wonger

I'm guessing that's also because Chrysler's are crap. Along with their engineers. Nice that Roush had to dig into an engine issue for them a couple years ago to solve the problem.

kws6000

Ford will survive w/o your business...lol

Since the vast majority of customers leave their cars stock,Ford isnt going to cry over some enthusiasts who blow up their cars and move on when Ford denies warranty coverage...


I dont know of any manufacturer who will pay knowingly for damage caused by aftermarket tunes....


It stands to reason that 412 hp from this 5.0 l is pushing the envelope....If it werent,Ford wouldnt have made as many durability improvements to the boss 302...

Turboba6

Well at 3400lbs, and slightly More horsepower, Vettes are Faster Period, if my New Vette goes the Standard 12.0's in Cold Weather, 12.2's in Warm weather, well theres NO NEED to tune, for me Anyhow...AND there are VERY VERY Few to NONE cases of Tune Only Vettes (Reputable Tuners that is) Blowing Up!!!

StangFreak

I have a Z06 and there are several cases of the LS7 going kaboom from bad tunes. None that I have read about with the LS3. The LS7 is just like the new 5.0L in that both seem to be pretty well maxed out from the factory and don't need a tune.

danman_s

I road raced a Z06 vette for years and based on my experience with other vette owners, tunes were extremely common and the owners always accepted the fact that they were going to need to stick in a new engine sooner or later.

The fear of tunes is common no matter where you go. Heck, I remember when the LS7 came out that everyone was scared of it as well since it was so high strung and guys kept blowing them up using forced induction, etc, etc. And now I keep seeing 800 hp+ Z06's that are extremely reliable. It just takes time to figure out the quirks of the engine before hitting the sweet spot.

stangfoeva

This.

dunarze

Just a quick noob question since I don't want to create another thread. I realize that people don't "know" whats causing the exact #8 issue. But could replacing the GTs stock pistons with forged pistons solve the problem?

Slims00ls1z28

Reliable LS7's are easy. Change the cheap cast pistons to forged units and blammo. The 5.0 probably would benefit from the same and probably has cast pistons (just guessing I really don't know what the 5.0's use) for the same reason, cold start up emissions. Works fine in stock form but turn up the wick and viola a barely tamed lion waiting on that one bad tank of cheap gas, and since like alot of v8 designs #8 is the hottest because of the coolant travel path.... Me personally I wouldn't want to thin out a 11.0 compression on pump gas anyway, even with the electronics that's pushing the envelope IMHO. When I had my Camaro tuned I told them specifically not to make it so imperitive to use 91 because I've been to stations which set off my check engine light in stock form. If I wanted more power I relied on parts not the tune.

Swoope

wont solve the problem of a crappy tune. but likely would not fail. dont see the point of spending ~2500 bucks to replace pistons to cover a 200 dollar crappy tune.


beers

2012GT

Here's your fix folks.

unas2k5

Do you think if Ford works on my car it would cost $2500?

unas2k5

Here is a quote I got:


Okay, I put a build together.

Full race, 1200hp at the tires safe. Full block prep, fully studded, oil system mods, billet pump, Diamond pistons, oliver rods, King rod bearings, Ford main brgs. valve job, high RPM custom valve springs, nitride crank, 5w50 synthetic oil. Includes remove and install engine. $9650.

If you wanted to cut costs, but lower safe HP range, can use Manley rods and pistons. That would probably save $700. Diamond and Oliver are both local to Michigan and higher quality/stronger than Manley.

Now if the block is damaged, and needs to be bored, that will add up to more costs for maching. Probably around $400.

I can also run it in a bit on the dyno, light load, light pulls to seat the rings and check it all over for leaks or issues.

If you wanted to add a Roush blower at that time, I'd give you a screamin deal at the same time and include the install. $5750 more.

Vortech, as received in the box, extra $5400 installed at same time.

later..

BlackOut2k11

That's a good quote considering the quality of the internals you're getting.

Imatk

Remember when you're doing your build that even though your motor might be able to handlx xxx RWHP doesn't mean your clutch, transmission, and rearend will be able to handle it.

My advice would be to not get caught up on numbers.

Figure out what your goal is for the car... is it going to be a street car primarily that you want to have fun with occasionally at the strip?

Is it going to be a track car? Drag strip car? Etc.

Once you determine that then you can go from there.

When builders say "1200 hp at the tires safe" it's kind of a misnomer. Again "safe" is a relative term. Built motors can blow (and do) just like stock ones can.

Make sure you get a good and reputable builder (ask a lot of their customers how their builds went) and then make sure you relay to them what your intentions are for the car.

If it's going to be primarily a street car then you could save that 700 bucks and probably some headache with supporting mods.

unas2k5

Thanks guys... Im not sure what Im going to do but I am waiting on another quote. I really don't want to spend 10k on this. I'm thinking about it. I would be saving some money if I went ahead and had them install a SC at the same time...But that'll be 15k... or I could just go back to stock and get a Steeda tune or something..hmm unsure. I'll let you guys know what I decide to do.

The transmission is good for over 1000 (TR6060)... Mcleaod Twin disc clutch is good for about 800HP. I sent him a reply asking him how much it would cost for just the labor on that one MMR rotating assembly:

($1200 good for 1,000 HP).

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...-boss-mmr.html


This is a street car..My goal is around 700WHP.

Rather B.Blown

Well if that was your goal, I'd say at this point you would have been better off buying a GT500 and a TVS, KB, or Whipple and calling it a day. But I guess its a little late for that now.

unas2k5

Stock block with a Vortech can handle 630WHP @ 6 pounds of boost...That would've been great. If I build the motor It can handle much more boost then that...

How is it late? You mean if I fix my motor to even stock no one would buy my car? I think I can get 35K+ for it w/Tr6060 and mods...

StangFreak

I'd look at how much it would cost to make your car right vs buying a GT500.

unas2k5

I would rather have my car then a GT500 actually... Not looking into getting one.

Rather B.Blown

I was just saying that after everything that has happened and the money you've already spent plus what you're going to have to spend, you would have been better off buying a GT500 to begin with if your goal was a streetable, reliable, 6-700 hp Mustang. My saying its too late for that was more of a "hindsight is 20/20" kind of thing.

As far as what the stock 5.0 will handle, well that remains to be seen and is mostly speculation. There's no long term data on how they will hold up years down the road, its a new combination. Just because a few people have done it and they haven't grenaded yet doesn't mean it isn't on the horizon. Whereas the GT500 has years of data with the cars making massive power and being fairly reliable with it. I'm not knocking the 5.0, I'm just saying that this early in the 5.0 modding game, its way to soon to be sure what the future holds when you throw boost at it in stock form.

As far as you being able to sell it? I'm sure someone will buy it. But not for what you think its worth. Any money you have spent on the tranny etc. is gone. Not to mention what it will cost just to repair it to stock, and the massive depreciation since it is now basically a brand new car that has no warranty and has been pieced together with non-original parts. Add all that together plus the price of the car and I would say you are well into GT500 with a blower upgrade territory.