Anyone have a **PIC** of the inside of a 3V 4.6L Oil Pan?
#1
Thread Starter
Anyone have a **PIC** of the inside of a 3V 4.6L Oil Pan?
I'm interested in seeing what kind of baffling (if any) is in there.
Thanks in advance...
Thanks in advance...
#2
Legacy TMS Member
I don't have a photo, but there is baffling. Not so much in the oil pan but on the bottom of the block.
You can see some here, in the first pic.
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showth...40#post1087440
You can see some here, in the first pic.
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showth...40#post1087440
#3
#4
Thread Starter
I don't have a photo, but there is baffling. Not so much in the oil pan but on the bottom of the block.
You can see some here, in the first pic.
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showth...40#post1087440
You can see some here, in the first pic.
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showth...40#post1087440
I'm interested in seeing if there is any baffling that holds oil in place at the pickup during hard cornering.
I haven't seen any oil pressure dips during my HPDE activities but it would make me feel better to know how well the oil pan itself is baffled.
#6
Slaya, the hole you punched for the oil temp sender was at the front of the pan? I would have thought you would want it in the side, like across from the factory sending unit? Or am I missing something here?
#7
Team Mustang Source
I was under the impression that there was no factory oil temperature sensor. The computer uses many other factors to guess at the oil temperature, or what it should be. That is where you get the oil temp. reading from an X-Cal or other reader. It is all extrapolated data, not hard data.
I could be wrong though, but I'm pretty sure on this. Same thing for some other values and readings you can get from the OBDII port...such as exhaust valve temp. You think there is really a sensor on an exhaust valve to measure it's temp??? No. It's calculated somehow based on rpm, fuel, O2 content in the exhaust, engine load.....etc.
I could be wrong though, but I'm pretty sure on this. Same thing for some other values and readings you can get from the OBDII port...such as exhaust valve temp. You think there is really a sensor on an exhaust valve to measure it's temp??? No. It's calculated somehow based on rpm, fuel, O2 content in the exhaust, engine load.....etc.
#8
Thread Starter
#9
I was under the impression that there was no factory oil temperature sensor. The computer uses many other factors to guess at the oil temperature, or what it should be. That is where you get the oil temp. reading from an X-Cal or other reader. It is all extrapolated data, not hard data.
I could be wrong though, but I'm pretty sure on this. Same thing for some other values and readings you can get from the OBDII port...such as exhaust valve temp. You think there is really a sensor on an exhaust valve to measure it's temp??? No. It's calculated somehow based on rpm, fuel, O2 content in the exhaust, engine load.....etc.
I could be wrong though, but I'm pretty sure on this. Same thing for some other values and readings you can get from the OBDII port...such as exhaust valve temp. You think there is really a sensor on an exhaust valve to measure it's temp??? No. It's calculated somehow based on rpm, fuel, O2 content in the exhaust, engine load.....etc.
#10
Thread Starter
I thought it was an oil-level sensor, but the factory maintenance manual says it is INDEED a temp sensor!
#12
Legacy TMS Member
#13
Thread Starter
Is there a root cause to the block failure, other than "overboost"? The FRPP 500hp kits run 11psi on the aluminum block 4.6Ls
#14
The conventional wisdom is that around 10PSI on a safe tune (~450RWHP) is the max the stock bottom end can take. If you forge the bottom end, then you can go a lot higher on the boost, but either engine will fail given a bad tune. Yes, you can extract more power from a 10-12PSI setup by running just a little leaner, and/or adding in a little more timing, but the chances for catastrophic failure go up exponentially at that point.
#15
Thread Starter
Thanks Dave!
#16
On my pan, I punched the hole an inch or two under the factory sender location. Worked like a charm.
#17
#18
Not missing anything--that isn't my pan, just some pics I lifted off the web to help me figure out where to punch my hole without having to remove the pan. I'm guessing the fitting we see is for a blower oil return line.
On my pan, I punched the hole an inch or two under the factory sender location. Worked like a charm.
On my pan, I punched the hole an inch or two under the factory sender location. Worked like a charm.
Ahhhh, now that makes sense... Thanks!
#19
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