Day 1
#21
Has anyone seen a flip-up front plate bracket? I saw one a few months ago on a Camaro. It basically flips back from a top edge hinge and doesn't restrict radiator airflow. Need to know where to buy one.
Thanks
Thanks
#22
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#23
I've seen many different designs for these - they are very popular with the street rod folks, so I'd start searching street rod / hot rod / license plate accesories, and pick which one works for you - some have to be manually moved into position, others moved from inside the car so if you get pulled over, you press a button and - "see officer, I have a plate..."
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Has anyone seen a flip-up front plate bracket?
I bought this for mine. Here, they ticket for not having one.
Now I just need the car to put it on!
http://search.americanmuscle.com/sea...=mustangtuning
Also, I am picking up the 5-50 syn oil from the dealer to get started on the first oil change.
I found that we can get it here also in Castor brand. $6.99 now on sale at O'Rileys
I bought this for mine. Here, they ticket for not having one.
Now I just need the car to put it on!
http://search.americanmuscle.com/sea...=mustangtuning
Also, I am picking up the 5-50 syn oil from the dealer to get started on the first oil change.
I found that we can get it here also in Castor brand. $6.99 now on sale at O'Rileys
Last edited by jjurgens; 3/10/11 at 03:14 PM.
#26
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My goal is to do as much of the first 200 miles as possible on regular oil. Since I won't be holding high revs, and it won't be cold outside, I'm now thinking the right compromise is 10w40, and of course be careful with her until she's warm.
I think you're right to avoid heavy braking early on: The manual defines burnishing as medium braking (.4 Gs), and recommends you move directly to much harder stops (.85 Gs) if the car already has 200 miles. Sounds like the right answer is try to take it easy on the brakes for 1st 200 miles, and then stomp on em, but try to keep the rotors turning until things cool down.
Think the state troopers will let this slide?
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Here is the reason per http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm:
Q: If break- in happens so quickly, why do you recommend using petroleum break- in oil for 1500 miles ?? A: Because while about 80% of the ring sealing takes place in the first hour of running the engine,
the last 20% of the process takes a longer time. Street riding isn't a controlled environment, so most of the mileage may
not be in "ring loading mode". Synthetic oil is so slippery that it actually "arrests" the break in process before the rings can seal completely. I've had a few customers who switched to synthetic oil too soon, and the rings never sealed properly no matter how hard they rode. Taking a new engine apart to re - ring it is the last thing anyone wants to do, so I recommend a lot
of mileage before switching to synthetic. It's really a "better safe than sorry" situation.
I plan on draining the synthetic out as soon as I get home. Then run 5w-30 or 10w -30 for the first 1500 miles, then drain and start using Fords 5w-50 synthetic.
Q: If break- in happens so quickly, why do you recommend using petroleum break- in oil for 1500 miles ?? A: Because while about 80% of the ring sealing takes place in the first hour of running the engine,
the last 20% of the process takes a longer time. Street riding isn't a controlled environment, so most of the mileage may
not be in "ring loading mode". Synthetic oil is so slippery that it actually "arrests" the break in process before the rings can seal completely. I've had a few customers who switched to synthetic oil too soon, and the rings never sealed properly no matter how hard they rode. Taking a new engine apart to re - ring it is the last thing anyone wants to do, so I recommend a lot
of mileage before switching to synthetic. It's really a "better safe than sorry" situation.
I plan on draining the synthetic out as soon as I get home. Then run 5w-30 or 10w -30 for the first 1500 miles, then drain and start using Fords 5w-50 synthetic.
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Here is the reason per http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm:
Q: If break- in happens so quickly, why do you recommend using petroleum break- in oil for 1500 miles ?? A: Because while about 80% of the ring sealing takes place in the first hour of running the engine,
the last 20% of the process takes a longer time. Street riding isn't a controlled environment, so most of the mileage may
not be in "ring loading mode". Synthetic oil is so slippery that it actually "arrests" the break in process before the rings can seal completely. I've had a few customers who switched to synthetic oil too soon, and the rings never sealed properly no matter how hard they rode. Taking a new engine apart to re - ring it is the last thing anyone wants to do, so I recommend a lot
of mileage before switching to synthetic. It's really a "better safe than sorry" situation.
I plan on draining the synthetic out as soon as I get home. Then run 5w-30 or 10w -30 for the first 1500 miles, then drain and start using Fords 5w-50 synthetic.
Q: If break- in happens so quickly, why do you recommend using petroleum break- in oil for 1500 miles ?? A: Because while about 80% of the ring sealing takes place in the first hour of running the engine,
the last 20% of the process takes a longer time. Street riding isn't a controlled environment, so most of the mileage may
not be in "ring loading mode". Synthetic oil is so slippery that it actually "arrests" the break in process before the rings can seal completely. I've had a few customers who switched to synthetic oil too soon, and the rings never sealed properly no matter how hard they rode. Taking a new engine apart to re - ring it is the last thing anyone wants to do, so I recommend a lot
of mileage before switching to synthetic. It's really a "better safe than sorry" situation.
I plan on draining the synthetic out as soon as I get home. Then run 5w-30 or 10w -30 for the first 1500 miles, then drain and start using Fords 5w-50 synthetic.
But if you look at cars like the Corvette, Viper and SRT8s they all run Mobil 1 from the factory without issue. The only thing I can figure is that the manufacturing process is such that it allows the use of synthetic from the get go. I think the 5.0 in the Mustangs would be the same case with the semi synthetic.
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But if you look at cars like the Corvette, Viper and SRT8s they all run Mobil 1 from the factory without issue. The only thing I can figure is that the manufacturing process is such that it allows the use of synthetic from the get go. I think the 5.0 in the Mustangs would be the same case with the semi synthetic.
#33
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It would also seem, from a warranty perspective, that doing a drain and re-fill would put one at risk of having a powertrain warranty not honored if there was an issue.
#34
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I've drunk the MotoMan kool-aid. After break-in, we should try to collect RWHP data in this forum, and figure out if his approach did anything for the Boss.
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I agree. I ran my GT500 with the synthetic oil from the factory and broke it in like the mototuneusa link says. I've never run anything in it other than 5W-50 full synthetic. My dyno numbers for the given mods are higher than any others I've seen so apparently it all worked just fine. As much as Ford put into designing and testing this motor, if they thought we needed to drain the oil and refill it with non-synthetic for break-in, they would have recommended it.
That said, I glad you have had good results with breaking in with synthetic oil since that will be the oil in the motor for the first 20 -30 miles. If diffidently will not hurt to run organic for 1500 miles. I don't plan on spending extended time at high rpms like you would at a track. Just a bunch of accelerating and de-accelerating.
Last edited by MJockey; 3/12/11 at 01:19 PM.
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BREAKING-IN YOUR VEHICLE
Your vehicle requires a break-in period. Drive your new vehicle at least
100 miles (160 km) before performing extended wide open throttle
maneuvers and at least 1,000 miles (1,600 km) before performance/
competition conditions. Vary your speed frequently in order to give the
moving parts a chance to break in.100 miles (160 km) before performing extended wide open throttle
maneuvers and at least 1,000 miles (1,600 km) before performance/
competition conditions. Vary your speed frequently in order to give the
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Originally Posted by cloud9
Nope, they don't say take it easy. Just avoid constant RPMs and holding it at redline for the first 100 miles. Doesn't say you shouldn't run it up hard and decel the engine hard. Then don't track it until you have 1000 miles.
BREAKING-IN YOUR VEHICLE
Your vehicle requires a break-in period. Drive your new vehicle at least
100 miles (160 km) before performing extended wide open throttle
maneuvers and at least 1,000 miles (1,600 km) before performance/
competition conditions. Vary your speed frequently in order to give the
moving parts a chance to break in.
BREAKING-IN YOUR VEHICLE
Your vehicle requires a break-in period. Drive your new vehicle at least
100 miles (160 km) before performing extended wide open throttle
maneuvers and at least 1,000 miles (1,600 km) before performance/
competition conditions. Vary your speed frequently in order to give the
moving parts a chance to break in.
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