Currently Fuel Doors like we did for the PJ Saleen run. This is a prototype picture, but it's identical to production except for the finish they wanted to go with.

 

I like that finish. Do you currently sell doors in that finish?

 

We don't offer it as a "standard" finish, but when you are the manufacturer, you can make whatever you want

That's actually a media-blast finish, then clear anodized - we could do it on a special order basis for you, we're going to be running regular fuel doors again in a couple weeks when material arrives.

 

I didn't want a fuel door until I saw that. I'm fully sold now. The rest of them seem like they would stick out on Torch Red, but I think that would compliment it very well. Send me an email stanggt03@gmail.com and let me know how to order one.

 

Ok, I finally put mine on! These pics are kind of lousy, but I'll have some better ones once I put my new grille on.

http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showpo...3&postcount=59

 

Wes, those are sharp on an Alloy Pony.

 

Wes that really look great, did you do it yourself or have it done professionally?

Did you buy the louvers pre painted or have them painted?

It really makes your Pony stand out!

 

Thanks!

I did them myself and they came prepainted from SHR. I actually got them as part of the preorder a while back. Without going into that story, I *finally* got around to installing them (myself) this past weekend. Attached are a few recent pics, but beware....she is in dire need of a bath!

 

Had my louvers installed by JLT Performance. Jay did a great job!
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t...ULLIT/SHR6.jpg
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t...ULLIT/SHR2.jpg

 

FYI, we've got a new section of our website for our blem parts - if you've been on the fence, especially due to $$, here's your chance to pick up some deals! Limited to stock on hand, and when it's gone, it's gone! (at least until we screw up another piece!!)

http://www.silverhorseracing.com/web...ategory_id=270

 

Oh Boy, Marcello has opened a Bargain Basement!

 

Well, we can't bring ourselves to throw these pieces away, they are too good for that, but they can't be sold as perfect either, so we kind of get stuck... And we can't "shred" them back into another part run, because once they are painted, they can't be recycled into new parts in subsequent injection runs.

 

Marcello,

Could you post a pic of a blemished unpainted? what does it mean when the smoke goes on the clear portion? is it just streaks? Let me know, I'm at the checkout on your website, and I'd like to just hit SUBMIT!

 

Not today, but soon I should be able to. They are normally real minor issues, but things that we don't want to let out as "perfect" parts. By smoke in the clear, if you think of what cigarette smoke looks like on glass, you'd have a good idea - it's just the material flowed and left a "ghost" image instead of being 100% uniform in color, or moisture in the material can cause it as well, but the result is a "Wave" that is visible if you are looking at the piece - if you're just looking through it at what's outside, you probably won't notice it. (The window tinter's creed I think!)

Most of the painted blems are due to trimming issues - maybe a razor missed and scratched up a corner, maybe the trim line wasn't straight enough and we got sick of trying to blend it, things like that... sometimes (rarely) the part is repainted due to lack of coverage or a major flaw in the paint, and if the mask line isn't perfectly lined up there can be a ghost line of the first coat... in general, little things that bug me too much to let them out the door as new, but not bad enough that I wouldn't use them myself if the price "were right"

 

Well, I've been wanting them! So I just hit submit

 

LOL - and we just shipped, you will have them tomorrow, and remember, these are the "bad" parts... I think you will be pleasantly surprised.

Also, we just finished up adding a "painting tips" section to our instructions due to the number of calls we get about the process, so here they are posted below.

While we offer our louvers pre-painted, we realize a great number of our customers either want to tackle painting on their own, or give these directions to their local paint shop to assist them in getting the job done right on the first try. Please understand that this is a basic outline of how we do it here at SilverHorse Racing, and is not meant as a detailed how-to guide for proper painting and safety techniques. It is YOUR RESPONSIBILITY if you are painting these louvers or are having them painted to understand basic automotive painting techniques and safety precautions prior to starting this project.

• Start by thoroughly washing the louvers in a soap and water solution to remove any stray oils left by handling or the actual molding process. Allow to dry.
• Sand injection “gate” at top of part smooth to surface, and sand all edges as needed.
• Scuff / sand all surfaces to be painted with fine sanding paper.
• Again clean part and allow to dry.
• Install provided masks on exterior of part. Use normal masking techniques to insure underside of part is protected from overspray – paint should be able to be on “edge” of lip, but not on bottom side where it will be urethane-glued to the vehicle.
• Apply a black primer of your choice – we use PPG DP Epoxy Primer on exterior of part
• If spraying a very light color, a sealer coat may be added to help “bring up” the color. (helpful on yellows and whites)
• Spray color coats.
• Spray clear coats.
• Allow to dry thoroughly (we let pieces dry for two days) then using an X-Acto razor carefully trim around the masks prior to removing them.
• 3M finesse-it compound or equivalent can be used to polish parts, clear areas, and in general any issues that may crop up during the painting process, by hand. It is not recommended that power buffers be used, as it is very easy to burn through the paint and burnish the part.

 

Mine are on the way!!!!

 

Your going to luv them!!!!!!

 

I really like the Saleen fuel door. The ones I saw on the website have screws that stick out compared to the flush mounted ones I see in the Saleen. Is the Saleen style now the standard? And if so, is it available without any script?

Just to be more of a pest, I would have gotten one by now, but I would only want the screws to be silver with the rest of the door body colour - like the Tiburons. Just never wanted to pay that much for a fuel door AND then have to pay someone to paint it.

Cheers

 

Flush mount screws are not standard, but we can substitute them on request for customers, as we do have a few of them around here

We do not sell the Saleen door currently to anyone other than Saleen, so you'd need to contact them to get one with the script. Without the script, you're basically talking about our 5001-S part # with flush mount screws substituted in place of the cap-head screws. Those we have on the shelf, so that's not a big deal.

On the paint + cost of part - quality work costs money - the billets we start from alone cost more than the competition puts into their entire part... Maybe wait until one comes available from our scratch-n-dent pile with a discount? But you might have to take one with a GT lettered door, as they are made in greater quantities than the non-engraved doors.