I assume you are not thinking of using the tap to remove the ground electrode (if it breaks), because that would not be a good idea, expecially if that tap breaks off.

How did you attach the tap to the T handle? Looks good.

 

What tool did you use to gap them correctly. That is really wired that you buy plugs and each one do not have the same proper gap - are they hand make?

 

The way the rotunda tool works is you put the tap in by hand, then use the rotunda tool to extract it. I just made it so the tap will yank it out if one gets stuck.

I attached the tap to the handle by drilling the end of the rod on a lathe to the exact OD of the tap so there was a slip fit. It goes in about 3/4". Then I just TIG welded around it

I'm at the point of no return now. The car cooled off. The first plug was really tight. All 7 of the others made the initial 1/8-1/4 turn real easy, like butter. The last one broke free with a snap, only did that one about an 1/8th turn. I used a syringe with a small 8" long tube on the end. I put 3ccof ford carb cleaner in each spark plug. The syringe really contains the mess!!! Going to let it sit there for the next 12 hours, then I will go back to it first thing in the morning.

To gap my plugs I just used a .045 gauge pin because I don't have a gapper with me. The champions use the traditional style electrode so you can use any of those 1.99 spark plug disk gappers at the parts store. The electrode seems to bend real easy so they probably got out of spec by banging around during shipment. You should always gap a spark plug correctly anyway before you put it in a car, don't trust the manufacturer

 

After an hour I just went to check them. 2 came out real easy, the rest were tight and squeaky. the 2 that I did pull out had the worst carbon buildup I have ever seen. It looks like the factory tech used feces as antiseize on it. I'll let the rest sit until the morning !!!

 

I hope it works out for you. If that tap breaks off you will be pulling the head off. When I did the plugs on my F150 the tool took a fair bit of force to remove the broken bit. Enough force that just pulling on the center part of the tool would not be possible. You need the force of a jacking screw to do the job.

 

well lets hope that doesnt happen!

 

ok I got antsy and went and checked them again, I've got 7 out of 8 out now! The 8th one is still a bit stiff after almost 3 hours. I keep moving it back and forth to get the carb cleaner worked in. I'll just keep workin' it until it gets nice and loose (LOL). The carb cleaner definately does wick in because when they come out the shank part is all soaked and the carbon is partially dissolved.

I'll wait to put the plugs in when all 8 are out

 

This thread indicates that the change occured in Oct 07.
http://f150online.com/forums/showthread.php?t=320674

I found it by searching for the part number posted in the picture of the plug in the modularfords thread. Part is HJFS 24FP.

 

Done! They all came out after like 3 hours of soaking and working them out. Some went easier than others, just let the tighter ones soak longer They don't look that bad. I really could clean them, re-gap and put them back in. Other than the tons of carbon buildup they look fine.Not bad after 61k miles

I put the Champions in and put everything back together. In the morning I'll take a spin.

Oh yeah don't bother buying the special 3V socket tool if you already have a 9/16 spark plug socket. The Champion socket has a 5/8" hex, a different size. If you're permanently switching to the Champions you'll never use that tool again. Buy the one sized 5/8". I just used my Craftsman 5/8" spark plug socket and extension.

 

Glad it worked out for you. I haven't done my Mustang yet, only about 30k on it, but I am going to do it soon.

 

Maybe that is stupid question but here in Europe I first time hear about spark plug gaping specially the new ones. I even could not find any tool in shops here for spark plug gaping. I bought some set of 6 tools on ebay for 20$ whole set.

And a stupid question is. How do you adjust the gap when is not correct? With knife and hammer or those tools will allow to move it down or up?

 

use this

 

You guys keep using the wrong penetrating oil. Look for a product in an orange can named KROIL. No mater what the other claims are there is nothing like this stuff. Try it and you will wish you had been using it all along.

 

The Ford TSB used to say Kroil, but they switched it to Ford carb cleaner. The carb cleaner worked fine for me. You can get it at the dealership for $6

 

You are right.. I dont wrench for ford any more but a budy still dose.He told me ford wont pay for the kroil any more so he has to buy his own or use the carb cleaner.

 

youre right!! i just ordered two bottles of this from kroil. i think i paid $16.00 for it. Ford probably doesnt want to pay for somebody elses product (cany make the most profit this way)

 

Thanks for all the info Dustin.
I don't think I'll bother to switch this year, but maybe when I hit 15K mi. I'll do it.
Oh, and I've actually taken it out of the garage recently.

 

If you want help with it I'll come over and bring my nickel antiseize

 

Thanks, I'd appreciate it.
I've never needed any help to change plugs before, but on this car help will probably be a good thing.

 

You're better off doing it sooner than later. Just yank em, put the antizeize on and stick them back in