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New clutch installed from ford , pedal soft

Old 9/28/15, 11:23 AM
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New clutch installed from ford , pedal soft

I have a 2014 mustang GT/CS with 14,000 miles on it and just got a new clutch installed from ford , they replaced it due to the slave cylinder leaking , after 2 weeks I got my car back today and my clutch pedal is super soft what could it be ? Could it be that I need to let it break in ? Please get back to me thank you
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Old 9/28/15, 12:15 PM
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Is it shifting ok? I wonder if they didn't quite bleed it well and there is still air in the line. If so it should work itself out over 100 or so clutch applies.
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Old 9/28/15, 12:26 PM
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If by soft you mean that the pedal requires very little effort to operate, then I don't think you have anything to be concerned about. Most hydraulic clutches are easier to push in than mechanically operated ones. On the other hand if you're referring to how firmly the clutch engages when operated quickly, then there could be an issue. The actual engagement should be very firm when operated quickly, no slippage, eg. drag strip shifting speeds. When operated more slowly as in normal everyday driving there will be just enough slippage to keep from squeaking the tires. If you can hear the engine reving up when shifting, but the car's not accelerating proportional to the revs you're either letting the clutch up too slowly or the clutch is slipping. With the car sitting still and the handbrake set firmly push the clutch in and put the transmission in 5 th. and slowly release the clutch. Once the clutch pedal is about halfway up the engine should stall. If not you have a clutch problem.
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Old 9/28/15, 12:48 PM
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It's nothin

Originally Posted by SilrBult View Post
If by soft you mean that the pedal requires very little effort to operate, then I don't think you have anything to be concerned about. Most hydraulic clutches are easier to push in than mechanically operated ones. On the other hand if you're referring to how firmly the clutch engages when operated quickly, then there could be an issue. The actual engagement should be very firm when operated quickly, no slippage, eg. drag strip shifting speeds. When operated more slowly as in normal everyday driving there will be just enough slippage to keep from squeaking the tires. If you can hear the engine reving up when shifting, but the car's not accelerating proportional to the revs you're either letting the clutch up too slowly or the clutch is slipping. With the car sitting still and the handbrake set firmly push the clutch in and put the transmission in 5 th. and slowly release the clutch. Once the clutch pedal is about halfway up the engine should stall. If not you have a clutch problem.
It's not slipping or anything it runs strong ! It's just the pedal is super soft like I could push it down easily , anything I could do to fix it?
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Old 9/28/15, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 5.M0NSTER View Post
Is it shifting ok? I wonder if they didn't quite bleed it well and there is still air in the line. If so it should work itself out over 100 or so clutch applies.
It shifts better , it's just the pedal is soft . What can I do to fix this problem ? I want to stiffin up the pedal
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Old 9/28/15, 06:54 PM
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Try removing the clutch pedal assist spring located below the pedal. Some people do it in order to keep the pedal from sticking to the floor at high rpm. Removing it will result in a stiffer pedal and possibly better feel. There are videos on Utube showing how to do it.
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Old 4/5/16, 11:40 AM
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This happened to me when the dealer pulled the transmission to replace the crank trigger wheel. I thought they screwed something up, but it returned to normal after I pumped the clutch pedal a crazy amount of times.
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Old 4/5/16, 12:15 PM
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That's just air in the lines. They (your dealer or whoever did the install) didn't do a proper job bleeding the lines. If you know how to do it, it should take you less than 5 minutes. If you don't know how to do it, bring it back to them and have them correct their job.
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Old 4/5/16, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by FromZto5 View Post
That's just air in the lines. They (your dealer or whoever did the install) didn't do a proper job bleeding the lines. If you know how to do it, it should take you less than 5 minutes. If you don't know how to do it, bring it back to them and have them correct their job.

It's a self bleeding system. If there's air in the lines then simply pumping the clutch pedal a bunch of times will bleed it out.

There is no bleeding fittings on the clutch system, so there is no other way to bleed them.
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Old 4/5/16, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Moustang View Post
It's a self bleeding system. If there's air in the lines then simply pumping the clutch pedal a bunch of times will bleed it out.

There is no bleeding fittings on the clutch system, so there is no other way to bleed them.
Fair... either way, it sounds like it's not a major issue, so that's good for the OP.

Good luck OP.
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Old 4/6/16, 10:14 AM
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Looked it up in the FSM, they actually want you to use a vacuum pump:

1. Make sure all hydraulic tubes are correctly seated.
2. Make sure the clutch pedal is in the most upward position.
3. Check the fluid level of the brake/clutch reservoir. Fill the reservoir with the specified fluid to the MAX mark.
4. Using a suitable bleeder kit and a Vacuum Pump Kit, install the rubber stopper in the reservoir opening. Make sure the rubber stopper has a tight fit.
Alternate method: use a 50 mm (1.96 in) rubber stopper with an 8 mm (0.31 in) pipe inserted through the rubber stopper.
5. Holding the rubber stopper in place, operate the vacuum pump to 15-20 inches of vacuum. Hold the vacuum for one minute, then quickly relieve the
vacuum. Remove the special tools.
6. Check the fluid level of the reservoir. Fill the reservoir with the specified fluid to the MAX mark. Install the reservoir cap.
7. Depress and release the clutch pedal 10 to 12 times or until clutch pedal effort is consistent and positive at top of clutch pedal travel.
8. Repeat Steps 4 through 6 two additional times or until clutch pedal effort is consistent and positive at top of clutch pedal travel.
9. Install the reservoir cap.
10. Check the clutch pedal reserve. Test the clutch system for normal operation.

Vacuum Pump Kit
416-D002 (D95L-7559-A) or equivalent
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Old 4/6/16, 11:45 AM
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I had the clutch replaced in my 14 Track Package. Replaced due to the ticking noise many 5.0 owners experience. Dealer found noise most prominent from bell housing area so they decided clutch was likely culprit. At that time I was given a 15 to drive. I noticed a completely different clutch feel from that car to mine. I personally disliked it a lot. I was informed by the dealer the clutch was redesigned by so a whole new flywheel, pressure plate, throw out bearing etc was required to do job. When I got the car back my clutch pedal felt very similar to the 15 I was loaned. I assume they basically changed the clutch to 15 parts and thus the difference in pedal feel. I was disappointed in that aspect but have since gotten used to it. It is correct mechanically. Just has more of a disconnected feel.
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Old 4/6/16, 12:07 PM
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^ just curious... was/is the 15 clutch feel stiffer or softer than the 11-14 clutch feel? I much prefer the stiffer clutch feel.
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Old 4/6/16, 01:22 PM
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Very soft. The best I could relate it to was the clutch pedal on a arcade game. I struggled to drive it well because there was so little feedback. Could not feel clutch engagement. Very disconnected feel. I have gotten used to it. But felt like a goof driving away from the dealer. Not that I am an amazing stick driver. But definitely not new to it.
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Old 4/6/16, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 14Glassback View Post
Very soft. The best I could relate it to was the clutch pedal on a arcade game. I struggled to drive it well because there was so little feedback. Could not feel clutch engagement. Very disconnected feel. I have gotten used to it. But felt like a goof driving away from the dealer. Not that I am an amazing stick driver. But definitely not new to it.
Yeah the S550 is weird to drive at first, the clutch is really light and the brakes are extremely touchy. Pretty much the exact opposite of the 11-14s.
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Old 10/6/17, 10:50 PM
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2011 mustang gt

Originally Posted by mfc133 View Post
Looked it up in the FSM, they actually want you to use a vacuum pump:

1. Make sure all hydraulic tubes are correctly seated.
2. Make sure the clutch pedal is in the most upward position.
3. Check the fluid level of the brake/clutch reservoir. Fill the reservoir with the specified fluid to the MAX mark.
4. Using a suitable bleeder kit and a Vacuum Pump Kit, install the rubber stopper in the reservoir opening. Make sure the rubber stopper has a tight fit.
Alternate method: use a 50 mm (1.96 in) rubber stopper with an 8 mm (0.31 in) pipe inserted through the rubber stopper.
5. Holding the rubber stopper in place, operate the vacuum pump to 15-20 inches of vacuum. Hold the vacuum for one minute, then quickly relieve the
vacuum. Remove the special tools.
6. Check the fluid level of the reservoir. Fill the reservoir with the specified fluid to the MAX mark. Install the reservoir cap.
7. Depress and release the clutch pedal 10 to 12 times or until clutch pedal effort is consistent and positive at top of clutch pedal travel.
8. Repeat Steps 4 through 6 two additional times or until clutch pedal effort is consistent and positive at top of clutch pedal travel.
9. Install the reservoir cap.
10. Check the clutch pedal reserve. Test the clutch system for normal operation.

Vacuum Pump Kit
416-D002 (D95L-7559-A) or equivalent
I have a 2011 mustang gt I changed the clutch cylinder and slave cylinder bcuz the clutch was feeling soft or really spongy gears wouldn't go in at all while engine was running I recently had my clutch replaced by the dealer and after 2months it started doing the spongy feel that's why I went ahead and changed both the master cylinder in the pedal and the throw out bearing clutch pedal still feels spongy
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