I have found two types of Motor Mounts to replace the stockers; which one is better? Or if anybody has another suggestion please let me know...

1) http://www.pmpparts.com/index.php?ma...roducts_id=329

2) http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-u...mounts-05.html

 

Other than those, really the only other option I know of is the JDM Engineering modified Prothanes. They mill about 1/2" off the top of the mounts. This is said to drop the engine approximately 1/4" from the stock height (stock Prothanes apparently raise the engine about 1/4"). Doing that gives you a slightly lower C/G to improve performance, though I don't know if it's enough to notice on the street. Also, it increases hood clearance if you have a (or are planning a future) twinscrew.

The ones available at UPR look like they're a similar height to the JDMs (appear shorter than the Prothanes) at the price of the normal Prothane mounts. Those look like they might be a good way to go for the cost, and not ending up raising the engine.

 

Here's another option from Lethal that is adjustable... http://www.lethalperformance.com/05-...mounts-p-30158

 

TacoBill, and myself have the Prothanes. I think they're better quality than UPR. Then again I hate UPR because they steal everyone's products and make the equivalent of a chinese knock off from it. Back to the subject though I've had mine in for over a year and think it's one of the best mod's I've ever done. I love how the entire car torques over when you start the car now. Give's it that old school muscle feel.

BTW-Lethal Performances motor mounts are a good option too.

 

Evo. too
http://www.evoperform.com/shop/index...roducts_id=742

 

Thats exactly what I was looking for guys... Thank you so much. Quick question though? If I lower the motor w/ the mounts is that going to cause an issue w/ ground clearance??? Especially w/ LT's

 

If your going LT's you probably want to stay away from lowering the engine. From what I hear ground clearance is already a biatch with LT's so it's probably best to just go with regular motor mounts. If I remember correctly the Prothanes actually lifted the engine ever so slightly. Isn't visible to the naked eye but I could tell because of where my Shaker scoop sat.

 

Ok so thats what I was thinking.... So I guess Prothane may be the best option...

 

Prothane mounts are a nice mod and try throwing on a k-member brace with torque limiters while your at it.

 

If I could do it over again I would just do an aftermarket K-member instead of motor mounts. I'm running the prothanes and am happy with them, gives me a little cam shake at idle to not enough to be a pest though.

 

So a K-member can take the place of the Motor mounts as well???

 

You can buy the BMR K-member with motor mounts for around $500 stock height or lowered. It gives you a ton of clearance because of its tubular design and less weight which is always a plus. You can replace it the same time you do long tubes as well since if I recall (I did it when the motor was out) you have to drop the k-member to install anyways!

 

How much Xtra NVH do you get as opposed to stock???

 

This gentleman from England's thread started me along my journey of mods before I found this site.

It's a very interesting read from beginning to end. He tackles both the headers and K-member replacement in the blog.

http://www.mustang-gtcs.info/mods01.htm

Lots of pics and great info and then he stopped all of a sudden...

 

Your saying that if you had to do it over again you would go K-member; WHY???? B/c now I am seriously contemplating doing it but just want to hear why you would do things differently in Hinds sight???

 

Man you weren't messing around... That was a descent read, it's like the Tacobill across the Ocean. I just wish he would give his interpretation or experience following the installation of every mod...

So to my original question: I know it will add NVH; BUT HOW MUCH????

 

I'm sorry I can't answer that because I did not replace the K-member.

The NVH gained with prothane motor mounts is negligible. The biggest difference is that the engine does not twist in its mounts as much as it does with the stock mounts. Tons of people here are running prothane motor mounts with LT headers and the stock K-member. It's actually fairly rare for someone to change the K-member from what I've read in my time here.

I think I've only ever heard of one person that complained about the NVH from the mounts alone and actually removed them. Compare that too hundreds that put them in and rave about them. Plus they help with shifting a manual under torque. The engine does not twist as much therefore the transmission doesn't either. Our remote shifters are fixed to the body so when you get a tranny that's rotating ever so slightly under torque then the remote linkage doesn't necessarily line up the best under those 6000rpm 1-2 and 2-3 shifts.

Best thing to do would be to find someone that has a k-member and get their input. Best way to do that would be to maybe start a thread asking specifically for input and opinions from those people.

 

Hahaha, I guess I was hoping someone would come on here and just write exactly what I am looking for... New thread coming up...

BUT STILL LOOKING FOR INPUT ON THIS ONE

 

Wish I could tell you man but its sitting in a box calling my name!

 

So you bought a K-member???