I fully agree safety first. Two weeks ago I saw a Boxster flip at the track it to had a bolt in cage that came thru the floor pan. The car was totaled but the driver walked away with just a brooken arm. The impact was so great his that the were stress crack where the hans bolted on.

 

Now, if I was in the market for a used Boss 302, I would buy the one with a rollbar over the one without a rollbar. I would feel I am getting something xtra.

 

After seeing your products on a Ford GT, I'm waiting for your solution for the oil cooler and really want to know more about your Bar.

Four point?

If bolt in, will it use the same position to bolt the bar that Ford Welds the main hoop to? Please NOT on the floor!



Cross bar and diagonal bar? Will this be welded into one piece with the main hoop?

Where are you planning to put the down tubes, rear shock tower bolting them together and adding a X across the two rear down tubes?

Or do you get more strenght puting the down tubes on a area that has a Radius are like the wheel well?

I really wish someone made a half cage like this one from "DAS Sport" (But with a diagonal Bar)


Please let us know!

Front side


Rear view

 

I have changed my order to the 1 3/4" dia. hoop. The reason being that the strength is about the same and all my existing brackets are 1 3/4" and I am not going to be running in SCCA solo 1. Just an up date and thanks it will be red. Ikno i have red it on the fourm but hat is the red called on our LS cars. Thanks

 

Color is "Race Red", paint color code PQ

 

Thank you for the color,i will post the mfg. part number when I order today or tomorrow.

 

The paint Nason (Dupont ) Race Red PQ code
Nason #835390 Acrylic Enamel
you can order it qts. and also rattle cans
this paint does not require a clear application

 

not much interest in safety equipment...I know it's not sexy. but I'm bumping this thread to keep it in everyone's head.

spent a couple hours at the race shop today....I think we've found a very good solution for a bar setup that maintains the usability of the rear seat.

We'll probably start work in the next week or two...and I'll post pics / keep you guys updated. I'm bringing <safety> sexy back. ;-)

 

It's not that there's not much interest...I'm sure it is on everybodies mine..or it SHOULD be....until we get pics of the product during and after installation and some feedback from the car owner there isn't much to discuss...I am leaning toward a "bolt in" unit but I may have to get the mounts and main loop from someone and have it customized because I don't want to cut up my interior trim pieces and I want it to look good and be functional.

 

Still interested. Keep us posted.

 

Don- Might I suggest you find duplicate interior trim pieces and cut them up? I think not wanting to hurt trim pieces is a bad excuse for not doing a rollbar right. Bolt in is a pretty weak way to install a rollbar from what I gather. The only rollbar I have is on my dune buggy and it is getting massive reinforcement after my mild roll at VERY low speed.

 

Same here!

 

I didn't mean my comment as a condemnation...sorry if came across that way.

I'd forgotten that I'd moved, without telling you guys, away from the idea of prototyping a product that can be re-sold...after much discussion, we've decided that a purely bolt-in solution won't be satisfactory. We believe we're going to want to do at least some welding...and that precludes the notion of a mass market product.

the main issue is in the placement of the anchoring spots for the bottom of the main hoop. while you can anchor to the floor with bolts and plates, the bar will sit too far inboard for my taste - as it relates to passenger ingress / egress. We're going to try to tie directly to the frame rails....which will require cutting up the plastic trim below the upper seatbelt anchor. We think the anchor points for the rear down bars could be bolted in...just ahead of the shock mount, but if we're already going to be welding....

so we're looking to weld mounting plates on the bulkhead just behind the rear seats...with one removable piece that has two down bars and two diagonal bars tied together in the center. then we'll have a removable harness bar. we think that's going to provide the best combination of safety and usability.

so I'm looking form feedback from others in this thread on how they're approaching it...not looking to sell something.

 

Fuhrius is much more ahead of us and looks to be thinking of a very good solution. We will start on a bar as soon as we are back from track testing the cooler next week. The objective is bolt-in 4-point. Definitely a cross bar and possibly diagonal too depending on the experts and any CAD analysis we may do. Want to minimally have owner installability, improved roll over protection, anchor for multiple-point harnesses, and minimum interior chop up. May be an LS bar only... Not sure about the liability of a bar, back seats, and street-driven. This is a deadly combination, for what could otherwise be a walk-away type of accident. More later.

Fuhrius - keep going!! More than one alternative on the market is always a good thing!!

 

Just make sure it's robust at the mounting points so it won't punch through the floorboards like that Autopower cage at Hallet a couple years back.

 

If I didn't want to use the backseat, we'd plan it slightly differently. I plan to use extensive padding on the exposed sections of the bar. and, because of the welding, we will not attempt to sell what we've made. if it turns out well, I'll be happy to refer you the builder for those of you that are local. (SF bay area)

 

+1 on this that was really bad, he never raced a car again.

 

For sure. Although we are not going to pursue certification, our objective is not just to build a decoration piece.

 

A weld in kit would work for me. Just need the hoop all ready bent (and any other tubes that might need it) and and the weld plates made. I can cut tubes to length and weld the rest. I would like to install a roll bar this winter.

 

Although you're not interested in certification, are you planning to use materials to SCCA/FIA spec? I think latest is .120" wall DOM tubing.