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Old May 31, 2006 | 11:25 AM
  #881  
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From: Central Florida
Originally Posted by TacoBill
Being that the Shaker is a cosmetic mod and will be quite visible from the exterior, center positioning of the ram air scoop is essential.

To me, location priority should be given to the hood cut-out and not dictated by where the Shaker sits on the intake plenum.

If the scoop intake isn't centered sitting on the intake, mounting holes will need to be slotted and/or modification to some of the angle brackets will need to be made in order for the scoop to fit evenly within the hood cut-out.

It will be no easy walk in the park for you guys, but when done correctly and not rushed, you'll be rewarded with a straight and evenly mounted Shaker.
I'll take some measurements tomorrow (if nobody beats me to it) and I'll check to see just how centered the plenum is between the edges of the hood. Hopefully it will be pretty close. If not, I hope it is purposely installed off-center with the kit to make it centered in the hood.

Did that guy DonW have a write-up here on TMS, too? I would like to see a write-up showing everything (including what happens with the underhood insulation).
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Old May 31, 2006 | 12:27 PM
  #882  
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From: SoCal
Originally Posted by OKCMustangGT
I have about talked myself into attempting this modification on my own this weekend.
My son is with Grandma for a couple weeks and this would be a chance to have an uninterrupted weekend to complete it. What do you guys think?
(That is if the SnailMail gets here by Friday)
Go for it! (Yeah, easy for me to say )

Although I would follow BSM's directions to the tee, I found this from one of their competitors. It may provide additional insight for the installation.

Two things I'm unclear about from reading BSM's install directions.

1. They say to layout a 1 1/2" masking tape as center and lay the stripe approx. 1/4" away from the tape's edge. Huh? Approximate? I guess I would mark where that 1/4" stripe edge would be at the forward and aft ends and spot check it during the laydown process to ensure it's holding that gap. I guess that's what BSM's talking about.
(On the hood, the washer nozzle cut-out will and should keep that gap at 1/4")

2. Rear fake gas cap emblem. Is the kit supposed to have a gap around that emblem or not? Again, BSM's direction says to hold approx. 1/8" gap around that emblem. It's confusing because I've seen other BSM kits installed where the vinyl goes right up against that emblem.

Besides these two things, it looks pretty straight forward (do a degree).
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Old May 31, 2006 | 01:04 PM
  #883  
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From: Tornado Alley
Originally Posted by TacoBill
Go for it! (Yeah, easy for me to say )
1. They say to layout a 1 1/2" masking tape as center and lay the stripe approx. 1/4" away from the tape's edge.
I wonder what would happen if I use 1½" Masking tape and butt it against it? I think this would cause me to have to trim the pieces around the brake light, emblem and license plate area. I would really rather have 1½" gap as opposed to the 2".
If I have to do 2", I think I will use 2" masking tape and butt it up. You see any problems with that? Maybe getting too close and it sticking to the tape, then when you remove the tape it peels the stripe off ?
Originally Posted by TacoBill
(On the hood, the washer nozzle cut-out will and should keep that gap at 1/4")
Unless you ordered the set without the cutouts, as I did.
Originally Posted by TacoBill
2. Rear fake gas cap emblem. Is the kit supposed to have a gap around that emblem or not? Again, BSM's direction says to hold approx. 1/8" gap around that emblem.
I would assume it is cutout for it. I think they would mention removing it if you had to.
I will take pics of the set when I get it and of course before, after prep, during and after installation photos as well.
Originally Posted by TacoBill
(do a degree).
Is that like Doing a Dew ??
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Old May 31, 2006 | 01:49 PM
  #884  
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From: SoCal
Originally Posted by OKCMustangGT
I wonder what would happen if I use 1½" Masking tape and butt it against it? I think this would cause me to have to trim the pieces around the brake light, emblem and license plate area. I would really rather have 1½" gap as opposed to the 2".
If I have to do 2", I think I will use 2" masking tape and butt it up. You see any problems with that? Maybe getting too close and it sticking to the tape, then when you remove the tape it peels the stripe off ?
I'm not sure if using a 2" tape is a good idea. Like you said, it'll be difficult to not overlap on top of the masking tape. I think the best bet is to mark the 1/4" edge at one end and at the other.

Also, I don't think a 1 1/2" gap would work with this pre-cut kit. If truely pre-cut, it is cut in a way to comepsate for the curves and bumber ledges at a 2" gap. The more you have to cut and trim, you're increasing the chance of ending up with a butchered job.

Having a 12" wide stripe, a 2" gap wouldn't look bad at all (IMO). Now if you're talking about either an 8" or 10" stripe, I'd prefer a 1 1/2" gap.

Originally Posted by OKCMustangGT
Unless you ordered the set without the cutouts, as I did.
I was thinking about ordering the kit WITH the nozzle cutouts. I wonder if it's a 'no gap' fit or there's a 1/8" gap around them. If gapped, I may consider getting it without the cutouts. Only inconvienence is dropping the hood liner and nozzles which I don't think is a big deal.

Originally Posted by OKCMustangGT
I would assume it is cutout for it. I think they would mention removing it if you had to.
It is cutout for the rear emblem. My question is whether the vinyl goes flush up against the outer emblem or will have a gap between the two (in order to maintain the 2" gap).

Originally Posted by OKCMustangGT
I will take pics of the set when I get it and of course before, after prep, during and after installation photos as well.
This is expected from any contributor of 'Ponies on the Run'.

Originally Posted by OKCMustangGT
Is that like Doing a Dew ??
Oops.. I meant, 'To'. I'm a bottled water kind of guy myself.
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Old May 31, 2006 | 03:17 PM
  #885  
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From: Tornado Alley
Originally Posted by TacoBill
It is cutout for the rear emblem. My question is whether the vinyl goes flush up against the outer emblem or will have a gap between the two (in order to maintain the 2" gap).
I am hoping it fits flush, I don't want to see any VB (or TR in your case) between the stripe and the emblem.
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Old May 31, 2006 | 03:23 PM
  #886  
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From: Central Florida
OK, Bill's theme is Torch Red/Polished Accents, and mine is Performance White/Black Accents.

Daryl's theme I'm not sure of... and Susan...not sure if she has a theme?

Anyway... with the shaker being black, roof black, rims black, taillight panel black, and grille inserts black, I'm now leaning toward the CDC chin spoiler being black, too.

I know it would look good white, but I think it would look good black, too... not to mention easier and cheaper...

Opinions?
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Old May 31, 2006 | 03:55 PM
  #887  
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From: Tornado Alley
Originally Posted by 89Trooper
OK, Bill's theme is Torch Red/Polished Accents, and mine is Performance White/Black Accents.

Daryl's theme I'm not sure of... and Susan...not sure if she has a theme?
Oh S** T !! I was supposed to have a theme
Hell I am just getting the stuff I think looks good on my car.
I guess it most closely resembles a Shelby GT500 except spoiler and hood (Stripes, window, scoops, body scoops and rocker panel stripes)
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Old May 31, 2006 | 03:58 PM
  #888  
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From: Central Florida
You forgot to tell me your opinion...
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Old May 31, 2006 | 04:24 PM
  #889  
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From: Tornado Alley
Originally Posted by 89Trooper
You forgot to tell me your opinion...
I would lean toward black, but let me play with ponybuilder.com before I give my final analysis.
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Old May 31, 2006 | 04:45 PM
  #890  
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From: Tornado Alley
Ok now that I see both, I say PW looks better.
If your rockers were black (like a V6) I would say black, but being the way yours is now, I vote PW.
Attachment 1384
Attached Images  
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Old May 31, 2006 | 05:37 PM
  #891  
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You forgot to lower that car!!

Thanks for the comparison. I guess I will worry about that later (but I saved the picture for future reference).

I just printed out CDC's Shaker instructions. I'll read over those to see if I can answer any of my own questions.

I already saw (during printing) that it DOES say that the lower trim ring holds the underhood insulation (blanket) in place.
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Old May 31, 2006 | 06:07 PM
  #892  
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From: Tornado Alley
Originally Posted by 89Trooper
You forgot to lower that car!!
No Crimson interior, no clear turn signals, no upgraded rotors and no mirror inserts, but **** let's be picky
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Old May 31, 2006 | 08:25 PM
  #893  
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Originally Posted by OKCMustangGT
No Crimson interior, no clear turn signals, no upgraded rotors and no mirror inserts, but **** let's be picky
I was going to mention that stuff, but...
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Old May 31, 2006 | 08:28 PM
  #894  
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Originally Posted by 89Trooper
and Susan...not sure if she has a theme?
I have a black antenna and a red Eject button. Does that count?

Originally Posted by 89Trooper
Anyway... with the shaker being black, roof black, rims black, taillight panel black, and grille inserts black, I'm now leaning toward the CDC chin spoiler being black, too.

I know it would look good white, but I think it would look good black, too... not to mention easier and cheaper...

Opinions?
I think you like black and white. like police cars All kidding aside, with all the black accents, and since it's cheaper (ahem...less expensive), I'd go with the black chin spoiler.
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Old May 31, 2006 | 09:45 PM
  #895  
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From: Tornado Alley
Originally Posted by swwake
I have a black antenna and a red Eject button. Does that count?

I think you like black and white. like police cars All kidding aside, with all the black accents, and since it's cheaper (ahem...less expensive), I'd go with the black chin spoiler.
Expensive? Hell with Tom's Financial Reasoning he will devise a way where CDC actually paid him money to buy the spoiler
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Old May 31, 2006 | 09:57 PM
  #896  
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On another note, Daryl, since I'm too lazy to read back a few posts, tell me about your window tint scratches. So did you have the tint installed without the felt, then add felt/velcro softie later? Also, is 15% tint legal in OK? (don't get me started on OK again )
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Old May 31, 2006 | 10:03 PM
  #897  
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From: SoCal
Okay, here's my $.02 on Tom's CDC chin spoiler color.

With all the black accents (and soon to be Shaker) on Tom's vert, I vote Matte Black all the way!
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Old May 31, 2006 | 10:07 PM
  #898  
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From: SoCal
Originally Posted by swwake
On another note, Daryl, since I'm too lazy to read back a few posts, tell me about your window tint scratches. So did you have the tint installed without the felt, then add felt/velcro softie later? Also, is 15% tint legal in OK? (don't get me started on OK again )
Well, I'm obviously not Daryl (I'm the better looking one ), but his tint got scratched up because he didn't have the felt installed.
He somehow worked out the replacement of the damaged tint thru his warranty and this time around had the felt installed.

I'm sure he'll add to this.
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Old May 31, 2006 | 10:25 PM
  #899  
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From: Central Florida
Originally Posted by swwake
I think you like black and white. like police cars
I never thought about that... maybe that's true! But, my police car is silver and blue.

I think the black chin spoiler, too. Both look nice, but with all the other black, I think the black will fit well.

Let's see, $270 for the painted black chin spoiler, -$150 not needed to paint the chin spoiler white takes it down to $120 already. If I can find something to sell for $150, the chin spoiler will cost me -$30!

Daryl, you were right!
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 02:08 AM
  #900  
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heres a write up on how to wire swicted accesories
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showthread.php?t=47184

is there a way to make this tread with more linkage that work so that one can simple look at the top of the thread and easily find the how he/she wants?
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