Pulled trigger on LT's
#101
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All the headers I have seen pic of have the front O2 in the collector. But that is cool if those don't, one less thing to buy and worry about.
Update.......Got confirmation from the guy that will help me with the install, he is good to go. And I ordered a new set of gaskets from the dealer and will pick them up tomorrow. I found out that they are cheaper from the dealer ($40) than Autozone ($45), who knew. Also found out that there are 4 manifold gaskets, 2 for each side, interesting. Now I'm just watching the minutes tick by till Sat.
Update.......Got confirmation from the guy that will help me with the install, he is good to go. And I ordered a new set of gaskets from the dealer and will pick them up tomorrow. I found out that they are cheaper from the dealer ($40) than Autozone ($45), who knew. Also found out that there are 4 manifold gaskets, 2 for each side, interesting. Now I'm just watching the minutes tick by till Sat.
Yeah Dean the stock gaskets are split and there are two on each side. As far as the placement of the O2 sensors in the OBX headers they are in the collector. This is where you put the front O2 sensors. Larry (Aircare84) got a code after 800 miles and one later. Something like "O2 sensors slow to heat". Just reset the code with your tuner and keep on trucking. So far after about 2000 miles since my install I have never got that code. Only time will tell. Maybe Larry will see this post and give an update on his. But it harms nothing when and if you guys get this code. Just reset and go!!!
Scott
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#102
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Starting my install tomorrow night!
Thanks Scott for the tools, you're the man!![Worship](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/worship.gif)
Noticed mention of locking bolts, did I miss those requirements somewhere in all the posts?
Thanks Scott for the tools, you're the man!
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Noticed mention of locking bolts, did I miss those requirements somewhere in all the posts?
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#103
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Don't freak...I did do the the Stage 8 locking header bolts. But I am not sure they are really needed. Larry used the stock studs and nuts and has not had any type of issue that I know of. Again I hope he chime's in with his opinion. But you read threads about header bolts backing off due to heat and you just need to wonder if the bolts I bought are really needed. Again....they are just insurance!!! But may not be madatory! IMO!
Scott
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Don't freak...I did do the the Stage 8 locking header bolts. But I am not sure they are really needed. Larry used the stock studs and nuts and has not had any type of issue that I know of. Again I hope he chime's in with his opinion. But you read threads about header bolts backing off due to heat and you just need to wonder if the bolts I bought are really needed. Again....they are just insurance!!! But may not be madatory! IMO!
Scott
Scott
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Okay Al...If you are using the stock header bolts and studs (which is fine) You will have to cut like (2) studs off so they will fit under the header tubes. As I remember (1) on them is the rear stud on the drivers side and I can't remember what side the other is on. Don't worry....you will figure it out real quick since nothing else will work out!!!!
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Scott
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Okay Al...If you are using the stock header bolts and studs (which is fine) You will have to cut like (2) studs off so they will fit under the header tubes. As I remember (1) on them is the rear stud on the drivers side and I can't remember what side the other is on. Don't worry....you will figure it out real quick since nothing else will work out!!!!![Thumb](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/thumb.gif)
Scott
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Scott
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Good luck on your install, if you have any questions, PM me for my cell #, I should be installing my prothene mounts on mine this weekend.
Did you get the locking header bolts to replace the stock studs? If not, you'll have to cut down 2 of the factory studs,as they are too long on the last 2 upper on drivers side. I cut mine down flush with the nut.
Did you get the locking header bolts to replace the stock studs? If not, you'll have to cut down 2 of the factory studs,as they are too long on the last 2 upper on drivers side. I cut mine down flush with the nut.
And Scott, I talked to Doug today and he should have emailed me the tune update for the LT's, that will prevent any codes from showing up. I will see if i can get it loaded on my XCAL3 tomorrow. I also know the O2's will go in the collectors, I have plans to extend the harness so I should be good to go. I hope.
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OK, so the headers are on the local truck for delivery today! One last question for anyone with information specific to the OBX LTs...
Does anyone know where I can find the torque specs for all these parts? Especially for the clamps on the new H-pipe clamps?
Does anyone know where I can find the torque specs for all these parts? Especially for the clamps on the new H-pipe clamps?
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Larry and I didn't use a torque wrench on ours. There are no instructions with the headers. We just made them fairly snug. Don't overtighten and you will be fine.
#110
You'll also want to put some anti-seize lubricant on those bolts before putting them in. It should say so in instructions. I know I did on the headers and then also on the O2 sensors. I used the bolts that came with my Kooks headers and snugged them up again after first run, then about 500 miles and again the other day. Last two times required no additional tightening.
One other thing that came up on mine is that after the install I had a rattle on the over-axle pipe. I thought it was on the tail pipe at the bumper, but it turns out I shifted the passenger over axle pipe unintentionally and it was rubbing against the underside of the spare tire well. Just be sure to check all these things after reinstalling the mid-pipe. Also watch the over axle and its clearance over the panhard rod support brace, I think it could rub there too if it were to rest on it.
Any questions let me know also, I don't have direct OBX knowledge but I did do the Kooks install.
Edit: Also you'll need to spray some liquid wrench on the stock manifolds when you start to loosen those studs, and you'll need to clean the block after you get the gaskets off.
One other thing that came up on mine is that after the install I had a rattle on the over-axle pipe. I thought it was on the tail pipe at the bumper, but it turns out I shifted the passenger over axle pipe unintentionally and it was rubbing against the underside of the spare tire well. Just be sure to check all these things after reinstalling the mid-pipe. Also watch the over axle and its clearance over the panhard rod support brace, I think it could rub there too if it were to rest on it.
Any questions let me know also, I don't have direct OBX knowledge but I did do the Kooks install.
Edit: Also you'll need to spray some liquid wrench on the stock manifolds when you start to loosen those studs, and you'll need to clean the block after you get the gaskets off.
Last edited by 2k7gtcs; 5/30/08 at 12:44 PM.
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OK, ripped out, cleaned up, and install has begun!!!!! Got the passenger side installed, now for the driver's side. Put the 'flt' in the headers, awesome tools Scott! Question though that I don;t remember seeing.... Oil dipstick??? There is room available in the stockers, but the OBX are one flat piece. How did you guys handle this???
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OK, ripped out, cleaned up, and install has begun!!!!! Got the passenger side installed, now for the driver's side. Put the 'flt' in the headers, awesome tools Scott! Question though that I don;t remember seeing.... Oil dipstick??? There is room available in the stockers, but the OBX are one flat piece. How did you guys handle this???
Scott
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Last edited by 70MACH1OWNER; 5/30/08 at 06:48 PM.
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Guess I'm confused here... There are no openings between the flanges on the OBX like the stockers, won't it crush the tube??
EDIT: Sorry, must be the fatigue setting in LOL... So it will run between the pipes using the spacer and longer bolt. Outstanding!!
EDIT: Sorry, must be the fatigue setting in LOL... So it will run between the pipes using the spacer and longer bolt. Outstanding!!
Last edited by EastCoast07GtCs; 5/30/08 at 07:02 PM.
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Okay Al...I have tried to take a good pic 3 times now and unless I want to strip the divers side of the engine down it ain't going to happen. Here is the best I can show you were the dipstick tube will go. Remember it is spaced 1/2 inch away from the block and you will need a 1/2 inch longer M6 bolt. I got mine at Lowe's
Scott
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Al, you already started!?
Lucky! Hope it is smooth!
Good info Scott on the dipstick! I will watch for that tomorrow too!
Well....I failed you guys, I got the boards all pack up to go surf and in all the excitment I got my gaskets but forgot to ask about the torque
spec
. I did do some digging to try and redeem myself, on anouther forum the say 18 lbs/tq, and in Borla's SS LT installation instructions it has 13-23 lbs/tq. So I would shoot for about 20 lbs/tq.
Sorry off subject But:
I just have to add, the
surf was Sweet! We don't get great
surf often in TX, but nobody was on the beach and the
surf was clean, rollen and chest hi!! We stayed till we could not see anymore!
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Good info Scott on the dipstick! I will watch for that tomorrow too!
Well....I failed you guys, I got the boards all pack up to go surf and in all the excitment I got my gaskets but forgot to ask about the torque
spec
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Sorry off subject But:
I just have to add, the
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#120
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Sounds awesome Dean! So far it has been better than I expected. It's one of those things where nothing is ridiculously difficult, but EVERYTHING seems time consuming LOL Have to be honest, My arms felt like jello last night, the creeper was great for my back but breaking some of those bolts and listing the headers was a BEAR!!!