Has anyone seen a flip-up front plate bracket? I saw one a few months ago on a Camaro. It basically flips back from a top edge hinge and doesn't restrict radiator airflow. Need to know where to buy one.
Thanks

 

In particular break in and with changing oil.

 

I've seen many different designs for these - they are very popular with the street rod folks, so I'd start searching street rod / hot rod / license plate accesories, and pick which one works for you - some have to be manually moved into position, others moved from inside the car so if you get pulled over, you press a button and - "see officer, I have a plate..."

 

Thanks!

 

Has anyone seen a flip-up front plate bracket?

I bought this for mine. Here, they ticket for not having one.
Now I just need the car to put it on!
http://search.americanmuscle.com/sea...=mustangtuning

Also, I am picking up the 5-50 syn oil from the dealer to get started on the first oil change.
I found that we can get it here also in Castor brand. $6.99 now on sale at O'Rileys

 

My goal is to do as much of the first 200 miles as possible on regular oil. Since I won't be holding high revs, and it won't be cold outside, I'm now thinking the right compromise is 10w40, and of course be careful with her until she's warm.

I think you're right to avoid heavy braking early on: The manual defines burnishing as medium braking (.4 Gs), and recommends you move directly to much harder stops (.85 Gs) if the car already has 200 miles. Sounds like the right answer is try to take it easy on the brakes for 1st 200 miles, and then stomp on em, but try to keep the rotors turning until things cool down.

Think the state troopers will let this slide?

 

IMO in today's engines dino oil is not a good idea.

 

Here is the reason per http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm:

Q: If break- in happens so quickly, why do you recommend using petroleum break- in oil for 1500 miles ?? A: Because while about 80% of the ring sealing takes place in the first hour of running the engine,
the last 20% of the process takes a longer time. Street riding isn't a controlled environment, so most of the mileage may
not be in "ring loading mode". Synthetic oil is so slippery that it actually "arrests" the break in process before the rings can seal completely. I've had a few customers who switched to synthetic oil too soon, and the rings never sealed properly no matter how hard they rode. Taking a new engine apart to re - ring it is the last thing anyone wants to do, so I recommend a lot
of mileage before switching to synthetic. It's really a "better safe than sorry" situation.

I plan on draining the synthetic out as soon as I get home. Then run 5w-30 or 10w -30 for the first 1500 miles, then drain and start using Fords 5w-50 synthetic.

 

Give it a shot and let us know how that works for you.

 

Haha, the cut license plate is awesome!

 

This is just my opinion here, but I think this is more of a case with rebuilt engines than it is with new ones. The manufacturing process is much more controlled in the OEM environment. When I rebuilt the engine in My Road Runner I ran Joe Gibb break in oil on the dyno. 4 or 5 full power pulls makes the rings seal immediately. I then switched to Valvoline VR-1 dyno oil. After 1000 miles, switched to Amsoil 10W40.

But if you look at cars like the Corvette, Viper and SRT8s they all run Mobil 1 from the factory without issue. The only thing I can figure is that the manufacturing process is such that it allows the use of synthetic from the get go. I think the 5.0 in the Mustangs would be the same case with the semi synthetic.

 

I agree. I ran my GT500 with the synthetic oil from the factory and broke it in like the mototuneusa link says. I've never run anything in it other than 5W-50 full synthetic. My dyno numbers for the given mods are higher than any others I've seen so apparently it all worked just fine. As much as Ford put into designing and testing this motor, if they thought we needed to drain the oil and refill it with non-synthetic for break-in, they would have recommended it.

 

This, to me, says it all.

It would also seem, from a warranty perspective, that doing a drain and re-fill would put one at risk of having a powertrain warranty not honored if there was an issue.

 

Use what Ford recommends, the variable camshafts need the right viscosity to operate the right way…………

 

I've drunk the MotoMan kool-aid. After break-in, we should try to collect RWHP data in this forum, and figure out if his approach did anything for the Boss.

 

No. Trust me on that.

 

I wouldn't put to much weight in the what Ford recommends for break in. They recommend taking it easy for the first 1500 miles and you didn't follow that recommendation. The recommended break in is a safe bet for Ford. Legal would never let them recommend racing around on the street. By the time any ill effects of the recommended break rear there ugly head the warranty will be long over.

That said, I glad you have had good results with breaking in with synthetic oil since that will be the oil in the motor for the first 20 -30 miles. If diffidently will not hurt to run organic for 1500 miles. I don't plan on spending extended time at high rpms like you would at a track. Just a bunch of accelerating and de-accelerating.

 

Doesn't Ford recommend 5w-30 or 5W-20 for the standard GT?

 

Nope, they don't say take it easy. Just avoid constant RPMs and holding it at redline for the first 100 miles. Doesn't say you shouldn't run it up hard and decel the engine hard. Then don't track it until you have 1000 miles.

BREAKING-IN YOUR VEHICLE

Your vehicle requires a break-in period. Drive your new vehicle at least
100 miles (160 km) before performing extended wide open throttle
maneuvers and at least 1,000 miles (1,600 km) before performance/
competition conditions. Vary your speed frequently in order to give the

moving parts a chance to break in.

 

You left out what to do at 1001--------------Drive it like you stole it!!!!!!!