probably, I need to get one anyway.

Nathan, I can't get a solid footing on washing the motor, I go back and forth on it. Spose I'm petrified about shorting out the coilpacks, they're apparently not cheap. I may get it done professionally next year at Mustang Week, there's a guy that does alot of Stangs, and is really good at it. I may spot treat it until then.

 

I need to do mine again. It's really not that bad.

 

i know it's best if the engine is warm, but should I run the motor while spraying the "suds" off with water?

 

I usually 'wipe' the engine with wet rags and maybe some handheld spray degreaser like 409 or something. As the towel gets dirty I'll rinse it out and continue to wipe it down while the engine is off.

 

I wouldn't. I usually let it dry out good before starting it again.

 

+1. I do the same. Just be sure to have something to cover the alternator, air box opening/filter and the ignition/coil packs before spraying anything over the engine. If you need to clean those, use the method Gary suggested, so no water causes any damage to the electrical stuff. Then, let the engine dry before firing it up. If it runs erratically, you need to start pulling connectors and drying them up.

 

I did it right when I first got mine. I made sure the engine was warm before spraying with water, then I sprayed simple green, and then scrubbed. After that, I rinsed and turned on the car to make sure everything was good; she started up with no issues. Cover the alternator since it's so exposed though.

There's a thread about this somewhere. I'll link it when I run across it. No issues and I've done this four times; 3 times with the 3V and once with the 2V.

David, don't be a sissy and work on your car already.

 

I'm going to use Meg's All Purpose Cleaner when it gets here.

I'll probably just wrap the alternator and coilpacks in some plastic wrap while it's getting wet. I need to get a new brush for it too maybe. Also need to find one that can get in my wheel wells, they're nasty as hell. **** I gotta get some jackstands and a jack!

 

new serpentine belt went on today, hopefully that'll nix my squealing issue that's been driving me nuts.

I'll be getting some new tires soon, think I'm going with some Continental ExtremeContact DW's. Not my favorite tread pattern, but I just couldnt buy the KDW2's after seeing all the noise complaints, not for a DD.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....num=445WR7ECDW

 

What about Firestone Firehawk GT's? My dad is running those, and they seem to do pretty good. I don't know how they compare to the Conti's, I just have one friend who talks nothing but crap about Conti's, they came stock on his VW and lasted barely any time and didn't have much grip

 

What do you expect from a bunch of import drivers? They can't hear their v-tech kick in over their tires.

 

Hey Dave, If I am following this thread correctly then the 4.6L 2V engine has a separate thermostat gasket from any other gaskets.

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...rmostat-Gasket


See...? did I miss something?

 

Maybe I misunderstood, but I thought he meant it was leaking between the intake and the head, not between the thermostat housing and the intake.

 

I wasn't sure from reading his first posts.

 

It's leaking from underside the thermostat bit that's connected to the intake manifold. As far as I could tell from the repair manual, it's one piece. However, a bottle of stopleak seems to have done the trick. I'll definitely keep an eye on it as something I'll eventually change anyway.

I'm still kinda a noob on the 2v, but it just seems like there's not much bolt on power available. So after the stereo setup (and MGW shifter) that's what I'm going to concentrate on. I'm so used to the power now it feels like it's going slow. So I'll probably get a tuner, intake, and TB, then the intake manifold if it ever starts giving me issues again

 

if you're looking to make the most out of just bolt ons, understand that each individual one isnt very significant on the 2v.

i'm probably going on like a broken record on this but the plenum is the biggest hindrance in terms of airflow. I would deal with that before moving on to the other bolt ons. a bigger TB isnt going to be necessary for quite a while if ever. they make some trick plenum/TB combos though that solve both issues at once. After that I would move on to the CAI. I can't speak for most brands of 2v GT stuff but the JLT on my car made a noticable difference by itself. I really don't know which brand gives you the most though. The only one ive heard to stay away from is the bbk. i just remember reading a while back that it didn't get the most power gains.

after the plenum/CAI I'd look into exhaust stuff. once again, I'm not sure what does the best in terms of gains, but its probably where I'd go next. You can probably get longtubes and an offroad midpipe, which I'm rather jealous of. LTs are a big player in these motors.

after that I'd say cams or a head/cam combo. people are making huge power with the new trickflow heads for our motors. at this point in time, my long terem plans are pretty much just these and..

a tune. I would really save this for last. All the other parts will work together very well to give you soem more uumph, but with a good tune everything is optimized for the best #s you can get. I've heard nothing but good things from places like Bamachips. I talked to Doug there years ago about what to do with my car and even though i still never got a tune because im a broke ***, he still took the time to email me and help me figure out whats best for my car. sidenote: i think he deals JLTs as well. before i bought mine, if i'd had the cash, i was planning to buy them together from him. all you need to do at any point though is email him and tell him what mods you've done/are about to do and he'll work up a tune for you

if you're going to be beefing up your sound system i'd avoid underdrive pulleys. it'd put a big strain on your system if you're underdriving your alternator for more power when you have a powerful sound system as well.

thats all i can think of now from a power standpoint, outside of FI. one other thing to think about is that if all you want is faster, look into lower control arms. a good set of LCAs can really help plant the car and often knocks a few seconds of your 1/4. that planted feel will definitely be something you notice all the time. I drove petes car today for the first time and despite the fact that I definitely have more power than his car, the car corners so flat and feels well sorted out all the time.

and dont forget to beef up them brakes :P with all this power you'll need something to rein those ponies in

sorry for being so longwinded, i just wanted to toss otu as much info as i could think of for ya

 

Don't forget gears.

And Bamatunes has merged with AM...

 

Just save up for a blower. Plain and simple.

The 2V's do not breath well and staying NA isn't worth the effort, especially when you can piece together a Vortech for around $2,000. If you're looking for SOTP power, I suggest getting gears.

I still believe intakes are a waste of money for these 2V's. I honestly felt zero difference between the JLT and the stock intake. Going back to stock actually ran better - but I credit that to cleaning the MAF

 

thanks for the responses, any and all info is welcome. The cams are definitely going to happen, though not until I buy my sporty DD and get the Mustang turned into a toy. Then I'm going to put some rather large cams in there, same thing with gears. For being my current DD, it's perfect gear wise. I just want 15-30 extra hp., and I need to apparently change the fuel filter.

I might have forgot to post, it's got an O/R H or X. Didnt get a great look at it, just know it's O/R


replaced the belt yesterday, and now it's prefectly quiet again! Next up is tires, then stereo and a shifter.

 

can you get 3V or 4V heads for these motors?

Eventually Ill swap in a terminator/5.0 motor, but that's a long ways down the line.