Pulled trigger on LT's
#81
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Like I said...check these guys out. While I will omit most of their experience is ricer. They have a ton of experience.
http://www.2kracing.com/Manufacturer/OBX
http://www.2kracing.com/Manufacturer/OBX
#82
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I know you don't like the way the gaskets look that came with the OBX headers. They are about 1/16 inch thick but have you ever seen the stockers? They are a single piece of sheet metal maybe .010 thick with a formed bead around the exhaust port. I know many guys say they have reused their stockers but once that formed bead is crushed once I don't think I would reuse them. I would also get new. But just for the record when Aircare84 and I did ours we both used the OBX gaskets. Neither of us have any leaks so far. And to set your minds at ease a little bit have you ever done a search on what OBX makes for just about every car out there? Try it some time...I did and that is why I used their gaskets. I believe they know exhaust system pretty good. Just my opinion though. Only time will tell if I made the right decision in gasket choice.
Scott
Scott
#83
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PLEASE LEARN FROM MY OBX EXPERIENCE.
Pay very close attention to the driver's side clearance of the steering shaft and bell housing. Mine are rubbing on both, and I have the installer to blame for not noticing this and "adjusting" the header. Also be sure to use the OE manifold gaskets, not the gaskets in the kit.
Good luck.
Pay very close attention to the driver's side clearance of the steering shaft and bell housing. Mine are rubbing on both, and I have the installer to blame for not noticing this and "adjusting" the header. Also be sure to use the OE manifold gaskets, not the gaskets in the kit.
Good luck.
#84
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On my 2001 silverado I bought a set of Gibson SS shorties and used the gasket that came with the set, it was about 1/16 too and looked very similar to the OBX's. When I sold the truck I removed the Gibson header and put the OEM back on and on the driver side I had 3 leakbys and 2 on the pasenger side. I knew I had leaks but never got around to fixing them, even though they are about the easyest headers on a vehical to access. When I installed them I used the bolts that came with them too, torqued to speck, went through a heat cycle, torqued, then retorqued after 500 miles and 1500 miles, some of the bolts would be alittle loose. And they still leaked by. You used a locking bolt so you will be fine, but I will used the factory ones, so I will have a better piece of mind with new OE gaskets after my experience.
I understand. Just get a new OE set for the piece of mind!!
#85
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Hey Scott, was checking out Faber's thread on this for a tool list, and I noticed he didn't mention the steering column. Did you have to do anything with it to get the driver's side in? I could swear I saw that posted somewhere...
#87
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I have looked for that thread for days, do you have a link?
#88
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I found it in a random search, sorry, don't have the link... but I did copy it out so I had it for a shopping list LOL
2 ton hydraulic jack and some jack stands
5mm end wrench
8mm end wrench
13mm end wrench
15mm end wrench
17mm end wrench
19mm end wrench
21mm end wrench
3/8 drive ratchet with 3 long extensions, and a swivel
Sockets (shallow and deep) for all sizes of wrenches mentioned above
1/2 inch ratcheting box end craftsman wrench (someone had suggested it and i am including it because i wished i had taken that advice...)
Jack up the car, set the E-brake and put her on jack stands.
Remove the battery and the battery tray
unplug all O2 sensors, but did not remove them from manifolds or h-pipe
unbolt the hpipe from the exhaust manifolds
remove the driveshaft loop type thing
remove the tranny crossmember bolts
loosen the pipe clamps on the H-pipe and wrestle it out from the car.
Remove the starter
remove the motor mount nuts on the K-member.
place a wood block ( I used a 2x6 about 8 inches long) under the oil pan and jack the motor up enough to get the mounts loose.
remove the motor mount brackets
Remove all nuts from exhaust manifolds (some guys like to just loosen the manifold nuts a bit and then remove the studs, but i only remove the studs that I could not get the headers over easily. this way the gaskets will hang on without trouble)
remove the exhaust manifolds.
Place gaskets on heads. I re-used the stock gaskets because they were nice and thin and in great shape.
remove old 02 sensors from old h-pipe
Install headers.
I extended the o2 sensors myself with a soldering iron and some high temp gasoline resistant wire and heat shrink tubing, otherwise install o2 sensor extensions.
install 02 sensors ans zip tie away from heat sources.
install h-pipe
re-install tranny crossmember.
re-install driveshaft loop thingy
get her off the jack and go for a drive! listen for leaks, and make sure you get the car up to operating temp.
let the car cool down and then re-torque everything.
2 ton hydraulic jack and some jack stands
5mm end wrench
8mm end wrench
13mm end wrench
15mm end wrench
17mm end wrench
19mm end wrench
21mm end wrench
3/8 drive ratchet with 3 long extensions, and a swivel
Sockets (shallow and deep) for all sizes of wrenches mentioned above
1/2 inch ratcheting box end craftsman wrench (someone had suggested it and i am including it because i wished i had taken that advice...)
Jack up the car, set the E-brake and put her on jack stands.
Remove the battery and the battery tray
unplug all O2 sensors, but did not remove them from manifolds or h-pipe
unbolt the hpipe from the exhaust manifolds
remove the driveshaft loop type thing
remove the tranny crossmember bolts
loosen the pipe clamps on the H-pipe and wrestle it out from the car.
Remove the starter
remove the motor mount nuts on the K-member.
place a wood block ( I used a 2x6 about 8 inches long) under the oil pan and jack the motor up enough to get the mounts loose.
remove the motor mount brackets
Remove all nuts from exhaust manifolds (some guys like to just loosen the manifold nuts a bit and then remove the studs, but i only remove the studs that I could not get the headers over easily. this way the gaskets will hang on without trouble)
remove the exhaust manifolds.
Place gaskets on heads. I re-used the stock gaskets because they were nice and thin and in great shape.
remove old 02 sensors from old h-pipe
Install headers.
I extended the o2 sensors myself with a soldering iron and some high temp gasoline resistant wire and heat shrink tubing, otherwise install o2 sensor extensions.
install 02 sensors ans zip tie away from heat sources.
install h-pipe
re-install tranny crossmember.
re-install driveshaft loop thingy
get her off the jack and go for a drive! listen for leaks, and make sure you get the car up to operating temp.
let the car cool down and then re-torque everything.
#89
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#90
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70MACH1OWNER had brought that up, and also ways to solve/prevent it on the steering shaft , but please explain more on the bell housing. How did you fix it. A way to address any possible problem on our install will be most helpfull. I think we have about 4 of us that just ordered a set.
The O2 extenders from Brenspeed are 18" long, you only need about 12". I looped up & ty-raped the extra length.
We didn't need to remove the steering column or shaft on either Scott's car or mine for the install.
#91
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#92
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You do not have to remove the steering shaft for the install as Larry has said. And you do not have to put the flat on the header if you don't want to. The Prothanes will cure any steering shaft rub issue. I just put the flat on mine for the added clearance. Because you can not tell if you will have any issue until the install is complete and than it is to late to add the flat to the header pipe. I also do not remember Faber having any issue with the steering shaft.
Scott
#93
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I pulled the trigger on Long Tubes with H Pipes from Pacesetter. Less expensive than the OBXs even with the shipping.
I also got a great deal from someone here on the site for a 2.5" Granatelli Cat Back system (http://www.granatellimotorsports.com...lay.php?gid=15), so I should soon test my new setup!
Oh, one question: Pacesetter says that they use the stock location for the O2 sensor. Does that mean that I won't necessarily need a new tune if I install these LTs?
Let me know.
Thanks!
I also got a great deal from someone here on the site for a 2.5" Granatelli Cat Back system (http://www.granatellimotorsports.com...lay.php?gid=15), so I should soon test my new setup!
Oh, one question: Pacesetter says that they use the stock location for the O2 sensor. Does that mean that I won't necessarily need a new tune if I install these LTs?
Let me know.
Thanks!
#95
I pulled the trigger on Long Tubes with H Pipes from Pacesetter. Less expensive than the OBXs even with the shipping.
I also got a great deal from someone here on the site for a 2.5" Granatelli Cat Back system (http://www.granatellimotorsports.com...lay.php?gid=15), so I should soon test my new setup!
Oh, one question: Pacesetter says that they use the stock location for the O2 sensor. Does that mean that I won't necessarily need a new tune if I install these LTs?
Let me know.
Thanks!
I also got a great deal from someone here on the site for a 2.5" Granatelli Cat Back system (http://www.granatellimotorsports.com...lay.php?gid=15), so I should soon test my new setup!
Oh, one question: Pacesetter says that they use the stock location for the O2 sensor. Does that mean that I won't necessarily need a new tune if I install these LTs?
Let me know.
Thanks!
Last edited by Faber; 5/27/08 at 11:46 AM.
#96
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the pacesetter headers are steel, and I believe they are not coated other than some high temp paint. I looked at those also but was concerned about them holding up for very long. you will need a tune if they eliminate the rear o2 sensors. I would also make sure they are for 05-08 mustangs, and if you can get them coated with the armorcoating instead of the high temp paint you will be better off.
Thanks for the advice. I'll look into that.
#97
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I pulled the trigger on Long Tubes with H Pipes from Pacesetter. Less expensive than the OBXs even with the shipping.
I also got a great deal from someone here on the site for a 2.5" Granatelli Cat Back system (http://www.granatellimotorsports.com...lay.php?gid=15), so I should soon test my new setup!
Oh, one question: Pacesetter says that they use the stock location for the O2 sensor. Does that mean that I won't necessarily need a new tune if I install these LTs?
Let me know.
Thanks!
I also got a great deal from someone here on the site for a 2.5" Granatelli Cat Back system (http://www.granatellimotorsports.com...lay.php?gid=15), so I should soon test my new setup!
Oh, one question: Pacesetter says that they use the stock location for the O2 sensor. Does that mean that I won't necessarily need a new tune if I install these LTs?
Let me know.
Thanks!
#98
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The O2 sensors placement apparently are in the same location as stock according to the manufacturer... they don't include extensions. I don't know about the rear O2s, but I'll post pics for everyone to see.
#99
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Update.......Got confirmation from the guy that will help me with the install, he is good to go. And I ordered a new set of gaskets from the dealer and will pick them up tomorrow. I found out that they are cheaper from the dealer ($40) than Autozone ($45), who knew. Also found out that there are 4 manifold gaskets, 2 for each side, interesting. Now I'm just watching the minutes tick by till Sat.
#100
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Good luck on your install, if you have any questions, PM me for my cell #, I should be installing my prothene mounts on mine this weekend.
Did you get the locking header bolts to replace the stock studs? If not, you'll have to cut down 2 of the factory studs,as they are too long on the last 2 upper on drivers side. I cut mine down flush with the nut.
Did you get the locking header bolts to replace the stock studs? If not, you'll have to cut down 2 of the factory studs,as they are too long on the last 2 upper on drivers side. I cut mine down flush with the nut.