I'm interested in seeing what kind of baffling (if any) is in there.

Thanks in advance...

 

I don't have a photo, but there is baffling. Not so much in the oil pan but on the bottom of the block.

You can see some here, in the first pic.

http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showth...40#post1087440

 

By the looks of the pics above...it seems the factory windage tray sucks...you thinking of swapping that out?

 

Yeah, thats a windage tray--not what I was looking for, thanks though

I'm interested in seeing if there is any baffling that holds oil in place at the pickup during hard cornering.

I haven't seen any oil pressure dips during my HPDE activities but it would make me feel better to know how well the oil pan itself is baffled.

 

Here you go--can't remember where I found them, but they were very helpful when I was determining where to punch a hole for my temp sender.

 

Slaya, the hole you punched for the oil temp sender was at the front of the pan? I would have thought you would want it in the side, like across from the factory sending unit? Or am I missing something here?

 

I was under the impression that there was no factory oil temperature sensor. The computer uses many other factors to guess at the oil temperature, or what it should be. That is where you get the oil temp. reading from an X-Cal or other reader. It is all extrapolated data, not hard data.

I could be wrong though, but I'm pretty sure on this. Same thing for some other values and readings you can get from the OBDII port...such as exhaust valve temp. You think there is really a sensor on an exhaust valve to measure it's temp??? No. It's calculated somehow based on rpm, fuel, O2 content in the exhaust, engine load.....etc.

 

Thank you, fellow Lap-Dog!

Looks like there is at least SOME baffling around the pickup in the factory pan.

 

I've heard that as well... THAT SAID, if you look at the second picture in Slaya's post, you'll notice a sensor on the passenger side of the oil pan, and I also have a sensor on my pan as well. Not saying it's a temp sensor, it could well be a level-sensor, but...

 

I thought it was an oil-level sensor, but the factory maintenance manual says it is INDEED a temp sensor!

 

That is interesting.

 

OK, gotcha now...... sorry for the confusion. Atleast you got to see some carnage pix LOL.

 

For sure. I saw that in the other thread! Was that your engine?

Is there a root cause to the block failure, other than "overboost"? The FRPP 500hp kits run 11psi on the aluminum block 4.6Ls

 

That wasn't a block failure, that was a failure of the rotating assembly... The FRPP tune itself is EXTREMELY conservative (or so I'm told), and engine safety under boost (or even NA) is all in the tune. If you start detonating, PARTICULARLY under high boost, you spike the cylinder pressure to stupid levels, while the piston and rod are still on the way up. At that point, you have inertia of the piston heading upwards, and extreme pressure (applied suddenly, I may add) pushind downward. The stock powdered-metal rod is the weakest link in the bottom end, and it will fracture. At that point, you have HALF of the rod flying around, still attached to the crank, beating the ever-loving-hell out of the inside of the block. THAT is the failure mode at work here. I've also seen pix of motors where the rods haven't broken, but bent, and pulled the piston into the crank gallery, THEN broke, launching the piston up through the top of the block, between the heads.

The conventional wisdom is that around 10PSI on a safe tune (~450RWHP) is the max the stock bottom end can take. If you forge the bottom end, then you can go a lot higher on the boost, but either engine will fail given a bad tune. Yes, you can extract more power from a 10-12PSI setup by running just a little leaner, and/or adding in a little more timing, but the chances for catastrophic failure go up exponentially at that point.

 

Thanks Dave!

 

Not missing anything--that isn't my pan, just some pics I lifted off the web to help me figure out where to punch my hole without having to remove the pan. I'm guessing the fitting we see is for a blower oil return line.

On my pan, I punched the hole an inch or two under the factory sender location. Worked like a charm.

 

I seem to remember reading somewhere that it is for the VCT and is basically just a "is it hot/cold" type of sender.

 

Ahhhh, now that makes sense... Thanks!

 

Could be

The manual isn't any more specific than what I've shown