Engine rods have 450 rwhp Limit?
#21
Legacy TMS Member
Joined: January 9, 2005
Posts: 6,982
Likes: 6
From: New Carlisle, Ohio (20 miles north of Dayton)
New shortblock being built by MMR as we speak.
Death ocurred on April 15th.
I screwed up... motor went waaay lean and went poof. Nuff said about that.
- New production Ford aluminum block
- 4340 Forged 3.543 stroke Cobra Crankshaft w/micro polished journals
- 4340 5.933 MMR 800HP H-beam Rods w/ARP rod bolts
- Forged Manley pistons 3.552 Bore size (9.0:1)
- Coated Pistons (ceramic dome/teflon skirt)
- Speed Pro file fit rings
- Clevite tri-metal Rod Main bearings
- ARP Mainstuds
Death ocurred on April 15th.
I screwed up... motor went waaay lean and went poof. Nuff said about that.
Looks like you are coming back strong Bill
They say "lean is mean" but as you and I know it can surely cost you some green!!
Scott
Last edited by 70MACH1OWNER; 4/29/08 at 05:02 PM.
#24
#25
Install of the non-cooled Vortech kit went in smooth. Part of the Brenspeed kit included the KB Boost-A-Pump. The included instructions from KB sucks big time.. wrong reference instructions, crappy pics of a SN95 install, and nothing specific to the S197. I searched for any installed pics/instructions here on TMS and other Forums, but all I found was 'I think it's in the trunk area'....'sorry, no pics, I didn't install it', etc., etc.
Soooo, in my infinite wisdom, I decided to go for 1st start without the BAP hooked up. I thought I was safe being the boost switch (for the BAP) doesn't activate until ~2500 rpm's or so. 1st start went well, all sounded great.
Then (here comes the bad part), I decided to have my mechanic take it out for a test drive to check the drivability, boost, and overall integrity of the installation.
It was reported that it ran fast and hard and that nothing sounded unusual or any detonation detected. I think the damage was already done at this point.
2nd test drive, just a mellow drive by my mechanic. Engine under slight load going up a hill, accidental mishift from 1 to 5, then a loud clunck sound, rod knock.
3rd and final test drive by me. Sounded like the knocking sound was coming from the bellhousing. Thinking that it's the clutch/flywheel, I took it out for a spin to check gear engagement and whatever else I notice with the clutch. Got to around 4500 rpm's in 3rd gear, and all hell broke loose. Sounds of rattling metal from the bottom end, shut down the engine immediately, and coasted to the side of the road. And that was all she wrote.
I say that this was all my doing because I failed to hook up the BAP, got impatient (ie. excited), gave my mechanic the green light to test it out, and lastly failed to recognize a rod knock sound.
Lessons learned.
#26
New shortblock being built by MMR as we speak.
Death ocurred on April 15th.
I screwed up... motor went waaay lean and went poof. Nuff said about that.
- New production Ford aluminum block
- 4340 Forged 3.543 stroke Cobra Crankshaft w/micro polished journals
- 4340 5.933 MMR 800HP H-beam Rods w/ARP rod bolts
- Forged Manley pistons 3.552 Bore size (9.0:1)
- Coated Pistons (ceramic dome/teflon skirt)
- Speed Pro file fit rings
- Clevite tri-metal Rod Main bearings
- ARP Mainstuds
Death ocurred on April 15th.
I screwed up... motor went waaay lean and went poof. Nuff said about that.
#27
TacoBill
Sorry to hear about your mishap. Should be a lessons learned for all others to not take a short cut, even if the installation details are flakey. That's an expensive lesson. I'm sure you will be a lot more careful, because even a expensive rotating assy can be destroyed if the rest of the system is not properly completed.
Sorry to hear about your mishap. Should be a lessons learned for all others to not take a short cut, even if the installation details are flakey. That's an expensive lesson. I'm sure you will be a lot more careful, because even a expensive rotating assy can be destroyed if the rest of the system is not properly completed.
#30
I just had my car re-tuned by James at RWTD. What an amazing tune! The car put down 474/412. Like others said, the tune is key. Also making sure that you have the proper injectors and fuel pump makes a difference. A wideband A/F gauge should be standard equipment with any forced induction install. Keep and eye on it!
#31
BN
Bill,
thanks for sharing that with us. I know I've done some stupid things out of impatience. Sounds like you're rebuilding better, stronger, and faster than before. Best of luck with that.
Thanks Rob.. I really feel like a ******* because I could've prevented this catastrophy.
Install of the non-cooled Vortech kit went in smooth. Part of the Brenspeed kit included the KB Boost-A-Pump. The included instructions from KB sucks big time.. wrong reference instructions, crappy pics of a SN95 install, and nothing specific to the S197. I searched for any installed pics/instructions here on TMS and other Forums, but all I found was 'I think it's in the trunk area'....'sorry, no pics, I didn't install it', etc., etc.
Soooo, in my infinite wisdom, I decided to go for 1st start without the BAP hooked up. I thought I was safe being the boost switch (for the BAP) doesn't activate until ~2500 rpm's or so. 1st start went well, all sounded great.
Then (here comes the bad part), I decided to have my mechanic take it out for a test drive to check the drivability, boost, and overall integrity of the installation.
It was reported that it ran fast and hard and that nothing sounded unusual or any detonation detected. I think the damage was already done at this point.
2nd test drive, just a mellow drive by my mechanic. Engine under slight load going up a hill, accidental mishift from 1 to 5, then a loud clunck sound, rod knock.
3rd and final test drive by me. Sounded like the knocking sound was coming from the bellhousing. Thinking that it's the clutch/flywheel, I took it out for a spin to check gear engagement and whatever else I notice with the clutch. Got to around 4500 rpm's in 3rd gear, and all hell broke loose. Sounds of rattling metal from the bottom end, shut down the engine immediately, and coasted to the side of the road. And that was all she wrote.
I say that this was all my doing because I failed to hook up the BAP, got impatient (ie. excited), gave my mechanic the green light to test it out, and lastly failed to recognize a rod knock sound.
Lessons learned.
Install of the non-cooled Vortech kit went in smooth. Part of the Brenspeed kit included the KB Boost-A-Pump. The included instructions from KB sucks big time.. wrong reference instructions, crappy pics of a SN95 install, and nothing specific to the S197. I searched for any installed pics/instructions here on TMS and other Forums, but all I found was 'I think it's in the trunk area'....'sorry, no pics, I didn't install it', etc., etc.
Soooo, in my infinite wisdom, I decided to go for 1st start without the BAP hooked up. I thought I was safe being the boost switch (for the BAP) doesn't activate until ~2500 rpm's or so. 1st start went well, all sounded great.
Then (here comes the bad part), I decided to have my mechanic take it out for a test drive to check the drivability, boost, and overall integrity of the installation.
It was reported that it ran fast and hard and that nothing sounded unusual or any detonation detected. I think the damage was already done at this point.
2nd test drive, just a mellow drive by my mechanic. Engine under slight load going up a hill, accidental mishift from 1 to 5, then a loud clunck sound, rod knock.
3rd and final test drive by me. Sounded like the knocking sound was coming from the bellhousing. Thinking that it's the clutch/flywheel, I took it out for a spin to check gear engagement and whatever else I notice with the clutch. Got to around 4500 rpm's in 3rd gear, and all hell broke loose. Sounds of rattling metal from the bottom end, shut down the engine immediately, and coasted to the side of the road. And that was all she wrote.
I say that this was all my doing because I failed to hook up the BAP, got impatient (ie. excited), gave my mechanic the green light to test it out, and lastly failed to recognize a rod knock sound.
Lessons learned.
thanks for sharing that with us. I know I've done some stupid things out of impatience. Sounds like you're rebuilding better, stronger, and faster than before. Best of luck with that.
#32
Sorry to hear about your motor Bill. It really bums me out that a guy who has done so much to help all of us out with great write-ups has been the victim of bad instructional material.
I want to share something that I recently learned about the GT fuel pump system:
The fuel pump is actually up to the task of providing plenty of fuel pressure up to and beyond 475 rwhp. the shortcoming of the system is the wire feeding the fuel pump control module. this wire is a 16 gauge wire which comes from the kinetic energy fuel cutoff switch. this wire can't feed the fuel pump the current it needs to perform in a supercharged car. I recently had a problem with my fuel pump duty cycle maxing out at wide open throttle, and a friend told me about a wiring mod that can give the fuel pump the extra power it needs. this mod consists of a relay, some spade connectors, and about 30 feet of 10 gauge wire.
you basically run 10 gauge wire from the battery back to the trunk and using the white wire from the fuel cutoff circuit you wire in a relay which uses the fuel cutoff circuit as a trigger, and provides current straight from the battery into the fuel pump control module. you then replace the black and pink wire from the fuel pump control module to the fuel pump with 10 gauge wire as well. this allows the fuel pump to get all the current it needs when it needs it. this reduced my fuel pump duty cycle by about 10% while also allowing the fuel pump to draw less current and pump more fuel. no need for a boost a pump at all.
I will take pics and post a how to on this tommorow.
I want to share something that I recently learned about the GT fuel pump system:
The fuel pump is actually up to the task of providing plenty of fuel pressure up to and beyond 475 rwhp. the shortcoming of the system is the wire feeding the fuel pump control module. this wire is a 16 gauge wire which comes from the kinetic energy fuel cutoff switch. this wire can't feed the fuel pump the current it needs to perform in a supercharged car. I recently had a problem with my fuel pump duty cycle maxing out at wide open throttle, and a friend told me about a wiring mod that can give the fuel pump the extra power it needs. this mod consists of a relay, some spade connectors, and about 30 feet of 10 gauge wire.
you basically run 10 gauge wire from the battery back to the trunk and using the white wire from the fuel cutoff circuit you wire in a relay which uses the fuel cutoff circuit as a trigger, and provides current straight from the battery into the fuel pump control module. you then replace the black and pink wire from the fuel pump control module to the fuel pump with 10 gauge wire as well. this allows the fuel pump to get all the current it needs when it needs it. this reduced my fuel pump duty cycle by about 10% while also allowing the fuel pump to draw less current and pump more fuel. no need for a boost a pump at all.
I will take pics and post a how to on this tommorow.
#34
Wow Bill. Sorry to see that. I was thinking of staying NA after seeing that! The major mods might roughly be long tube headers/cia/torque converter/gears/cams/ported heads/control motion plates. Don't think I'll be at 450 rwhp with this set up. Still, even if I was close, Bill's pics make me nervous...
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robjh22
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9/8/15 12:31 PM