Brake upgrades for the track after reviews
#561
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Good luck. I sent them an email and they do not have any in stock. DBA hasn't had them in stock for months and isn't planning on doing so until October at the earliest.
#562
#564
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#565
are there left and right part numbers for DBA rotors? or does their vane design call for the same rotor on both sides?
autoanything has a 15% discount (coupon code: welcome15) for first time buyers. if they honor that and you're not in california, i think you can have a set for around $700 last time i checked. i'm not sure if they're in stock or if there are different part numbers for both sides though.
http://shop.autoanything.com/brakes/61A6515A0A0.aspx
EDIT: never mind--same part number for both sides. per their website: "Universal slot design Eliminates the need for left and right discs"
Also, Autoanything just drop ships, so if DBA is out of supply until November, then autoanything won't get you far.
autoanything has a 15% discount (coupon code: welcome15) for first time buyers. if they honor that and you're not in california, i think you can have a set for around $700 last time i checked. i'm not sure if they're in stock or if there are different part numbers for both sides though.
http://shop.autoanything.com/brakes/61A6515A0A0.aspx
EDIT: never mind--same part number for both sides. per their website: "Universal slot design Eliminates the need for left and right discs"
Also, Autoanything just drop ships, so if DBA is out of supply until November, then autoanything won't get you far.
Last edited by neema; 8/4/12 at 03:27 PM.
#566
Bullitt Member
Originally Posted by neema
are there left and right part numbers for DBA rotors? or does their vane design call for the same rotor on both sides?
autoanything has a 15% discount (coupon code: welcome15) for first time buyers. if they honor that and you're not in california, i think you can have a set for around $700 last time i checked. i'm not sure if they're in stock or if there are different part numbers for both sides though.
http://shop.autoanything.com/brakes/61A6515A0A0.aspx
EDIT: never mind--same part number for both sides. per their website: "Universal slot design Eliminates the need for left and right discs"
Also, Autoanything just drop ships, so if DBA is out of supply until November, then autoanything won't get you far.
autoanything has a 15% discount (coupon code: welcome15) for first time buyers. if they honor that and you're not in california, i think you can have a set for around $700 last time i checked. i'm not sure if they're in stock or if there are different part numbers for both sides though.
http://shop.autoanything.com/brakes/61A6515A0A0.aspx
EDIT: never mind--same part number for both sides. per their website: "Universal slot design Eliminates the need for left and right discs"
Also, Autoanything just drop ships, so if DBA is out of supply until November, then autoanything won't get you far.
#567
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Okay you track gurus, another question for you.
Just finished the Boss Track attack with my father in law, I drove the school GT and then the FR500. The instructors frequently mentioned the "Grand-Am" level brakes on each car, though they looked like the standard Brembo caliper to me. They run the PFC 01 and 97 pads, F/R.
The rotor was a beefy two piece, with curved small slots, and looked fairly similar to my StopTech two piece rotors. The instructors said they were a "floating" rotor design, and responsible for the clunk/tapping noise and feedback while driving around the paddock.
Are these different than standard StopTech (or Brembo, or DBA) style two-piece rotors?
Just finished the Boss Track attack with my father in law, I drove the school GT and then the FR500. The instructors frequently mentioned the "Grand-Am" level brakes on each car, though they looked like the standard Brembo caliper to me. They run the PFC 01 and 97 pads, F/R.
The rotor was a beefy two piece, with curved small slots, and looked fairly similar to my StopTech two piece rotors. The instructors said they were a "floating" rotor design, and responsible for the clunk/tapping noise and feedback while driving around the paddock.
Are these different than standard StopTech (or Brembo, or DBA) style two-piece rotors?
#568
User GT350 has done all the research on this, search his posts
Edit: Here is his link on BMO: http://bossmustangsonline.com/boss-3...oss/?topicseen
Edit: Here is his link on BMO: http://bossmustangsonline.com/boss-3...oss/?topicseen
Last edited by 06GT; 8/20/12 at 09:35 AM.
#569
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Thanks Drew! Those GiroDiscs are way pricey for the FR500, not so bad for stock.
Just FYI to neema, I asked StopTech about using GT500 rotors on my ST40 kit, they said no-go, different offset as you surmised. I assume it's the same going from StopTech Aerorotors built for the ST40 caliiper, to the Brembo caliper -- won't work.
I do have the specs on the ST40 rotor somewhere at home if you're interested.
Doesn't look like GiroDisc has a direct StopTech kit rotor, though I wonder if it's much better than my current StopTech two-piece, which cost about the same.
Just FYI to neema, I asked StopTech about using GT500 rotors on my ST40 kit, they said no-go, different offset as you surmised. I assume it's the same going from StopTech Aerorotors built for the ST40 caliiper, to the Brembo caliper -- won't work.
I do have the specs on the ST40 rotor somewhere at home if you're interested.
Doesn't look like GiroDisc has a direct StopTech kit rotor, though I wonder if it's much better than my current StopTech two-piece, which cost about the same.
Last edited by CO_VaporGT_09; 8/20/12 at 11:48 AM.
#570
The Roush Performance Grand Am teams use Performance Friction Zero Drag ZR54 calipers, Z rated rotors and PF Carbon Metallic pads. For the rear they use the stock Mustang caliper and normally use Hawk HP+ pads.
#571
Just FYI to neema, I asked StopTech about using GT500 rotors on my ST40 kit, they said no-go, different offset as you surmised. I assume it's the same going from StopTech Aerorotors built for the ST40 caliiper, to the Brembo caliper -- won't work.
I do have the specs on the ST40 rotor somewhere at home if you're interested.
I do have the specs on the ST40 rotor somewhere at home if you're interested.
not that it's important, but i wonder what the difference between caliper and wheel clearance is on the stoptechs vs brembos. from what i've seen, the mounting location of the brembos seems more outboard than some other cars (nissan 350/370z, hyundai genesis, bmws). it makes some wide wheel fitment a little tricky unless the chose wheel deliberately has copious amounts of brake clearance (i.e. enkei pf01).
just to clarify, the options for more affordable 2 piece rotors are DBA and girodisc, correct? i need to pull the trigger soon and want to make sure i'm not spending $100s more than i need to.
#572
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Shelby, but drilled I believe:
http://www.cjponyparts.com/baer-fron...7-2012/p/BR44/
http://www.cjponyparts.com/baer-fron...7-2012/p/BR44/
#573
Shelby, but drilled I believe:
http://www.cjponyparts.com/baer-fron...7-2012/p/BR44/
http://www.cjponyparts.com/baer-fron...7-2012/p/BR44/
#574
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I've always read in the Baer literature (who makes the "Shelby" labeled pieces) that they will do them in drilled or slotted, yet rarely if ever see slotted advertised for sale.
Maybe a call to them would help.
I contacted the GiroDisc guys and they were quite willing to make ones for my caliper, just needed a loaner disc to measure everything.
Maybe a call to them would help.
I contacted the GiroDisc guys and they were quite willing to make ones for my caliper, just needed a loaner disc to measure everything.
#575
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Thread on the Shelby forum, but have to sign in to see pictures:
http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/ind...gt500-2261031/
http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/ind...gt500-2261031/
#577
Does anyone know if having a set of OEM rotors turned and then used for track will be an issue? I'm in the process of replacing pads and rotors and planned to keep the stock rotors for track use after turning them.
#578
Bed the brakes properly after you get the rotors back on, shouldn't be a problem. I've done this with my cars a couple times. I was using EBC Yellowstuff pads, so not full-bore "track" pads.
#579
Bullitt Member
You need as much mass as possible to absorb the extra heat generated on track. Although I'm sure you are not removing a large amount of material when you turn them, you will still be more likely to either warp or crack them.
Although if you aren't pushing it hard and have fairly mild pads, you will probably be OK with the turned rotors on track. Just keep an eye on them.
#580
Bullitt Member
Originally Posted by Dean#4AI
Honestly, I would use the turned rotors for the street and the new rotors for the track.
You need as much mass as possible to absorb the extra heat generated on track. Although I'm sure you are not removing a large amount of material when you turn them, you will still be more likely to either warp or crack them.
Although if you aren't pushing it hard and have fairly mild pads, you will probably be OK with the turned rotors on track. Just keep an eye on them.
Use the turned ones for the street and then properly bed the new pads and season the rotors for the track. Having the different heat paints on the dba rotors really helped get them seasoned (they got HOT!!!). Ill look back through my subscribed threads to where the viper club link was on breaking in new rotors. Maybe it was this one? Lol. On my phone so ill edit this with a link soon
Here's the link from Cloud9, it was this thread: https://themustangsource.com/f813/br...9/#post6204047
Last edited by mtnbikefuel80; 10/1/12 at 01:52 PM.