TCI Ratchet Shifter Install
12/27/08, 09:02 AM
#1
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
TCI Ratchet Shifter Install
First Impressions and Quality:
First off the quality of this TCI unit is absolutely top notch, it’s an OEM (better actually) quality part. The more I look at all the detail which went into the engineering of this unit, the more I am amazed. For those of you wondering why the unit costs as much as it does, it’s a complete shifter assembly which bolts right into the factory mount points using factory hardware, uses the factory shift cable, factory electronics connector, and requires no modification whatsoever.
Overall the unit has a solid feel and looks absolutely fantastic. From the real leather boot to the billet handle, this shifter is going to grab some attention at shows. This shifter harkens back to the old school ratchet style shifters while providing modern conveniences and style. Before I continue, I would like to add a plug for Doug @ BAMA for shipping me his very first unit. As always, Doug goes above and beyond in taking care of his customers.
Features and Functionality:
Here is how it works. To move shifter from PARK position, you must have the ignition on and depress the brake pedal. Then pull back on Park Release Arm and while holding arm, pull back on shifter handle and put in desired position. To ratchet the shifter, put it in D position and pull handle back to ratchet down one gear. You must ratchet back and forth for each gear. You do not need to hold the Park Release Arm while ratcheting the shifter. To put shifter back into Neutral, Reverse or Park, you must pull back on the Park Release Arm.
The O/D button is located on the indicator strip above park. It’s a flush mount contact style button like the ones used on electronics. Although it’s located on the indicator strip, the button itself does not illuminate and the O/D light in the dash continues to provide an indicator when the O/D is switched off.
There is no cheesy orange “bar” that moves to indicate gear selection, LEDs were used to ensure the gear selection is clearly visible in the daylight hours. They show either amber or white/green and dims when the parking lights are turned on (night).
Because the O/D button is located on the indicator strip, you can replace the shifter handle. It's screwed on a threaded shaft and uses a nut to counter tighten and lock the billet handle into place (for alignment purposes). I really like the one it comes with, and will be keeping it but it is nice to know there are other options out there.
The boot is not an accordion style rubber boot like the concept pictures which were released a couple years back. It’s got a genuine leather boot which seems very well made and is securely attached to the unit.
Installation Tools and Tips:
You will need the following tools to perform a proper installation:
·Access to a lift, or hydraulic floor jack and jack stands.
·Phillips head screwdriver.
·Small, flat head screwdriver.
·Socket wrench with 10MM deep well socket, 7 mm socket, and extension(s).
·Torque wrench (in/lbs).
It’s helpful to review the Ford Service Manuals to familiarize yourself with the steps prior to the install. There are two I would recommend for this particular installation.
1.Selector Lever Removal and Installation: http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=258&viewfil...or%20Lever.pdf
2.Selector Lever Cable Adjustment: http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=257&viewfil...Adjustment.pdf
I’ll cover most of the steps outlined in the service manual during the installation, but some may find the blow out diagrams particularly helpful.
*** Caution ***
The instructions from TCI specify that you should torque the nuts and bolts which secure the shifter with 15 ft/lbs of torque. This converts to 180 in/lbs, which is over twice what Ford recommends in the Mustang Service Manual. Since TCI warned that an incorrect torque would lead to shifter damage, I took their recommendation and ended up snapping a bolt! Please torque to Ford specifications which is 80 in/lbs torque. I’ll have contacted TCI regarding this issue to see if modification needs to be made to the instructions, and will update the thread once I have additional information.
One last thing to note, attaching the shift cable can be a little bit tricky the first time. There is a lock/slider mechanism which allows you to make fine adjustments. Despite my extreme caution in removing and re-attaching the cable while ensuring the shifters and transmission were in the same gear, the alignment was not right and the car would not shift properly. After taking a moment to inspect the mechanism I clued in to the adjustability of the slider mechanism. I ended up disconnecting the cable, returning the shifter to drive, resetting the transmission to drive (three clicks in from full extension), and carefully re-attaching the cable to ensure it was not pulled/pushed any when attaching it to the lever. Once this was done everything worked as expected.
*** Final Install Note***
I ran into some trouble with this install. Between the over torqued bolt which snapped and shift cable adjustment issue, I probably spend an extra hour to hour and a half on the install. Had it gone smoothly (as I hope yours will after reviewing this guide), I would put the install time at 1.5-2 hours.
Also you may notice I removed the controls console located in front of the shifter. I am doing some stereo work and figured I would get back there while I had everything else apart. It is not necessary to remove the console to perform the installation.
Installation Steps:
Step 1: Apply parking brake and put shifter in D position. Disconnect Battery. Raise vehicle and secure with jack stands. NOTE: I only had to raise the front of the vehicle to comfortably access the shift cable.
Step 2: Remove shifter bezel by gently prying up on both sides and ends. Do NOT pry up in one area!
Step 3: Remove top of center console by removing the screws at the rear, under arm rest.
Gently work top section of console up and over the parking brake arm.
Step 4: After removing the top section of the console, remove the center console side panels located under dash at the front of console by pulling straight back and up.
Step 5: Remove the (2) screws at front of console and the (2) nuts inside the storage area under armrest.
NOTE: If there is a power outlet in the rear of the console, be sure to unplug it before removing it!
Step 6: Remove center console.
Now, we get under the car for steps 7 and 8, what fun!
Step 7: Use a flat screwdriver to pry the tab inside the “slide” mechanism which secures the connector to the shift arm and Slide the tab up to unlock the connector.
With the tab in the up position, gently pry the shift cable away from the lever.
Step 8: Using a small screwdriver press the locking ear on the shifter cable locking clip where it protrudes through a small hole in the cable support arm and at the same time push up on the small tab. Do the same to the tab on the upper ear while pulling the cable outward. If top tab does not release, then use the screwdriver to gently pry out of arm. NOTE: Since the tabs are nearly impossible to see when under the car, inspect this same bracket on the TCI shifter to understand how the connector mounts. The job takes two hands so I was unable to grab a picture of this step, however the following picture shows the cable realeased from the shifter assembly.
From back inside the car perform step 9.
Step 9: From inside remove the (2) bolts and (2) screws that are holding the shifter down.
Unplug the plug from the rear passenger side of the factory shifter and pull to the side.
Remove shifter.
Here are some comparison shots between the two shifters.
Step 10: Install new TCI shifter and carefully snug the (2) bolts and (2) nuts down in a crisscross
manner. This per TCI “THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!! Using a torque wrench, torque them down evenly in a crisscross pattern to 15 ft. lbs. If this is not done correctly, damage will occur to shifter! Plug the electrical harness into the shifter”.
NOTE: I snapped a bolt at 15 ft/lbs (180 in/lbs). Consider using 80 in/lbs torque as recommended in the Ford Service Manual.
Step 11: Make sure the TCI shifter is in D and from under vehicle, reattach cable to cable support arm. The job takes two hands so I was unable to grab a picture of this step
Step 12: Align shifter cable end with the shift arm attach. Take care to ensure that you allow the sliding tab to align the shift arm with the cable end. If you even slightly force the cable in or out, the shifter will not function properly. Once attached, lock the cable into position by lowering the locking clip. NOTE: Be careful and do not cycle cable thru the gears when attaching to shifter! If this happens, you must put transmission back into the D (4th gear) position. You can verify this by pulling the cable completely to the rear position. This is 1st gear. Then push cable forward 3 positions. You should feel the detents in the transmission when you do this.
Step 13: Put shifter in PARK position and re-connect battery cables. Turn ignition key on and make sure shift indicator illuminates an amber color in Park only, and that the shifter flows smoothly from Park though drive and test ratchet mechanism. Now you can lower vehicle.
Step 14: Re-install center console pieces and shifter bezel in reverse order of removal in Steps 2-5.
*** Final install pics coming when I complete Stereo install later this week ***
Driving and Final impressions:
The shifter performs as advertised and you don’t lose any factory features or functionality as a result of the install. There are some really nice features that set it apart from the factory unit. Fit and finish are excellent, and although I don’t spend a lot of time manually shifting my auto, it’s a heck of a lot of fun to do with this shifter. Most of all, it’s going to be a great conversation piece at shows.
I had two issues with the installation for which I have contacted TCI. What may be improper torque specs nearly hosed me bad when one of the top two bolts snapped. Thankfully the bolt end was easily reached and could be removed with no damage to the car underbody. I had the exact replacement on hand and had no issues when re-installing the shifter using the Ford recommended 80 in/lbs of torque. The second issue I encountered is that I must ratchet into second (downshifting) quickly or it tends to hang. Some further adjustment may be required and I will update the thread once I have additional information back from TCI.
So would I recommend this shifter? Absolutely, but due to the S197’s already stellar performance in drive performance improvement is not a reason to buy it. If you want to add an element of fun to your driving, eliminate the risk of those embarrassing neutral misses, or simply want to upgrade the factory unit for appearance or materials this shifter is for you. It’s not cheap, but frankly I don’t see how it could be made much cheaper without seriously sacrificing quality. It’s just not a simple auto-ratchet shifter like your dad had in his car.
Tim
First off the quality of this TCI unit is absolutely top notch, it’s an OEM (better actually) quality part. The more I look at all the detail which went into the engineering of this unit, the more I am amazed. For those of you wondering why the unit costs as much as it does, it’s a complete shifter assembly which bolts right into the factory mount points using factory hardware, uses the factory shift cable, factory electronics connector, and requires no modification whatsoever.
Overall the unit has a solid feel and looks absolutely fantastic. From the real leather boot to the billet handle, this shifter is going to grab some attention at shows. This shifter harkens back to the old school ratchet style shifters while providing modern conveniences and style. Before I continue, I would like to add a plug for Doug @ BAMA for shipping me his very first unit. As always, Doug goes above and beyond in taking care of his customers.
Features and Functionality:
Here is how it works. To move shifter from PARK position, you must have the ignition on and depress the brake pedal. Then pull back on Park Release Arm and while holding arm, pull back on shifter handle and put in desired position. To ratchet the shifter, put it in D position and pull handle back to ratchet down one gear. You must ratchet back and forth for each gear. You do not need to hold the Park Release Arm while ratcheting the shifter. To put shifter back into Neutral, Reverse or Park, you must pull back on the Park Release Arm.
The O/D button is located on the indicator strip above park. It’s a flush mount contact style button like the ones used on electronics. Although it’s located on the indicator strip, the button itself does not illuminate and the O/D light in the dash continues to provide an indicator when the O/D is switched off.
There is no cheesy orange “bar” that moves to indicate gear selection, LEDs were used to ensure the gear selection is clearly visible in the daylight hours. They show either amber or white/green and dims when the parking lights are turned on (night).
Because the O/D button is located on the indicator strip, you can replace the shifter handle. It's screwed on a threaded shaft and uses a nut to counter tighten and lock the billet handle into place (for alignment purposes). I really like the one it comes with, and will be keeping it but it is nice to know there are other options out there.
The boot is not an accordion style rubber boot like the concept pictures which were released a couple years back. It’s got a genuine leather boot which seems very well made and is securely attached to the unit.
Installation Tools and Tips:
You will need the following tools to perform a proper installation:
·Access to a lift, or hydraulic floor jack and jack stands.
·Phillips head screwdriver.
·Small, flat head screwdriver.
·Socket wrench with 10MM deep well socket, 7 mm socket, and extension(s).
·Torque wrench (in/lbs).
It’s helpful to review the Ford Service Manuals to familiarize yourself with the steps prior to the install. There are two I would recommend for this particular installation.
1.Selector Lever Removal and Installation: http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=258&viewfil...or%20Lever.pdf
2.Selector Lever Cable Adjustment: http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=257&viewfil...Adjustment.pdf
I’ll cover most of the steps outlined in the service manual during the installation, but some may find the blow out diagrams particularly helpful.
*** Caution ***
The instructions from TCI specify that you should torque the nuts and bolts which secure the shifter with 15 ft/lbs of torque. This converts to 180 in/lbs, which is over twice what Ford recommends in the Mustang Service Manual. Since TCI warned that an incorrect torque would lead to shifter damage, I took their recommendation and ended up snapping a bolt! Please torque to Ford specifications which is 80 in/lbs torque. I’ll have contacted TCI regarding this issue to see if modification needs to be made to the instructions, and will update the thread once I have additional information.
One last thing to note, attaching the shift cable can be a little bit tricky the first time. There is a lock/slider mechanism which allows you to make fine adjustments. Despite my extreme caution in removing and re-attaching the cable while ensuring the shifters and transmission were in the same gear, the alignment was not right and the car would not shift properly. After taking a moment to inspect the mechanism I clued in to the adjustability of the slider mechanism. I ended up disconnecting the cable, returning the shifter to drive, resetting the transmission to drive (three clicks in from full extension), and carefully re-attaching the cable to ensure it was not pulled/pushed any when attaching it to the lever. Once this was done everything worked as expected.
*** Final Install Note***
I ran into some trouble with this install. Between the over torqued bolt which snapped and shift cable adjustment issue, I probably spend an extra hour to hour and a half on the install. Had it gone smoothly (as I hope yours will after reviewing this guide), I would put the install time at 1.5-2 hours.
Also you may notice I removed the controls console located in front of the shifter. I am doing some stereo work and figured I would get back there while I had everything else apart. It is not necessary to remove the console to perform the installation.
Installation Steps:
Step 1: Apply parking brake and put shifter in D position. Disconnect Battery. Raise vehicle and secure with jack stands. NOTE: I only had to raise the front of the vehicle to comfortably access the shift cable.
Step 2: Remove shifter bezel by gently prying up on both sides and ends. Do NOT pry up in one area!
Step 3: Remove top of center console by removing the screws at the rear, under arm rest.
Gently work top section of console up and over the parking brake arm.
Step 4: After removing the top section of the console, remove the center console side panels located under dash at the front of console by pulling straight back and up.
Step 5: Remove the (2) screws at front of console and the (2) nuts inside the storage area under armrest.
NOTE: If there is a power outlet in the rear of the console, be sure to unplug it before removing it!
Step 6: Remove center console.
Now, we get under the car for steps 7 and 8, what fun!
Step 7: Use a flat screwdriver to pry the tab inside the “slide” mechanism which secures the connector to the shift arm and Slide the tab up to unlock the connector.
With the tab in the up position, gently pry the shift cable away from the lever.
Step 8: Using a small screwdriver press the locking ear on the shifter cable locking clip where it protrudes through a small hole in the cable support arm and at the same time push up on the small tab. Do the same to the tab on the upper ear while pulling the cable outward. If top tab does not release, then use the screwdriver to gently pry out of arm. NOTE: Since the tabs are nearly impossible to see when under the car, inspect this same bracket on the TCI shifter to understand how the connector mounts. The job takes two hands so I was unable to grab a picture of this step, however the following picture shows the cable realeased from the shifter assembly.
From back inside the car perform step 9.
Step 9: From inside remove the (2) bolts and (2) screws that are holding the shifter down.
Unplug the plug from the rear passenger side of the factory shifter and pull to the side.
Remove shifter.
Here are some comparison shots between the two shifters.
Step 10: Install new TCI shifter and carefully snug the (2) bolts and (2) nuts down in a crisscross
manner. This per TCI “THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!! Using a torque wrench, torque them down evenly in a crisscross pattern to 15 ft. lbs. If this is not done correctly, damage will occur to shifter! Plug the electrical harness into the shifter”.
NOTE: I snapped a bolt at 15 ft/lbs (180 in/lbs). Consider using 80 in/lbs torque as recommended in the Ford Service Manual.
Step 11: Make sure the TCI shifter is in D and from under vehicle, reattach cable to cable support arm. The job takes two hands so I was unable to grab a picture of this step
Step 12: Align shifter cable end with the shift arm attach. Take care to ensure that you allow the sliding tab to align the shift arm with the cable end. If you even slightly force the cable in or out, the shifter will not function properly. Once attached, lock the cable into position by lowering the locking clip. NOTE: Be careful and do not cycle cable thru the gears when attaching to shifter! If this happens, you must put transmission back into the D (4th gear) position. You can verify this by pulling the cable completely to the rear position. This is 1st gear. Then push cable forward 3 positions. You should feel the detents in the transmission when you do this.
Step 13: Put shifter in PARK position and re-connect battery cables. Turn ignition key on and make sure shift indicator illuminates an amber color in Park only, and that the shifter flows smoothly from Park though drive and test ratchet mechanism. Now you can lower vehicle.
Step 14: Re-install center console pieces and shifter bezel in reverse order of removal in Steps 2-5.
*** Final install pics coming when I complete Stereo install later this week ***
Driving and Final impressions:
The shifter performs as advertised and you don’t lose any factory features or functionality as a result of the install. There are some really nice features that set it apart from the factory unit. Fit and finish are excellent, and although I don’t spend a lot of time manually shifting my auto, it’s a heck of a lot of fun to do with this shifter. Most of all, it’s going to be a great conversation piece at shows.
I had two issues with the installation for which I have contacted TCI. What may be improper torque specs nearly hosed me bad when one of the top two bolts snapped. Thankfully the bolt end was easily reached and could be removed with no damage to the car underbody. I had the exact replacement on hand and had no issues when re-installing the shifter using the Ford recommended 80 in/lbs of torque. The second issue I encountered is that I must ratchet into second (downshifting) quickly or it tends to hang. Some further adjustment may be required and I will update the thread once I have additional information back from TCI.
So would I recommend this shifter? Absolutely, but due to the S197’s already stellar performance in drive performance improvement is not a reason to buy it. If you want to add an element of fun to your driving, eliminate the risk of those embarrassing neutral misses, or simply want to upgrade the factory unit for appearance or materials this shifter is for you. It’s not cheap, but frankly I don’t see how it could be made much cheaper without seriously sacrificing quality. It’s just not a simple auto-ratchet shifter like your dad had in his car.
Tim
Last edited by tdbrown75; 12/27/08 at 09:58 AM.
12/27/08, 09:21 AM
#3
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
12/27/08, 12:32 PM
#5
Well, I think it's worth (of a Taco Bill listing), but I reckon that's up to Taco Bill himself.
Thanks for the VERY detailed post, Tim, I really appreciate it. I'm glad you listed the "negatives" as well... bolt torque, shift-to-2nd issue. When TCI gets back to you on the latter, yes, by all means, please update your post.
I agree with you about the cost; I've worked in factories on both ends of things, assembly and design, and I think you're right, there's just no way this thing could have been made any cheaper... without being, of course, "cheap." My interest is using it for autocross and I just don't think Doug or anyone else has a tune for downshifting for curves/corners, so this shifter would do the trick.
Thanks very much, Tim, for posting everything (to include the pictures, which really help).
Oh... as an afterthought, here, could you maybe post some day/night pictures of the "light performance" of the LED gear indicators for each gear? No rush, just if/when you think about it.
Russ
Thanks for the VERY detailed post, Tim, I really appreciate it. I'm glad you listed the "negatives" as well... bolt torque, shift-to-2nd issue. When TCI gets back to you on the latter, yes, by all means, please update your post.
I agree with you about the cost; I've worked in factories on both ends of things, assembly and design, and I think you're right, there's just no way this thing could have been made any cheaper... without being, of course, "cheap." My interest is using it for autocross and I just don't think Doug or anyone else has a tune for downshifting for curves/corners, so this shifter would do the trick.
Thanks very much, Tim, for posting everything (to include the pictures, which really help).
Oh... as an afterthought, here, could you maybe post some day/night pictures of the "light performance" of the LED gear indicators for each gear? No rush, just if/when you think about it.
Russ
Last edited by Sniper308; 12/27/08 at 12:38 PM.
12/28/08, 11:49 AM
#14
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Thanks for the write-up!!!! All great stuff. If possible, would you be able to post up a video of u driving, and also parking lets say?? It would be a huge service to the mustang community!!!!
12/28/08, 04:19 PM
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12/28/08, 08:19 PM
#17
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12/31/08, 12:36 AM
#20
Cobra Member
Get that baby in yet?? huh huh huh..lol
So after reading your initial notes again I am under the impression that it pretty much works like the stock shifter correct? Or am I missing something.
So after reading your initial notes again I am under the impression that it pretty much works like the stock shifter correct? Or am I missing something.