Track Related Mods
6/27/16, 12:05 PM
#301
Mach 1 Member
Well .... It certainly looks like you had a lot of fun and a **** good time! The issue with the overheating is one that hits close to me since I have a Boss which is NOTORIOUS for having overheating issues on track. It seems that depending on the temperature and even the elevation people will either have cooling issues or no cooling issues and be able to run all day. One of the most effective mods that you can do is to pull out the grill when you run on a hot day or buy a different more free flowing grill. Some of the best would be the Roush, the Cobra Jet grill (which is nothing more than a GT/CS grill with the sides drilled out), the Saleen, anything that will allow large amounts of airflow into the grill. You can get into the heat extractor hoods as well if you would like. I still believe the Tiger Racing hood removes underhood heat even though some people haven't noticed changes in oil or coolant temperatures. You can go with a bigger radiator, but even the Boss 302R or S (I forget which one it is) that Ford Racing makes doesn't do that great of a job of removing heat nor does the C&R/Shelby Radiator. It seems that the only one that really does help is the Fluidyne Boss302R-HX which also includes an oil cooler as well. It was created when a driving school kept sending their Boss's (if I am rembering correctly) into limp mode so they contacted Fluidyne to help solve their issues and it did the trick. It is expensive at around $1,000, but when you think that you are also getting an oil cooler and a radiator that works, it doesn't seem like too steep of a price. Even if you get a regular Boss 302 radiator you can also piece together an oil cooler setup for fairly cheap. I can get further into detail on oil cooler setups once I get to a computer if you are interested.
Last edited by SGwick; 6/27/16 at 12:30 PM.
6/27/16, 12:07 PM
#302
Mach 1 Member
*hate autocorrect
6/27/16, 04:58 PM
#303
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Yeah, that's the nice thing about this forums, lots of knowledge and experiences. Thanks SGwick, redonblackpony and Ford20, good content. I'm glad to be a part of this community!
Last edited by 5.M0NSTER; 6/27/16 at 07:06 PM.
6/27/16, 05:45 PM
#304
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Some great track discussion in this thread. I just had my first track day at Motorsports Park Hastings in Hastings, NE. I have only been to one other track but for my first day at this track I was able to pull the 4th fastest lap time of the day (out of about 20 cars) and according to Race Monitor I would have came in second if it was a race 
. Which really means nothing but it made me feel good about my performance. All but about 6 people there were had previous experience on the track and many had much more modified cars. I just swap brakes and tires for the track otherwise I'm stock. Unfortunately I didn't notice that my phone was out of storage so no Track Addict video but here's some screen shots from Race Monitor (Jim).
. Which really means nothing but it made me feel good about my performance. All but about 6 people there were had previous experience on the track and many had much more modified cars. I just swap brakes and tires for the track otherwise I'm stock. Unfortunately I didn't notice that my phone was out of storage so no Track Addict video but here's some screen shots from Race Monitor (Jim).So what group was this with? How did you get position and lap info? Was there someone keeping time, or did they give you GPS beacons?
6/27/16, 06:55 PM
#305
Legacy TMS Member
thx ford 20, you've given plenty of ideas/options. I'll look into maybe just dremeling (not a word) the hell out of the stock grill :-) I was actually looking at the ford racing 302S radiator but never confirmed the oil cooler too. If it's not too much trouble is love to get your oil cooler setup idea, that way I can set aside a budget to purchase my cooling setup. It got so irritating towards the end of having to left off the gas to cool the engine and let folks you've passed pass.
It is going to take me a few hours to gather everything though.
6/27/16, 07:16 PM
#306
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The issue with the overheating is one that hits close to me since I have a Boss which is NOTORIOUS for having overheating issues on track. It seems that depending on the temperature and even the elevation people will either have cooling issues or no cooling issues and be able to run all day. One of the most effective mods that you can do is to pull out the grill when you run on a hot day or buy a different more free flowing grill. Some of the best would be the Roush, the Cobra Jet grill (which is nothing more than a GT/CS grill with the sides drilled out), the Saleen, anything that will allow large amounts of airflow into the grill. You can get into the heat extractor hoods as well if you would like. I still believe the Tiger Racing hood removes underhood heat even though some people haven't noticed changes in oil or coolant temperatures. You can go with a bigger radiator, but even the Boss 302R or S (I forget which one it is) that Ford Racing makes doesn't do that great of a job of removing heat nor does the C&R/Shelby Radiator. It seems that the only one that really does help is the Fluidyne Boss302R-HX which also includes an oil cooler as well. It was created when a driving school kept sending their Boss's (if I am rembering correctly) into limp mode so they contacted Fluidyne to help solve their issues and it did the trick.
I have had 0 issues with overheating so far with my GT TP car (which has the Boss radiator and oil cooler). My car has 9 events now with the original coolant. I wonder why that is...
Is it because my car is rev limited to 6800rpm while the Boss revs out to 7400? Is it because the warmest ambient temp I've ever run was "only" 90 degrees or so? That's a full 18 deg cooler than SGWick encountered. Is it because I don't always wind out all the way 6800tpm in each gear and sometimes shift at 6300 or so?
I guess these could all be factors. I wonder how close my car comes to overheating.
The temp gauge has always stayed dead smack in the middle but I have never tried checking oil or coolant temps.
Last edited by 5.M0NSTER; 6/28/16 at 05:02 AM.
6/27/16, 07:41 PM
#307
MPH is a really nice facility. Every year they have a Mustang only event called the Mustang Roundup. There is an engineer with Ford who is from Hastings and has a condo at the track. He helped setup the Mustang Roundup and comes every year to give a presentation or brings other Ford employee's to talk. Last year it was mostly GT350 talk. This engineer's dad still lives in Hastings and was there this weekend. He showed us some of his son's cars including #8 of the 37 2015 GT350 R's. He even started it up for us to show off the exhaust modes. I was there last year just to hang out (as I said, this Saturday was first time actually driving on the track) and if I can only do one track event per year that's the one I'd go to. If you can make it, it's well worth it.
http://www.racemph.com/events/mustang-roundup/
6/28/16, 08:34 AM
#308
Legacy TMS Member
I certainly am no expert on the subject, and I haven't even built an oil cooler kit either so take what I say with a grain of salt. That being said, I have been reading about cooling on the Boss 302 for the last 2 years while I have had a car that has been blown up waiting for the day that I can get on track and have at it.
When we are talking about oil coolers one of the things that we have to look at is not only the capacity for removing heat, but also looking at the pressure drop that is created by the oil cooler. We want the lowest pressure drop (ie. lowest drop in oil presure) that we can get while maintaining the highest amount of potential for removing heat. I have been a fan of Setrab oil coolers as they are the only manufacturer that I know of that will list the capabilities of all of their line of oil coolers as well as having an excellent reputation in racing for many many years. In doing so I have found a pretty good vendor that I have never had any issues with in terms of ordering products in the past so I will link a majority of the stuff that I can to their website which is full of great things for racers.
For the most part I tend to see guys getting the biggest oil cooler that they can get which usually falls into the Setrab 9 series line of oil coolers since they are the biggest. My own personal issue and hypothesis about this is that yes, you theoretically have more surface area for the air to come in contact with the oil cooler thus providing better cooling, but is that air really reaching all of the oil cooler? If I had my notebook I would be able to show the measurements that I took in far as the grill opening as well as the lower grill opening and how thick the front bumper actually is. I just don't think that the part of the cooler that is obstructed by the front bumper is really seeing much if any direct airflow. There isn't a whole lot of direct air that an oil cooler can see on the 2012 models in all honesty which is one reason why the 2013 Boss 302's fair much better in terms of staying cool on track. I personally feel that it would be better to put the oil cooler in a direct line of fresh air this way the radiator/ A/C condesnor isn't going to be as obstructed and you are still getting fresh air into the oil cooler. I also tend to see a lot of guys removing the factory Boss oil cooler as there have been some issues with them leaking so it was just one less part for them to worry about. For me personally I am in the line of thinking like Ford Racing an Cooltech are with their oil coolers.
Here is the link to Setrab's line of oil coolers so you can see what I am talking about:
http://www.setrabusa.com/products/oi...ine/index.html
This is one option that I see a lot of Boss owners going with when it comes to their kits and deleting the factory Boss oil cooler:
First, we are going to need the oil cooler itself. These are the ones I see commonly used which are the 934 & 948 which seem to be the most popular:
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=8963
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=8964
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=8965
You will need mounting hardware as well and you will still probably have to figure out how to mount these:
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=9008
IIRC you wanted something like .5: away from the A/C condensor for maximum cooling efficiency, but I don't remember for sure off the top of my head. You may be able to find out the distance needed in an article somewhere online, but you will have to do some digging for it.
Then the Sandwich plate that will need a M22x1.5 adaptor. People tend to go towards the Mishimoto Sandwich plate if they want to keep the thermostat at the sandwich plate.
http://www.mishimoto.com/rear-mount-...late-m-22.html
If not, then you can use something like this Moroso piece which I believe both Ford Racing and Cooltech used in their kits:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-23699/overview/
If you are going to go down this route and not get the Mishimoto with the thermostat in the sandwich plate, then I would be getting this for sure. There are a few guys who run this thermostat with some pretty good success.
http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-th...85f-p-212.html
After reading this, I wouldn't have wanted to get a Mocal unit any longer. This just seems like such a high quality and well engineered piece.
http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20781
You are also going to need hoses and fittings. -10AN hoses seem to be the consensus here. Any larger and you could cause an unwanted drop in oil pressure, too small and you you can increase oil pressure and not feed enough oil to the cooler fast enough:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...1006/overview/
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...1006/overview/
The stainless steel braided hose is probably the way to go here to help prevent any abrasion to the hoses. You are also going to need to some AN fittings, but I would get these last as you are not going to know what you will need to get until you figure out the routing of your hoses. Don't get pushlock fittings because the pressures that you will see can cause the hoses to be pushed out of the fittings sending oil all over the front of your car while driving which can be very dangerous and catastrophic to your engine. Assembling AN hose lines is actually pretty easy if you have the right tools. Here is how I did mine from my build thread:
https://themustangsource.com/forums/...5/#post6968434
What I plan on doing is different then what I see done a lot of the time. Most of the Boss guys have deleted their factory oil coolers due to it either having a bad reputation as an oil heater or leaking fittings or not wanting to have to deal with those headaches. That being said, running the factory Boss oil cooler in tandem with a second air to air oil cooler according to Kendall at Cooltech LLC has much better benefits and will help remove more heat then just running the larger 9 series oil coolers and it seems that Ford Racing came found that as well in their testing since they are both utilizing the 1 series line of oil coolers from Setrab in line with the factory Boss oil cooler. Cooltech is using the 172 oil cooler while the Ford Racing oil cooler is using the 160. Originally the Cooltech kit would delete the factory Boss oil cooler, but through some testing they found that utilizing the factory oil cooler provided not only better cooling, but quicker engine warm up temps. I love the Cooltech kit and I don't believe there has been many people who have had many temperate issues with this kit that I know of including people who race at Sonoma or Willow Springs or any of those tracks where ambient can regularly get above 100 degrees. The thing I hate about the cooltech kit is that they use a remote mount oil filter. For me, I personally will be copying the cooltech kit, only without the remote mount oil filter I hope. For now, my oil cooler list consists of the following:
Setrab 172 oil cooler mounted in either the front of the grill or at the lower opening on the bottom of the bumper:
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=8940
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=9006
The Moroso sandwich plate:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-23699/overview/
Your hoses:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...1006/overview/
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...1006/overview/
I may go with the startlite hoses since they are lighter (45% lighter then the stainless steel braided hoses .14lbs./ft vs. 24lbs./ft for the braided hoses) and then adding these on top of them to help prevent any abrasion and also with preventing the underhood temps from soaking through the hoses:
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=1831
Why care about a .10lb weight savings? BcRacecar
Since I am keeping the Boss oil cooler I wouldn't have to need a thermostat so that is pretty much the setup I plan to run. I am almost positive I will mount this near the lower grill opening to allow a direct path of air to hit the oil cooler instead of having the grill blocking some of the airflow by mounting it up at the top of the of the car which is soooo much easier to do then trying to mount it down at the bottom. The only issue that I can see is I may have clearance issues with the sandwich plate being stacked on the Boss oil cooler. It has been so long since I have seen the engine in the car, I don't know how much clearance I have for the oil filter hitting something inside the engine bay so I might have to try and find a shorter oil filter if I run into any issues that way either trying to get it on or take it off. Worst case scenario I will have to mount a remote mount filter somewhere in the engine bay where there is easier access to do oil changes haha.
When we are talking about oil coolers one of the things that we have to look at is not only the capacity for removing heat, but also looking at the pressure drop that is created by the oil cooler. We want the lowest pressure drop (ie. lowest drop in oil presure) that we can get while maintaining the highest amount of potential for removing heat. I have been a fan of Setrab oil coolers as they are the only manufacturer that I know of that will list the capabilities of all of their line of oil coolers as well as having an excellent reputation in racing for many many years. In doing so I have found a pretty good vendor that I have never had any issues with in terms of ordering products in the past so I will link a majority of the stuff that I can to their website which is full of great things for racers.
For the most part I tend to see guys getting the biggest oil cooler that they can get which usually falls into the Setrab 9 series line of oil coolers since they are the biggest. My own personal issue and hypothesis about this is that yes, you theoretically have more surface area for the air to come in contact with the oil cooler thus providing better cooling, but is that air really reaching all of the oil cooler? If I had my notebook I would be able to show the measurements that I took in far as the grill opening as well as the lower grill opening and how thick the front bumper actually is. I just don't think that the part of the cooler that is obstructed by the front bumper is really seeing much if any direct airflow. There isn't a whole lot of direct air that an oil cooler can see on the 2012 models in all honesty which is one reason why the 2013 Boss 302's fair much better in terms of staying cool on track. I personally feel that it would be better to put the oil cooler in a direct line of fresh air this way the radiator/ A/C condesnor isn't going to be as obstructed and you are still getting fresh air into the oil cooler. I also tend to see a lot of guys removing the factory Boss oil cooler as there have been some issues with them leaking so it was just one less part for them to worry about. For me personally I am in the line of thinking like Ford Racing an Cooltech are with their oil coolers.
Here is the link to Setrab's line of oil coolers so you can see what I am talking about:
http://www.setrabusa.com/products/oi...ine/index.html
This is one option that I see a lot of Boss owners going with when it comes to their kits and deleting the factory Boss oil cooler:
First, we are going to need the oil cooler itself. These are the ones I see commonly used which are the 934 & 948 which seem to be the most popular:
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=8963
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=8964
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=8965
You will need mounting hardware as well and you will still probably have to figure out how to mount these:
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=9008
IIRC you wanted something like .5: away from the A/C condensor for maximum cooling efficiency, but I don't remember for sure off the top of my head. You may be able to find out the distance needed in an article somewhere online, but you will have to do some digging for it.
Then the Sandwich plate that will need a M22x1.5 adaptor. People tend to go towards the Mishimoto Sandwich plate if they want to keep the thermostat at the sandwich plate.
http://www.mishimoto.com/rear-mount-...late-m-22.html
If not, then you can use something like this Moroso piece which I believe both Ford Racing and Cooltech used in their kits:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-23699/overview/
If you are going to go down this route and not get the Mishimoto with the thermostat in the sandwich plate, then I would be getting this for sure. There are a few guys who run this thermostat with some pretty good success.
http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-th...85f-p-212.html
After reading this, I wouldn't have wanted to get a Mocal unit any longer. This just seems like such a high quality and well engineered piece.
http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20781
You are also going to need hoses and fittings. -10AN hoses seem to be the consensus here. Any larger and you could cause an unwanted drop in oil pressure, too small and you you can increase oil pressure and not feed enough oil to the cooler fast enough:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...1006/overview/
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...1006/overview/
The stainless steel braided hose is probably the way to go here to help prevent any abrasion to the hoses. You are also going to need to some AN fittings, but I would get these last as you are not going to know what you will need to get until you figure out the routing of your hoses. Don't get pushlock fittings because the pressures that you will see can cause the hoses to be pushed out of the fittings sending oil all over the front of your car while driving which can be very dangerous and catastrophic to your engine. Assembling AN hose lines is actually pretty easy if you have the right tools. Here is how I did mine from my build thread:
https://themustangsource.com/forums/...5/#post6968434
What I plan on doing is different then what I see done a lot of the time. Most of the Boss guys have deleted their factory oil coolers due to it either having a bad reputation as an oil heater or leaking fittings or not wanting to have to deal with those headaches. That being said, running the factory Boss oil cooler in tandem with a second air to air oil cooler according to Kendall at Cooltech LLC has much better benefits and will help remove more heat then just running the larger 9 series oil coolers and it seems that Ford Racing came found that as well in their testing since they are both utilizing the 1 series line of oil coolers from Setrab in line with the factory Boss oil cooler. Cooltech is using the 172 oil cooler while the Ford Racing oil cooler is using the 160. Originally the Cooltech kit would delete the factory Boss oil cooler, but through some testing they found that utilizing the factory oil cooler provided not only better cooling, but quicker engine warm up temps. I love the Cooltech kit and I don't believe there has been many people who have had many temperate issues with this kit that I know of including people who race at Sonoma or Willow Springs or any of those tracks where ambient can regularly get above 100 degrees. The thing I hate about the cooltech kit is that they use a remote mount oil filter. For me, I personally will be copying the cooltech kit, only without the remote mount oil filter I hope. For now, my oil cooler list consists of the following:
Setrab 172 oil cooler mounted in either the front of the grill or at the lower opening on the bottom of the bumper:
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=8940
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=9006
The Moroso sandwich plate:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-23699/overview/
Your hoses:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...1006/overview/
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...1006/overview/
I may go with the startlite hoses since they are lighter (45% lighter then the stainless steel braided hoses .14lbs./ft vs. 24lbs./ft for the braided hoses) and then adding these on top of them to help prevent any abrasion and also with preventing the underhood temps from soaking through the hoses:
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=1831
Why care about a .10lb weight savings? BcRacecar
Since I am keeping the Boss oil cooler I wouldn't have to need a thermostat so that is pretty much the setup I plan to run. I am almost positive I will mount this near the lower grill opening to allow a direct path of air to hit the oil cooler instead of having the grill blocking some of the airflow by mounting it up at the top of the of the car which is soooo much easier to do then trying to mount it down at the bottom. The only issue that I can see is I may have clearance issues with the sandwich plate being stacked on the Boss oil cooler. It has been so long since I have seen the engine in the car, I don't know how much clearance I have for the oil filter hitting something inside the engine bay so I might have to try and find a shorter oil filter if I run into any issues that way either trying to get it on or take it off. Worst case scenario I will have to mount a remote mount filter somewhere in the engine bay where there is easier access to do oil changes haha.
The following users liked this post:
SGwick (6/28/16)
6/28/16, 08:55 AM
#309
Legacy TMS Member
thx ford 20, you've given plenty of ideas/options. I'll look into maybe just dremeling (not a word) the hell out of the stock grill :-) I was actually looking at the ford racing 302S radiator but never confirmed the oil cooler too. If it's not too much trouble is love to get your oil cooler setup idea, that way I can set aside a budget to purchase my cooling setup. It got so irritating towards the end of having to left off the gas to cool the engine and let folks you've passed pass.
https://themustangsource.com/forums/...4/#post6962145
Good info here. Do you happen to know what temp (roughly) the Boss starts overheating?
I have had 0 issues with overheating so far with my GT TP car (which has the Boss radiator and oil cooler). My car has 9 events now with the original coolant. I wonder why that is...
Is it because my car is rev limited to 6800rpm while the Boss revs out to 7400? Is it because the warmest ambient temp I've ever run was "only" 90 degrees or so? That's a full 18 deg cooler than SGWick encountered. Is it because I don't always wind out all the way 6800tpm in each gear and sometimes shift at 6300 or so?
I guess these could all be factors. I wonder how close my car comes to overheating. The temp gauge has always stayed dead smack in the middle but I have never tried checking oil or coolant temps.
I have had 0 issues with overheating so far with my GT TP car (which has the Boss radiator and oil cooler). My car has 9 events now with the original coolant. I wonder why that is...
Is it because my car is rev limited to 6800rpm while the Boss revs out to 7400? Is it because the warmest ambient temp I've ever run was "only" 90 degrees or so? That's a full 18 deg cooler than SGWick encountered. Is it because I don't always wind out all the way 6800tpm in each gear and sometimes shift at 6300 or so?
I guess these could all be factors. I wonder how close my car comes to overheating.
The temp gauge has always stayed dead smack in the middle but I have never tried checking oil or coolant temps.The thing that is so great about the 2013-14's is that Ford gave them the GT500 front basically which really opens the grill up quite a bit! That plus the heat extractor vents really allows them to manage heat better then the 2012 models do which is a huge plus for the 2013 Boss and GT owners who track their cars. I would say that that is a factor in the overheating issues on the Boss since that is where the car lives, that is where it makes power and what it was designed for. The downside of that obviously is the higher you spin the motor the higher your oil temperatures are going to get which will lead to overheating the engine and sends the car into limp mode on track. TO help fight this alot of the Boss owners will short shift fro a lap or two until the temps become more manageable and the hammer down again. It is the one thing that Ford failed to get right on the Boss IMO.
6/28/16, 09:17 AM
#310
Mach 1 Member
Ford20 just wanted to say a big thank you, I have a lot of cooling homework now :-) it's my next priority project before anything else.
6/28/16, 11:25 AM
#311
Mach 1 Member
After researching ford20 I'm leaning towards (2011 mustang) FR 302S radiator, reische racing thermostat (170f), FR svt cooling fan, and cooltech boss 302 oil cooler kit (w/ thermostat) but I got time and need to save up
Last edited by SGwick; 6/28/16 at 12:14 PM.
6/28/16, 12:28 PM
#312
Legacy TMS Member
You can piece together the cool tech kit for cheaper then you can buy it for just as an FYI. I also had the 2013 SVT fan ... then I threw it out :/
6/28/16, 02:46 PM
#313
Mach 1 Member
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SGwick (6/28/16)
6/28/16, 07:07 PM
#315
Mach 1 Member
6/28/16, 07:11 PM
#316
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Join Date: August 2, 2013
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I typed that wrong. Not my first track day. First track day...at that track. MPH has a membership club called the Guardrail Club. Our Mustang Club from Omaha (2.5 hrs away) setup a deal to join them for one of their track days for a special rate. They have transponders we could rent for the day for $10 so I took advantage of that. The original idea was to compare it to my phone recordings to see how close the lap times were. The phone was keeping time but not recording because I was out of space. However, a couple of times while I was cruising by the start/finish line I'd glance up to see my time and it sure looks like the phone was pretty close to their transponders. Then I paid for a Race Monitor membership so I could see my lap times in the app. You can also use their web site but I don't think it shows every lap unless you have the membership.
MPH is a really nice facility. Every year they have a Mustang only event called the Mustang Roundup. There is an engineer with Ford who is from Hastings and has a condo at the track. He helped setup the Mustang Roundup and comes every year to give a presentation or brings other Ford employee's to talk. Last year it was mostly GT350 talk. This engineer's dad still lives in Hastings and was there this weekend. He showed us some of his son's cars including #8 of the 37 2015 GT350 R's. He even started it up for us to show off the exhaust modes. I was there last year just to hang out (as I said, this Saturday was first time actually driving on the track) and if I can only do one track event per year that's the one I'd go to. If you can make it, it's well worth it.
http://www.racemph.com/events/mustang-roundup/
MPH is a really nice facility. Every year they have a Mustang only event called the Mustang Roundup. There is an engineer with Ford who is from Hastings and has a condo at the track. He helped setup the Mustang Roundup and comes every year to give a presentation or brings other Ford employee's to talk. Last year it was mostly GT350 talk. This engineer's dad still lives in Hastings and was there this weekend. He showed us some of his son's cars including #8 of the 37 2015 GT350 R's. He even started it up for us to show off the exhaust modes. I was there last year just to hang out (as I said, this Saturday was first time actually driving on the track) and if I can only do one track event per year that's the one I'd go to. If you can make it, it's well worth it.
http://www.racemph.com/events/mustang-roundup/
That's interesting about the transponders. None of the tracks or event organizers I go to offer that. You have to time yourself, which is strange, because in the Detroit area there are a A LOT of automotive engineers tracking their cars. I was trying to keep up with a GT350 TP car recently driven by a Ford engineer. He got away from me
6/28/16, 07:19 PM
#317
Bullitt Member
Bummer! The running group I go with gives everyone a transponder for free. Every lap and every session is available on their website within 30 minutes after the session is over.
6/29/16, 06:23 AM
#318
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Are these events eligible for track insurance? I remember reading that events can't be timed to be eligible for HPDE insurance...
6/29/16, 06:39 AM
#319
That's cool. So is it just a group you go to the same track with or do you go to other tracks and they just provide transponders wherever you run? I know you can buy them for like $200 or something but I don't know if they are compatible with all tracks. I know NASA wants $75 to rent one for one of their weekend events. That's crazy.
6/29/16, 10:51 AM
#320
Bullitt Member
The group I run with have their own transponders and they work at any track. (Usually 5-6 different tracks).
Not sure about track insurance. I have never inquired
Not sure about track insurance. I have never inquired