Also I cannot see anything wrong w/ your slotted set from those pics.

 

Cool! Won't be getting slotted ones again, not worth the cost and I noticed no difference in braking.

I do wonder, though, anyone have experience with the cryo-ed blanks vs non-cryo?



Over the winter I'll have to replace my front slotted one-piece rotors (street use now) that came with my original StopTech kit. I'm gonna grab the standard replacement rotors for the OEM Brembo brakes, see if they'll fit. Only potential problem I can see is if the offset from the Brembo to the StopTech isn't the same.

 

No experience w/ cryo-treated, probably snake oil IMO.

 

I have used the cryo. rotors in the past and work fine but I don't think they are worth the money unless you can get a bunch of racer together to have them done at one time. I have how ever found that when I purchase rotors I make sure they are from the same batch of cast iron. The quality changes from one batch to the other greatly. But that is just me.

 

Those look pretty normal for rotors that see a lot of heat. A couple questions:
1: Are you using brake cooling ducts at all?
2: What type of pad are you using?
3: Do you "season" your rotors prior to using them on track?
The pad taper you are experiencing can be coming from the caliper starting to spread. After a lot of heat cycles, the calipers can start to spread open. It may be time to replace them.

 

Thanks!

Have cooling ducts in the front, these are the rears. Haven't seen anyone with rear ducting, though was wondering if that's a good idea or possible.

Using EBC Bluestuff pad, next year switching to Hawk DTCs front and rear.

I typically use the first morning session to bed in the new pads or new rotors if they've been replaced, but don't do anything before the track weekend. Have separate rotors for track/street. What do you suggest for seasoning? Paprika?

 

Allspice is best IMO

 

As far as the tapering, I have seen it when the piston wasn't aligned properly. Are you sure the piston was oriented so the key slots are as shown here to fit into an alignment pin on the back of the inboard brake pad? (the pin is circled on the outboard pad below)

I took these pictures from another writeup someone did.

 

I follow this procedure for seasoning, although I do prefer Lawry's

http://www.oregonviperclub.org/bedding_rotors.htm

 

That "pin vs. pocket" alignment is CRITICAL.

The easiest way to get into trouble here is when re-using pads; if you compress the piston all the way in, it will rotate before it makes contact w/ the pad! So you need to be careful to only compress it enough to get the re-used pads in-place.

Same caution needs to be taken with new pads, but it is less likely due to the increased thickness of the newer pad being much closer to the fully-compressed depth of the piston.

 

I kind of thought snake oil too, but I've been running a set of cryo-treated DBAs all season and they're still not toast. I have a set of replacement rings for the front that weren't cryo'd so I guess next year I'll find out how they last compared to this set. 18 track days and 1850 miles on the current cryo-treated fronts and they're still going. Oh and I'm not exactly easy on brakes, I'm on my 4th set of DTC70s this year

The rears have hardly even started to heat check yet so I'm guessing I'll get two full seasons out of them.

 

Interesting! Can you post some pictures of the rotor faces?

Also--do you drive on those rotors/pads to and from the track?

 

Car's covered and put away until later this week but I'll try to snap some. I trailer everywhere I go since it's at least a 3-5 hour drive and always bring spare wheels/tires and parts along.

 

I agree, have Powerslot cryo-treated on the rear and they look very nice after 8 track days on them. I am being told these cyro Powerslots will fit our Brembo's 126.61089CSL 126.61089CSR. If so I will replace my front with them when the time arrives.

 

Hey Scott do you know if they make a 2-piece front?

 

I doubt it, at least nothing I have found. there are few choices for the Mustang fronts with Brembos. The DBA's, Brembo slotted and non-slotted and the 120.61089 Centric rotors (Powerslot) also if the slotted ones I mentioned above are for real.

 

$146 @ LPI:

http://www.lpiracing.com/126-61089CS...176p169638.htm

The 120.61089 (or 126.61089) is the correct # for the Brembo's, the letters indicate any treatment (slot, or cryo and slot).

http://extranet.soleniuminc.com/Cent...09&m=54&mm=688

 

That's gotta be it -- I think I've realized that's there for a purpose from time to time, but I doubt consistently, especially when pressed for time at the track, and have probably just jammed it in and tilted the pads, radially or longitudinally/circumferentially.

Thanks for pointing it out!

 

This is what I'm using for fronts...just blanks! Cheap and effective.

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...nt-Brake-Rotor

 

No problem Josh. I figured it out the hard way too Look forward to meeting you at MPH.