Day 1
#1
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Join Date: March 9, 2011
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Day 1
To kill time waiting... I've been thinking about things I want to do on delivery day:
1) remind the dealer not to put in regular gas
2) initial break in on the way home from dealer (Motoman style - 5 miles) http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
3) change to dino oil
4) more break-in acceleration runs and,
5) brake burnishing process from page 37 of the manual 2012_Mustang_Owners_Guide_Boss_Supplement.pdf
Anybody else thinking of going natural for break-in oil? I can't find a 5W50 non-synthetic, so I think I have to choose between 5W30, 10W40, and 20W50. Since it'll be (hopefully still) warm when I get the car, I'm leaning toward 20W50
1) remind the dealer not to put in regular gas
2) initial break in on the way home from dealer (Motoman style - 5 miles) http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
3) change to dino oil
4) more break-in acceleration runs and,
5) brake burnishing process from page 37 of the manual 2012_Mustang_Owners_Guide_Boss_Supplement.pdf
Anybody else thinking of going natural for break-in oil? I can't find a 5W50 non-synthetic, so I think I have to choose between 5W30, 10W40, and 20W50. Since it'll be (hopefully still) warm when I get the car, I'm leaning toward 20W50
#2
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#3
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Join Date: February 25, 2011
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if I were you I'd ask them NOT to do the dealer prep (cleaning/detailing) and do it yourself, or else you'll be paying people like me $500-$1000 to get the swirls and holograms out that the lot-monkeys at the dealer put in.
for those picking up Kona Blue w/ torsen and recaro option, please treat it nicely and take care of it for the next year until I can buy it from you.
for those picking up Kona Blue w/ torsen and recaro option, please treat it nicely and take care of it for the next year until I can buy it from you.
Last edited by smbstyle; 3/10/11 at 01:37 AM.
#5
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Already told mine!
Also, recommend strongly that you put a couple of hundred miles on the brakes prior to burnishing them. They need a few dozen heat cycles first. I've warped big money rotors by burnishing them too early....
Also, recommend strongly that you put a couple of hundred miles on the brakes prior to burnishing them. They need a few dozen heat cycles first. I've warped big money rotors by burnishing them too early....
#6
Team Mustang Source
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#1 item. BE THERE when it is off-loaded. #2. Keep every bit of paper work that is stuffed in various places. #3 Photo document it at delivery to the dealer. #4 Tell them exactly want you do NOT want them to do, and what you do want. Do NOT let them deviate. Your S/C needs 100 miles before will kick in anyway, so as noted above...careful with the brakes!!!
Oh and fuel: You're correct. Take a slip form them to their gas station of choice, but do it YOURSELF, do not trust them to do the right thing.
Oh and fuel: You're correct. Take a slip form them to their gas station of choice, but do it YOURSELF, do not trust them to do the right thing.
#9
Cobra Member
Why change the oil?...Please 101 me.
#10
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Im sorry, did you say S/C, as in supercharger? lol. If someone has a Boss where a S/C kicks in at 100 miles, send the supercharger fairy my way!!
#11
To kill time waiting... I've been thinking about things I want to do on delivery day:
1) remind the dealer not to put in regular gas
2) initial break in on the way home from dealer (Motoman style - 5 miles) http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
3) change to dino oil
4) more break-in acceleration runs and,
5) brake burnishing process from page 37 of the manual 2012_Mustang_Owners_Guide_Boss_Supplement.pdf
Anybody else thinking of going natural for break-in oil? I can't find a 5W50 non-synthetic, so I think I have to choose between 5W30, 10W40, and 20W50. Since it'll be (hopefully still) warm when I get the car, I'm leaning toward 20W50
1) remind the dealer not to put in regular gas
2) initial break in on the way home from dealer (Motoman style - 5 miles) http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
3) change to dino oil
4) more break-in acceleration runs and,
5) brake burnishing process from page 37 of the manual 2012_Mustang_Owners_Guide_Boss_Supplement.pdf
Anybody else thinking of going natural for break-in oil? I can't find a 5W50 non-synthetic, so I think I have to choose between 5W30, 10W40, and 20W50. Since it'll be (hopefully still) warm when I get the car, I'm leaning toward 20W50
Today's engines are built to tighter clearances,and a thick oil would do damage,by not flowing properly.
These engines also don't need a prolonged break-in period.
Stick with a 5W base type viscosity. The Synthetic 5W50,is designed for easy flow,when engine is cold,and the higher RPM and oil temps.
All new engines are coming with either a synthetic blend or full synthetic oil.
#12
Legacy TMS Member
To kill time waiting... I've been thinking about things I want to do on delivery day:
3) change to dino oil
Anybody else thinking of going natural for break-in oil? I can't find a 5W50 non-synthetic, so I think I have to choose between 5W30, 10W40, and 20W50. Since it'll be (hopefully still) warm when I get the car, I'm leaning toward 20W50
3) change to dino oil
Anybody else thinking of going natural for break-in oil? I can't find a 5W50 non-synthetic, so I think I have to choose between 5W30, 10W40, and 20W50. Since it'll be (hopefully still) warm when I get the car, I'm leaning toward 20W50
#14
Tasca Super Boss 429 Member
Join Date: December 18, 2010
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I have too. My dealer told me they never install the brackets on special order cars which means I'll be reminding them several more times once my car has been shippepd.
I plan on dropping my oil after about 500 miles and will run full synthetic, probably Redline.
I plan on dropping my oil after about 500 miles and will run full synthetic, probably Redline.
#16
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I've done both. When I lived in Cali, I went without but didn't have a problem. Here in SC, we don't have front plates, nor vehicle inspections...love it!
#17
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There's one here in CA but they don't harrass you. My last ticket, in a speed trap with a dozen officers, was over two years ago and the officer did not even mention that I didn't have a front plate. Regardless if I needed to run a plate I'd buy a bracket that mounts under the front bumper instead of on the front of it.
#18
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Next best thing is to do a few wide open blast for a couple of seconds under load, but do not lug the engine. Row through the gears, get it up into third and lay into it for a second. Do this a few times and your good to go (same with an auto)