info on oil change DIYs and oil filter choices for 2011+ 5.0s
#83
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Join Date: October 25, 2010
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FMC OEM and Motorcraft are one in the same. Here is the OEM Motorcraft filter we recommend for your vehicle.
Deysha
Not quite true. If they deem that the oil or filter caused the damage they will void the warranty.
I.e. you put a 10w-50 oil in a 5w-20 engine and your cams freeze up in the heads due to lack of oil. they will void the warranty because your oil was too thick for the pump to get it to the cams.
I.e. you put a 10w-50 oil in a 5w-20 engine and your cams freeze up in the heads due to lack of oil. they will void the warranty because your oil was too thick for the pump to get it to the cams.
any other weight of oil other than the oil specified, ford can deny warranty. you are putting something in the car that ford doesn't approve of. as far as the oil pump more power too you. but ford will just use that as another reason to void the warranty because its not a ford part..
Aftermarket parts will not automatically void any of your warranties, RadioFr33Europe. However, if they cause a concern, that specific repair will not be covered. You can refer to your Warranty Guide on page 13 for further info.
Deysha
#84
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Well Since you feel that I'm so off on my statement please enlighten me to the reason that 5 w 20 here in the united states is recommended by Ford. Yet the very same ford automobiles with the very same automobile engines sold in Europe use a 5w 30 weight oil. Ford does not recommend 5w 20 oil for their automobiles sold in Europe which is the same automobiles that sells in the United States. Now if 5 w 20 oil was so much better then why isn't Ford using it in the cars in Europe. Maybe its just me but im lost. Ford x in US needs to use 5W 20 oil. Same Ford X in Europe needs 5W 30 oil.
Don't hurt yourself and let me answer that for you. That's because here in the United States there is a thing called cafe requirements. The 5 w 20 oil is claimed for optimal fuel efficiency and wear to comply with cafe. All nonsense. By all means use 5W20 oil if you feel better but me, im sticking with 5W30 for better engine protection.
Don't hurt yourself and let me answer that for you. That's because here in the United States there is a thing called cafe requirements. The 5 w 20 oil is claimed for optimal fuel efficiency and wear to comply with cafe. All nonsense. By all means use 5W20 oil if you feel better but me, im sticking with 5W30 for better engine protection.
I truly have a hard time seeing why Ford would recommend a motor oil that shortens the life of an engine. In a time when cars are expected to perform without problems for 100K and engines last to 150K+, why would they do something so shortsighted if it gets you an extra 1 MPG but kills the long-term life of the engine? They're smarter than that, IMO.
#85
Originally Posted by kylerohde
I hate getting into these stupid oil debates that happen so often here...but this one's slightly different with this Europe thing interjected. Based on what I read in this Wikipedia article (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil), Europe has completely different oil standards than the US and 5W-20 doesn't even seem to be available in the UK at least, based on Castrol's site (http://castroledge.com/oil-range/). So, I would assume Ford recommends 5W-30 in Europe because it's the lightest weight option available? If 5W-20 was available, they'd probably recommend that because it would improve the fuel mileage, which is even more important there than here since gas is so much more expensive.
I truly have a hard time seeing why Ford would recommend a motor oil that shortens the life of an engine. In a time when cars are expected to perform without problems for 100K and engines last to 150K+, why would they do something so shortsighted if it gets you an extra 1 MPG but kills the long-term life of the engine? They're smarter than that, IMO.
#86
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An aluminum engine - with the oil spec'd by the engineers that built the engine - will heat and cool within range according to spec.
Just like the Boss with its higher rpm, has a different spec because of the higher performance and longer duration at high rpm on the track.
What's so hard about following directions anyway???
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#88
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Originally Posted by texastboneking
Is there proof of this change? Haven't heard of it.
Bottles marked "energy conserving" are usually high in moly due to it's friction modification abilities however you can't find them thicker than a 0w-30/5w-30.
Red line,AMSOIL,royal purple and the gold capped mobil 1 bottles are all group 4 basestocks. MOST others are a blended group 3.
Honestly,pick one and stick with it so the additive packages can do their jobs.
I have found that the rotella blue bottle 5w-40 T-6 is fairly cheap and it's an HDEO. When I pulled my 4.6 apart this summer bearings and cams looked great. No scoring or wear,that was immediately visible,and it's very cost effective.
Ultimately this oil topic has been beaten to death. Once you hit a certain price point they are all really good.
Now get out and drive the car,don't sweat the small stuff
#89
If you've got something better than that, show me. Because I spent an appropriate amount of time researching where this idea came from and all that came up were endless debates between people who have no way of knowing guessing back and forth how much group IV base stock various mobil 1 grades have or don't have vs how much group III base stock.
The fact is nobody but mobil knows for both types of mobil 1:
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...Base_Oils.aspx
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/..._Question.aspx
By the way, there is just as much rumor out there that it's EP that has the base III stock while plain M1 has the group IV.
From what I read on Bobistheoilguy it's a tired old subject with no conclusions either way. Their community has shown no difference in oil analysis between regular M1 and M1 EP.
Full synthetic and 100% synthetic are different things.
Castrol won a lawsuit a few years ago that allowed them to call their oils with up to a certain percent of group 3 base stock full synthetic. Mobile one did the same to save some money.
Only oils from group 4 and 5 base stocks are actually 100% full synthetic.
Castrol won a lawsuit a few years ago that allowed them to call their oils with up to a certain percent of group 3 base stock full synthetic. Mobile one did the same to save some money.
Only oils from group 4 and 5 base stocks are actually 100% full synthetic.
Mobil filed a complaint the National Advertising Division of the Better Business Bureau against Castrol for false advertising. Castrol convinced the BBB that group III could be so labeled. This is from the bob is the oil guy website where this lawsuit myth appears to be a repeated annoyance.
Post describing the base stocks here:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=1104984
Group I is solvent extracted from crude oil. It's a mixed bag of hydrocarbons and in North America has fallen out of favor due to not being of very high quality compared to readily available base stocks that are improvements on it.
Group II is hydrocracked and dewaxed oil to produce more of the desired properties and it reduces unsaturated hydrocarbons, which reduces the tendency of the oil to oxidize and thicken out of grade. Most conventional oils in North America are made up of this.
Group II+ is an oil that would typically have very few unsaturated hydrocarbons and lower wax content. It may not be as fully processed as group III, but it is ahead of Group II for quality. Certain higher quality conventional oils use a higher proportion of this.
Group III is a heavily hydrocracked mineral oil. Most synthetic oils on the market are made up of this. The oil molecules are broken down through a variety of processes until they are much more like what has good lubricating properties, and removes or breaks down molecules with negative performance effects such as waxes. Pennzoil Platinum is the highest regarded group III oil on this site.
Group III+ is the extreme end of this, where the final product is basically nothing like any of the components that went into it, but it is still derived by heavily processing crude oil. An example of this would be Shell XHVI base oils. As well, oils are being developed on gas-to-liquids basestocks which would also produce extremely high quality group III bases, fundamentally synthesized but not falling into the definitions of group IV or V.
Group IV is PAO, which most consider along with group V to be a "true" synthetic. It is made up of base oils made from other hydrocarbons (often derived from natural gas) and is made specifically to be a lubricant, and does not have origin as crude oil. Mobil 1 and Amsoil are the best examples of these type of oils. They offer performance throughout extremes, resist oxidation, all kinds of fun stuff.
Group V is a blanket term for anything else, usually ester based oil. Red Line Oil is a common example of this.
On another note, this is probably the source of the Katrina rumor:
http://www.imakenews.com/lng/e_article001239508.cfm
All the products in the list at least of that date obviously had PAO (group IV) content.
Last edited by 97GT12; 12/9/11 at 07:43 PM.
#92
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Personally, Castrol and Mobil go through so much trouble to hide what base stocks they use, that I'd rather not give them my business.
One of our TMS members who is local to me is an Amsoil dealer, and by becoming a preferrred customer, the cost for oil is only slightly higher.
I'm ordering 2 gallons of Amsoil 5w20, an Amsoil filter, and Amsoil trans fluid to get the dual clutch junk out of my car. Doing it all when my MGW shifter arrives next week.
One of our TMS members who is local to me is an Amsoil dealer, and by becoming a preferrred customer, the cost for oil is only slightly higher.
I'm ordering 2 gallons of Amsoil 5w20, an Amsoil filter, and Amsoil trans fluid to get the dual clutch junk out of my car. Doing it all when my MGW shifter arrives next week.
#93
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Personally, Castrol and Mobil go through so much trouble to hide what base stocks they use, that I'd rather not give them my business.
One of our TMS members who is local to me is an Amsoil dealer, and by becoming a preferrred customer, the cost for oil is only slightly higher.
I'm ordering 2 gallons of Amsoil 5w20, an Amsoil filter, and Amsoil trans fluid to get the dual clutch junk out of my car. Doing it all when my MGW shifter arrives next week.
One of our TMS members who is local to me is an Amsoil dealer, and by becoming a preferrred customer, the cost for oil is only slightly higher.
I'm ordering 2 gallons of Amsoil 5w20, an Amsoil filter, and Amsoil trans fluid to get the dual clutch junk out of my car. Doing it all when my MGW shifter arrives next week.
#94
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I'd like to go to Amsoil, RP or Redline but the $10+ cost per quart just isn't worth it to me when I can get a five quart container of Castrol Edge w/ Syntec for $21.99. Too many good deals on the more mass synthetics at the parts stores, even if they're not quite as good, IMO.
So it becomes $60 for 8 quarts, which isnt too bad in my opinion. Not to mention that most places have those 5 quarts for 40 bucks, not 20.
#96
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My my my, these damned oil threads fall somewhere between mind numbingly tedious and hilarious. Everyone suddenly becomes a freaking petroleum engineer with a minor in chemistry (usually the degree was earned at the university of bobistheoilguy). ![](http://images.ibsrv.net/ibsrv/res/src:forums.evolutionm.net/get/images/smilies/lol.gif)
And for the love of God, Mobil is an oil, Mobile is a city on the coast of Alabama. You'd think a petroleum engineer would know the difference.
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And for the love of God, Mobil is an oil, Mobile is a city on the coast of Alabama. You'd think a petroleum engineer would know the difference.
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#98
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#100
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Investment purposes???
No car is an investment... ever. Unless you buy an exotic (ala Ferrari, etc) or a collectible classic. No, I didn't buy the car as an investment. My "toy" cars are just that... my "sunny day" only car, my stress relief after a long days/weeks worth of work - car, my kids are screaming in the house I gotta get out of the house - car. It's my garage queen. All my prior cars were like that... I had a twin turbo 93 RX7 that never saw rain since new... I had a G and a Z too... and now my first forray into american muscle. I LOVE it. Heck, just looking at my cars in the garage already gets me all warm and tingly
I'm just a car nut... I love looking at them, driving them, working on them, and especially DETAILING them (I'm OCD, and used to own my own detailing business). So keeping cars neat and clean and polished is a must for me... to each his own.
But yes, the Stang is a GREAT car...I LOVE IT. I only get 12mpg lately, but I don't care haha. It's about to hibernate already though... got first light snow this week.
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But yes, the Stang is a GREAT car...I LOVE IT. I only get 12mpg lately, but I don't care haha. It's about to hibernate already though... got first light snow this week.
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