70MACH1OWNER

I was thinking the same thing as you when I was reading your post. 20-30 HP and your there with Redrocket. Is your tune way on the safe side for a non-intercooled SC'er? Can you safely turn up the wick a tick?? I know there is always that line in the sand you don't ever want to cross.

tom281

Oops sorry, I shouldn't post while skimming threads at work LOL.

Five Oh Brian

I'm running a very conservative, daily driver tune. Redrocket has long tube headers & a manual trans, so he's got a leg up on me there. I'm not comfortable turning up the wick on my tune since it's my daily driver.

However, I'm tempted to have a second tune for race-gas just for the track since we have VP race fuel available at our local track ($9/gallon). I could probably pick up 2 or 3 degrees of timing with 104 octane race fuel without any detonation, which would be another 20-30 rwhp and 11.90's in the process. However, I like having one tune for street & strip so I can just drive to the strip, let a little air out of the D/R's, and start racing without making adjustments. Kind of a "run what ya brung" mentality.

Like Redrocket, I think long tubes will get me in the 11's. I'm also contemplating the C&L or JPC intake manifold, which also get rid of the CMCV's. I'll have an 11 second timeslip by summer's end, I'm sure.

70MACH1OWNER

I'm pulling for you my friend!! Best of luck! I'll be watching.

Redrocket06

forensicsteve, I am running 275-40-17 Nitto DR's on 17" black Cobra R wheels. That 12.0 run was on 18 psi (tire pressure). If I get a line lock I will have no traction issues. I can drive the crap out of the car....but can never do a good burnout to get the nittos to temp.

Brian, what is your 60ft? I have watched you improve your 1/4 mile times with almost no extra mods. Do you keep track of the weather conditions every time you run? I have a long list of my times along with temp, humidity, barometric pressure, tire pressure, and car weight so I can now judge what I should run from a day to day drive based on the weather info. Since I got boost this past fall I have to start over now, I think I have my info for winter, I am interested to see what the summer's lower pressure and high temps will bring. My NA setup varied .2-.3 slower in the summer. Also I like the idea of a better intake manifold but I do not like the aluminum. It just screams heat soak to me. I would look at a sheet metal or composite one first. Any word on the Ford Racing manifold? I have heard the factory one flows just fine up to 6500 rpm, any higher and look for new valve train. And look up the DIY delete plates, That is what I did and havent looked back, cost me $10 for the JBWeld. I was able to inspect it 10,000 miles later during the blower install and all is well.

Scott, I am still running the Brenspeed mailorder tune that came with the blower, from what I see many are getting 400ish whp on the standard kit with a dynotune and 420ish with longtubes and a dynotune. I am looking for 420-430 whp with a dynotune blower only and 480 whp with nitrous. I want a ***** to the wall blower only tune and a lets see what happends nitrous tune. If that make sence. If it pops......I guess I will just have to put in a 5.0 and max out the V3. If my wife lets me live.

forensicsteve

You are going to have move away from those Nittos, especially with the projected rwhp increase.

Five Oh Brian

My 60' times are in the 1.79 to 1.85 range. Never worse than a 1.85. I keep track of weather conditions and have a spreadsheet full of my runs, weather, mods, changes, etc. I also keep Density Altitude correction factors handy so I can predict my runs while I'm in the staging lanes waiting to race (our track's tower has a huge electronic weather station display for us all to see). I try to race in the fall months, so most of my racing is done in very similar conditions (55-65 degrees, barometer just over 30). Summertime and the lanes are filled for hours between runs and the heat hurts my ET's by a couple tenths, like you.

My 1/4 mile timeslips have progressed with the blower, as follows:

• Freshly installed blower with custom dyno tune: 12.50's @ 110.
• FRPP 3V0 spark plugs and revised tuning to lock-up the converter sooner in 3rd/4th/5th: 12.30's @ 111.
• More aggressive converter lock-up and SLP X-pipe with high flow cats: 12.10's @ 113.

So, spark plugs, X-pipe, and tuning, tuning, tuning and I improved 4 tenths and 3 mph. It's little details like this that add up.

I think you're right about the delete plates. Lots of companies like Brenspeed include delete plates with the Vortech kits with very good results. I bought the standard Vortech kit that didn't come with delete plates, but I can see now that I should have. Perhaps I'll pass on the whole intake manifold and just do the delete plates and see what happens.

On a side note, Steve is right that your Nittos aren't going to work with any more power. They last longer on the street at the expense of not being very sticky on the track. The BFG's I use are the opposite; good bite (so far) at the track but wear out quicker on the street. You and I both could really benefit from an even softer sidewall. We're getting okay 60' times now, but both of us could probably get into the 1.65 to 1.70 range if we stepped up our race tire choice.

Eventually, I'll stop modding once the car goes 11.50's. I do NOT want a cage in my car (req'd at 11.49 or quicker).

sams66

These times are all for autos? what do these cars do with a manual and similar set up? i have been considering a vortech system for a while.

thanks

Sam

Redrocket06

That is good 60fts, mine are very inconsistant. The Nittos are a good tire but have to be heated and I am anything but a burnout king. Plus a linelock is way cheeper than 2 new DR's, the Nittos will have to be worn out first, then some Micky T's will find their way to my garage.

At 8 PSI and stock long block I would just do the deletes. And after a valve train upgrade think about a better intake manifold so you can rev it passed 6500 and really get to the sweep spot that we are missing with our centri....higher rpms. After I get so lucky and am able to get a built 5.0 I would love to have 7000 rpm shifts. Be in the spot where this V3 is still building power while the PD blowers have leveled off.....SWEET!
Oh and long tubes!! $500 for the OBX with 2 O/R H or $785 for Mac with x pipe, gaskets, and O'2 extentions from Brenspeed.
I have spent a total of $750 on my OBX's....2 cats to beable to get an inspection, new OEM gaskets, O'2 extentions. But that was over a 2 year period.....my inspection is 1 yr over due, but with the cat welded on the extra H pipe I can now do that. To be consistant with your 4500-6500 rpm range goal I would do the Mac's with the 1 3/4 primaries

Five Oh Brian

Hey, Sam. Yep, Redrocket and I are both running automatics with our Vortech non-intercooled blowers. Manual transmission will get about 20 more hp to the ground, so they may be just a tad bit quicker, but only if you can shift faster than the automatic after a good tune.

Five Oh Brian

Long tubes are on my short list along with delete plates. I can easily see two or three tenths improvement there.

So true about the revs. I have the shift points set at 6400 rpm's now, but on the dyno it made 364 rwhp at 6400 rpm's and just 400 rpm's later at 6800 rpm's it was over 370 rwhp and still climbing fast. My tuner tells me that V2/3's have plenty of efficiency left past the factory redline. I've considered bumping the shift points to 7000 rpm's to take advantage of the extra boost/power, but worry that the stock rods will exit the block abuptly, so it'll stay at 6400 rpm's for now with the factory internals.

A good sticky tire on your car will make it super consistent and reduce your stress. Well worth the extra expense to not worry whether you're gonna hook or not. Traction is so limited that eliminating that variable gives me peace of mind at the track. I used to have a '68 GTO that made well over 500 lb ft torque (big block Pontiac V8), and traction was horrible even with a true slick. I raced it for 9 seasons and rarely won money with it at the track as the traction was so inconsistent; I could never dial in right for eliminations as I never knew if it was gonna hook or spin 100 ft even with a good burnout. That GTO totally drove me crazy, so now I work on making my cars hook up first before adding more power.

Redrocket06

Sam,
I have a 5 speed manual .... not and auto.
That may be why all you guys want me to get 'better' DR's, ya'll think I am auto. No I'm manual and can not do a smoky burnout to save my life. Smoky burn out = sticky Nittos, I never have ran my Nittos heated to the temp that they should be to stick like they are designed. Linelock FTW.
For the $ the V3 standard kit from Brenspeed is the best, If you want lowend do not do centri, I gained almost no seat of the pants feel driving normal below 3000 rpm, but my top end only stops pulling when I shift. I have gone 12 flat with 11.9-8's on the table, and my kill list is climbing....fast.

Brian,
I shift at 6500 and hit 116-117 mph in the 1/4, I tried 6300 and did 114 mph. I also have also bounced off 7000 rpm and left a pucker spot in the driver seat..

Five Oh Brian

Oops, my bad. I don't know why I was thinking you had an automatic trans. I guess that answers Sam's question as to how the two compare.

Maybe I'll try a run at a higher shift point just for fun one track day this year to see if my trap speed increases much.

Like you said, no bottom end with a centri, but you don't race at low rpm's anyway, so it's not really an issue. Makes launching easier and makes more power where it counts. For street driven centri's, you really need more rear end gear (and a converter for those of us with an automatic), to spike the car into the powerband instantly.

Here's to both of us running some high 11's this season!