Third Oil Change... Engine Burning Oil?
4/16/05, 06:16 PM
#41
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This has got to be the worst post that I've ever read.
No one has made any facts about sythetic oil being bad for your car.
Synthetic oil will not hurt your car, and you definately will not seize the bearings from switching back and forth.
Don't be an idiot and listen to these b.s. stories.
I was going to quote so many posts about this topic, but I started thinking that I wouldn't be able to correct them w/out just saying that they were absolute dumb hineyes, so I figured I would just keep my "opinions" about their "opinions / not facts" to myself as they should have.
No one has made any facts about sythetic oil being bad for your car.
Synthetic oil will not hurt your car, and you definately will not seize the bearings from switching back and forth.
Don't be an idiot and listen to these b.s. stories.
I was going to quote so many posts about this topic, but I started thinking that I wouldn't be able to correct them w/out just saying that they were absolute dumb hineyes, so I figured I would just keep my "opinions" about their "opinions / not facts" to myself as they should have.
4/16/05, 07:39 PM
#43
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Originally posted by Martimus@April 16, 2005, 6:10 PM
Ya know... I've said it before and I'll say it again. Threads like this are beyond silly. People can strut and prance around arguing about which oil is better all they like. The bottom line is that its a matter of personal preference and personal belief. Just about every engine oil on the market performs a similar function. Some do their jobs better than others and some cost more than others. Pick the one you like and go with it.
Until the days comes that I see indepent test lab's (oh and that means a lab thats NOT on the payroll of any oil company) produce reports containing meaningful comparisons on engine wear using dino and synthetic oils I'm just gonna stick with what I know and believe to be true.
Ya know... I've said it before and I'll say it again. Threads like this are beyond silly. People can strut and prance around arguing about which oil is better all they like. The bottom line is that its a matter of personal preference and personal belief. Just about every engine oil on the market performs a similar function. Some do their jobs better than others and some cost more than others. Pick the one you like and go with it.
Until the days comes that I see indepent test lab's (oh and that means a lab thats NOT on the payroll of any oil company) produce reports containing meaningful comparisons on engine wear using dino and synthetic oils I'm just gonna stick with what I know and believe to be true.
Try it yourself.
4/16/05, 07:41 PM
#44
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when i had then engine built for my 66 i asked the engine builder which oil to use and he stated not to use sythetic oil " because it` does not allow proper break in " after or around 10k then it would be fine to change.. not taking sides on this matter just telling you guys what i heard from the horses mouth.. also he does nothing but build race engines for dragsters, boats and etc.. i think i would take someones word that does this everyday for a living..
4/16/05, 08:11 PM
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My 2 cents: I'll wait until 5k miles, then I'm going with AMSOIL. With once a year oil/filter changes. That's what my brother did with his '97 GMC (with 5.7 Vortec engine). At 177k miles, it still doesn't use a full quart of oil between annual oil changes (and around 15k miles or so)! Good enough data for me.
4/16/05, 08:26 PM
#46
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Here is a fact to consider....
Quaker State® 10-Year/250,000 Mile Limited Warranty
It is for all of their motor oil not just synthic.
What dose this fact mean for your Mustang?
Quaker State® 10-Year/250,000 Mile Limited Warranty
It is for all of their motor oil not just synthic.
What dose this fact mean for your Mustang?
4/16/05, 08:52 PM
#47
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[quote=OBleedingMe,April 15, 2005, 8:05 AM]
I really don't think that I switched too early. I've made the switch to synthetic plenty of times. Just so ya know, once you switch to synthetic, you CANNOT switch back to regular motor oil after about 100 miles. The synthetic oil "soaks" into the bearings and that's it. If you put regular motor oil in it, the motor oil will foam up rather than lube, which will spin the bearings and sieze the engine.
Eh, I'm probably just being paranoid, lol. I have taken it to the track twice since my last oil change and I've probably showed off with the car a little more than I should have. Having an oil-burning Saturn for five years makes one paranoid about the dipstick, I guess.
Being this is my first Mustang (closest thing I have is a '67 Shelby), I just wanted to be sure this was normal operating parameters for the car.
[/quot
Someone back me up on this but oil is sold as reg, synblend, and full syn
So if you have a little full syn and change to reg and they mix you get syn blend, which you can buy at the store, it is an old maids tail, this stuff about not being able to switch.
I also agree that you should wait longer to change to syn and 10k miles seams resonable, i think the thinner syn oil is what is causing your oil consumption. Dont worry about switching back to reg oil , then let your motor run another 6800 miles then switch and i think you will see far less consumption
I really don't think that I switched too early. I've made the switch to synthetic plenty of times. Just so ya know, once you switch to synthetic, you CANNOT switch back to regular motor oil after about 100 miles. The synthetic oil "soaks" into the bearings and that's it. If you put regular motor oil in it, the motor oil will foam up rather than lube, which will spin the bearings and sieze the engine.
Eh, I'm probably just being paranoid, lol. I have taken it to the track twice since my last oil change and I've probably showed off with the car a little more than I should have. Having an oil-burning Saturn for five years makes one paranoid about the dipstick, I guess.
Being this is my first Mustang (closest thing I have is a '67 Shelby), I just wanted to be sure this was normal operating parameters for the car.
[/quot
Someone back me up on this but oil is sold as reg, synblend, and full syn
So if you have a little full syn and change to reg and they mix you get syn blend, which you can buy at the store, it is an old maids tail, this stuff about not being able to switch.
I also agree that you should wait longer to change to syn and 10k miles seams resonable, i think the thinner syn oil is what is causing your oil consumption. Dont worry about switching back to reg oil , then let your motor run another 6800 miles then switch and i think you will see far less consumption
4/16/05, 08:58 PM
#48
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Originally posted by RRRoamer@April 16, 2005, 8:14 PM
My 2 cents: I'll wait until 5k miles, then I'm going with AMSOIL. With once a year oil/filter changes. That's what my brother did with his '97 GMC (with 5.7 Vortec engine). At 177k miles, it still doesn't use a full quart of oil between annual oil changes (and around 15k miles or so)! Good enough data for me.
My 2 cents: I'll wait until 5k miles, then I'm going with AMSOIL. With once a year oil/filter changes. That's what my brother did with his '97 GMC (with 5.7 Vortec engine). At 177k miles, it still doesn't use a full quart of oil between annual oil changes (and around 15k miles or so)! Good enough data for me.
did you say once a year oil filter change?
You know the problem with all the new oils, mobil1 or any that tell the consumers you dont have to change your oil for 10,15,25k miles it that even though that may be so and the oil can keep its properties for that long the filter is what needs to be changed. All these oils avalible to us these days are great but the fact is that dirt and metal shavings(sometimes) accumilate in the motor and they end up in the oil filter, that is why it is important to change the filter every 3000 miles, all your doing is emtying the trash.
I am not surprise that your brothers trusck is still working hard alot of american trucks last forever even treated worse, but ultimatly you are doing your engine justice by keeping it clean and changing you oil filter.
Danny (have stocks in oil filter company)
4/16/05, 09:20 PM
#49
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Another tip: From the oil samples I have seen, don't waste your money on sythetic blends. They don't perform any better than a standard dino oil. I would recommend Castrol GTX for Dino oil. I haven't checked if they have the proper viscosity for our engines. A good sythetic will perform better than the best Dino oils and will extent your change intervals. I like Mobil 1, but I am going to try Amsoil out soon.
4/17/05, 09:02 AM
#50
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I dont think anyone was even trying to say that synthetic is bad for engines. The only thing it seems stated, is maybe wait a while before doing so. All I know is that if synthetic should be in the car from day one. You would think ford would have used it. As stated before(facts), they are the ones that tested these engines. Therefore my suggestion to all is let the car breakin with what ford supplied since they are the engineers behind this car. Then down the road, sure, I am sure I will be using synthetic or at very least castrol gtx as mentioned. I always loved there oil for my supercharged vw corrado I owned which took 20w50. But I would think ford knows a little more about the car then all of us here stating opinions, and not facts. Good luck to all.
4/17/05, 09:06 AM
#51
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Oil shoud be changed every 3000 miles or 5000 kilometers. I have found in the past that sticking to the manufacter's suggested oil rating is the best. I am not a fan of using Ford Oil but I prefer Castrol GTX.
4/17/05, 09:15 AM
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There is a lot of test data (and no, it is not all from synthetic oil manufacturers!) that shows that good synthetic oils do NOT need to have the oil filter changed NEARLY as often as dino oil does. Due to the way good synthetic oil is made, the oil does not break down the same way so you do not get all the carbon particles in the oil. It is these particles that clog the filter, not metal shavings. Plus, good synthetics do not allow NEARLY as much metal to metal contact or wear as dino oils.
Heck, that is one reason folks recommend that you use dino oils for the first 5k to 10k miles: to better allow the rings to fully break in and seat properly (plus, you STILL need to make frequent initial oil changes even with synthetics because of the high initial wear on the engine as it breaks in. And that is expensive at $5 to $8 a quart!)
Basically, synthetic oils are COMPLETELY different animals than dino oils. All the old wives tales and rules of thumbs just don't apply.
Oh, and for the folks that like to take the middle road with blends, there is one thing to keep in mind: NONE of the blends on the market are 50% dino and 50% synthetic! You are gettting about 6% synthetic at best! But you are paying twice what straight dino oil costs....
Heck, that is one reason folks recommend that you use dino oils for the first 5k to 10k miles: to better allow the rings to fully break in and seat properly (plus, you STILL need to make frequent initial oil changes even with synthetics because of the high initial wear on the engine as it breaks in. And that is expensive at $5 to $8 a quart!)
Basically, synthetic oils are COMPLETELY different animals than dino oils. All the old wives tales and rules of thumbs just don't apply.
Oh, and for the folks that like to take the middle road with blends, there is one thing to keep in mind: NONE of the blends on the market are 50% dino and 50% synthetic! You are gettting about 6% synthetic at best! But you are paying twice what straight dino oil costs....
4/17/05, 10:16 AM
#53
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Originally posted by RRRoamer@April 17, 2005, 10:18 AM
Oh, and for the folks that like to take the middle road with blends, there is one thing to keep in mind: NONE of the blends on the market are 50% dino and 50% synthetic! You are gettting about 6% synthetic at best! But you are paying twice what straight dino oil costs....
Oh, and for the folks that like to take the middle road with blends, there is one thing to keep in mind: NONE of the blends on the market are 50% dino and 50% synthetic! You are gettting about 6% synthetic at best! But you are paying twice what straight dino oil costs....
Here's an interesting tidbit: Ford has been using a synthetic blend ATF called Mercon V since about 1998. It was Mercon IV before. To make Merc IV perform like Merc V, all it takes is 1 oz. of additive per quart of Merc IV! 1 oz.!
My Taurus calls for Merc V, but I put in full synthetic Mobil 1 Merc IV ATF instead. Data sheets show it is superior. I don't mess around with my auto trans. $$$$$
4/18/05, 08:08 PM
#54
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Would someone please get the facts on Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor Oil
and when we should start using it !! Scan it Post it and Forget About It !!!
If I had my owners manual now (Its in the car - Am in my underwear !) I would scan the facts and post them up !
FYI: Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor Oil is what I plan to use as well as a standard Motorcraft Filter. Until my warranty runs out.
and when we should start using it !! Scan it Post it and Forget About It !!!
If I had my owners manual now (Its in the car - Am in my underwear !) I would scan the facts and post them up !
FYI: Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor Oil is what I plan to use as well as a standard Motorcraft Filter. Until my warranty runs out.
4/21/05, 10:31 AM
#55
Originally posted by sodaman@April 15, 2005, 11:11 AM
No didnt say anything like that. I suggest not changing oil several times within 3000 miles. As there is no need for it. At least if your referring to my comment. I didnt say anything about synthetic being bad from factory. Obviously if thats what the manufacturer is putting in them from mile 0, then they have done extensive testing and there bearings, rings etc are designed for it. On the other hand if a manufacturer puts a 50/50 mix for break in, you would think they did it for a reason. Since they did the testing on there engines etc. So vipers, corvettes, etc have there own testing and own parts. Each car and engine is different, and has different quality parts, so I dont even understand how you can compare apples, and oranges. They just arent the same thing. I would like to think of my mustang as a mclaren, but you know what it isnt.
No didnt say anything like that. I suggest not changing oil several times within 3000 miles. As there is no need for it. At least if your referring to my comment. I didnt say anything about synthetic being bad from factory. Obviously if thats what the manufacturer is putting in them from mile 0, then they have done extensive testing and there bearings, rings etc are designed for it. On the other hand if a manufacturer puts a 50/50 mix for break in, you would think they did it for a reason. Since they did the testing on there engines etc. So vipers, corvettes, etc have there own testing and own parts. Each car and engine is different, and has different quality parts, so I dont even understand how you can compare apples, and oranges. They just arent the same thing. I would like to think of my mustang as a mclaren, but you know what it isnt.
4/21/05, 10:44 AM
#56
[quote=donkey,April 15, 2005, 7:27 PM]
The factory oil is a 50/50 synthetic blend. I went to have my oil changed at 10k and was going to switch to synthetic when the service manager told me there was no need...factory was already 50/50. I did not believe him and talked to some of the techs...it is 50/50 saw it myself. Same oil is used in several other Ford vehicles.
Is there any documentation saying it comes with a 50/50 mix, and that is not what the manual recommends, or is it
The factory oil is a 50/50 synthetic blend. I went to have my oil changed at 10k and was going to switch to synthetic when the service manager told me there was no need...factory was already 50/50. I did not believe him and talked to some of the techs...it is 50/50 saw it myself. Same oil is used in several other Ford vehicles.
Is there any documentation saying it comes with a 50/50 mix, and that is not what the manual recommends, or is it
5/1/05, 01:39 AM
#57
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Originally posted by TomServo92+April 21, 2005, 11:32 AM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(TomServo92 @ April 21, 2005, 11:32 AM)</div><div class='quotemain'>
I thought the oil was regular oil, anyway that what I have been told by others. Can anybody clarify what exactly is in the 05 mustang GT on delivery and what exactly does ford recommend for oil in our cars?
Thanks
Originally posted by davids2toys@April 21, 2005, 9:24 AM
<!--QuoteBegin-AJC
<!--QuoteBegin-AJC
@April 10, 2005, 10:18 PM
Actually the oil being used in the new mustang is a partially synthetic oil. Not supposed to be changed for the first 5000 miles.
Actually the oil being used in the new mustang is a partially synthetic oil. Not supposed to be changed for the first 5000 miles.
I thought the oil was regular oil, anyway that what I have been told by others. Can anybody clarify what exactly is in the 05 mustang GT on delivery and what exactly does ford recommend for oil in our cars?
Thanks
Use SAE 5W-20 engine oil.
Only use oils “Certified For Gasoline Engines” by the American
Petroleum Institute (API). An oil with this trademark symbol conforms
to the current engine and emission system protection standards and fuel
economy requirements of the International Lubricant Standardization and
Approval Committee (ISLAC), comprised of U.S. and Japanese
automobile manufacturers.
To protect your engine’s warranty use Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 or an
equivalent 5W-20 oil meeting Ford specification WSS-M2C930-A. SAE
5W-20 oil provides optimum fuel economy and durability
performance meeting all requirements for your vehicle’s engine.
Do not use supplemental engine oil additives, cleaners or other engine
treatments. They are unnecessary and could lead to engine damage that
is not covered by Ford warranty.
Change your engine oil according to the appropriate schedule listed in
the scheduled maintenance guide.
Only use oils “Certified For Gasoline Engines” by the American
Petroleum Institute (API). An oil with this trademark symbol conforms
to the current engine and emission system protection standards and fuel
economy requirements of the International Lubricant Standardization and
Approval Committee (ISLAC), comprised of U.S. and Japanese
automobile manufacturers.
To protect your engine’s warranty use Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 or an
equivalent 5W-20 oil meeting Ford specification WSS-M2C930-A. SAE
5W-20 oil provides optimum fuel economy and durability
performance meeting all requirements for your vehicle’s engine.
Do not use supplemental engine oil additives, cleaners or other engine
treatments. They are unnecessary and could lead to engine damage that
is not covered by Ford warranty.
Change your engine oil according to the appropriate schedule listed in
the scheduled maintenance guide.
HAHAHAHA! Vindication! I had been saying all along that the '05 Mustang GT came with MOTOR OIL from the factory. Not synthetic, not a 50/50 blend, plain old MOTOR OIL! HA!
Yeah, I know, I know. I'm being a little immature - but hey! I'm only 21!
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