Vegasjay

<!--QuoteBegin-169stang@April 9, 2005, 5:22 PM
the 300 hp that he manufacturers advertise with is at the flywheel. When we are saying that we are getting 294 rwhp, it's rear wheel horse power. There's a loss of power from the flywheel to the rear tires-typically 15%+/-.

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What he said. For example If you take my 312.8 Rear wheel horsepower (HP going to the ground) and multiply it by 18% (an average parisitic loss through drivetrain and accesories) it would come out to about 370 crank horsepower (HP at the crank of the engine) or the same number that a dealership would display on the window sticker.... A stock 2005 Mustang GT is good for about 255-265 RWHP on a dynojet Dyno, just for comparison.

Vegasjay

Mikem, I'm still learning about dragracing traction mod's. What type of air bag would one purchase ( brand name, model #, etc.), and exactly were would one mount said airbag. I appreciate any help, and must say this sound's interesting for sure.

Thank's Justin.

mikem

The bag goes inside your rear springs.Then you just run the line to a spot that is easy to fill AIR-60797 $66 Airlift is the name of it.

mikem

Get it at SummitRacing.com

169stang

I'm waiting on coil overs. It's my understanding that airbags are more helpful if your car is pulling more to the right, which is typical or to the left, if something is screwy with the suspension. If it pulls, you add air to one air bag to straighten it up.

mikem

Totaly the oposite.Notice car will try to twist left front up, right rear down.Well the airbag counteracts this and plants the right rear with more force.Also using two you can adjust each side if necesary.But hey if you want to spend more money on other shinny expensive things.Nock your self out.seems like the people putting your gears in are realy doing a good job(blown bearings).I love racing people that throw all kinds of money at there car.

169stang

I think it's obvious to those here that I'm novice to racing. From what I've been told, this car would be better off with coil overs. I inquired about air bags. The people that originally put my gears in was Steeda themselves. Yes, you would think I shouldn't be having an issue with the rearend already. I've learned my lesson with their mechanics. What is your point anyways. I'm not just throwing money at my car. I'm trying to set my car up as best as possible and learning as I go. I've found someone that I trust to inform me as well as info that I learn from here. What I don't need is info that your spewing here. Nock is Knock just to inform you.

Besides the redo on the rearend, it doesn't look like I've thrown that much more money at my car than you have.

mikem

Well here me out.All i am saying is.Yes i am new to this 05 mustang but I am 33 years old with 15 of that spent Building cars for dragracing.I have owned many cars that ran numbers people couldnt understand.I have cheap tricks and low tech things that work extremely well.As i grew up building cars i was always on a budget until now.I tune and built my best freinds 8.60 159mph street driven 79 camaro.The things i am telling you are not just spewn out.Did you remove your front swaybar yet?Probably not. Someone probably told you that,doing this offers no gain.Your car is not quick enough to justify coilovers.Just trying to save you some money.My track opens this fri.Keep an eye on my numbers compared to what i have spent on it.I put my money were the car reacts to it.Not some salesman who promises this and that.I am excited hearing about your car.There are so many small mods you can do yourself that do work.Instead of new motor mounts how about a chain/strap with turn buckle from engine to chassis.Cost about $5.00 Homedepot.I also set up my own rearend gears.With dial indicators tourque vallues,and preload.When people use to do all kinds of mods to stangs back in the day GT40 this GT40 that.supercharger. Just to run twelves.I ran mid 11s with my totaly stock longblock Grandnational.

169stang

Your incorrect on removing the front sway. I did remove it based on what you said and based on what a buddy told me that is in his upper 40's and been racing for about as long, if not more, than you. It did help. With the new ET Drag radials and removing the sway, I was hooking hard which may have found the weak part in my rearend. I don't take one single person's advice or word right up front. I check into things and learn what I can to be more knowledgable. I don't just pay someone to do something. I'd love it if I had the time to do every single thing myself. I don't have the facilities or time to do so. When I do something, I avoid having to repeat it. I don't do anything half azzed. I like to do it right the first time. I don't know everything about racing, but I'm learning. I understand that I could use chains, turnbuckles and such for $5, but I would rather use a billet motor mounts, because 1) it looks better 2)most likely lighter than your method 3) I don't have to worry about making it myself.
I very much respect the guys out there with older cars, that fabricate and make every single part on their car. I respect the fact that you have done these things yourself as well. The difference is that this isn't a 69 mustang, and old foxbody or something similiar. It's an 05 mustang. Times have changed. I have a 69 coupe which I wouldn't mind making and doing everything myself to it. Time is on my side with that car.
As far as the rearend in my car. The spider gears were very worn. The stock carrier is weak and maybe even cracked (don't know w/o taking the spider gears out). My buddy seems to think it maybe "stretched." The locking pin was bent and the main pin was loose. It had a groove in it caused from spinning and rubbing on the locking pin. Much more, it maybe would have sheered off. Not a good thing for the rearend. I'm going to be going to an Auburn Pro differential and to 4:30 gears.

mikem

Thats cool.just wanted to help you out.your doing just fine.I to am stuck on desisions of what i want to do with my 30,000 05 GT.Dont realy want to run to quick at track, because I definately aint puting a rolllcage in it.

j-stang

Man - I love this forum!!!

mikem

Ran the car tonight for the first time made two runs.Stock tires.Left the line at 2,500RPM.Got wheel hop.Shifted at 6,000 each gear.Just about went threw the Traps in 3rd gear.Was only at 6,200.
1ST Run 60ft-2.048 13.59@102.62
2ND Run 60ft-2.023 13.463@103.79
Well, thats my baseline.I also shifted cautiously into 3rd.Stock shifter stinks.Could not believe the car weigh'd 3,763LBS

sybidoc

05 Mustang GT M5 Stock: HC removed, 262RWHP, 289 RWTQ. Predator 87 octane tune: 279RWHP, 301RWTQ. No CAI, no exhaust, no nothin'. Total gain: 17 RWHP, 12 RWTQ. 4.10 Gears next Thur, maybe CAI after that. Dynojet

169stang

[attachmentid=19309]Okay, here's my revision: 313.2 rwhp/327.2 rwtq. SAE HP Dynojet 11 a.m. altitude-13 ft. roughly 80 degrees. Performance mods: Steeda UD pullies, charge motion plates, CAI, SCT Xcalibrator 93 octane custom tune. Stainless Works 1 3/4 long tube headers, 3" full exhaust-X-pipe, offroad-no cats. Non-performance mods: 4.30 gears, Auburn Pro differential, Steeda Lower control arms, Steeda sport springs, Paul's HP-line locks, upper third link, short throw shifter.

mikem

How much do you think the charge motion plates added?

169stang

The red pull on the chart is before the Plates. The blue is after. It's roughly 6 rwhp/6 rwtq.

Redfire 05Gt

How much work is it to install those things?

169stang

It's very simple. unplug all the harness that line your intake cover, pull off passenger side of fuel rail-lay over to drivers side. Remove bolts for intake cover. Magnet will make it easy to pluck them out of their holes. lift off the intake cover. Remove the stock plates. Remove the green gaskets/seals on the stock plates. Install new plates on intake. Install green seals on new plates. Replace intake and bolts-either get torque settings or tighten evenly until snug. The intake is plastic, so don't tighten to much. Replace fuel rail, plug harness' back in, that's it. Oh, remove the intake from the throttle body first and last. You'll need a tune! Easy to install, approx. 30 min. with one left and one right hand. approx. 1-1 1/2 hrs for to left hands.

Colvindesign

Mikem, I have to agree about the bag, also what helps with that is a pinion snubber, we hooked up my buddy's air bag to have the filler nozzle in the place of one of the license plate screws, that way it was easily accessable and with a rubber nipple over it, no one ever noticed. That was on his 92LX but I don't know how hard that would be on a 05. Before and after numbers were night and day after those mods, but he also had subframes and torque boxes welded in at the same time.

mikem

Yes, just those two inexpensive items do most of what all these other things they try to sell you do.