Track Related Mods
#161
Shelby GT350 Member
#162
Mach 1 Member
yeah I was really surprised how active in the forums track drivers were and just the amount of information they've shared. Win win for all :-)
#163
Mach 1 Member
#164
Bullitt Member
I've been spending most of my time now on track Mustangs.com. Thanks for that info D Michaels. I wish I would've known of the site years ago.
#165
Mach 1 Member
#166
Shelby GT350 Member
#167
dmichaels threads here have been very helpful as well.
#168
Banned
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Join Date: August 2, 2013
Location: Little north of Stuttgart, Germany
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Getting used to the new suspension, and with the temps briefly topping out at 80 over the weekend I had a chance to push a bit more in some corners.
Good news! The car seemed more balanced now (not as tail happy as earlier) and I'm guessing that's because tires are now warm and grip again. No more straight line performance issues either. Still slow turn in, and that's something I have to experience at the track, but when I turn the wheel 90 degrees it doesn't turn as fast as it used to. No push or anything, just slower response. I need to think about this one a little more. Is it the front bar? Is it -2.0 deg of camber? Not sure yet...
I also see a lot of micro-cracks in my front rotors, particularly the passenger. I just ordered some Centric blank Cryo rotors. Not sure if I want to swap them up now or save them as my spares.
Good news! The car seemed more balanced now (not as tail happy as earlier) and I'm guessing that's because tires are now warm and grip again. No more straight line performance issues either. Still slow turn in, and that's something I have to experience at the track, but when I turn the wheel 90 degrees it doesn't turn as fast as it used to. No push or anything, just slower response. I need to think about this one a little more. Is it the front bar? Is it -2.0 deg of camber? Not sure yet...
I also see a lot of micro-cracks in my front rotors, particularly the passenger. I just ordered some Centric blank Cryo rotors. Not sure if I want to swap them up now or save them as my spares.
#169
Shelby GT350 Member
Getting used to the new suspension, and with the temps briefly topping out at 80 over the weekend I had a chance to push a bit more in some corners.
Good news! The car seemed more balanced now (not as tail happy as earlier) and I'm guessing that's because tires are now warm and grip again. No more straight line performance issues either. Still slow turn in, and that's something I have to experience at the track, but when I turn the wheel 90 degrees it doesn't turn as fast as it used to. No push or anything, just slower response. I need to think about this one a little more. Is it the front bar? Is it -2.0 deg of camber? Not sure yet...
I also see a lot of micro-cracks in my front rotors, particularly the passenger. I just ordered some Centric blank Cryo rotors. Not sure if I want to swap them up now or save them as my spares.
Good news! The car seemed more balanced now (not as tail happy as earlier) and I'm guessing that's because tires are now warm and grip again. No more straight line performance issues either. Still slow turn in, and that's something I have to experience at the track, but when I turn the wheel 90 degrees it doesn't turn as fast as it used to. No push or anything, just slower response. I need to think about this one a little more. Is it the front bar? Is it -2.0 deg of camber? Not sure yet...
I also see a lot of micro-cracks in my front rotors, particularly the passenger. I just ordered some Centric blank Cryo rotors. Not sure if I want to swap them up now or save them as my spares.
I would t worry about the surface cracks. Mine developed them after one or two track days and I've put 19 more days on since. They are very robust!! I did crack a rear rotor but since upgrading to the large rears, I don't even have surface cracking on them. Much cooler I guess!
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5.M0NSTER (4/20/16)
#171
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I'm still surprised your turn in feels slow... Mine is excellent with the suspension and front sway. Strange
I would t worry about the surface cracks. Mine developed them after one or two track days and I've put 19 more days on since. They are very robust!! I did crack a rear rotor but since upgrading to the large rears, I don't even have surface cracking on them. Much cooler I guess!
I would t worry about the surface cracks. Mine developed them after one or two track days and I've put 19 more days on since. They are very robust!! I did crack a rear rotor but since upgrading to the large rears, I don't even have surface cracking on them. Much cooler I guess!
As for turn in, I think it's a combination of 0 toe and high negative camber. I will do Grattan and Mid-O as is, and might adjust my alignment after to get some toe out. I want to evaluate if I really NEED -2.1 and -2.0 deg of camber up front. Maybe -1.6 and some more toe out is more of where I want to be at.
I use Russell lines. You can pick them up on LMR for cheap:
https://lmr.com/item/RUS-693380/Must...ar-05-14-GT-V6
#172
I use Russell lines. You can pick them up on LMR for cheap:
https://lmr.com/item/RUS-693380/Must...ar-05-14-GT-V6
https://lmr.com/item/RUS-693380/Must...ar-05-14-GT-V6
#174
Any thoughts on when the "full droop" issue would ever come into play? I'm guessing if they work for you with all of your track time, they will be fine for me.
#175
Shelby GT350 Member
#176
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Join Date: August 2, 2013
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mustang5o (4/20/16)
#178
Bullitt Member
I saw the Russell stainless steel brake lines on American muscle. Not really familiar with that brand. Possibly made for American muscle?
I went with the stop tech braided stainless steel lines. Brake pedal remains firm after many high-speed braking laps at the track.
I went with the stop tech braided stainless steel lines. Brake pedal remains firm after many high-speed braking laps at the track.
#179
I've seen Russell at LMR, AM and Amazon. That's probably what I'll end up with.
I have a hard time bringing myself to pay the price for the Vorshlag parts. That's why I copied dmichaels pieced together brake cooling but then used Vorshlags idea of putting them behind the lower grill and cut out some the honeycomb pattern to let the air through. I almost ordered their open lug nuts too as I thought the 17mm head would make it much easier to get a socket in there but again, price plus shipping was too much. Got 25 of the Ford ones for only $24 locally. I'll take it.
I have a hard time bringing myself to pay the price for the Vorshlag parts. That's why I copied dmichaels pieced together brake cooling but then used Vorshlags idea of putting them behind the lower grill and cut out some the honeycomb pattern to let the air through. I almost ordered their open lug nuts too as I thought the 17mm head would make it much easier to get a socket in there but again, price plus shipping was too much. Got 25 of the Ford ones for only $24 locally. I'll take it.
#180
Shelby GT350 Member
I've seen Russell at LMR, AM and Amazon. That's probably what I'll end up with.
I have a hard time bringing myself to pay the price for the Vorshlag parts. That's why I copied dmichaels pieced together brake cooling but then used Vorshlags idea of putting them behind the lower grill and cut out some the honeycomb pattern to let the air through. I almost ordered their open lug nuts too as I thought the 17mm head would make it much easier to get a socket in there but again, price plus shipping was too much. Got 25 of the Ford ones for only $24 locally. I'll take it.
I have a hard time bringing myself to pay the price for the Vorshlag parts. That's why I copied dmichaels pieced together brake cooling but then used Vorshlags idea of putting them behind the lower grill and cut out some the honeycomb pattern to let the air through. I almost ordered their open lug nuts too as I thought the 17mm head would make it much easier to get a socket in there but again, price plus shipping was too much. Got 25 of the Ford ones for only $24 locally. I'll take it.