ShaneM

i have my motive power bleeder coming today and my brembo lcf600 turned up last night. i am going to swap fluid this weekend to the new stuff. i just thought of something though, with the clutch and brakes using the same fluid does anyone know if there is anything special that needs to be done on the clutch side to prevent any issues?

If i use the motive bleeder to push all the fluid out of the brake lines via the bleeders on the brakes, will the clutch need to be bled? im not even sure the clutch on these cars has a bleeder. Anyone have any ideas on the clutch with a fluid swap?

2012-LS134

I have had no issues using the Motive power bleeder and the clutch system. Just pump and go. I drain and refill the master cylinder reservoir before hooking up the power bleeder. That saves some bleeding time but mostly reduces the amount of mixing old fluid with new. I use a Mityvac to drain the reservoir.

Fat Boss

I used my little cheesy Mity Vac ( I know you have one ! ) to pull as much out of the reservoir as I could. I then put fresh fluid in and replaced the cap. Pumped the clutch about 50 times in an effort to exchange as much as I could from the clutch line into the reservoir. Then drained the reservoir and put more fluid in.

At this point I put some fluid in the bleeder and connected it. You don't ever want the reservoir to run dry and introduce air to the system.

Next I pumped the bleeder up to about 10 psi and hooked up my catch bottle to the first caliper and opened the bleed screw. I expected fluid to flow since that is how it operates in my 99 F250. I ended up having to pump the pedal to get it to flow. It might have flowed on its own had I upped the pressure in the bleeder. As soon as you see the new fluid come out of the caliper, move to the next one. This is where it's GREAT to use Super Blue fluid.

The catch bottle that Motive sells was just big enough to capture all the fluid I bled from the system. Rinse the bleeder really well with water and hang it up so it dries completely to be ready for next time, when I'll use the Amber (Super Blue but yellow) so I'll know when it's flushed.

Hope this helps. Have fun out there!

ShaneM

interesting, im glad i asked this question, i had assumed you needed to get all the old fluid out before putting new stuff in. my idea on the process was to drain the res with my crap mityvac, then bleed the fluid out and then fill the res and the motive with the new fluid and bleed each caliper.

the brembo fluid is the same color as the crap wilwood im draining, any ideas on when/how to tell when the old fluid is gone? can you tint the new fluid in some way? lol food color FTW!?

Fat Boss

The old school way was to just look at it and when it looks brand new you're good to go. I HIGHLY recommend the Super Blue and Amber though. Unless someone has any data to suggest it's bad fluid I don't know why you wouldn't use it going forward. Here's where I've bought it for years.

http://www.raceshopper.com/ate_brake_fluid.shtml

And for fun you can try to pronounce the word on the can. Sounds like a **** sneeze to me when I try to say it!

ShaneM

for what it's worth I went ahead and ordered some brake pads today. I Ordered the carbotech bobcats for the front on the street, and the XP8 for the rear on the street and track. on the track for the front I we use the RP2 compound which is supposed to be like the XP10 but have a longer pad life. they weren't cheap at about 500 bucks for the set. I did go ahead and have them bed the track pads. I'm hoping this'll fix my brake fade issue. the HP plus pads are only good to about 800° and the XP8 pads are good to about 1600° as are the RP2.