No truer words have ever been spoken.

 

2012 YellowBoss, repeat after me: "Hi, my name is Scott, and I'm a trackoholic". It happens to everyone I'm afraid. Scott, you're just going to have to realize that you bit the apple and now you're hooked. You will stop buying food, or maybe pawn your wife's wedding ring just to get that next set of tires

 

Can someone point me in the direction of what theses restrictor plates are....? Thanks.

 

If only these were jokes

 

https://themustangsource.com/f813/an...5/#post6079958

https://themustangsource.com/f813/ex...=exhaust+discs

I can stop anytime I want to, just don't want to right now.

 

"You can earn a small fortune driving a race car. If you start with a large fortune."

 

Does anyone know of any vendors that sell PFC01/97s?

 

Zeckhausen (No 97s): http://store.zeckhausen.com/catalog/...1_90_1946_1949

TopBrakes (both): http://www.topbrakes.com/searchResul...&category_id=2

Fronts are D1001, rears are D1082. The first link I posted is for a GT500 but the fitment is the same.

 

Dang, pricey, though not as dear as the Ferodo...

 

Thanks.....stupid question! I am just used to them being referred to as discs.....

 

Y'all see the most recent GRM?? Review and lap times of 6 makers, on a prepped M3.

1. Cobalt CRB XR1 ($468)
2. PFC 01 ($450)
3. Hawk DTC70 front, HT10 rear (only maker that sent split compounds) ($473)
4. Essex CL ($447)
5. Porterfield R4 ($390)
6. EBC Bluestuff ($301)

The driver said it may have been different if Hawk hadn't sent split compounds (sounds like they're shooting themselves in the foot with some of their recommendations recently).

 

Gonna order my DTC60s for the fronts tomorrow. Gonna run w/ the stock rear Boss pads. I hate changing rear pads.

 

interesting,

i have been running the cobalt csr on my rx8 for a while. did not mention it as the weight difference between cars.

i will say the csr is amazing. great on the track, and fine to and from. has not been real hard on rotors. but get the dust off the wheels fast when you are done.

beers

 

To me the 70/60 combo is the way to go on a Mustang. I have tried other pads but nothing compares to that combo for me.

 

I ran this setup last weekend. Other than shooting dust out the side in huge plumes, zero issues. This was without brake ducting (installing that today).

 

I run a split of DTC60 (F) & HP+ (R) for the track, and cannot be more pleased. I leave the +'s on the rear all summer, but swap out the fronts at the track.

 

Do you swap front rotors also?

 

I do not swap the rotors, I have been using Hawk HPS pads for the street for many years now and the compounds are compatible to swap back & fourth. I just need to do a quick re-bedding when I put the DTC's back on before hitting the track. In an ideal world, you should really swap the rotors at the track so they only ever see one type of pad. I have never had an issue doing this though.

 

I've run the 70s in the past and they definitely work, but the 60s have less initial bite so I can get on the brakes a bit smoother and also have less likeliness to trigger the ABS. Temperature range is the same on both 60s and 70s.

One thing I did note with the 70s is that you could "tune" the amount of initial bite by closing off the cooling ducts partially (or completely). No cooling = massive initial bite. Full cooling, less bite, but then they heat up and really dig in. Somewhat unpredictable in that fashion. I ended up running w/ the duct inlets blocked off halfway w/ the 70s and it was a good medium.

 

I think I'll go the 60 front, HP+ in rear to start out next year, definitely a bit cheaper than full DTCs all around. If it's too much understeer, just move up to 60s in the rear as well, should be a decent combo as well.

The EBCs have worked fine for me this year in the learning stages, but I've already exceeded them several times, getting deeper and deeper pedal drops in some brake zones, definitely a good way to ruin a lap. But, nice and cheap, not bad dust, and they're easy on rotors.