displayed at the show, except a F350 that looked as good as any other brand out there... but the other Ford products had paint work that wouldnt fly in a backyard paintjob...really was depressing to see- its not rocket science to smooth seam sealer and wipe down before paint- a 5 yr old could do it... with all the cool gadgets/tech on all the new fords, its just silly they are still dropping the ball on the most visible billboards carrying their emblem. do they really think all the mustangs/explorers/expeditions going down the road with 'hood herpes' arent costing them sales- its really insane how they are continuing to ignore such a SIMPLE prep problem.
hmm...
this was the only mustang aluminum fender paint bubble I saw at the auto show- not by a bolt, but looked like it started at the square punchout...bubble was small- maybe 1/4" but paint was definitely lifted/loose...didnt feel like the crunchy corrosion typical, so maybe it was just painted over oil or something- tons of pics of dirt under paint on all ford models displayed at the show, except a F350 that looked as good as any other brand out there... but the other Ford products had paint work that wouldnt fly in a backyard paintjob...really was depressing to see- its not rocket science to smooth seam sealer and wipe down before paint- a 5 yr old could do it... with all the cool gadgets/tech on all the new fords, its just silly they are still dropping the ball on the most visible billboards carrying their emblem. do they really think all the mustangs/explorers/expeditions going down the road with 'hood herpes' arent costing them sales- its really insane how they are continuing to ignore such a SIMPLE prep problem.
Last edited by ford4v429; Jun 16, 2015 at 09:04 PM.
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From: Insane
It's simple if you don't use a whole body dipping solution type ecoat. That's where the whole thing fails. Since the steel AND the aluminum are dipped into the tank... there's no hope.
At least, that's all I can really figure out on that part.
If they're using *steel* bolts on an aluminum part?
Galvanic corrosion is what'll happen. Either *ALL FREAKING ALUMINUM* or nothing... or no paint, which might be ok...
At least, that's all I can really figure out on that part.
If they're using *steel* bolts on an aluminum part?
Galvanic corrosion is what'll happen. Either *ALL FREAKING ALUMINUM* or nothing... or no paint, which might be ok...
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I just noticed my 2014 starting with the corrosion earlier this week. I went to the dealer today and a the people from the collision shop agreed that it was a problem (duh) and took pictures and documented it and are sending it off to Ford for approval to repaint. The woman I dealt with was confident that the issue could be take care of right away, and even one of the guys that was there commented how his son's 2013 Mustang had the same issue. So for now I wait to hear back from them.
For those that had this issue addressed, was the whole hood repainted or just the affected areas repainted? I am nervous they are only going to redo the section that is currently affected and will be noticeable eyesore because of it.
For those that had this issue addressed, was the whole hood repainted or just the affected areas repainted? I am nervous they are only going to redo the section that is currently affected and will be noticeable eyesore because of it.
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bubbling hood paint... UGH!!
That would be the repair that has the best chance of long term success so that's what I'm hoping for. I have a feeling that since the spots are small for now that won't be the case. So I guess I will just wait to hear from Ford.
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bubbling hood paint... UGH!!
Can a "bad" hood be stripped, prepped properly, refinished and have the same chance of a permanent fix?
Or is there something about "bad" hoods that cannot be made whole before paint? Maybe something related to the seam?
No damage on mine so far, just preparing.
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From: Alberta
I think I've asked this before but, are we thinking that a replacement hood, fully prepped for paint with special considerations for aluminum, has the best chance of a permanent fix?
Can a "bad" hood be stripped, prepped properly, refinished and have the same chance of a permanent fix?
Or is there something about "bad" hoods that cannot be made whole before paint? Maybe something related to the seam?
No damage on mine so far, just preparing.
Can a "bad" hood be stripped, prepped properly, refinished and have the same chance of a permanent fix?
Or is there something about "bad" hoods that cannot be made whole before paint? Maybe something related to the seam?
No damage on mine so far, just preparing.
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bubbling hood paint... UGH!!
What that means to me is if the new finishing / refinishing process is "correct" for aluminum, it should be permanent.
Now whether Ford will pay for a "correct" process under warranty isn't what I'm asking.
Suppose I'm willing to pay a competent independent body shop, knowledgeable in all matters aluminum, to refinish my hood and "do it right," whatever that means.
Can they undo the contamination?
If not, could they do so on a new hood?
Do they have to undo and redo the seam?
bottom line, how do I get/make a factory aluminum hood that I don't have to worry about, and how much do I have to spend?
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From: Alberta
A shop will not be able to 'do it right', from what I have read. The issue is with the way the hood itself made made and the contamination of lead in the seam of the hood. Since the issue is inside the seam, it cannot be corrected.
That is how I understand it.
From: https://www.autobody-review.com/blog...to-do-about-it
That is how I understand it.
From: https://www.autobody-review.com/blog...to-do-about-it
Ford’s Scientific Research Laboratory has performed a number of tests on vehicle body parts returned for corrosion related concerns. Testing has revealed that the aluminum corrosion was caused by iron particles working their way into the aluminum body part, prior to it being painted. SERVICE TIPS AND PROCEDURE
When repairing a vehicle for corrosion or collision damage, it is essential that extreme care be taken to cover and protect all aluminum parts to prevent cross metal contamination. Areas in a shop where metal work is performed should be sectioned off, using at the very least curtain walls, to prevent metal dust migration. Cross contamination can also occur through the use of metal working tools (hammers, dolly’s, picks, grinding wheels, etc.). Tools used for aluminum repairs should be kept separate, and not used to repair other metals. Wire brushes used on aluminum should be made of stainless steel.
NOTE:THIS PROCEDURE SHOULD ONLY BE USED ON NON-PERFORATED METAL. REVIEW WARRANTY AND POLICY MANUAL FOR VEHICLE WITH PERFORATED METAL
Corrosion should be removed by blasting. Use an aggressive blasting material, such as acrylic (salt grain size).
So as you can see, Ford claims that there is a paint issue, and that it does in fact result from cross contamination of steel and the aluminum panel, yet it will not cover the repair once your car is out of the 3 year 36,000 mile warranty which all of these vehicles are by now.
When repairing a vehicle for corrosion or collision damage, it is essential that extreme care be taken to cover and protect all aluminum parts to prevent cross metal contamination. Areas in a shop where metal work is performed should be sectioned off, using at the very least curtain walls, to prevent metal dust migration. Cross contamination can also occur through the use of metal working tools (hammers, dolly’s, picks, grinding wheels, etc.). Tools used for aluminum repairs should be kept separate, and not used to repair other metals. Wire brushes used on aluminum should be made of stainless steel.
NOTE:THIS PROCEDURE SHOULD ONLY BE USED ON NON-PERFORATED METAL. REVIEW WARRANTY AND POLICY MANUAL FOR VEHICLE WITH PERFORATED METAL
Corrosion should be removed by blasting. Use an aggressive blasting material, such as acrylic (salt grain size).
So as you can see, Ford claims that there is a paint issue, and that it does in fact result from cross contamination of steel and the aluminum panel, yet it will not cover the repair once your car is out of the 3 year 36,000 mile warranty which all of these vehicles are by now.
Last edited by jim010; Jun 18, 2015 at 08:53 PM.
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bubbling hood paint... UGH!!
Not to beat a dead horse, but you can see why I'm desperate, I don't like any aftermarket hoods, and I don't want to replace my hood every 3 years.
Could the shop possibly separate the seam, blast everything contamination free, then reseam, seal, prep and paint? Or can one buy the upper and lower hood pieces separately so they've never been treated?
I mean, anyone who wants to keep their car and have a factory or factory style hood, what's the plan, expensive or not?
Could the shop possibly separate the seam, blast everything contamination free, then reseam, seal, prep and paint? Or can one buy the upper and lower hood pieces separately so they've never been treated?
I mean, anyone who wants to keep their car and have a factory or factory style hood, what's the plan, expensive or not?
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My spots were small and not too close to the edge of the hood, so the repaint was fine with me.
