Update.....Brenspeed non-cooled 8psi Vortech V3 kit, Brenspeed 93 octane mailorder tune (SCT), OBX Longtube headers, O/R H, Delete plates, front swaybar removed.
http://s301.photobucket.com/albums/n...=1-5-10001.flv

3660 lbs (with me in it)
51*F
59% humidity
30ish barmeter
17 psi in the DR's
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/n.../1-5-10038.jpg

Yes that is a GT500 next to me, guy was on DR's and said his best so far is 12.6's with traction trouble.

 

Just goes to prove how much power I'm bottling up with the factory exhaust manifolds! Man, I need some long tubes bad! I've got the same blower you have (non-cooled V2) with minimal mods. 12.1's @ 113 in the 1/4, so your exhaust is good for a few mph through the traps - nice!

 

That's a darn good time. Congrats.

 

NICE!!!

 

Good weather and a 1.80 or better 60ft it will do 11.9's.....nice. I have been very inconsistant on my E.T.'s but hitting 116mph or 117mph every time.

Brian, get the LT's, I saw an article once that compaired almost all the LT's on a blown S197 and it looked like the MAC's gave the best gains.....DO IT!!!! You will love the sound and topend. I also have delete plates.

 

Good for you Dean!!!

 

I definitely want to add LT's. Just an SLP X-pipe with high flow cats netted me two tenths and two mph in the 1/4 mile, so the LT's gotta be worth as much. I'm also thinking about the C&L intake manifold that will effectively get rid of the CMCV plates at the same time. I really should have done delete plates when the blower went on, but you live & learn.

I'm really amazed how well our cars perform with the non-cooled Vortech V2/V3 blowers. Everyone under the sun seems to rave about all the twin screw blowers out there, but we're getting awesome performance at the track for half the money with our centrifugals.

 

That's good time and here is an example of a 11.6 ET on a Paxton HO kit

http://gallery.me.com/steve.vance/10...12654389960001

 

That Paxton HO is quick. Quicker than my standard V2 by .25 second at the 1/8 mile and .50 second at the 1/4 mile. Sure wish I would have had the $$$ to do the intercooler when the blower went on.

 

Adding the 'cooler is a big improvement..... not that the standard kit is lacking but more that the cooler enhances the power curve and makes delivery more consistent from run to run.

 

when I grow up, I wanna be rich like you! one of these days my kids will be done with college and I can start modding like crazy again.

 

Hey Brian,
From one auto guy to another I am very impressed with your track times. Yeah...horsepower is a requirement but your one of the fastest auto's out there. Tom just has good credit!!

 

I ain't rich.... I started just like you did; base kit then upgraded later. That's why I had a Vortech blower with a Paxton 'cooler. Now, I have two Mustangs neither one with a blower.

Good credit is just as good as cash nowadays.

 

I know, I was just kiddin' with ya. I got lucky and paid for the blower with a very big tax refund a couple years ago, but had to make a deal with my wife to use last year's big tax refund for a family trip to Holland (which we took last summer and had a blast). This year's tax refund wasn't quite as big and we paid down revolving debt with it. Maybe next year's tax refund will go toward an intercooler and/or long tube headers. This year it'll just be small stuff since we are trying hard not to use the credit cards and get them paid off.

 

Thanks, Scott. I've done very little to my car (just the V2, converter, gears, X-pipe, and drag radials - that's it), but I think the combination is my success. I set the car up to work best from 4,500 to 6,500 rpm's, so all three mods work in harmony.

Here's a little known fact that I don't share much about my car since we all like to brag about big #'s. It dyno'd decently (Mustang Dyno, by the way) at 364 rwhp @ 6,400 rpm's, but it only laid down 304 lb ft of torque. There are plenty of N/A GT's out there making much more torque, but the converter & gears really bolster my launches, then the blower handles it from a roll. Again, it comes down to picking parts that work well together.

 

Strong times....you get the short time down a tad and you'll be thinking of rollbars

What DRs were you using?

 

And that ladies and gents, is why dyno numbers don't necessarily mean anything.

Looks like BFG's in his signature but not sure what size.....

 

I was wondering about redrocket's rubber. They're both 11 second cars with some soft stickies...something like M&H racemaster.

 

I'd love to run some 11.9XX's with my GT. My 60' times aren't great (1.79-1.85), but I don't spin at all on launch. I run BFG 275/40/17 drag radials at 18 psi. If a softer sidewall would help, I'll try it. If I could get my 60's in the 1.6's, then I think I could run high 11's. Of course, a few dozen extra horsepower, like Redrocket06, and I'd be there.

 

I've never been a big fan of bragging about dyno numbers; way too many variables from one dyno to another. Plus, having an automatic and lots of rear end gear dillutes my #'s anyway. I've beaten plenty of cars at the track that boasted way higher dyno #'s than my car, and I've been beaten by cars that dyno'd less than me. That said, dyno's are an excellent tuning tool, even if they aren't an accurate measure of power.

Having taken many physics classes in high school and college, I've always believed that real horsepower can best be measured empirically with timeslip data. After all, horsepower is just a measure of torque applied over a known time & distance and the math to calculate it is straightforward.