Originally Posted by Blue Notch

Wish I had a TV in my room. We've got three. 46" is taken over by my brother for his video game addiction, 27" in my parents room, and the rest of us are stuck fighting over the 27" tube in the living room.

Originally Posted by Blue Notch

Wish I had a TV in my room. We've got three. 46" is taken over by my brother for his video game addiction, 27" in my parents room, and the rest of us are stuck fighting over the 27" tube in the living room.

Originally Posted by 2k7gtcs

The coolant was moving at all when I looked into the radiator. It just sat there at the level. After getting up to temp all hoses were warm and none collapsed. Not ruling out the temp sender or even the dummy gauge itself but that gauge has worked before and upon returning after the drive those heads were hotter than hell and were melting my rubber valve cover gaskets.

I did pick up a gauge set for water temp, oil pressure, and voltage that I will install under the old ash tray so I will have gauges I can trust.

Timing was correct and set with the spout connector unplugged and then replugged. Also set it at operating temp.

Getting a fuel gauge that will mount on shrader valve on fuel rail so I can confirm fuel pressure.

Headers were sealed well. Thermostat, water pump, radiator have all been confirmed to be good. No clogs in any of the other hoses.

Radiator cap is a new stant 13 lb with relief valve.

Mixture was 50/50 using distiller water. Transmission was working good through all of it.

The temp sender is in the lower manifold above the #5 cylinder. All seals were perfect for water pump, thermostat housing, and lower manifold to heads.

I gave it enough time to try to pass a bubble but I didn't want to do any damage so I idled it down and shut it off after each of these runs.

FWIW coolant levels in radiator and overflow rank were always higher after these drives.

I haven't pulled the heads yet but the motor is out of the truck. It appears the gaskets are installed correctly. There is a tab that sticks out and the number is visible on the top of one tab and note bottom of the other. That's means they flipped it over as they are supposed to do as felpro makes one gasket and it works on both sides.

Originally Posted by AlsCobra

So when it's back in: revving the motor with the cap off, you should see good circulation. The level should drop slightly due to the suction of the water pump. If the coolant level rises while revving instead of dropping, it would indicate air pocket or compression getting into it. Does the thermostat have one of those little air relief holes or valves in the plate of it? A pretty small hole drilled into the plate part of it will not hurt at all either. Wish you wouldn't have pulled the motor already. Oh well too late. I'm still thinking air pocket.

Originally Posted by 2k7gtcs

Meh. Took like 4 hours to pull the motor. No big deal. I'm getting good at it. Hardest part is putting it back and lining it up with transmission. Thank god for those two little guide pins.

The thermostat I had in there did not have the little hole. I picked up a fail safe and already boiled it too. It has the little hole.

I should have just parked on an incline like a ditch and let that air bubble get out with the overflow tank being the highest point.

I'm sure it's fine. I'll get it put back together and get it running this week.

I needed to put stock style motor mounts back in it. The aftermarket mounts raised it a little bit and was causing the new intake to rub under the cowl area above the firewall.

Originally Posted by 2k7gtcs

Game room 65
Living room 60
Bedroom 47
Garage 55
The oldest kids have 37s in their rooms

Originally Posted by AlsCobra

With that hole in the thermostat, you should be able to just keep squeezing the lower hose like a hand pump until all the air is out. Is it a new water pump?

Originally Posted by phiggs54

Jeez Louise. I only have 4 TV's in 3 houses

Originally Posted by 2k7gtcs

Every time I get a new one the old one gets moved down a room.

I just gave away a 32" 720p to a friend who only had one and his broke.

Originally Posted by 2k7gtcs

I think I found my problem.

Either the timing chain gears were off or my harmonic balancer timing marks were incorrect.

I noticed the timing gears didn't have correct marking like they should when I put cover on. And when harmonic balancer came in because it was light grey I covered the markings with summit timing tape exactly were the marks were.

Well I took off passenger side head and sure enough when I turn crank to put cylinder at top dead center I'm off the tape markings. I'm was at about 50 degrees past TDC when it thought I was 10 degrees before. Would this cause overheating at about 40 mph?

Originally Posted by AlsCobra

I'm sure it could. Surprised it was running well at all. The timing gear marks don't line up at tdc?

Originally Posted by 2k7gtcs

Nope not at all.
And with with a counterbalanced balancer that has weight opposite the TDC mark I'm gonna have to reset the timing gears aren't I. Otherwise the crank won't be balanced? Can't just change the tape right?

Originally Posted by AlsCobra

I wouldn't worry too much about the balancer yet. Tdc and the crank mark should be pointing straight up if I remember correctly. Set your cam and crank correctly first. Didn't you get the balancer rebuilt?

Originally Posted by 2k7gtcs

Will do.

I got a rebuilt balancer. Couldn't compare it to te old one because it was thrown.

I will check the crank mark with TDC and go from there might have been an air pocket combined with really bad timing.

When I stabbed the dizzy I put it at about the same mark top dead center should be. I did that before the timing pointer was set. It did run better idling then but I didn't dare drive it because I thought I was so far off.

Originally Posted by 2k7gtcs

How the hell do I know if the cam is on the right time if there is no mark on its gear to line up with the crank mark.

Let me get timing cover off and see what I have.