So I went out there and tried again and something is definitely up with the fuel reset thing. I hear a brief and faint click instead of the pump going. The button was down initially. I tried disconnecting it and reconecting it. I was also able to make the button pop back up but it didn't seem to make any difference. Anyone got any ideas? I was counting on the car runnin at this point.

 

Blown fuse maybe? You'll need to get some V readings to diagnose this one out. Start w the inertia switch, bec. it may have gone bad.

 

so pete was just here and we did some sciencing.

now, when you turn my key to the on position without starting the car, it makes this stupid click and then nothing

If you do the same on petes car, naturally, you hear the fuel pump going and all is well

now, if you disconnect the reset switch, my car makes the same stupid click, whereas on petes car it made no noise at all. This leads me to beleive that its probably not the switch thats the issue. but i am still baffled at what it could be or how this happened. the car needed to use its own power in addition to the tow truck to get out of the ditch, i was able to start it no problem multiple times.

if anyone has any more insight that would be freaking awesome.

Eduardo, i didnt have anything to test the volts, but im about to head back to berkeley, so its gonna be a little while before i can work on this car again

also, pictures of the bumper lol. it aint perdy, but its on there.

 

Check your grounds? Could something have come loose?

 

Wait, it clicks with it disconnected, but Pete's does not?

That's... odd. There shouldn't be any clickage whatsoever. That there's any clickage is interesing. Where is the clicking? This may be important.

And while the relay in the trunk (I assume it's the same as the Fox bodies?) is one piece, it's not the only one... the ignition switch, as well as a relay and/or fuse in the fusebox(es) could be part of the issue, right?

I haven't seen the wiring diagram, but I'd be gettin' the fuses and/or relays out of the car that had anything to do with the fuel pump, and see if the clicking goes away. I think that should be first.

---

However, if I'm remembering right, upon turning the key to 'on', the fuel pump runs for a bit to pressure up the fuel rails, THEN STOPS, as there's no point to pumpin' anything further, yeah?

I think this is the case, there's a fuel pressure switch that's gone wonky, and it's keeping the fuel pump off. That's possibly the clicking you hear?

Unless I don't know how the fuel system works... and that's very likely.

Just throwin' stuff about... maybe something sticks.

 

It's odd that the clicking doesn't go away on yours w/o the inertia switch. But whatever, the symptoms tell me a little something. The clicking indicates that the fp relay is getting current, BUT it's not either reachinf the fp or that the pump itself took a dump. One more thing, on mine there's a test wire that goes directly to the fuel pump if you connect it to a 12v source. The pump should activate and the motor should run. Maybe on yours there's one too?

 

IT LIIIIIIIVVVEEESSSS

stopped by the shop to see the II, which is so **** close, but not there yet and we started talking about this car to the mechanic. he said "try using the other key" because of I guess the car forgets its keys sometimes.

in any case, after giving it a jump, she started on the second try. got an appt tomorrow mornin to get the alignment done and then I'll have a freaking car again

 

It forgets the key? I've never heard of that. Did it have electrical problems after the wreck?

 

I don't think it can forget the key. I think that the battery in the key can die though...

 

Mario at the shop was saying that after a car sits for a while, the second key may not still be recognized. i haven't tried the old key yet, but he alluded the the fact that i'd need to get it reflashed.

and i dont think it was a battery issue, because both cars were incapable of keylessly unlocking the doors until the key had been in the ignition. after that, i assume, the key gets enough juice to work, since both could open and lock the car, but only my dads key could start it

in any case, cars is weird, and my zip tied front end didn't fly off on the freeway. also, lifetime alignment rules

 

Did they get it in spec? Apparently lowering the car 1.75 inches makes it "impossible to get within spec" with only 3-bolt c/c's...

 

^that's what I was told. I just said, get it as close as possible

 

Good to know you figured it out. Stupid intelligent keys!

 

Sadly, there are more evil gremlins hiding inside my precious bullitt.

So first, a few weeks ago the car up and died on me, for no reason. I drove to gamestop, parked, went in, came out and tried to leave. The bullitt was being very unhappy at me, very rough idle and it would jerk around at low speeds. or so i thought. I figuredit was just annoyed and i needed to get it up to speed.

wrong. i got it on to the main road to go home, barely, and i don't even make it til the end of the block. she stalls. I was able to dump the cclutch and get it going twice, since the road was going downhill, but then i was at the bottom of two hills, in the middle of rush hour, with a broken car.

fast forward a bit. car is towed home, I did some googling. I was able to eventually get it started in the driveway, but again, rough idle. I could rev it up slowly, but if i removed the throttle input quickly or attempted to demand any sort of quick response out of it, she'd stall again. This went on for a while, and the internets led me to beleive I should replace the fuel filter. other people had similar problems at around 40-50k (mines at 47k) so i thought that would do the trick

NEGATORY. so after replacing the filter, it wont even start back up at all. i decide to use the handy dandy code reader my uncle gave me (didnt have it at the beginning of all this) and read P0190, which says there's an issue with the fuel rail pressure sensor. fine, again. I order it, it takes a month to get here, and after I've installed it alas, dead battery.

Attempted to start her with my battery jumper box. To no avail, lots of cranking, not alot of vrooming. Code reader now showing P1000: "OBD systems readiness test not complete" I'm not even sure what that means.

I tried to jump her today with the II (boy, that was an ironic moment in my life, the II resuscitating the bullitt ) and she would crank over, but still no start. Back to the code reader. Still throwing P1000 at me as well as a second code P1237 fuel pump secondary ckt FP Driver mod" Which i *think* means the fuel pump or something in its circtuit has gone bad, based on what ive read on some other forums. A couple folks solved the issue by replacing the pump, some even switched to the SVT focus pump, which they said was cheaper (though google shopping doesnt really seem to support that), supported more hp and was a direct fit.

I'm kind of debating letting someone smarter than me handle it at this point, but man that gets expensive. anyone ever had a shop do this? or do this themselves?

The other detail I noticed was most, if not all, of the threads i read about any of these codes involved cars that still ran. mine does no such thing. If anyone has had any experience or can shed any light here for me, I swear to you that you will be credited with a sticker, somewhere in the trunk of my car

but seriously, I'm pretty lost

 

Seems like David and Nathan are having issues that come back to the PCM and are researching the alternator TSB that affects the PCM.

https://themustangsource.com/f657/mustangs-coast-coast-470224/index3/#post6187374

https://themustangsource.com/f657/mustangs-coast-coast-470224/#post6187859

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...rror-code.html

I'd go back to basics. Are you getting fuel? Are you getting fire?

Try to start a few times. Pull the plug and inspect for wetness. Is it getting fuel to that cylinder?

Now see if you get spark when cranking with the plug grounded to the block/head.

Maybe this will identify a fuel issue vs a PCM/alternator fail not providing spark.

 

I personally would get the battery checked. If it won't charge properly, it might be time for a new one.

 

I have the P1000 code too (as well as P0340) which has to do with O2 sensors and o/r pipes.

Not sure about the other stuff...

 

I also have the P0340 code, and the ford dealer diagnosed it as problems caused by the PCM.

They say problems come in threes, hopefully solutions do as well!

 

I don't have the P0340 coded, but those symptoms sound fairly similar. are you guys able to use your cars at all? do they still start?

also, the battery is less than a year old. It shouldnt need replacing yet. i hope..

i cant beleive this is an issue for all three of us.. grr. i might take it to the shop that built the II. they helped with the key thing before and they've worked on just about every kind of stang ive ever seen. I'll keep you guys posted on anything i can figure out. danged computers

 

my car runs, but there's no telling when it's going to decide to pitch a fit, and not start correctly. Sometimes when it doesnt start, it backfires...very loudly. Scares me, so I know it scares the hell out of anyone around.