Calling ALL with Modified Mustangs
#61
Join Date: July 12, 2004
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I wish I had known about these 2 items before I started modding!
#62
well, they work well, but they are not as well engineered as the other products. Like a panhard bar as opposed to a Pinion Snubber. Which one looks better? But depending on the versions, they are about the same for performance. But if you're going all out on new control arms and all, might as well get the panhard bar too.
Then again, later on when he put in the Koni Reds, man that thing transformed into a carver.
169, it's all part of the game, I still don't know nearly as much as I wish I did.
Then again, later on when he put in the Koni Reds, man that thing transformed into a carver.
169, it's all part of the game, I still don't know nearly as much as I wish I did.
#63
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Join Date: October 11, 2004
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Originally posted by Colvindesign@April 28, 2005, 8:45 AM
Mikem, I have to agree about the bag, also what helps with that is a pinion snubber, we hooked up my buddy's air bag to have the filler nozzle in the place of one of the license plate screws, that way it was easily accessable and with a rubber nipple over it, no one ever noticed. That was on his 92LX but I don't know how hard that would be on a 05. Before and after numbers were night and day after those mods, but he also had subframes and torque boxes welded in at the same time.
Mikem, I have to agree about the bag, also what helps with that is a pinion snubber, we hooked up my buddy's air bag to have the filler nozzle in the place of one of the license plate screws, that way it was easily accessable and with a rubber nipple over it, no one ever noticed. That was on his 92LX but I don't know how hard that would be on a 05. Before and after numbers were night and day after those mods, but he also had subframes and torque boxes welded in at the same time.
Did some homework...looks like previous gen Mustang had a pinion snubber?
Does the '05 not have one? Or is it inadequate??
#64
Join Date: July 12, 2004
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Is there any benefit at all of the panhard bar when your drag racing? I always thought it was intended more for road/track racing.
#66
I'm thinking of the panhard bar that mounts to the axle, then in front of it, longitudinal to the car, so it keeps the axle from twisting (front of the pumpkin trying to turn up as car launches), not the type that mounts along the axle to keep it from moving side to side. It may have another name as well (and no, not thinking traction bars).
Not sure if the 05 has one (pinion snubber), but if a car has one stock, it is probably rubber (practically useless for this application) and probably not set at the optimal position/height. There is a certian amount of movement to allow for, but setting it at the optimal height for drag racing, you will feel a slight bump (like a light tap with a rubber mallet to the floor pan) during slighty aggressive take off (3k launch).
Not sure if the 05 has one (pinion snubber), but if a car has one stock, it is probably rubber (practically useless for this application) and probably not set at the optimal position/height. There is a certian amount of movement to allow for, but setting it at the optimal height for drag racing, you will feel a slight bump (like a light tap with a rubber mallet to the floor pan) during slighty aggressive take off (3k launch).
#68
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Originally posted by Colvindesign@April 29, 2005, 11:37 AM
I'm thinking of the panhard bar that mounts to the axle, then in front of it, longitudinal to the car, so it keeps the axle from twisting (front of the pumpkin trying to turn up as car launches), not the type that mounts along the axle to keep it from moving side to side. It may have another name as well (and no, not thinking traction bars).
I'm thinking of the panhard bar that mounts to the axle, then in front of it, longitudinal to the car, so it keeps the axle from twisting (front of the pumpkin trying to turn up as car launches), not the type that mounts along the axle to keep it from moving side to side. It may have another name as well (and no, not thinking traction bars).
#69
Join Date: February 20, 2005
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Ok guys listen up.The air bag in right rear spring does the same as the panhard rod.It offsets the twisting of rearend.When launching a car the body twists the opposite of engine rotation wich is why the car wants to lift left front and squish right rear.Looks cool off the line but it takes time to twist the car and unloads the right rear tire wich causes wheel hop.Airbag stops slows this and pushes right rear tire firmly down.
Also, the rear end is going to want to pivot up wich is were the pinion snubber acts as like Ladder Bars would provide. Our cars do have one wich most cars do.Its the distance before the pinion actualy hits it is what we want to adjust.Less gap means more bite and less twist.You dont want a solid one for a street car.Rubber definately unless you want to hear a huge bang under your car.
Panhard rod does do what the airbag does but i find the airbag more user freindly.You can add or remove air for tunning.
Also, the rear end is going to want to pivot up wich is were the pinion snubber acts as like Ladder Bars would provide. Our cars do have one wich most cars do.Its the distance before the pinion actualy hits it is what we want to adjust.Less gap means more bite and less twist.You dont want a solid one for a street car.Rubber definately unless you want to hear a huge bang under your car.
Panhard rod does do what the airbag does but i find the airbag more user freindly.You can add or remove air for tunning.
#70
Join Date: February 20, 2005
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Perfect street/strip setup.My opinion and experience.
1 Remove frontswaybar.
2 90/10 front shocks/struts-50/50 rear shocks
3 Engine strap/chain or solid mounts.
4 Pinion snubber rubber or adjustable solid(Steeda)
5 Right rear Airbag or both if large slicks are used.
I have worked on and raced many cars that have used this simple setup and one ran 8.66 at 158MPH with 1.18 60 fts on 10.5 slicks.
Under $400.00 will do most of this.Put your money were it counts and be creative.No one is going to lay under your car and pick apart things that are not chrome,anodized gold with logos all over.I remember shopping at Home Depot for most of our ram air,motor straps and chains with adjustable turnbuckles,and pinion snubbers.Made one from a hockey puck .
1 Remove frontswaybar.
2 90/10 front shocks/struts-50/50 rear shocks
3 Engine strap/chain or solid mounts.
4 Pinion snubber rubber or adjustable solid(Steeda)
5 Right rear Airbag or both if large slicks are used.
I have worked on and raced many cars that have used this simple setup and one ran 8.66 at 158MPH with 1.18 60 fts on 10.5 slicks.
Under $400.00 will do most of this.Put your money were it counts and be creative.No one is going to lay under your car and pick apart things that are not chrome,anodized gold with logos all over.I remember shopping at Home Depot for most of our ram air,motor straps and chains with adjustable turnbuckles,and pinion snubbers.Made one from a hockey puck .
#71
Join Date: February 20, 2005
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Have been so busy with my bussiness, that Red is just sitting in garage.Hope to get back to her soon so i can post some more Dragtimes and mods.
#73
Originally posted by 300HPGT@May 26, 2005, 12:10 AM
baseline: 265.4 hp 284.9 torque SAE
69.4*F 29.36 in.hg. 550FT ELV
C&L, Predator 91 tune, Magnaflow cat back:
295.1 hp 310.7 ftlb torque SAE
75.7*F 29.30 in.hg. 550FT ELV
baseline: 265.4 hp 284.9 torque SAE
69.4*F 29.36 in.hg. 550FT ELV
C&L, Predator 91 tune, Magnaflow cat back:
295.1 hp 310.7 ftlb torque SAE
75.7*F 29.30 in.hg. 550FT ELV
#74
Originally posted by GOFISCH@May 26, 2005, 6:56 AM
Thats impressive. Which dyno make was it? Auto or manual tranny?
Thats impressive. Which dyno make was it? Auto or manual tranny?
It was a Dyno Jet not a mustang dyno or dynamic.
#75
Well Fellas here it is. I was not impressed at first but after talkling with the tech at the dyno he said with the high altitude that is what he expected.
btw: I have a 5 spd with stock gears.
Baseline: 263 hp (taken from anther 05) 282 torque? SAE
88*F 6000FT ELV
JLT, Predator DTP 91 tune, SLP Loudmouth cat back:
273.0 hp 287.8 ftlb torque SAE
88*F 6000FT ELV
Brent from DTP Tuning was a great help. My first run we figured out I was running 11.6 a/f ratio (because of the altitude) and we then increased it to 12.7 to get the numbers I show above.
Cheers_Jay
btw: I have a 5 spd with stock gears.
Baseline: 263 hp (taken from anther 05) 282 torque? SAE
88*F 6000FT ELV
JLT, Predator DTP 91 tune, SLP Loudmouth cat back:
273.0 hp 287.8 ftlb torque SAE
88*F 6000FT ELV
Brent from DTP Tuning was a great help. My first run we figured out I was running 11.6 a/f ratio (because of the altitude) and we then increased it to 12.7 to get the numbers I show above.
Cheers_Jay
#76
Originally posted by mikem@April 29, 2005, 7:23 PM
Ok guys listen up.The air bag in right rear spring does the same as the panhard rod.It offsets the twisting of rearend.When launching a car the body twists the opposite of engine rotation wich is why the car wants to lift left front and squish right rear.Looks cool off the line but it takes time to twist the car and unloads the right rear tire wich causes wheel hop.Airbag stops slows this and pushes right rear tire firmly down.
Also, the rear end is going to want to pivot up wich is were the pinion snubber acts as like Ladder Bars would provide. Our cars do have one wich most cars do.Its the distance before the pinion actualy hits it is what we want to adjust.Less gap means more bite and less twist.You dont want a solid one for a street car.Rubber definately unless you want to hear a huge bang under your car.
Panhard rod does do what the airbag does but i find the airbag more user freindly.You can add or remove air for tunning.
Ok guys listen up.The air bag in right rear spring does the same as the panhard rod.It offsets the twisting of rearend.When launching a car the body twists the opposite of engine rotation wich is why the car wants to lift left front and squish right rear.Looks cool off the line but it takes time to twist the car and unloads the right rear tire wich causes wheel hop.Airbag stops slows this and pushes right rear tire firmly down.
Also, the rear end is going to want to pivot up wich is were the pinion snubber acts as like Ladder Bars would provide. Our cars do have one wich most cars do.Its the distance before the pinion actualy hits it is what we want to adjust.Less gap means more bite and less twist.You dont want a solid one for a street car.Rubber definately unless you want to hear a huge bang under your car.
Panhard rod does do what the airbag does but i find the airbag more user freindly.You can add or remove air for tunning.
Listen to the master he knows what he is talking about. And im not being sarcastic. :worship:
#78
MANUAL, HC trap removed
Baseline: Dyno Dynamics, 78F, 283.1hp (seemed a bit high)
With mods: Dynojet, 95F, 429.0hp, 390.8tq
GAIN: 145.9hp -ATI Procharger, intercooled, 9psi pulley, Diablo Predator 91 octane tune
Was running really fat around 10:1 a/f ratio at WOT, should be able to squeak out some more hp when I lean it out, but had some issues with the predator tuner. Only ran the engine to 6000rpm and saw 8 psi at the manifold.
Baseline: Dyno Dynamics, 78F, 283.1hp (seemed a bit high)
With mods: Dynojet, 95F, 429.0hp, 390.8tq
GAIN: 145.9hp -ATI Procharger, intercooled, 9psi pulley, Diablo Predator 91 octane tune
Was running really fat around 10:1 a/f ratio at WOT, should be able to squeak out some more hp when I lean it out, but had some issues with the predator tuner. Only ran the engine to 6000rpm and saw 8 psi at the manifold.
#79
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Originally posted by Wookdawg@June 8, 2005, 1:42 PM
MANUAL, HC trap removed
Baseline: Dyno Dynamics, 78F, 283.1hp (seemed a bit high)
MANUAL, HC trap removed
Baseline: Dyno Dynamics, 78F, 283.1hp (seemed a bit high)