Centurion96

So does anyone have photos of the Pro 5 installed at the lower position? Pix please.
Does the Steeda also have a lower mounting position?

TIA

BB

Semper Fi

Stoenr

And how invloved is switching from lower to higher once installed?

tom281

See post #43, pic #6. That's the Roush **** in the lower position.

See post #43, pic #4. Lift the shift boot, remove the 2 bolts on the side of the shift lever, raise/lower shift lever, reinstall bolts. Very easy, 2 minute job.

touring

Yes the steeda does have a lower mountting position,i just had the tri ax installed and i love it!! cant belive that wasent my first mod!!i'll take pics if you want

Centurion96

Please and thanks, it will give me a comparison between it and the Pro 5 photo from tom281. I'm also considering the GTA axle backs from ninosports.

Thanks all.


BB

SoFlaBoss

Gus at Steeda has been very helpful. What I know now, is that although the Pro 5.0 from LFP does not have the same thread size/pitch as the stock shifter, however, the stock shifter **** will still fit the Pro 5.0 because the stock shifter **** only has a nylon insert, which was originally unthreaded, until it got screwed onto the stock shifter. The nylon insert adapts to the Pro 5.0, which is why the extra effort is needed to screw it on the Pro 5.0. However, my new Roush billet shifter **** still won't fit. So, I am temporarily using the stock shifter **** until I can find a replacement shifter lever that fits both the Pro 5.0 and the Roush shifter ****. Again, the Pro 5.0 shifter from LFP does not have the same thread size as the stock shifter.

BuzzyStang05

Ditto. On my Pro5.0, I just cranked the stock **** on there with a little extra effort to rethread the nylon. It's on there solid.

DokterD

I put the Hurst in about a month after buying my 07 GT. At first a little stiff but now, no problems. Notchiness is gone and I can shift all gears with the gas floored with NO missed gears. Spend as much as you like but I'm more than satisfied with Hurst. My only complaint is that the T-handle (polished aluminum) gets friggin' cold in the winter. BTW, the T made all the difference to me. 162.00 and it shifts great. You do need to blue locktite the handle tho', it will vibrate loose after a while if you don't.

Poco

When I first installed my B&M short throw I was really happy but now it squeaks from time to time.I had to squirt a little grease on the fastners to calm it down.I did install the bushings correctly and would just like to get a Hurst instead.

GPStang06

I have been away and haven't had time to post all my stuff from my install but here is some of the pictures of the shift **** and throw from the Steeda Tri-Ax.

1st and 2nd, **** height: Stock Shifter:



1st to 2nd throw, lower height: Steeda Tri-Ax.



Upper and Lower position comparison: Steeda Tri-Ax



I have mine set back to the lower on the Tri-Ax, it is basically the same as the stock shifter height.

Stoenr

How the heck did you manage to get the 2nd 2 pics look like you have 2 shifters lol
The 1st one I can see the cut n paste job, nice job on the 2nd 2.
And thanks gives a great visual!!!

GPStang06

LOL all Photoshop, the master I am not . The first picture had the flash on for the one pic but not the other, thats why the lighting is different.

tom281

Great pix Gary!

Hatchman

Nice chops, that really makes it easy to see!

For comparison, here's the Hurst 1-2 shift. Looks a little shorter than the Steeda, but it also locks you out of 3rd on WOT shifts and is pretty notchy, so I wouldn't recommend it.

65sohc

Dang! The throw isn't even the distance of the shifter ****! That must be a huge change in leverage. Hurst must have really designed it to be used with their longer handles.

Hatchman

They did, it's really designed to be used with the longer chrome handle, where the throw would be a little longer. The effort to shift is a little higher than stock, and a little notchy, but I like the short throw, you barelly have to flick your wrist. I'm installing a CHE K member brace with torque limiters to stiffen up the front end and cure the 3rd gear lockout under WOT shifts.

touring

the steeda tri ax shifter is the way to go it's perfect in every shift and it's only getting better. If i had to do it over again this would have been my first mod

GPStang06

Have to agree. I have close to 1000 miles on it now and it's to the point that I can shift with just a finger and my wrist. Really broke in nice.

metroplex

Nice comparison! It looks like the Tri-Ax allows for a much shorter throw in the odd numbered gears while the even gears have the same amount of throw from what I could see.

GPStang06

I have gotten all the pics off the camera and am close to doing a writeup of my install. I'll post when ready.

Something I did also was flip the shifter arm around. In my pictures above the odd gears (1st and 3rd) set the arm and **** a little further back from what they are as stock. I flipped that piece around so the angle is facing the AC controls and now the 1st and 3rd are in the same place as stock but 2nd and 4th are a little more forward. I'll snap some pics and maybe do another video clip of how easy the shifter is now that it is broke in.