http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showpo...33&postcount=8

 

Maybe. I do know that it was the cheaper gas that kept pissing off my fuel level sender on my 05 (before Ford FINALLY came out with a revised sender and TSB). I was fine if I stayed with Chevron, but one tank of "lesser" gas was enough to start problems about 120 miles down the road. Fifty miles after filling up with Chevron, all was well again.

 

See here for some pics of my stock plugs at 60K miles.

http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showthread.php?p=5535722

 

I got an M9X1.0 tap and I'm going to make the shield extractor tool myself

 

Go for it! It is not a hard tool to make if you have access to a lathe and a milling machine (to make the hex on the end of the small inner shaft). Like I stated earlier, I just took measurements from the sparkplug opening on the engine and reverse engineered the tool.

One warning....be carefull tapping the shield in the head. You wouldn't want to break the tap off in the head, then you are screwed. Don't put too much torque on the tap, the shield seems to be pretty tough and when I tapped mine it was scarey. I have been a machinst for 18 years and after that long you know by feel how hard you can twist a tap. On my F150 I know I was near the snapping point.

But from what I have been reading, I don't think our engines are as big a concern as the 5.4 3V engines. I haven't done my Mustangs yet, but I might today (home from work sick)

 

I just got done taking all 8 plugs out for the sc install and they all came out with no problem, no screeching or other noises at all. Most of them after the initial 1/4 turn breaking them loose were able to be turned by hand. I only have 16k on the clock so I would venture to say you should be safe to at least 25k with no problems.

 

I was going to make the tool by drilling a hole in the end of a steel shaft to slide the back end of the tap into then drilling a hole through the side of the shaft and the tap together and pinning it in place. That should hold it fine.

Then I'll drill a hole at the top of the shaft to put another rod through it to make a T-handle. I think the outer secondary part of the rotunda tool is just to guide the tap in so it's centered. That can be made by measuring the ID of the spark plug well and boring out the end to slip past the spark plug hex part.

I need to also get some Ford carb cleaner and those little plastic caps the TSB describes to catch the metal filings.


I'll sell the tool when I'm done with it, I'll never use motorcraft plugs again

 

Well I got the plugs yesterday. They are the correct model 7989 plugs with a nice one piece design and look very high quality. Got them for $63 shipped. They're now over $16 a piece at clubplug.net. I'm really surprised that they didn't just send an email explaining the price on their site was wrong and give me a refund. I will be attempting the install tomorrow and I'm quite nervous about it. My car only has 25k miles so I don't think it should be a problem.

 

good luck! I've got my parts on order, hopefully I can get them by friday!

 

I did the install today and didn't have any problems pulling the old ones. I did it with the engine slightly warmed. The plugs broke free with the torque wrench set to 28 ft/lb. I soaked them in PB blaster for an hour and all came out with very little effort and without a sound. The car seems to rev a little better with the champion plugs as well. I'm really glad that's finally done with.

Here's a pic:

 

Since those champions have a conventional electrode, is there a greater chance they will get out of spec later on? Otherwise what is the point of the factory electrode design?

Did you also put antiseize on the threads? I don't really understand why the tsb says not too. It seems like a bad idea.

 

This is just a thought and I'm not sure if it would work but if you wanted to run a two piece plug couldn't we spot weld or braze a couple tiny spots around the seam to keep the plug together?

 

I didn't put any antisieze on the threads because of the TSB. I dont know why they suggest you dont but I figure they have a reason. I think if you torque them to spec there shouldnt be any problem with threads seizing up on you.

On a side note I had the car out tonight testing it and there is definitely a dramatic difference in how the car performs. It's revving and pulling a lot harder now. Champion plugs get a huge from me.

 

I can't wait to put mine in now. I'm definately going to anti-seize the threads, you're nuts if you don't IMO.

 

They don't want you to anti-sieze the threads because it may prevent the lubricant from wicking down to the shield area if that needs to be done on the next plug removal. Now whether you'll need to do that with the one piece plug remains to be seen.

 

In short, no. They are crimped together and if you look at one, you would see why.

 

I'm at 70k, so now I'm terrified.

clubplug.net. Thanks Should have looked before I asked

Mike E

 

I have looked at one, I just changed all 8 to put in the S/C, but I still don't see why.

 

Are you guys using some Fuel Additives which cleans carburator, spark plugs, prevents carbon build up and cleans injectors?

 

I have used Techron additive once about 15K miles ago, but that is the only additive I have ever used.