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Mustangs Coast to Coast

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Old 9/25/09, 10:23 AM
  #19261  
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Originally Posted by Autotooner
but then the ricer boys would start following her....

Did someone say Sean?
Old 9/25/09, 10:36 AM
  #19262  
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Originally Posted by Autotooner
lol... at least I'm not as slow as Arin....
Slow in the head that boy is.

Originally Posted by Autotooner
but then the ricer boys would start following her....
I'll take a muscle car boy over a ricer anyday. Stupid punks!

Originally Posted by 07S197
Gary what Brenspeed Slaeen kit are you running? Is yours a stage 1?
Originally Posted by tom281
Gary's is like a stage 3.5. It is my old kit which I always called the 3.5 because it was a little mix of the three and the four.
I just looked up Stage 4 and the only difference is the pulley.

Stage 4 has a 3.0 pulley at 11-13psi, Saleen Extreme CAI, 39 lb. injectors, FRPP GT500 fuel kit, HTO spark plugs, and the vacuum line kit.

I've got all of that except I'm running the 3.2 pulley which they list as being approximately 11 psi. And I have found that to be accurate.

Tom had cams and no LT headers, I have LT headers and no cams.

When I was piecing it together I knew I wanted the GT500 fuel pumps. I knew I'd want more boost and would need it. So why waste money with a KB Boost-a-pump material and labor.

You can buy the blower like the one that's for sale. It'll be a complete kit. You can then upgrade all at once with the fuel pump and pulleys in the future.
Old 9/25/09, 10:38 AM
  #19263  
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I assume you have 3.55 gears.

I would think the twin screw would be a no brainer. You won't be wishing you had 4.10's like you would with the Centri.
Old 9/25/09, 10:52 AM
  #19264  
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I had a dream last night that i owned a mustang, and i bought a supercharger for it and i accidently bought too small of injectors, so i had to search around to trade my injectors in for bigger ones.
Old 9/25/09, 10:56 AM
  #19265  
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Originally Posted by 2k7gtcs
I just looked up Stage 4 and the only difference is the pulley.

Stage 4 has a 3.0 pulley at 11-13psi, Saleen Extreme CAI, 39 lb. injectors, FRPP GT500 fuel kit, HTO spark plugs, and the vacuum line kit.

I've got all of that except I'm running the 3.2 pulley which they list as being approximately 11 psi. And I have found that to be accurate.

Tom had cams and no LT headers, I have LT headers and no cams.

When I was piecing it together I knew I wanted the GT500 fuel pumps. I knew I'd want more boost and would need it. So why waste money with a KB Boost-a-pump material and labor.

You can buy the blower like the one that's for sale. It'll be a complete kit. You can then upgrade all at once with the fuel pump and pulleys in the future.
I'm not crazy about the KB boost-a-pump at all I like the GT500 idea much better, all about reliabality.

Originally Posted by 2k7gtcs
I assume you have 3.55 gears.

I would think the twin screw would be a no brainer. You won't be wishing you had 4.10's like you would with the Centri.
The crappy thing is that of all the options they checked off on my car they forgot the box for the 3.55's and I have the 3.31's. So either way that has to be changed, but to get to there I want to be with HP/TQ on the twinscrew it will cost me about 2k more in the end. The centri kit will put me there and the only other cost will be a dyno tune.
Old 9/25/09, 10:57 AM
  #19266  
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You may or may not know but I had a base non-cooled Vortech blower, then upgraded to a air-to-air Paxton cooler with the Vortech, and then to the Saleen. The overall horsepower output between the Vortech/Paxton combo was comparable to the Saleen, but the Saleen made an additional 100 lb/ft of torque that the other combo did not make. I would do a twinscrew over again for sure. In fact I'd like to find one for my Mach but Kenne Bell is the only complete aftermarket kit available and it sells for almost $7k.
Old 9/25/09, 11:00 AM
  #19267  
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I should add though that either way you go, you'll be happy...... there is nothing like forced induction on a Mustang.
Old 9/25/09, 12:51 PM
  #19268  
 
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Originally Posted by runningwild4.6
i'm out too! I am going to be soo tired today : 6 am is too soon 5 hrs sleep
Shold have gone to bed like me.
Originally Posted by tom281
You may or may not know but I had a base non-cooled Vortech blower, then upgraded to a air-to-air Paxton cooler with the Vortech, and then to the Saleen. The overall horsepower output between the Vortech/Paxton combo was comparable to the Saleen, but the Saleen made an additional 100 lb/ft of torque that the other combo did not make. I would do a twinscrew over again for sure. In fact I'd like to find one for my Mach but Kenne Bell is the only complete aftermarket kit available and it sells for almost $7k.
If that doesn't help in your decision, there's something seriously wrong with you.

Originally Posted by 2k7gtcs
This is the HU in 7. But it doesn't have Nav. I know where I'm going. Getting a Nav is like stopping and asking for directions. Might as well put on a dress while you drive.

http://www.cheapcaraudio.org/carDVDp..._Receiver.html
Old 9/25/09, 01:13 PM
  #19269  
 
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FRIDAY!!!!!!!!

My dad's bringing home pizza too. It's been so long.


Sean, NEWS NOW!
Old 9/25/09, 01:23 PM
  #19270  
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Originally Posted by 2k7gtcs
Getting a Nav is like stopping and asking for directions. Might as well put on a dress while you drive.

I think we should all have a Gary quote in our sig....
Old 9/25/09, 01:24 PM
  #19271  
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Originally Posted by 07S197
You guys are really into the sound systems uh? To my dismay in the GT i have the shacker 1000 which leave me with no options. and the taurus has 4 blown speakers.

I have not had a car with a system since my 96 SHO that had the factory JBL system with a factory sud that I wired to my box (two 18" punch XLC's & a RF Punch 400 I think). It hit pretty hard and sounded great in the SHO.

Prior to that it was in my Exploder along wit a RF deck and components powered by a RF amp (don't remember what it was). That truck would hit really hard and could bounce a quarter off the roof with the right track.

But now I'm lost as to that whole world and I really wish I didn't have the crappy 1000watt system in the Mustang.
I just want more bass, the treble in the Mach 460 is good enough for me, but the bass I have to crank to the top before it's pounding in my chest, I want that to happen at normal volume
Originally Posted by 2k7gtcs
That's true. Regan's gonna get stuck in a '91 LX in about 2.5 years. The car will be over 20 years old. All her friends are gonna give her **** and she's gonna change her mind and want something 'newer'.
Stuck with? Just make sure to ingrain into her that acceleration is fun, and so is sounding good. But do it smart.
Originally Posted by Blue Notch
Who wants new when you can have a classic.
QFT
Originally Posted by 07S197
Did someone say Sean?
Heyyyy now. If she ain't at least 15 I ain't interested
Originally Posted by Blue Notch
FRIDAY!!!!!!!!

My dad's bringing home pizza too. It's been so long.


Sean, NEWS NOW!
Truck in driveway.

Refer to this post for issues :
Originally Posted by Me on F150 Forum
So I've got a '91 with the I6, and it's having some cooling issues. It's not overheating, but I'm afraid to really test that. The top radiator hose is (obviously) the wrong one, and it almost clamps shut if front of the valve cover sometimes, the thermostat is questionable, and the lower radiator is unknown. The truck is running mostly on water at this moment, because it did overheat on the previous owner (she was up front about her husband not taking too good of care of it) while pulling a boat.

So my question here is, after I replace the t-stat and radiator hoses, then get someone to flush the system, unless me and my dad can do that too, what should I look for if it's not anything that I've replaced?

Sidenote: I've got the towing package, does that mean I have either an oil or trans cooler?
I got an estimate from a really down to earth salemen at goodyear for the t-stat, hoses, flush and a serpentine belt, but that's not needed too badly. When he came out and looked at the truck, the water I was using for coolant was bubbling just a little out of the overflow tank, but has since been good. The gauge on ACCESSORY at goodyear ran up to the M in normal, but when driving, it's never been over the O, so I think that when it's running it cools enough, but I know I need the hoses, and I'll talk to my dad more about it. If we can do the flush here, we'll just do everything, because all the water will be out for a new thermostat anyway, and I save like 225 bucks that way.

OH! And the DMV wanted to charge me $425 to register my truck

They have a $225 first time registration fee for getting a plate for a vehicle, but luckily we had an old plate we could renew, so I saved that $225. This car business is hecksa spensives.
Old 9/25/09, 01:42 PM
  #19272  
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gees sounds like the costs are down in the Death Race series $250.00 to get stage 1 stag 2 and stage 3 for full viewing, but now with Fankenstein out they be needed some talent so thus I can only gather as to why lic plates would cost so much ?
Old 9/25/09, 01:45 PM
  #19273  
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I think sitting here I might have just talked myself into the Saleen...
Old 9/25/09, 01:53 PM
  #19274  
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Ohh boo hoo cry me a river

No really though, my truck might run on tears pretty well...
Old 9/25/09, 02:58 PM
  #19275  
 
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Originally Posted by mustangGT90210
I got an estimate from a really down to earth salemen at goodyear for the t-stat, hoses, flush and a serpentine belt, but that's not needed too badly. When he came out and looked at the truck, the water I was using for coolant was bubbling just a little out of the overflow tank, but has since been good. The gauge on ACCESSORY at goodyear ran up to the M in normal, but when driving, it's never been over the O, so I think that when it's running it cools enough, but I know I need the hoses, and I'll talk to my dad more about it. If we can do the flush here, we'll just do everything, because all the water will be out for a new thermostat anyway, and I save like 225 bucks that way.

OH! And the DMV wanted to charge me $425 to register my truck

They have a $225 first time registration fee for getting a plate for a vehicle, but luckily we had an old plate we could renew, so I saved that $225. This car business is hecksa spensives.
Glad you got out of that. Doesn't sound too bad for problems. Hopefully that's the worst of it.

Oh ya, CONGRATS!!!!!!
Originally Posted by 07S197
I think sitting here I might have just talked myself into the Saleen...
Old 9/25/09, 03:18 PM
  #19276  
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Originally Posted by Blue Notch
Glad you got out of that. Doesn't sound too bad for problems. Hopefully that's the worst of it.

Oh ya, CONGRATS!!!!!!

I hope so. When the goodyear was checkin her out, he couldn't really do much because that would neccesitate having the truck in their garage, costing me money, but the most obvious thing I saw, and he explained was the upper radiator hose. It was actually sucking in like there was a vacuum hooked up to one side. And he's got money on it being the wrong hose, he's sure, 'cause it's too big.

Oh ya, Thanks!!!!
Old 9/25/09, 03:35 PM
  #19277  
 
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Anyone have the link to that blue '05 mustang with the really loud exhaust? I can never seem to find it.

Nevermind, found it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aNEeBPadQiQ

Last edited by Blue Notch; 9/25/09 at 04:04 PM.
Old 9/25/09, 03:54 PM
  #19278  
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Originally Posted by mustangGT90210
I just want more bass, the treble in the Mach 460 is good enough for me, but the bass I have to crank to the top before it's pounding in my chest, I want that to happen at normal volume

Stuck with? Just make sure to ingrain into her that acceleration is fun, and so is sounding good. But do it smart.

QFT

Heyyyy now. If she ain't at least 15 I ain't interested

Truck in driveway.

Refer to this post for issues :


I got an estimate from a really down to earth salemen at goodyear for the t-stat, hoses, flush and a serpentine belt, but that's not needed too badly. When he came out and looked at the truck, the water I was using for coolant was bubbling just a little out of the overflow tank, but has since been good. The gauge on ACCESSORY at goodyear ran up to the M in normal, but when driving, it's never been over the O, so I think that when it's running it cools enough, but I know I need the hoses, and I'll talk to my dad more about it. If we can do the flush here, we'll just do everything, because all the water will be out for a new thermostat anyway, and I save like 225 bucks that way.

OH! And the DMV wanted to charge me $425 to register my truck

They have a $225 first time registration fee for getting a plate for a vehicle, but luckily we had an old plate we could renew, so I saved that $225. This car business is hecksa spensives.
The first, simplest, and cheapest thing I would do is put a new cap on it. If it is weak and it's not holding the system pressure where it needs to be, it won't cool effectively and will push water back out into the overflow tank.

After that I would change the hose and put a thermostat in it ( you guys can do that easily on that truck). Also, that truck should have a clutch fan on it. Make sure it is ok. With that many miles it could be bad. Look around the center of the clutch around the bearing seal and see if fluid has leaked out of it (run you finger around it and look for a thick black goo), and when the truck is completely cold, try to spin the fan by hand. There should be resistance, if you can spin it freely (a hard spin and it keeps on rotating 4 or 5 revolutions) the clutch is bad. They're probably about 25 bucks at Autozone.

Last edited by Rather B.Blown; 9/25/09 at 04:00 PM.
Old 9/25/09, 04:30 PM
  #19279  
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I'm pretty sure the cap is good, my dad took it off and seemed to have some trouble lol. I'll check the price on a new one though, if it's only a few bucks I'll probably get a new one. You're talking about the cap on the top of the radiator, right? 'Cause the cap on top of the overflow tank isn't airtight at all.
Old 9/25/09, 04:46 PM
  #19280  
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Originally Posted by mustangGT90210
I'm pretty sure the cap is good, my dad took it off and seemed to have some trouble lol. I'll check the price on a new one though, if it's only a few bucks I'll probably get a new one. You're talking about the cap on the top of the radiator, right? 'Cause the cap on top of the overflow tank isn't airtight at all.
Yes, the radiator cap. Probably about 5 bucks. And you can't really tell if it is weak just by taking it off. It's got a spring inside that seals the system to about 13psi. If that spring is getting weak it's not gonna hold that much pressure and keep the system where it needs to be. Pressurizing a liquid raises its boiling point. If you lose pressure in the system, the boiling point of the coolant is going to drop.


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