How the heck do you get an S197 to run 10s?
11/29/09, 10:02 AM
#1
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How the heck do you get an S197 to run 10s?
What I am looking for is some steps to gradually get my car to run 12.4s. I see some people running 10s or even 9s. I know this takes a built motor and Forced Induction, but I would really like to see a bunch of examples in each ET range.
The car runs about a 13.8 stock. From there you do a CAI and Tune and you can get into the mid to low 13s. I want some feedback from SEVERAL individuals regarding their setups and their ETs.
I know I am probably not the only one with a near stock DD that just wants to do performance mods in steps.
The car runs about a 13.8 stock. From there you do a CAI and Tune and you can get into the mid to low 13s. I want some feedback from SEVERAL individuals regarding their setups and their ETs.
I know I am probably not the only one with a near stock DD that just wants to do performance mods in steps.
11/29/09, 10:25 AM
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11/29/09, 11:12 AM
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Here's the progression of my 07 GT automatic coupe after various mods, and how those mods helped at the drag strip....
I never ran my car at the track bone stock, but most 05-09 GT automatic coupes tend to average 13.9's @ 99 mph in the 1/4 mile.
My first mod was 4.10 gears, which required a handheld tuner to correct the speedometer. So, I set that tuner (DiabloSport Predator) to their canned 92 octane tune and ran 13.4's @ 102+ on the factory tires.
The next mod was a bigger stall converter (from Fuddle Racing). It flashed to 3,800 rpm's so the launch was much better, but tough on the stock tires (I really cooked the stock tires before lining up to melt them into submission). Car was running 13.2's @ 103+ when I could get traction. 60' times improved dramatically with the converter (1.8's vs 2.1's with the factory converter).
Drag radials made staging and launching easier and the runs got very consistent: 13.1's @ 103+.
Vortech V2 S-trim supercharger (non-intercooled) took some learning and tuning, and the stall converter now flashes to 4,800 rpm's with the extra power, but conservatively dyno tuned (daily driver) it intially ran 12.6's @ 110+
Swapped spark plugs for colder/copper FRPP 3V0 spark plugs, plus I added an oil seperator and PCV valve to keep oil vapor out of the intake tract. Had more dyno tuning done to adjust shift points & firmness, converter lock-up, etc. Car ran 12.3's @ 111+
Replaced the factory catalytic converters and H-pipe with an SLP X-pipe with high flow cats. Car now runs 12.1's @ 113+.
I never ran my car at the track bone stock, but most 05-09 GT automatic coupes tend to average 13.9's @ 99 mph in the 1/4 mile.
My first mod was 4.10 gears, which required a handheld tuner to correct the speedometer. So, I set that tuner (DiabloSport Predator) to their canned 92 octane tune and ran 13.4's @ 102+ on the factory tires.
The next mod was a bigger stall converter (from Fuddle Racing). It flashed to 3,800 rpm's so the launch was much better, but tough on the stock tires (I really cooked the stock tires before lining up to melt them into submission). Car was running 13.2's @ 103+ when I could get traction. 60' times improved dramatically with the converter (1.8's vs 2.1's with the factory converter).
Drag radials made staging and launching easier and the runs got very consistent: 13.1's @ 103+.
Vortech V2 S-trim supercharger (non-intercooled) took some learning and tuning, and the stall converter now flashes to 4,800 rpm's with the extra power, but conservatively dyno tuned (daily driver) it intially ran 12.6's @ 110+
Swapped spark plugs for colder/copper FRPP 3V0 spark plugs, plus I added an oil seperator and PCV valve to keep oil vapor out of the intake tract. Had more dyno tuning done to adjust shift points & firmness, converter lock-up, etc. Car ran 12.3's @ 111+
Replaced the factory catalytic converters and H-pipe with an SLP X-pipe with high flow cats. Car now runs 12.1's @ 113+.
11/29/09, 12:23 PM
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Here's the progression of my 07 GT automatic coupe after various mods, and how those mods helped at the drag strip....
I never ran my car at the track bone stock, but most 05-09 GT automatic coupes tend to average 13.9's @ 99 mph in the 1/4 mile.
My first mod was 4.10 gears, which required a handheld tuner to correct the speedometer. So, I set that tuner (DiabloSport Predator) to their canned 92 octane tune and ran 13.4's @ 102+ on the factory tires.
The next mod was a bigger stall converter (from Fuddle Racing). It flashed to 3,800 rpm's so the launch was much better, but tough on the stock tires (I really cooked the stock tires before lining up to melt them into submission). Car was running 13.2's @ 103+ when I could get traction. 60' times improved dramatically with the converter (1.8's vs 2.1's with the factory converter).
Drag radials made staging and launching easier and the runs got very consistent: 13.1's @ 103+.
Vortech V2 S-trim supercharger (non-intercooled) took some learning and tuning, and the stall converter now flashes to 4,800 rpm's with the extra power, but conservatively dyno tuned (daily driver) it intially ran 12.6's @ 110+
Swapped spark plugs for colder/copper FRPP 3V0 spark plugs, plus I added an oil seperator and PCV valve to keep oil vapor out of the intake tract. Had more dyno tuning done to adjust shift points & firmness, converter lock-up, etc. Car ran 12.3's @ 111+
Replaced the factory catalytic converters and H-pipe with an SLP X-pipe with high flow cats. Car now runs 12.1's @ 113+.
I never ran my car at the track bone stock, but most 05-09 GT automatic coupes tend to average 13.9's @ 99 mph in the 1/4 mile.
My first mod was 4.10 gears, which required a handheld tuner to correct the speedometer. So, I set that tuner (DiabloSport Predator) to their canned 92 octane tune and ran 13.4's @ 102+ on the factory tires.
The next mod was a bigger stall converter (from Fuddle Racing). It flashed to 3,800 rpm's so the launch was much better, but tough on the stock tires (I really cooked the stock tires before lining up to melt them into submission). Car was running 13.2's @ 103+ when I could get traction. 60' times improved dramatically with the converter (1.8's vs 2.1's with the factory converter).
Drag radials made staging and launching easier and the runs got very consistent: 13.1's @ 103+.
Vortech V2 S-trim supercharger (non-intercooled) took some learning and tuning, and the stall converter now flashes to 4,800 rpm's with the extra power, but conservatively dyno tuned (daily driver) it intially ran 12.6's @ 110+
Swapped spark plugs for colder/copper FRPP 3V0 spark plugs, plus I added an oil seperator and PCV valve to keep oil vapor out of the intake tract. Had more dyno tuning done to adjust shift points & firmness, converter lock-up, etc. Car ran 12.3's @ 111+
Replaced the factory catalytic converters and H-pipe with an SLP X-pipe with high flow cats. Car now runs 12.1's @ 113+.
11/29/09, 12:36 PM
#5
Team Mustang Source
If you want to know about making your car fast and getting the results you want I say go to this site. They are hard core Mustang fanatics.
http://s197forum.com/forum/
http://s197forum.com/forum/
11/29/09, 01:29 PM
#6
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That's cool to do it steps, makes every visit to the drag strip fun. I started at a 14.1@100 stock. I have not run at my current power, but with the extra 15hp and 15TQ, I should be a high 12.9ish or so. (dec 5th stay tuned)
From this step if I wanted a 12.4, I'd probably need to do cams primarily. The C&L intake and some LT headers. An aluminum driveshaft, and go see what she does then.
4.10's would help alot, especially if you're manual and running a drag tire. Right now my 60fts are in the 1.8s, and I can drop to 1.7's or slightly better easy. This alone can get the 12.9 to a 12.8 or so.
From this step if I wanted a 12.4, I'd probably need to do cams primarily. The C&L intake and some LT headers. An aluminum driveshaft, and go see what she does then.
4.10's would help alot, especially if you're manual and running a drag tire. Right now my 60fts are in the 1.8s, and I can drop to 1.7's or slightly better easy. This alone can get the 12.9 to a 12.8 or so.
11/29/09, 04:00 PM
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Last November our car ran 10.0 flat at 134-136 mph. Vid shows car launching at 11 lbs boost, then 16 lbs, then at the end 22 lbs. Car started running badly last November, o even though ETs were improving, motor was getting ready to go booooooom.
Set up from last November
76mm turbo at 22 lbs boost
302 stroker, stage II heads, cams
4r70w, 3 speed automatic with full-manual valve-body, transbrake + electronic overdrive
triple fuel pumps and megadriver (previously had the GT500 duals)
9 inch rear, spool, 4:10 gears
10 point NHRA cert cage
15 inch Bogarts + slicks, skinnies
Set up now
76mm turbo at 22 lbs boost (target 25-27 lbs)
rebuilt 302 stroker with custom intake manifold
stage III heads and cams
powerglide, 2 speed automatic + transbrake
9 inch, spool, 3:50 gears
same wheels, same cage
other changes
a/c deleted, sound system deleled, antennae deleted, rear center brake light deleted
weight reduction of 200+ lbs
http://s149.photobucket.com/albums/s...nt=transb4.flv
Set up from last November
76mm turbo at 22 lbs boost
302 stroker, stage II heads, cams
4r70w, 3 speed automatic with full-manual valve-body, transbrake + electronic overdrive
triple fuel pumps and megadriver (previously had the GT500 duals)
9 inch rear, spool, 4:10 gears
10 point NHRA cert cage
15 inch Bogarts + slicks, skinnies
Set up now
76mm turbo at 22 lbs boost (target 25-27 lbs)
rebuilt 302 stroker with custom intake manifold
stage III heads and cams
powerglide, 2 speed automatic + transbrake
9 inch, spool, 3:50 gears
same wheels, same cage
other changes
a/c deleted, sound system deleled, antennae deleted, rear center brake light deleted
weight reduction of 200+ lbs
http://s149.photobucket.com/albums/s...nt=transb4.flv
11/30/09, 01:24 PM
#10
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I never ran my car stock, but with the JLT intake, bmr lower control arms and a B&M short throw shifter I was running 13.2's and 13.3's on my stock pirelli's. I just had my motor turned into a 9.3:1 compression 302 stroker and with the spec 3+ clutch in I can't hook for the life of me so until I get drag radials I'm only seeing 13.6's now.
Over the winter I'll be doing supporting mods for a blower hopefully later next year so I'm hoping to get into the mid 12's before I get the blower on the car, then it's game on!
Over the winter I'll be doing supporting mods for a blower hopefully later next year so I'm hoping to get into the mid 12's before I get the blower on the car, then it's game on!
11/30/09, 02:38 PM
#11
My 08 GT has delete plates, underdrive pulleys, JLT, magnaflow highflow cat x pipe, pypes axle back, 3.90 gears and a Roush short shifter. I went Alabama international dragway in Steele Alabama saturday and raced my car. My car only has 4400 miles on it and I was on the stock street tires that came on the car. My first pass was a 13.25 letting off because of wheel hop. I went again and it wheel hopped so I let off and ran a 13.40. I went the wrong way so I ran it again. This time leaveing not as hard and went a 13.12 with a 2.08 60 ft. I was pretty happy but then I thought I could get high 12's it I could leave better. I let the car cool off for about 1 hour and ran it again. I left at 1200 or so RPMs and it cut a 1.95 short time a 8.41@85 1/8 mile and a 12.97@107 1/4 mile. Thats was right after I got the car.
I dynoed it on the car on the same tune that I ran them times with and I made 298 to the wheels. I have just added a C&L Intake to the car and on the dyno it picked up 7 peak HP over the stock intake with delete plates. At 5700 rpms it picked up 10 rwhp over the delete plates. I went to the track on ET streets and my car ran a 8.19@84 mph with the C&L. It was chirping the tires about 40 ft out and it cut a 1.73 60 ft.
I have a set of cams I'm fixing to install in my car and I will let you know what is pickes up then.
I dynoed it on the car on the same tune that I ran them times with and I made 298 to the wheels. I have just added a C&L Intake to the car and on the dyno it picked up 7 peak HP over the stock intake with delete plates. At 5700 rpms it picked up 10 rwhp over the delete plates. I went to the track on ET streets and my car ran a 8.19@84 mph with the C&L. It was chirping the tires about 40 ft out and it cut a 1.73 60 ft.
I have a set of cams I'm fixing to install in my car and I will let you know what is pickes up then.
12/1/09, 09:09 AM
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What I am looking for is some steps to gradually get my car to run 12.4s. I see some people running 10s or even 9s. I know this takes a built motor and Forced Induction, but I would really like to see a bunch of examples in each ET range.
The car runs about a 13.8 stock. From there you do a CAI and Tune and you can get into the mid to low 13s. I want some feedback from SEVERAL individuals regarding their setups and their ETs.
I know I am probably not the only one with a near stock DD that just wants to do performance mods in steps.
The car runs about a 13.8 stock. From there you do a CAI and Tune and you can get into the mid to low 13s. I want some feedback from SEVERAL individuals regarding their setups and their ETs.
I know I am probably not the only one with a near stock DD that just wants to do performance mods in steps.
12/1/09, 10:42 AM
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It's not just engine, suspension is crucial...
Lot of n/a racers out there getting better times than some with blowers etc (and way more horses) , because they have paid a lot more attention to suspension, gearing, weight transfer, traction etc. I didn't put any of our suspension mods etc...but it's really as important as power.
Last edited by forensicsteve; 12/1/09 at 10:43 AM.
12/1/09, 01:00 PM
#14
+1
Lot of n/a racers out there getting better times than some with blowers etc (and way more horses) , because they have paid a lot more attention to suspension, gearing, weight transfer, traction etc. I didn't put any of our suspension mods etc...but it's really as important as power.
Lot of n/a racers out there getting better times than some with blowers etc (and way more horses) , because they have paid a lot more attention to suspension, gearing, weight transfer, traction etc. I didn't put any of our suspension mods etc...but it's really as important as power.
I thinks 10 are with in reach. Bolt ons, cams, 4.30's or bigger gears, suspension, slickes and a lot of Nitrous. At least 150 or so.
12/1/09, 02:09 PM
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There is a dark side to traction however.
When the car starts to hook really well under a lot of power...that's when more things start to break. You know when our track is prepped really really well...lots more folk lose transmissions, rearends, diffs etc
Imagine the stress being applied to our car's rearend at launch. Look at the tires rippling.
When the car starts to hook really well under a lot of power...that's when more things start to break. You know when our track is prepped really really well...lots more folk lose transmissions, rearends, diffs etc
Imagine the stress being applied to our car's rearend at launch. Look at the tires rippling.
Last edited by forensicsteve; 12/1/09 at 02:15 PM.
12/1/09, 03:26 PM
#16
There is a dark side to traction however.
When the car starts to hook really well under a lot of power...that's when more things start to break. You know when our track is prepped really really well...lots more folk lose transmissions, rearends, diffs etc
Imagine the stress being applied to our car's rearend at launch. Look at the tires rippling.
When the car starts to hook really well under a lot of power...that's when more things start to break. You know when our track is prepped really really well...lots more folk lose transmissions, rearends, diffs etc
Imagine the stress being applied to our car's rearend at launch. Look at the tires rippling.
12/1/09, 03:31 PM
#17
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I keep hearing that suspension is critical for lowering ET's, but so far I've kept my suspension 100% factory stock. Tough to spend money on parts that don't add power when I don't fully understand how aftermarket suspension is better than the factory suspension (not being sarcastic here - I really don't know).
I'm only putting down 364 rwhp and race weight is a heavy 3650 lbs with me in the car, but with drag radials I'm averaging 1.8's to the sixty foot mark, 7.7's @ 90 in the 1/8 mile, and 12.1's @ 113 in the 1/4 mile. My stock suspension seems to transfer weight pretty well and the car dead hooks every time. What specific suspension parts would yield what specific benefit for my '07 GT?
I'm only putting down 364 rwhp and race weight is a heavy 3650 lbs with me in the car, but with drag radials I'm averaging 1.8's to the sixty foot mark, 7.7's @ 90 in the 1/8 mile, and 12.1's @ 113 in the 1/4 mile. My stock suspension seems to transfer weight pretty well and the car dead hooks every time. What specific suspension parts would yield what specific benefit for my '07 GT?
12/1/09, 04:24 PM
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I keep hearing that suspension is critical for lowering ET's, but so far I've kept my suspension 100% factory stock. Tough to spend money on parts that don't add power when I don't fully understand how aftermarket suspension is better than the factory suspension (not being sarcastic here - I really don't know).
I'm only putting down 364 rwhp and race weight is a heavy 3650 lbs with me in the car, but with drag radials I'm averaging 1.8's to the sixty foot mark, 7.7's @ 90 in the 1/8 mile, and 12.1's @ 113 in the 1/4 mile. My stock suspension seems to transfer weight pretty well and the car dead hooks every time. What specific suspension parts would yield what specific benefit for my '07 GT?
I'm only putting down 364 rwhp and race weight is a heavy 3650 lbs with me in the car, but with drag radials I'm averaging 1.8's to the sixty foot mark, 7.7's @ 90 in the 1/8 mile, and 12.1's @ 113 in the 1/4 mile. My stock suspension seems to transfer weight pretty well and the car dead hooks every time. What specific suspension parts would yield what specific benefit for my '07 GT?
12/1/09, 08:37 PM
#20
I wheel hopped my stock suspension to a 1.95 60 ft. With my new suspension it don't wheel hop now. It does better on ET Streets. I haven;t been to the track to try out the new suspension with my stock street tires. So I don;t know how it does at the track with the new UCA/LCAs. On the street the new arms seem to hook pretty hard on the street with street tires.