How the heck do you get an S197 to run 10s?
#41
http://www.cnlperformance.com/images/5.jpg
With longtube Headers, Cams, C&L Intake, C&L Racer CAI, Whipple Single blade TB, stall convertor, off road exhaust should put you upwars of 350ish to the wheels. I would say. The dyno sheet above it a straight shift and it put 372 to the ground.
Hope that helps.
With longtube Headers, Cams, C&L Intake, C&L Racer CAI, Whipple Single blade TB, stall convertor, off road exhaust should put you upwars of 350ish to the wheels. I would say. The dyno sheet above it a straight shift and it put 372 to the ground.
Hope that helps.
edit: auto tranny throwing the dyno off maybe?
Last edited by fdjizm; 12/4/09 at 09:04 PM.
#42
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The stock suspension is capable of a high 1.6X, and solid 1.7's, with MY power level, some 4.10s, a good tire, and a stick.
I drag race alot (going tommorow) and hang out with a group of Mustang friends. After seeing different setups, the only flaw that is a hit/miss is the wheel hop, stock.
The reason I can't do much better than 1.8's, both stock and with LCA/UCA. Is because my 3.55's don't let me get out of the hole as hard, than if I had 4.10's.
I think you're right on the money, Brian.
I drag race alot (going tommorow) and hang out with a group of Mustang friends. After seeing different setups, the only flaw that is a hit/miss is the wheel hop, stock.
The reason I can't do much better than 1.8's, both stock and with LCA/UCA. Is because my 3.55's don't let me get out of the hole as hard, than if I had 4.10's.
I think you're right on the money, Brian.
#43
http://www.cnlperformance.com/images/5.jpg
With longtube Headers, Cams, C&L Intake, C&L Racer CAI, Whipple Single blade TB, stall convertor, off road exhaust should put you upwars of 350ish to the wheels. I would say. The dyno sheet above it a straight shift and it put 372 to the ground.
Hope that helps.
With longtube Headers, Cams, C&L Intake, C&L Racer CAI, Whipple Single blade TB, stall convertor, off road exhaust should put you upwars of 350ish to the wheels. I would say. The dyno sheet above it a straight shift and it put 372 to the ground.
Hope that helps.
#44
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I'm still not understanding how. If my car hooks up perfectly how with no hop, will aftermarket parts make my car hook up more perfectly somehow? The aftermarket is great at fixing shortcomings and deficiencies with factory parts, but what if there isn't a shortcoming in the first place? Or, am I just really dense and missing something here?
Take a Shelby GT owner (from this forum), suspension upgrades from Shelby already, car performs better than a stock GT. Owner takes the struts/shocks that came from Shelby and replaced them for Koni adjustables. The performance went up compared to what it had when it came from Shelby. Was it performing perfectly fine it came from Shelby? YES. But, did it perform more perfectly somehow (as you said it) after the Konis went in? YES.
Nothing to be ashamed of with your numbers, but I'm pretty certain you have some untapped performance in that car of yours, no matter how perfectly you think/feel it performs right now.
#45
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Just a little!
Take a Shelby GT owner (from this forum), suspension upgrades from Shelby already, car performs better than a stock GT. Owner takes the struts/shocks that came from Shelby and replaced them for Koni adjustables. The performance went up compared to what it had when it came from Shelby. Was it performing perfectly fine it came from Shelby? YES. But, did it perform more perfectly somehow (as you said it) after the Konis went in? YES.
Nothing to be ashamed of with your numbers, but I'm pretty certain you have some untapped performance in that car of yours, no matter how perfectly you think/feel it performs right now.
Take a Shelby GT owner (from this forum), suspension upgrades from Shelby already, car performs better than a stock GT. Owner takes the struts/shocks that came from Shelby and replaced them for Koni adjustables. The performance went up compared to what it had when it came from Shelby. Was it performing perfectly fine it came from Shelby? YES. But, did it perform more perfectly somehow (as you said it) after the Konis went in? YES.
Nothing to be ashamed of with your numbers, but I'm pretty certain you have some untapped performance in that car of yours, no matter how perfectly you think/feel it performs right now.
#46
Koni's are definitely going to perform better in the twisties than the stock GT or SGT suspension, but that's not what I'm referring to. I am talking about drag racing, as is the OP, and the only performance I care about from the suspension is launching hard without hopping and having absolute traction with no wheelspin or bog. If my car hooks up hard and doesn't hop at the dragstrip on the factory suspension, what benefit does aftermarket suspension offer me?
Thats the one reason I bought my 08 was because of that article.
http://www.hotrod.com/projectbuild/1..._gt/index.html
#47
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Koni's are definitely going to perform better in the twisties than the stock GT or SGT suspension, but that's not what I'm referring to. I am talking about drag racing, as is the OP, and the only performance I care about from the suspension is launching hard without hopping and having absolute traction with no wheelspin or bog. If my car hooks up hard and doesn't hop at the dragstrip on the factory suspension, what benefit does aftermarket suspension offer me?
Here's an example of something that will perform better than stock, specific to 1/4 mile
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/2005MustangSUSPENSION.htm look for QA1 at the very bottom.
If the stock suspension would've been enough, the cobra jet would've had the GT suspension and not what it has, right? Anyways, food for thought. I've made my point, more than a couple of times already. Enjoy, either way you go (stock or aftermarket).
#48
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It's like the guys who buy an aftermarket throttle body for a stock or near-stock GT because it flows more (must be better, right?), not realizing that the factory throttle body is NOT a restriction in airflow until really big power levels.
Aftermarket does not always mean better. It still depends on the circumstances and intended use.
#49
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Oh, on a side not, I suppose my suspension isn't 100% stock. I had to install BMR's rear tunnel brace to be able to mount their rear (and front) driveshaft loops in my 07 GT to satisfy NHRA safety rules for my class at the dragstrip. Not sure what the rear tunnel brace is doing for my car, but probably reduces the flex or possibility of breaking the torque box (like I did in my '03 Mach 1 from repeated passes at the dragstrip).
BMR Fabrication makes some very high quality stuff, by the way.
BMR Fabrication makes some very high quality stuff, by the way.
#50
I'm still not understanding how. If my car hooks up perfectly how with no hop, will aftermarket parts make my car hook up more perfectly somehow? The aftermarket is great at fixing shortcomings and deficiencies with factory parts, but what if there isn't a shortcoming in the first place? Or, am I just really dense and missing something here?
Once I add enough more power, I suspect traction & hop issues will arise and I'll have to address suspension upgrades then, but in the mean time I just don't understand there to be any tangible benefit to replacing factory pieces.
Once I add enough more power, I suspect traction & hop issues will arise and I'll have to address suspension upgrades then, but in the mean time I just don't understand there to be any tangible benefit to replacing factory pieces.
#51
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Unless you add power you won't improve your short times with suspension stuff right now. If you have zero wheel hop and zero wheel spin there's nothing to improve really. I don't know if you said it earlier but what are your 60' times? If you're down to at least 1.7-1.8 you're doing pretty **** good.
#52
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I just ran a equal 1.795 last Sat. My best 60ft to date. (gotta love 6300rpm launches)
I missed 2nd, and missed my chance to be in the 12 sec club. (didn't clutch in all the way) Ran a 13.5@104
My 13.064 was with a lousy 1.895 60ft. Car is very consistent, just gotta get my launch down. With 3.55's I guess I found the secret to high 1.7's.
I missed 2nd, and missed my chance to be in the 12 sec club. (didn't clutch in all the way) Ran a 13.5@104
My 13.064 was with a lousy 1.895 60ft. Car is very consistent, just gotta get my launch down. With 3.55's I guess I found the secret to high 1.7's.
Last edited by ManEHawke; 12/11/09 at 08:39 PM.
#53
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I just ran a equal 1.795 last Sat. My best 60ft to date. (gotta love 6300rpm launches)
I missed 2nd, and missed my chance to be in the 12 sec club. (didn't clutch in all the way) Ran a 13.5@104
My 13.064 was with a lousy 1.895 60ft. Car is very consistent, just gotta get my launch down. With 3.55's I guess I found the secret to high 1.7's.
I missed 2nd, and missed my chance to be in the 12 sec club. (didn't clutch in all the way) Ran a 13.5@104
My 13.064 was with a lousy 1.895 60ft. Car is very consistent, just gotta get my launch down. With 3.55's I guess I found the secret to high 1.7's.
#54
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It will don't know how to explain it. lol Call Pauls High Performance and talk to them they can explain it better. Just ask them about their control arms they sale and ask why it would be a good upgrade. They can help you out. They are the first company to get the 05 GT in the 12's. N/A with just bolt-on's. Their best was a 12.31@112.76mph. All they had was suspension, 4.30's, their cold air intake, pulleys, Chris Johnson's tune and shifter brace. Not bad. Oh and ET Streets.
Thats the one reason I bought my 08 was because of that article.
http://www.hotrod.com/projectbuild/1..._gt/index.html
Thats the one reason I bought my 08 was because of that article.
http://www.hotrod.com/projectbuild/1..._gt/index.html
Bob
Guess I should have read the article before posting. You left 1 very important fact out...they took nearly 400# of weight out of the car and that accounts for the higher trap speed. If I took out 350+ pounds out of my Bullitt it might get into the mid 12's at 110 or so....
Last edited by 1fastbob; 12/20/09 at 08:36 AM.
#55
#56
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I just did the math to see how my car would run with 400#'s removed. My current weight yields 12.14 @ 113, but 400#'s lighter would yield an 11.70 @ 117+. 4 tenths and 4 mph. Just a reminded that weight is the enemy when talking performance.
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It is quite amazing that 400 lbs. will have that effect. I need to go on a diet to make the Bullitt faster and then I won't have to put any wrenches to it.
Last edited by 1fastbob; 12/21/09 at 04:33 PM.
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