Where to order a TrueTrac?
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Sorry if this has been posted before but I want to get a good price on a TrueTrac. Want to try and shop around before I decide on a T-Lok or the TrueTrac. Most of you all know the route I'm going so what would you all choose? I'm looking at in between 250-280rwhp N/A by the time this "shopping spree" is done so which differential should I get? And if its the TrueTrac can you please give me a link?
Shelby GT500 Member
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From: Riverside, CA
I'm probably getting the TT here http://www.drivetrainspecialists.com/categ...truetrac-1.html
unless I can get a better deal offline. But online it's the best I could find.
unless I can get a better deal offline. But online it's the best I could find.
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Originally posted by Gash05@January 26, 2006, 10:06 PM
Sorry if this has been posted before but I want to get a good price on a TrueTrac. Want to try and shop around before I decide on a T-Lok or the TrueTrac. Most of you all know the route I'm going so what would you all choose? I'm looking at in between 250-280rwhp N/A by the time this "shopping spree" is done so which differential should I get? And if its the TrueTrac can you please give me a link?
Sorry if this has been posted before but I want to get a good price on a TrueTrac. Want to try and shop around before I decide on a T-Lok or the TrueTrac. Most of you all know the route I'm going so what would you all choose? I'm looking at in between 250-280rwhp N/A by the time this "shopping spree" is done so which differential should I get? And if its the TrueTrac can you please give me a link?
The True-Trac is supposed to be our 400RWHP+ rear-end.. Add a Girdle like Jimp is done, and 500 to 600 shouldnt be a problem..
Basically if your goal is anywhere around 300RWHP, a T-LOK is the way to go... Desire more, and add the girdle...
You must understand a few things... Lets takes Jimps setup for example... He has the True-Trac girdled... He will break every component in his car from the axles, to the u-joints, to the transmission, to the clutch before the true value of his setup can be realized...
Now this is not to say that you shouldnt consider the true-trac.. Of course, its a darn good buy... But if your goal is only a measly 280RWHP then your throwing away money......
LOL!! Now money is never thrown away actually... But you know what I mean...
My reply is based on the 280RWHP portion of your post.. If your basing it on that, then I would suggest saving the extra $275 bucks, and getting the T-LOK, then throwing that money at other mods, which can be used to lower your ET's...
I'm sorry, the extra $294 bucks... LOL!! Jesus!!
Thats how much more the True Trac cost over the FRPP T-LOK..One more thing, getting the True-Trac means that at some point in the future, you desire 400+RWHP... Now I say get the TT if your not sure you will want more in the future.. Just be prepared to replace everything else which is twisted by the motor before the car moves.. Cause its all gonna break eventually..
I'm sorry again... Based on ManEHawks link its just $222.. So not bad.. Considering if you break a FRPP you will have to replace it, in which case the cost of installation will exceed the difference.. I say go for it, and get the TT.. I'm going to see how well the FRPP T-LOK will stand up girlded... I think the extra money is worth it to some extent.. Based on a bad case scenario at some point in the future.. Always good to plan for the future...
Cobra R Member
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One thing to take into considideration msp, the ford tlok needs to be rebuilt occasionally because the clutch packs wear out. The TT is a patented gear design and does not need rebuilding (unless of course you break it).
Shelby GT350 Member
Joined: April 29, 2005
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Originally posted by Fazm@January 27, 2006, 3:05 AM
and by the way, i got mine from drivetrainspecialists as well.
and by the way, i got mine from drivetrainspecialists as well.
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Originally posted by Fazm@January 27, 2006, 1:38 PM
Tuesday ordered, they called me 35 minutes later and told me it was on the truck. Arrived friday.
Tuesday ordered, they called me 35 minutes later and told me it was on the truck. Arrived friday.
Cobra R Member
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OH im gonna too lol. Im hopin to get them installed tomorrow. Just dont feel comfy doin it myself with my hand right now. Ill take a drive down to tucson and back to break them in, change the oil, and have fun lol.
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Originally posted by MSP@January 27, 2006, 2:23 AM
(words)
..a T-LOK is the way to go...
(words)
..a T-LOK is the way to go...
I understand that for < 300 RWHP a True Trac is overkill, HOWEVER, its my understanding the Ford T-Loc and True Trac actually function quite differently.
T-Lok --- rear wheels remain LOCKED at all times. Always-on 50% torque split and the rear wheels can never spin independantly
true trac -- functions as open diff until slip starts, then the left wheel gets locked.
As such, axles that are true limited slip (True trac, Auburn, Eaton) are better for day to day use. Or, is theT-Lok actually a true limited slip?
Bullitt Member
Joined: July 7, 2005
Posts: 459
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From: Washington
A TrueTrac will give you greater cornering traction when you are in a pre-sliding condition. A limited slip always scuffs the rear tires, thereby reducing your available cornering traction.
Shelby GT500 Member
Joined: January 30, 2004
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From: Riverside, CA
Originally posted by esorense@January 27, 2006, 3:21 PM
I understand that for < 300 RWHP a True Trac is overkill, HOWEVER, its my understanding the Ford T-Loc and True Trac actually function quite differently.
T-Lok --- rear wheels remain LOCKED at all times. Always-on 50% torque split and the rear wheels can never spin independantly
true trac -- functions as open diff until slip starts, then the left wheel gets locked.
As such, axles that are true limited slip (True trac, Auburn, Eaton) are better for day to day use. Or, is theT-Lok actually a true limited slip?
I understand that for < 300 RWHP a True Trac is overkill, HOWEVER, its my understanding the Ford T-Loc and True Trac actually function quite differently.
T-Lok --- rear wheels remain LOCKED at all times. Always-on 50% torque split and the rear wheels can never spin independantly
true trac -- functions as open diff until slip starts, then the left wheel gets locked.
As such, axles that are true limited slip (True trac, Auburn, Eaton) are better for day to day use. Or, is theT-Lok actually a true limited slip?
The T-lok has a preload spring in the center, with clutch discs next to the side gears.
IMO the TT isn't overkill because it will outlast any friction type LSD, and is stronger (*I don't know if it has a beefier flange than Auburns to take up stress off the cover bolts though).
Bullitt Member
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Originally posted by esorense@January 27, 2006, 7:21 PM
I understand that for < 300 RWHP a True Trac is overkill, HOWEVER, its my understanding the Ford T-Loc and True Trac actually function quite differently.
T-Lok --- rear wheels remain LOCKED at all times. Always-on 50% torque split and the rear wheels can never spin independantly
true trac -- functions as open diff until slip starts, then the left wheel gets locked.
As such, axles that are true limited slip (True trac, Auburn, Eaton) are better for day to day use. Or, is theT-Lok actually a true limited slip?
I understand that for < 300 RWHP a True Trac is overkill, HOWEVER, its my understanding the Ford T-Loc and True Trac actually function quite differently.
T-Lok --- rear wheels remain LOCKED at all times. Always-on 50% torque split and the rear wheels can never spin independantly
true trac -- functions as open diff until slip starts, then the left wheel gets locked.
As such, axles that are true limited slip (True trac, Auburn, Eaton) are better for day to day use. Or, is theT-Lok actually a true limited slip?
Bullitt Member
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Originally posted by screaminyellin6@January 27, 2006, 5:02 PM
me three ...
and Great Service. Had it within the week !
me three ...
and Great Service. Had it within the week !
MSP: What $294 difference? You can get a T-Lok for $56? I only paid $350 for my TT....
Bullitt Member
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From: Colorado Springs
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Fazm @ January 28, 2006, 12:09 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
MY TT install is delayed until early next week.
took that thing out of the package and first impressions... "Man thats huge!"
[/b][/quote]
How hard is it to install one of these? Is the install the same as the T-Lok or the Auburn?
I'm a good mechanic. I've had to change the pinion seal on my 1975 Datsun 280Z before... is the job similar?
MY TT install is delayed until early next week.
took that thing out of the package and first impressions... "Man thats huge!"
[/b][/quote]
How hard is it to install one of these? Is the install the same as the T-Lok or the Auburn?
I'm a good mechanic. I've had to change the pinion seal on my 1975 Datsun 280Z before... is the job similar?
Bullitt Member
Joined: July 7, 2005
Posts: 459
Likes: 1
From: Washington
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Flapjack @ February 3, 2006, 3:15 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
How hard is it to install one of these? Is the install the same as the T-Lok or the Auburn?
I'm a good mechanic. I've had to change the pinion seal on my 1975 Datsun 280Z before... is the job similar?
[/b][/quote]
If you intend to do this yourself, please be advised that the full Ford service manual is available from this web site in PDF Format:
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index.php?showtopic=43623
The cost is about $15.
I watched mine being installed, and I think I would like to have someone on-call to help me if I were to try it myself. I think it is easier when you don't change gear ratios, since you hopefully would not have to re-shim the ring and the pinion.
How hard is it to install one of these? Is the install the same as the T-Lok or the Auburn?
I'm a good mechanic. I've had to change the pinion seal on my 1975 Datsun 280Z before... is the job similar?
[/b][/quote]
If you intend to do this yourself, please be advised that the full Ford service manual is available from this web site in PDF Format:
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index.php?showtopic=43623
The cost is about $15.
I watched mine being installed, and I think I would like to have someone on-call to help me if I were to try it myself. I think it is easier when you don't change gear ratios, since you hopefully would not have to re-shim the ring and the pinion.
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I probably should have clerified...for now I'll be getting all the motor building mods so I'll only be at 270-280rwhp, but I plan on turbo-ing the beast later this year and shooting for 450rwhp when I'm done, so I guess I'll be needing the TT [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(MSP @ January 27, 2006, 1:23 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
The True-Trac is supposed to be our 400RWHP+ rear-end.. Add a Girdle like Jimp is done, and 500 to 600 shouldnt be a problem..
Basically if your goal is anywhere around 300RWHP, a T-LOK is the way to go... Desire more, and add the girdle...
You must understand a few things... Lets takes Jimps setup for example... He has the True-Trac girdled... He will break every component in his car from the axles, to the u-joints, to the transmission, to the clutch before the true value of his setup can be realized...
Now this is not to say that you shouldnt consider the true-trac.. Of course, its a darn good buy... But if your goal is only a measly 280RWHP then your throwing away money......
LOL!! Now money is never thrown away actually... But you know what I mean...
My reply is based on the 280RWHP portion of your post.. If your basing it on that, then I would suggest saving the extra $275 bucks, and getting the T-LOK, then throwing that money at other mods, which can be used to lower your ET's... [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumb.gif[/img]
I'm sorry, the extra $294 bucks... LOL!! Jesus!! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/icon_mrgreen.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/eek.gif[/img] Thats how much more the True Trac cost over the FRPP T-LOK..
One more thing, getting the True-Trac means that at some point in the future, you desire 400+RWHP... Now I say get the TT if your not sure you will want more in the future.. Just be prepared to replace everything else which is twisted by the motor before the car moves.. Cause its all gonna break eventually..
I'm sorry again... Based on ManEHawks link its just $222.. So not bad.. Considering if you break a FRPP you will have to replace it, in which case the cost of installation will exceed the difference.. I say go for it, and get the TT.. I'm going to see how well the FRPP T-LOK will stand up girlded... I think the extra money is worth it to some extent.. Based on a bad case scenario at some point in the future.. Always good to plan for the future...
[/b][/quote]
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(MSP @ January 27, 2006, 1:23 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
The True-Trac is supposed to be our 400RWHP+ rear-end.. Add a Girdle like Jimp is done, and 500 to 600 shouldnt be a problem..
Basically if your goal is anywhere around 300RWHP, a T-LOK is the way to go... Desire more, and add the girdle...
You must understand a few things... Lets takes Jimps setup for example... He has the True-Trac girdled... He will break every component in his car from the axles, to the u-joints, to the transmission, to the clutch before the true value of his setup can be realized...
Now this is not to say that you shouldnt consider the true-trac.. Of course, its a darn good buy... But if your goal is only a measly 280RWHP then your throwing away money......
LOL!! Now money is never thrown away actually... But you know what I mean...
My reply is based on the 280RWHP portion of your post.. If your basing it on that, then I would suggest saving the extra $275 bucks, and getting the T-LOK, then throwing that money at other mods, which can be used to lower your ET's... [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumb.gif[/img]
I'm sorry, the extra $294 bucks... LOL!! Jesus!! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/icon_mrgreen.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/eek.gif[/img] Thats how much more the True Trac cost over the FRPP T-LOK..
One more thing, getting the True-Trac means that at some point in the future, you desire 400+RWHP... Now I say get the TT if your not sure you will want more in the future.. Just be prepared to replace everything else which is twisted by the motor before the car moves.. Cause its all gonna break eventually..
I'm sorry again... Based on ManEHawks link its just $222.. So not bad.. Considering if you break a FRPP you will have to replace it, in which case the cost of installation will exceed the difference.. I say go for it, and get the TT.. I'm going to see how well the FRPP T-LOK will stand up girlded... I think the extra money is worth it to some extent.. Based on a bad case scenario at some point in the future.. Always good to plan for the future...
[/b][/quote]
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