2013 Mustang Order Guides (including GT500) & Price Lists
4/17/12, 11:30 AM
#2903
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Originally Posted by =HYPERDRIVE=
Man you guys are making me worry about another thing...
I was planning on telling dealer not to wash the car, but I said meh, it cant be as bad as a automatic car wash and its only one time, but im second guessing myself now.
My sales guy told me they wash it by hand, but should I worry, and do those cars come really dirty from the long trip on the convoy?
Im going to wash it, clay it, and wax it ASAP as soon as I get the car, so should I allow them to wash it, and like others said maybe its better to see the car clean first so its easier to inspect for imperfections, if any.
I was planning on telling dealer not to wash the car, but I said meh, it cant be as bad as a automatic car wash and its only one time, but im second guessing myself now.
My sales guy told me they wash it by hand, but should I worry, and do those cars come really dirty from the long trip on the convoy?
Im going to wash it, clay it, and wax it ASAP as soon as I get the car, so should I allow them to wash it, and like others said maybe its better to see the car clean first so its easier to inspect for imperfections, if any.
4/17/12, 12:08 PM
#2904
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Deysha
Sent you a private message. Your attention is appreciated, especially since you do this of your own free will and on your own time. Thank you.
us002840
Sent you a private message. Your attention is appreciated, especially since you do this of your own free will and on your own time. Thank you.
us002840
Last edited by us002840; 4/17/12 at 12:39 PM.
4/17/12, 02:47 PM
#2905
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http://www.chicagotribune.com/classi...,6033231.story
I'm so glad im getting a 13', it's the retro styling that sold me into getting a Mustang, don't like the trendy styling cos trendy things almost never last.
I'm so glad im getting a 13', it's the retro styling that sold me into getting a Mustang, don't like the trendy styling cos trendy things almost never last.
4/17/12, 09:52 PM
#2909
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4/17/12, 10:13 PM
#2910
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Btw you made a fine color choice. I ordered a
similar set-up. The Sterling Gray really looks
good on this car.
4/17/12, 10:47 PM
#2911
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Now we wait
4/17/12, 11:19 PM
#2912
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Originally Posted by Joey7489
Thankyou! I was between deep impact, sterling and white. Figured with deep impact being a new color it would be extremely popular, and my dad just got a white car, so the choice was simple
Now we wait
Last edited by Sky Hye; 4/18/12 at 12:08 AM.
4/18/12, 11:51 AM
#2913
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Had some pms about paint care. I know this is an order thread but I thought I'd share the knowledge here since many don't navigate to the was and shine part of the forum.
Here it goes:
WASHING:
1. Wait for the car to cool down completely
2. Hose down the car (no nozzle on the hose)
3. I have 2 home depot 5 gallon orange buckets
a. One has Water, the other has water/soap (meguiars gold).
b. both buckets have grit guards in them
4. I use viking products wool mitt (meguiars leaves behind lint)
5. Gently soap the car. Never apply pressure. If something is stubborn, make sure it's wet and come back later, the water will eventually loosen it.
6. I try to make this quick so the soap doesn't dry, if you see it drying just go over with some more soap.
7. I shake off the now dirty mitt into the water bucket a few times. If it gets sudsy or dirty just replace the water.
8. Once you finish the whole car, thoroughly wash the mitt. Then hose down the car, again, no nozzle. Let the water pool/sheet on the car. This will help prevent water spots.
9. For towels, I use SAMs club microfiber towels. They are the plushest I have found. I tend to use them only once or twice and then never use them on my car again.
10. For the roof I lay the entire towel down and slowly pull by the corners and let it soak up all the water. I use one towel per hand. Both folded into a square. One for absorbing the water, the other for finishing it off.
11. After one towel is fully saturated, I put it in a bucket and grab a new one.
CLAY BAR
After the car is fully dry, I then clay bar the entire car. Meguiars or mothers kits are fine. Just follow the directions on the box. Buy an extra bottle of quick detailer spray, you don't want to run out mid-pdicess. Make sure you use plenty of lubrication otherwise the clay will stick and you will apply it to your paint. after I am done, I like to wipe my car with a new microfiber towel and then begin polishing or waxing it.
WAXING:
If you are only waxing, you can do this by hand without a problem. I actually prefer waxing by hand. If you are going to be polishing, get a machine. I got a griots garage dual action buffer and it works well.
Products I use are:
Meguiars professional grade polishing compounds, swirl removers and glaze. others use zaino, griots, lexol, etc. it's preference. One thing I cannot empathize enough is To stay clear of the cheap brand products at Walmart or the sort. To me, it's just not worth my paint to save 2-15 dollars on a wax or applicator.
For applicators, I found meguiars even coat applicators to be great.
For wax, first I put on 1-2 coats of meguiars NXT 2.0. It is debatable but some people let each coat dry for 8-12 hours.
Then I put on 2 coats of mothers carnuba wax. This stuff smells amazing! Let it fully dry and you are good to go!
I also have a 24" genuine wool duster I keep in my car for when it picks up dust.
I may have errors, excuse them. I also will try to add more later, it's torture writing so much on my iPhone.
Edit: forgot about clay bar!
Here it goes:
WASHING:
1. Wait for the car to cool down completely
2. Hose down the car (no nozzle on the hose)
3. I have 2 home depot 5 gallon orange buckets
a. One has Water, the other has water/soap (meguiars gold).
b. both buckets have grit guards in them
4. I use viking products wool mitt (meguiars leaves behind lint)
5. Gently soap the car. Never apply pressure. If something is stubborn, make sure it's wet and come back later, the water will eventually loosen it.
6. I try to make this quick so the soap doesn't dry, if you see it drying just go over with some more soap.
7. I shake off the now dirty mitt into the water bucket a few times. If it gets sudsy or dirty just replace the water.
8. Once you finish the whole car, thoroughly wash the mitt. Then hose down the car, again, no nozzle. Let the water pool/sheet on the car. This will help prevent water spots.
9. For towels, I use SAMs club microfiber towels. They are the plushest I have found. I tend to use them only once or twice and then never use them on my car again.
10. For the roof I lay the entire towel down and slowly pull by the corners and let it soak up all the water. I use one towel per hand. Both folded into a square. One for absorbing the water, the other for finishing it off.
11. After one towel is fully saturated, I put it in a bucket and grab a new one.
CLAY BAR
After the car is fully dry, I then clay bar the entire car. Meguiars or mothers kits are fine. Just follow the directions on the box. Buy an extra bottle of quick detailer spray, you don't want to run out mid-pdicess. Make sure you use plenty of lubrication otherwise the clay will stick and you will apply it to your paint. after I am done, I like to wipe my car with a new microfiber towel and then begin polishing or waxing it.
WAXING:
If you are only waxing, you can do this by hand without a problem. I actually prefer waxing by hand. If you are going to be polishing, get a machine. I got a griots garage dual action buffer and it works well.
Products I use are:
Meguiars professional grade polishing compounds, swirl removers and glaze. others use zaino, griots, lexol, etc. it's preference. One thing I cannot empathize enough is To stay clear of the cheap brand products at Walmart or the sort. To me, it's just not worth my paint to save 2-15 dollars on a wax or applicator.
For applicators, I found meguiars even coat applicators to be great.
For wax, first I put on 1-2 coats of meguiars NXT 2.0. It is debatable but some people let each coat dry for 8-12 hours.
Then I put on 2 coats of mothers carnuba wax. This stuff smells amazing! Let it fully dry and you are good to go!
I also have a 24" genuine wool duster I keep in my car for when it picks up dust.
I may have errors, excuse them. I also will try to add more later, it's torture writing so much on my iPhone.
Edit: forgot about clay bar!
Last edited by Sky Hye; 4/18/12 at 01:33 PM.
4/18/12, 12:25 PM
#2914
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Join Date: December 17, 2011
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Had some pms about paint care. I know this is an order thread but I thought I'd share the knowledge here since many don't navigate to the was and shine part of the forum.
Here it goes:
WASHING:
1. Wait for the car to cool down completely
2. Hose down the car (no nozzle on the hose)
3. I have 2 home depot 5 gallon orange buckets
a. One has Water, the other has water/soap (meguiars gold).
b. both buckets have grit guards in them
4. I use viking products wool mitt (meguiars leaves behind lint)
5. Gently soap the car. Never apply pressure. If something is stubborn, make sure it's wet and come back later, the water will eventually loosen it.
6. I try to make this quick so the soap doesn't dry, if you see it drying just go over with some more soap.
7. I shake off the now dirty mitt into the water bucket a few times. If it gets sudsy or dirty just replace the water.
8. Once you finish the whole car, thoroughly wash the mitt. Then hose down the car, again, no nozzle. Let the water pool/sheet on the car. This will help prevent water spots.
9. For towels, I use SAMs club microfiber towels. They are the plushest I have found. I tend to use them only once or twice and then never use them on my car again.
10. For the roof I lay the entire towel down and slowly pull by the corners and let it soak up all the water. I use one towel per hand. Both folded into a square. One for absorbing the water, the other for finishing it off.
11. After one towel is fully saturated, I put it in a bucket and grab a new one.
WAXING:
If only waxing, you can do this by hand without a problem. I actually prefer waxing by hand. If you are going to be polishing, get a machine. I got a griots garage dual action buffer.
Products I use are:
Meguiars professional grade polishing compounds, swirl removers and glaze.
For applicators, I found meguiars even coat applicators to be great.
For wax, first I put on 1-2 coats of meguiars NXT 2.0. It is debatable but some people let each coat dry for 8-12 hours.
Then I put on 2 coats of mothers carnuba wax. This stuff smells amazing! Let it fully dry and you are good to go!
I also have a 24" genuine wool duster I keep in my car for when it picks up dust.
I may have errors, excuse them. I also will try to add more later, it's torture writing so much on my iPhone.
Here it goes:
WASHING:
1. Wait for the car to cool down completely
2. Hose down the car (no nozzle on the hose)
3. I have 2 home depot 5 gallon orange buckets
a. One has Water, the other has water/soap (meguiars gold).
b. both buckets have grit guards in them
4. I use viking products wool mitt (meguiars leaves behind lint)
5. Gently soap the car. Never apply pressure. If something is stubborn, make sure it's wet and come back later, the water will eventually loosen it.
6. I try to make this quick so the soap doesn't dry, if you see it drying just go over with some more soap.
7. I shake off the now dirty mitt into the water bucket a few times. If it gets sudsy or dirty just replace the water.
8. Once you finish the whole car, thoroughly wash the mitt. Then hose down the car, again, no nozzle. Let the water pool/sheet on the car. This will help prevent water spots.
9. For towels, I use SAMs club microfiber towels. They are the plushest I have found. I tend to use them only once or twice and then never use them on my car again.
10. For the roof I lay the entire towel down and slowly pull by the corners and let it soak up all the water. I use one towel per hand. Both folded into a square. One for absorbing the water, the other for finishing it off.
11. After one towel is fully saturated, I put it in a bucket and grab a new one.
WAXING:
If only waxing, you can do this by hand without a problem. I actually prefer waxing by hand. If you are going to be polishing, get a machine. I got a griots garage dual action buffer.
Products I use are:
Meguiars professional grade polishing compounds, swirl removers and glaze.
For applicators, I found meguiars even coat applicators to be great.
For wax, first I put on 1-2 coats of meguiars NXT 2.0. It is debatable but some people let each coat dry for 8-12 hours.
Then I put on 2 coats of mothers carnuba wax. This stuff smells amazing! Let it fully dry and you are good to go!
I also have a 24" genuine wool duster I keep in my car for when it picks up dust.
I may have errors, excuse them. I also will try to add more later, it's torture writing so much on my iPhone.
The way some of my buddies wash their cars make me cringe
Side note: make sure to use a dedicated towel/brush for your wheels.
and all that on an IPhone :O
Last edited by Kobrag; 4/18/12 at 12:27 PM.
4/18/12, 12:59 PM
#2915
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Originally Posted by Jason29
Sky Hye,
No offense taken. I am quite **** about my cars also. In fact, I once put on a coat of paint sealant in the dealer's parking lot before taking the car home. Unfortunately, I pulled my back out about a week ago and don't have the back strength right now to really detail a car.
Last year when I picked up my 2012, I told the dealer to have their best detail person clean it and use clean towels and rags. I watched him clean it. The car was fine when it left and the gentleman even pointed out a minor scratch. I gave the same instructions to them yesterday. In addition, I told them that if the car has any damage, I plan to just keep my 2012. My fear with taking the car home dirty would be that if any damage lies underneath the dirt, I would be stuck with the car since it had gone "over the curb." Unfortunately, most new cars seem to have some defects, so I want to be sure to be able to see what this car may have before I buy it. With that said, I don't blame you on your choice to have the dealer not touch the car. In a perfect world, I'd clean the car at the dealer if they let me.
No offense taken. I am quite **** about my cars also. In fact, I once put on a coat of paint sealant in the dealer's parking lot before taking the car home. Unfortunately, I pulled my back out about a week ago and don't have the back strength right now to really detail a car.
Last year when I picked up my 2012, I told the dealer to have their best detail person clean it and use clean towels and rags. I watched him clean it. The car was fine when it left and the gentleman even pointed out a minor scratch. I gave the same instructions to them yesterday. In addition, I told them that if the car has any damage, I plan to just keep my 2012. My fear with taking the car home dirty would be that if any damage lies underneath the dirt, I would be stuck with the car since it had gone "over the curb." Unfortunately, most new cars seem to have some defects, so I want to be sure to be able to see what this car may have before I buy it. With that said, I don't blame you on your choice to have the dealer not touch the car. In a perfect world, I'd clean the car at the dealer if they let me.
4/18/12, 03:29 PM
#2916
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Nothing wrong with it at all. Its an awesome color .. Good write up on detailing and washing. I have been detailing cars for many years now and its good to know someone else out there cares about proper washing procedures.
Ever tried Optimum Polish? Really good stuff. Gets the job done!
.. Good write up on detailing and washing. I have been detailing cars for many years now and its good to know someone else out there cares about proper washing procedures. Ever tried Optimum Polish? Really good stuff. Gets the job done!
4/18/12, 03:40 PM
#2917
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Originally Posted by Joey7489
Nothing wrong with it at all. Its an awesome color
.. Good write up on detailing and washing. I have been detailing cars for many years now and its good to know someone else out there cares about proper washing procedures.Ever tried Optimum Polish? Really good stuff. Gets the job done!
4/18/12, 04:49 PM
#2918
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Here are some very helpful videos of proper cleaning and detailing. I mostly use Adam's products except for the machine polishing and I LOVE their stuff!
http://www.adamspolishes.com/t-videos.aspx
http://www.adamspolishes.com/t-videos.aspx
4/18/12, 08:40 PM
#2919
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BTW where r u ordering your Borla S-Type from? I am considering doing full exhaust on the car, and I am contemplating whether to just get headers, catted X and S type axle backs and have a shop weld in 3 inch stainless steel pipe all the way back; or to just do headers/catback. The Borla catbacks look like they come equipped with an X in the pictures... Confusedddd??
4/18/12, 10:00 PM
#2920
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You can get either or. I have the polish. When I use it with a white LC pad I usually don't even need to compound, unless the car is reallllyyyy bad. After the polish I hit the car with a grey pad with Polish again, then blue with meguiars 205 finishing polish. Then wax.
BTW where r u ordering your Borla S-Type from? I am considering doing full exhaust on the car, and I am contemplating whether to just get headers, catted X and S type axle backs and have a shop weld in 3 inch stainless steel pipe all the way back; or to just do headers/catback. The Borla catbacks look like they come equipped with an X in the pictures... Confusedddd??
BTW where r u ordering your Borla S-Type from? I am considering doing full exhaust on the car, and I am contemplating whether to just get headers, catted X and S type axle backs and have a shop weld in 3 inch stainless steel pipe all the way back; or to just do headers/catback. The Borla catbacks look like they come equipped with an X in the pictures... Confusedddd??
The Borla S type catback includes the X pipe.
I'm going with the S type catback myself. It
was a toss up between the Borla and Stainless
Works for me.