Same here.

 

+2....

 

It is quite a skill... But I can feel myself running faster without that extra weight

 

http://picasaweb.google.com/PeterHat...tsLinkInstall#

If any of you wanted to see pictures of the Watts Link install, check out the pictures. The assistant is muh girlfriend. I was fairly astonished that she not only wanted to help, but also understand what things do. I knew I picked a good one.

 

I see she learned the benefit of wearing safety glasses while face up under a car.


She also seems to be very well adjusted for having seen Arin naked in the backseat of your car.

 

Great job on the install. Really want to pick up a Watts link now! Think a S197 axle girdle will work for more clearance? It looked pretty close to the crank/pivot in those shots.

 

wearing glasses while under a car is ALWAYS a good idea!

looks good pete!

 

SHE SAW NOTHING. AND ARIN SAW NOTHING.

how many times do we have to go over this

anyhow, pics be good other than that stupid blue sway bar

also arin is vastly surprised at her wanting to help

 

The "stupid blue sway bar" is for sale, and Peter knows how much better things sell when they "look good."

 

She did not learn. Peter learned, and Peter taught before she had the experience necessary to know that... Especially right after drilling the frame rail.

I'm amazed that she's willing to be anywhere near my car after that.. Poor girl.
From what I've heard the S197 girdle does not work. I have no idea why though...
Just because there was nothing to see does not mean that you didn't try.

 

 

I'll have to do that next time...

 

It's cool when the gf helps to work with the car. Mine had a blast when we fixed her dads when the engine inhaled water through the intake during a flash flood. She screamed when she saw the water spraying from the spark plug holes!

 

I was thinking today... And I decided to make a dream list of what I wanted for my suspension.

H&R Super Sport Springs

http://www.americanmuscle.com/h-r-sp...ngs-83-95.html

250

Lower Control Arms

http://www.americanmuscle.com/maximu...rms-79-98.html

250

Steeda Bumpsteer Kit

http://www.americanmuscle.com/stbukit94b.html

160

Tokico D-Spec

http://www.americanmuscle.com/tokico...trut-9404.html


540

Full Length MM Subframe Connectors

http://www.americanmuscle.com/maximu...connector.html

170

MM Torque Arm

http://www.lpiracing.com/pc/Maximum-...178p113794.htm

430

If only I had 1800 bucks, this would be what I'd buy.

 

Replace D-specs w/double adjustable Konis modified for adjustable coilover setup or maybe double adjustable Vari-shocks w/coilover springs and you could spend twice as much!

 

I'm still confused about the why for coilovers. If you can get springs that give you the same wheel rate, then I don't understand how it would be any different at all than the standard position springs, other than the price of the coilover kit and springs and so on.

I'd rather get progressive rate springs anyhow, and those H&R Super Sports just look so good...

 

theres the option for a fair bit of weight reduction with coilovers with all the tubular goodies, not to mention adjustable ride height and an easier ride with that stiffer wheel rate. plus its a little more customizeable. when you order coilvers you can order absolutely any spring rate when otherwise you're limited to what manufactures have decided they will offer

i'll explain more when i do spend those thousands more lol

 

Actually, switching to coil overs makes the car handle smoother and grip harder, with less spring rate due to their outer position (reduced leverage on the A arm). You'll basically convert from modified struts to real Mc Pherson struts, similar to what s197's and thousands of cars use.

 

Wrong. The ride should be/is identical if you have the same wheel rate. Just because it takes less to compress the spring does not change the feel of the car, because the force implemented at the wheel is the same. And it is what happens at the wheel that you feel. Not what happens to the spring itself.

If that were really true, then you wouldn't have to buy the same Struts/Shocks for coilovers as you do for standard high force springs. Stockers would even be overkill since most coilover springs only go up to about 350 or so, while stock springs are 425.

If you use a damper that is meant for a spring much stiffer than what you are running you will run into problems, just like the problems you run into with springs that are too stiff for your dampers. The dampers begin to try to do the job of the spring and push the car back up after bumps, rather than the springs doing that, which causes a lot of premature wear on the damper itself.

Realistically, you are still limited to whatever spring rates Hypercoil, or whoever you buy your springs from are manufacturing, so I'm not really sure about that one either. Also, weight jackers do a lot of the same deal,and even though I can't get it to within a pound at each corner, I don't think that is really something you can feel in a street car anyway. Add that to the fact that if you buy the circle track spring perches instead of the standard pigtail ones, there is an even larger variety of springs for the rear than coilovers allow.

Tubular stuff like control arms I think are a lot more for the hardcore track guys, not the people who plan to use the car every single day.

 

I dunno, then? I guess I got "sold". If I ever get around to taking them out of the boxes and putting them on my car, I'll offer my 2 cents... I ordered a set with a "softer" spring rate and "matched" front and rear rates for more emphasis on ride quality. We shall see...
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/co...q_coilover.php