Thank you so much for your tips and help! I thank you from the bottom of my heart, and I will keep you updated. Thank you very, very much!

 

You are Quite Welcome!

We Would Love To See Some Pics of Your Car! We Really Like When We Get Some Pics in Local Settings of Other Countries! Also Like To Hear Your Story of How You Got Your Mustang & Motivation Behind it!

We Have Another Mustanger Who is Fairly Regular From Germany as Well!

Oops! Denmark!

https://themustangsource.com/forums/...tor-dk-136427/

If You Feel Like it You Could Post Here!

https://themustangsource.com/forums/f650/


KC

 

This Topic Maybe Helpful it Talks About The Side Shield and The Like. Its Good To Know How it's Attached!

KC

https://themustangsource.com/forums/...umbers-549349/

 

Thanks for the YT link. I will look around further in the forum and familiarize myself with the topic.

 

I had the pins on the connector measured earlier. There was only current/voltage from pin 1 and 7. All other pins were dead. I also checked the fuses, and they were fine. How would you interpret that?"

 

I'm No Electrician By Any Means But Looking At Connector 360 Where The Seat Control Switch is Plugged in it Should Be Hot at All Times With Pin 4 Always Being Hot and Pin 2 Being Ground. I Would Have Switch Unplugged To Test. Of Course Checking Body Side of Wiring. Wiring Pdf Seems To Indicate That as Well.

See if That Checks Out.

Again Lumbar Motor Pulls From Same Power Supply. So You Said it Was Working But it May Not Need as Much Power To Function. How Many Volts are You Reading When testing?

Pins 1&7 Are Driver Height Up & Down. Seems Odd To Me Both Would Be Hot at Same Time or Are You Cycling Switch When Testing??

Are You Checking With Switch Plugged in??

BTMO

Oh and Had a Thought, Since You Have Power Passenger Seat You Should Be Able To Cross Check Things on Other Side.

I See We are Dealing With Quite a Time Difference. It's 1:30 in the Afternoon Here and 10:30 In The Evening For You!

Just FYI.

KC

 

Okay, I will have it measured again tomorrow. A neighbor of mine did the measurement; he does something professionally with IT electrical engineering. I'll ask him again for the measurements. Should I then remove the seat switch from the passenger seat and try it out? I could also have the measurement taken. I ordered the new switch from Amazon; it was sealed and is a no-name China switch. The original switch has Ford Canada written on it. However, it also doesn't work despite cleaning.

I live in Berlin, the capital of Germany. Which city and state do you come from?

 

I will have the measurement carried out again tomorrow and then ask again about pins 1 and 7 and how the switch behaved.

 

I'm Dead Center of California in a Smaller Town Called Visalia.

I Would Consider China Switch Suspect. I Have Had Issues With Off Shore Parts Myself. On Older Cars Many Times I Was able To Disassemble Both Seat & Window Switches and Repair. Usually it Was Just a Bad Contact and Needed Cleaning, Light Sanding, Filing Etc. Usually Though Those Switches Had Partial Function With Only One Feature Disabled. The Newer the Car The Less Likely A Subcomponent Can Be Repaired.

Never Tried To Dig into a S-197 Mustang Switch. Perhaps a Check At The BJB Underhood Fuses For a Voltage Check of Driver Vs Passenger Side For Voltage Could Shed Some Light. Also When Checking That Operate Which Ever Seat Switch and Check Your Readings When Switch Activated. Should Show a Reading! That May Shed Light Before Having To Start Pulling Seats.

Trying Your Driver & Replacement Seat Switches on Passenger Side Would Be a Good Test To Check Switches!

I Think i Would Try This First!

looks Like They are The Same!

https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts...tra2=&filter=()

KC

 

I have this switch.

 

The Cross Reference Part Number Matches The Oem Number. Unfamiliar With Brand.

Certainly if Either Switch Works Correctly on Passenger Side it's a Wiring or Track Issue.

Got To Thinking If You Are Pulling Seat Tracks in & Out and Your Car Has Seat Airbags. It Might Be a Good Idea To Depower Them. Here is Process!

Also SJB Fuse Locations

Kc

 

Hey, ich muss mich nochmal korrigieren. Ich habe dir letztes Mal falsche Werte zu den Pins und Messungen angegeben. Die korrekte Information lautet daher: Wie auf dem Bild zu sehen, habe ich die Pins vier und zwei gemessen, und am Stecker für den Sitz liegen 12 Volt an. Ich weiß nur nicht, wie ich den elektrischen Sitzschalter im eingesteckten Zustand messen kann, um seine Funktion zu prüfen (siehe Foto).





Dann hätte ich noch eine Frage: Kann man eine manuelle Sitzschiene einbauen? Ich überlege, ob ich eine einbauen sollte, wenn ich eine manuelle Sitzschiene bekommen könnte, weil es für mich einfacher wäre und ich keine Angst haben müsste, dass die Motoren irgendwann wieder kaputt gehen. Ich habe hier im Forum gelesen, dass das schon mal jemand gemacht hat – die elektrische Sitzschiene gegen eine manuelle getauscht. Hat jemand Erfahrung oder kann mir weitere Tipps oder Links zu Händlern geben, bei denen ich so eine manuelle Sitzschiene bekommen könnte? Das wäre für mich durchaus eine Option.

Mein Werkstatttermin ist erst Anfang Juni. Ich habe ein ganz ungutes Gefühl, dass mich das Ganze mit der elektrischen Sitzschiene um die 2500 Euro kosten wird. Es wäre für mich wirklich eine kostengünstigere Alternative, wenn ich eine manuelle Sitzschiene bestellen und diese dann selbst einbauen könnte.

 

TRANSLATION

Hey, I have to correct myself. I gave you incorrect values ​​for the pins and measurements last time. So, the correct information is: As you can see in the picture, I measured pins four and two, and there are 12 volts at the seat connector. I just don't know how to measure the electric seat switch while it's plugged in to check its functionality (see photo).

Then I have another question: Can a manual seat rail be installed? I'm considering installing one if I could get one, because it would be easier for me and I wouldn't have to worry about the motors breaking down again at some point. I read here in the forum that someone has already done this – swapping the electric seat rail for a manual one. Does anyone have experience with this or can give me further tips or links to dealers where I could get a manual seat rail? That would definitely be an option for me. My appointment at the workshop isn't until the beginning of June. I have a really bad feeling that the whole thing with the electric seat rail will cost me around €2,500. It would actually be a more cost-effective alternative for me if I could order a manual seat rail and then install it myself.

 

Power Seat Track Best Buy I Can Find!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/30621652337...Bk9SR5SnwovNZQ


Manual Seat Track

https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts...tra2=&filter=()

Handle

https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts...61753-aac.html

Handle Cover

https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts...62768-aaa.html

Conversion Sight Shield

https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts...tra2=&filter=()

I Would Think The Power Track I Listed on Ebay Could Be Installed Just About The Same as Putting in a Manual. With a Manual You Will Also Need Recline Lever and New Sight Shield. With a Manual You Will Lose The Height Adjustment as Well. Nice To Have on Drivers Side.

I Doubt if You Get a New Power Track That You Will Ever Have it Go Bad Again. It's Looking Like It's a Track Issue and What Exactly Has Gone Bad I Can't Tell. It Does Not Sound Like You Are Too Comfortable With Trying To Dig into on a Piece By Piece Repair.

It Looks Like A Used Manual Seat Track Would Be Hard To Find For Drivers Side and a Manual Is Not Much More Cheaper NEW Vs Power So Again Going Back With What You Have in New So as Not To Get an Already Partially Used Up Power Track is The Way To go!

KC

Here is a Related Thread Which Has Pdf's on How The Seats are Put Together.

https://themustangsource.com/forums/...t-eyes-549492/

 

[ZITAT=05stangkc;7091700]Elektrische Sitzschiene – der beste Kauf, den ich finden kann!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/306216523375?_skw=AR3Z-6361711-A&epid=1911160838&itmmeta=01JSMBGJE0ESKB7BS9ECC2X3 AB&hash=item474bed566f:g:ftoAAeSw0QJn7Zj8&itmprp=e nc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1f5v%2FP23Gwqn2U 2c65Ad%2BW4JcInYNDUYEsgymA6iGVCoo0%2Bgc QJc5eTYYr%2Fi9%2F0El4eS0DnhUfPKZfTyGcOBUSEVSL--AIL%2ByoC3wXZCcT34kM3F%2FpxsTHrhWFV6k7Ee3L1KhRiag7 7nK8FVicGs47Td8PiOJEcxqcb GQOdI2duELBiu1v7briTdkvW30yk9cUZr%2BBW7h39IKWKoSgQ tECZfQLmiXkhNTii5VGc4aMpAUSvStFV4RtQhWTreDEieo0%3D %7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5SnwovNZQ


Manuelle Sitzschiene

https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-track-asy-seat_cr3z-6361711-a.html?vin=&make=Ford&model=Mustang&year=2011&subm odel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=( )

Griff

https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts...61753-aac.html

Griffabdeckung

https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts...62768-aaa.html

Umbau-Sichtschutz

https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-shield-asy_br3z-6362187-ba.html?vin=&make=Ford&model=Mustang&year=2011&sub model=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=( )

Ich würde denken, Die elektrische Schiene, die ich bei eBay angeboten habe, ließ sich fast genauso einbauen wie eine manuelle. Bei einer manuellen Schiene brauchen Sie auch einen Neigungshebel und ein neues Sichtschild. Bei einer manuellen Schiene geht außerdem die Höhenverstellung verloren. Gut für die Fahrerseite.

Ich bezweifle, dass eine neue elektrische Schiene jemals wieder kaputt gehen wird. Es sieht nach einem Problem mit der Schiene aus, und ich kann nicht sagen, was genau kaputt ist. Es hört sich nicht so an, als ob Sie sich damit wohlfühlen, eine Reparatur Stück für Stück durchzuführen.

Anscheinend ist eine gebrauchte manuelle Sitzschiene für die Fahrerseite schwer zu finden, und eine manuelle ist neu nicht viel billiger als elektrisch. Also greifen Sie wieder auf das zurück, was Sie neu haben, um keine schon teilweise verbrauchte elektrische Schiene zu bekommen.

KC,

hier ist ein verwandter Thread mit PDFs dazu, wie die Sitze zusammengesetzt werden.

https://themustangsource.com/forums/...t-eyes-549492/ [/QUOTE]

Hallo, liebe Grüße nach Kalifornien. Vielen Dank für deine Antwort und deine Informationen. Ich muss einfach abwarten, was mir der Werkstattmeister im Juni sagt. Leider fehlen mir die Räumlichkeiten und die technischen Möglichkeiten, eine genaue Untersuchung durchzuführen. Spätestens im Juni werde ich die Ursache herausfinden und dann weitersehen...

Die Idee mit der manuellen Sitzschiene war nur so eine Überlegung, aber naja, preislich wäre sie vermutlich genauso teuer wie eine elektrische, wie du schon sagtest.

Wie dem auch sei, wenn es teuer wird, dann ist es eben so, und ich werde es akzeptieren. Ich liebe den Mustang, er ist wirklich ein wunderschönes Auto, und ich möchte mich bemühen, ihn technisch in einem guten Zustand zu halten.

Ich werde Sie auf dem Laufenden halten, wie die ganze Geschichte ausgegangen ist.

 

Translation

Hello, best wishes to California. Thank you for your reply and your information. I'll just have to wait and see what the mechanic tells me in June. Unfortunately, I don't have the space or the technical capabilities to conduct a thorough investigation. I'll find out the cause by June at the latest and then see what happens... The idea of ​​the manual seat track was just a thought, but hey, it would probably be just as expensive as an electric one, as you mentioned. In any case, if it's going to be expensive, then that's how it is, and I'll accept it. I love the Mustang; it's truly a beautiful car, and I want to make every effort to keep it in good mechanical condition. I'll keep you updated on how this whole story turns out.

I Hope All Turns Out Well!

Best Regards,

KC

 

@Drive707

I Have Been Thinking About The Track For The Last Couple of Hours & It Just Seems Like You Should Be Getting Some Function Out of One of The Motors. Did You Check The Plug Coming Right out of The Motor As Shown in My Track Pics??? If Not I Would Make Sure it is Clean & Tightly Connected. Maybe at Some Point The Seat Was Removed and When Reinstalled it Was Not Snapped Together Properly. Other Than That I'm Wondering If Something Was Under The Seat or Wiring Got Cut By Seat Movement at Some Point in Regards To Motor Operation. Anyhow Just Had The Thought You Should Have Some Movement Even a Tiny Bit, Not a Completely Dead Seat since you have Power at the Correct Pins.

Also Note How The Plug is Pinned to The Motor Bracket. If Yours is No Longer Pinned I Would Suspect Wires Maybe got Fouled & Pulled.

Kc

 

I could only get my head under the seat, but couldn't really see much. The cables I saw appeared to be intact. But as I said, I couldn't see too much because the seat is very low to the ground. I also had a very hard time reaching with my hand because it's too cramped. I could unmount the seat. Should I or better yet, disconnect the battery? Because of the airbag, etc. My question would be, will anything in the system be changed or reset if I disconnect and reconnect the battery?

 

Hello,

I Was Not Thinking About Space /Access Considerations so Much as Far as That Connection. Sorry. I Was Looking At Bare Track!

In Regards to Simply Disconnecting Battery. It Should Be Done But Only After Depowering Air Bags as Described in SRS PDF. Also Consider When Disconnecting Battery That Windows Unless Rolled Down Won't Allow You To Shut Doors Properly Due To Window Drop Down Feature.

Also Whenever Disconnecting Battery Some Things Will Be Reset Such as PCM/ECM Emission System. That is Always a Consideration Here in California When Say You Had a Emission Check Due and Car Had Dead Battery. After Replacing a Drive Cycle Would Have To Be Completed Which is Some On Off Regular Driving over a Couple of Days For The Most Part. Car Functions Fine But Simply can Not Be Checked Correctly For The Smog Check. Anyway Just an Example. Unless Car Has Some Other Module Issue Everything Resets and Goes Back To Normal After Driving Usually. Just an FYI!

Also on a Side Note Sometimes When a Module Related Issue Pops Up a Simple Battery Disconnect For 5 Minutes or So Can Fix Issue. In The Case of Your Seat Track I Would Not Call That Module Controlled To My Knowledge But Thought You Might Ask!


Disconnecting the car battery does not automatically disable airbags, but it is a crucial safety precaution when working on airbag systems. While the battery is disconnected, the airbags can still be triggered by stored energy in capacitors within the system, even if the vehicle is not running. To safely work on airbags, it's essential to disconnect the battery, wait for capacitors to discharge, and follow manufacturer's guidelines.

Having Worked at Dealerships For 30+ Years I Always Especially When it Comes To A Safety Issue Go With The Factory Advised Process. An Old Habit Which Has Served Me Well. Surely at Times Others Have Done Work Which Allowed Some Short Cuts away From Factory Advised Process But I Feel You Need To Advise & Inform Taht Sometimes Shortcuts Can Have Bad Results.

See Post 31 FOR SRS Depower

If You Just want a Quick Look At That one Connection I Was Talking About Then Removing The 4 Bolts From The Track To The Floor Could Allow You Some More Visual Access To Connector. However If You Want To Go Ahead and Remove Seat From Car & Will Be Unhooking Everything Then a Depower Sequence Should Be Followed.

If You Decide To Do The Removal or Flip Forward Some Pics Might Provide Some Clues To Issue. Maybe, Maybe Not.

I Know You Had Kind of Stepped Back & Was Going To Let Dealer Check Out and That is Fine, I Just Had This What I Thought Would Be a Quick Little Check!

Whichever Way you Go we Will Be Here!

KC

 

Thank you for the very detailed information. It's worth gold; there are many things I didn't know before. I wanted to leave that to the Ford mechanic because he knows a lot about the Mustang, especially the 5th generation. He is one of the few mechanics in my city who even repairs such cars. I prefer not to take any risks because I'm not that technically savvy. In addition, regardless of the seat problem, I wanted to send the car for inspection. A pre-check for the official technical inspection, which also includes the emissions test, in October. The information about the PCM/ECM exhaust system is important; I didn't know that either. That's why I don't want to take any risks, because the emission values must be correct and accurate when I have to go for the inspection in October. I think it's better if the mechanic disconnects the battery. He also has access to the system. I'm a bit cautious because I'm afraid I could mess something up, but as you mentioned, that doesn't have to happen. It should actually not be a problem to loosen the four screws in the seat rail that connect to the floor a bit so that I can lift the seat a few centimeters. That shouldn't cause any problems with the airbag, should it? I don't even need to disconnect the battery for that.