How had can you push Eibach camber bolts before they break?
#1
Shelby GT350 Member
Thread Starter
How had can you push Eibach camber bolts before they break?
Due to funding limitations, I opted to go with the Eibach camber bolts instead of real camber plates.
I was able to get -1.5*...which is a nice improvement and probably enough for a car that sees road use.
I am running 200 treadwear tires (RE-11s) and I love to flog this car through hard corners...am I risking my life?
Under what conditions are they known to shear?
I was able to get -1.5*...which is a nice improvement and probably enough for a car that sees road use.
I am running 200 treadwear tires (RE-11s) and I love to flog this car through hard corners...am I risking my life?
Under what conditions are they known to shear?
#2
Bullitt Member
Let me start by saying, I don't have the camber bolts on my car, nor do I have camber plates. If I were you, pushing my car very hard at times, I would find some way to get the caster camber plates installed. Just because you can fine tune the tire angle , and save your tires a bit. I don't know the limitations of the camber bolts, but if I had any question about it, I would upgrade.
#3
Legacy TMS Member
I ran them for a few summers without fail. I try no to slow down to much for the turns. I would say they will break if you bounce of a curb the right way at speed. I think you are pretty safe running them.
#4
GT Member
clarified content
Some people say don't worry no problem. Others say there is possibility for damage in the long term. I look at the forums and the opinions are mixed. I called a local suspension shop and they said they installed hundreds of them with no problem.
I have camber bolts but would have preferred the cc plates just for peace of mind.
I had a mild lowering which did not require either cc or bolts. Then the springs settled so I either had to have the bolts, or tear the whole thing down again and have the cc plates put in ($$$$). I should have had cc plates installed on the get go. I'm going to keep an eye on the bolts and next time I'm up in the suspension area, I'll put the cc plates in and put the original bolts put back in.
As for driving off a curb at speed, something is bound to break if not the bolts.
I have camber bolts but would have preferred the cc plates just for peace of mind.
I had a mild lowering which did not require either cc or bolts. Then the springs settled so I either had to have the bolts, or tear the whole thing down again and have the cc plates put in ($$$$). I should have had cc plates installed on the get go. I'm going to keep an eye on the bolts and next time I'm up in the suspension area, I'll put the cc plates in and put the original bolts put back in.
As for driving off a curb at speed, something is bound to break if not the bolts.
Last edited by 14BlackGT; 8/15/15 at 09:26 PM.
#5
Shelby GT350 Member
Based on my experience with bolt design and capabilities (aerospace), they should have plenty of design margin for daily driving.
I would not expect them to hold up to the stresses and fatigue of serious track days, hence why the set I bought never went in because I went to slicks shortly after doing my suspension.
If you daily drive and maybe auto-x, you're fine. They have margin and will not fail in my (expert?) opinion. They are not high strength bolts, like the ARP 210ksi wheel studs, but the OEM ones should be designed with at least a margin of safety of 2.0 I would expect, so the smaller ones should still have a MS of maybe 1.5 or better.
If you're really concerned, try to dig up material specs on them vs OEM and myself or someone on the forum with mechanical and/or materials engineering background can better advise. I never did that research because I refuse to run them for the track driving I do, but (not to be cocky I promise) I drive harder than most others out there.
I would not expect them to hold up to the stresses and fatigue of serious track days, hence why the set I bought never went in because I went to slicks shortly after doing my suspension.
If you daily drive and maybe auto-x, you're fine. They have margin and will not fail in my (expert?) opinion. They are not high strength bolts, like the ARP 210ksi wheel studs, but the OEM ones should be designed with at least a margin of safety of 2.0 I would expect, so the smaller ones should still have a MS of maybe 1.5 or better.
If you're really concerned, try to dig up material specs on them vs OEM and myself or someone on the forum with mechanical and/or materials engineering background can better advise. I never did that research because I refuse to run them for the track driving I do, but (not to be cocky I promise) I drive harder than most others out there.
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