Upcoming Audio Build - Detailed w/Pics and Data
6/17/13, 08:36 PM
#41
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I think you would either have to get a premium door panel, or you could surface-mount the JL's, but I'd confirm the depth first. There's a 2"(ish) ring where the subs live in the doors, and a baffle behind the panel to act as an enclosure.
You could probably make a ring, or maybe even buy one online somewhere. Take your door panel off and see if your door has the hole near the bottom corner to accommodate the needed depth, you could always make a fiberglass back box if necessary...
You could probably make a ring, or maybe even buy one online somewhere. Take your door panel off and see if your door has the hole near the bottom corner to accommodate the needed depth, you could always make a fiberglass back box if necessary...
6/17/13, 09:14 PM
#42
Legacy TMS Member
The passenger side door was simple - the only issue is the tweeters are so large, the locking ring wouldn't fit, so I had to make the hole a tad tight and let tension hold the tweeter housing in. If it comes loose, I can always either epoxy it or use some superglue...
As for the JL door speakers, I'm researching that now. I'm debating on whether I'm going to run them off the Alpine PDX-V9 subwoofer channel and get an Alpine PDX-M12 for the sub in the trunk, or just get a PDX-F4 for the JL doors and use the V9 for the trunk sub. If I know me (and I do), odds are I'll just spend the extra $200 and get the M12.....
Also, I think I'm going to need to research crossovers now. Any suggestions? I've used AudioControl in the past, and someone's recommended Audison Bit 10 or Bit 1. I've never used them before so I need to do some homework.
Don't power the ZR800s with the sub channel - it's mono - you will hear the difference with midbass not being stereo. Power the sub with the sub channel, then get an F4 and bridge it for the ZRs, and keep the gains down.
Also, IIRC, the ZRs like free air better than an enclosure, so you might want to test them in the factory enclosures, but you might need to cut the backs out so it's open....
6/17/13, 09:29 PM
#43
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The passenger side door was simple - the only issue is the tweeters are so large, the locking ring wouldn't fit, so I had to make the hole a tad tight and let tension hold the tweeter housing in. If it comes loose, I can always either epoxy it or use some superglue...
As for the JL door speakers, I'm researching that now. I'm debating on whether I'm going to run them off the Alpine PDX-V9 subwoofer channel and get an Alpine PDX-M12 for the sub in the trunk, or just get a PDX-F4 for the JL doors and use the V9 for the trunk sub. If I know me (and I do), odds are I'll just spend the extra $200 and get the M12.....
Also, I think I'm going to need to research crossovers now. Any suggestions? I've used AudioControl in the past, and someone's recommended Audison Bit 10 or Bit 1. I've never used them before so I need to do some homework.
6/17/13, 09:31 PM
#44
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Don't power the ZR800s with the sub channel - it's mono - you will hear the difference with midbass not being stereo. Power the sub with the sub channel, then get an F4 and bridge it for the ZRs, and keep the gains down.
Also, IIRC, the ZRs like free air better than an enclosure, so you might want to test them in the factory enclosures, but you might need to cut the backs out so it's open....
6/18/13, 10:47 AM
#45
Legacy TMS Member
That's...my...point. He's running them as mid bass. Not as door subs. Around 100hz you will be able to tell where that information *should* be coming from. And I'd run these 8s between 80-300, or 100-300.
6/18/13, 11:04 AM
#46
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Then yup, it would sound like poop. If he's going for a smoother sound with less frequency overlap. Some people like to run subs in front and in the trunk. It creates more impact. I suppose it depends on his goals. I didn't read that he was running them as mid bass drivers. I must have missed that. Good catch.
6/18/13, 11:44 AM
#47
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Yes, I concur. For some reason I had it in my head that the V9 was stereo output on the sub channel. I've gone back to my original idea of just ordering an F4 to run the door mid-bass JL's and running the sub off the V9 sub channel.
Now, let's talk crossovers. What should I be considering instead of either the AudioControl or the Audison?
Now, let's talk crossovers. What should I be considering instead of either the AudioControl or the Audison?
6/18/13, 12:16 PM
#48
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Yes, I concur. For some reason I had it in my head that the V9 was stereo output on the sub channel. I've gone back to my original idea of just ordering an F4 to run the door mid-bass JL's and running the sub off the V9 sub channel.
Now, let's talk crossovers. What should I be considering instead of either the AudioControl or the Audison?
Now, let's talk crossovers. What should I be considering instead of either the AudioControl or the Audison?
6/18/13, 01:22 PM
#49
Legacy TMS Member
Yes, I concur. For some reason I had it in my head that the V9 was stereo output on the sub channel. I've gone back to my original idea of just ordering an F4 to run the door mid-bass JL's and running the sub off the V9 sub channel.
Now, let's talk crossovers. What should I be considering instead of either the AudioControl or the Audison?
Now, let's talk crossovers. What should I be considering instead of either the AudioControl or the Audison?
6/23/13, 09:08 PM
#50
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I like the LCQ-1 in my Kia Forte 
http://www.forteforums.com/forums/fo...tallation.html
The EQX would be excellent for your aftermarket head unit. (My humble opinion).
http://www.forteforums.com/forums/fo...tallation.html
The EQX would be excellent for your aftermarket head unit. (My humble opinion).
6/24/13, 12:45 PM
#51
Bullitt Member
Thread Starter
The Big Brown Truck stopped by today.....
...and brought me something new!
My lead installer is responsible for checking in all incoming inventory. He assured me that even though the box looked a little 'ragged' from its journey, it was OK to accept it.
Underneath the packing foam (which my lead installer was more than happy to 'deal with' while I was checking out the new purchase was my new JL Audio Stealthbox and sub!
My lead installer wanted to get a jump on the directions while I got some pics of the enclosure out of the box:
Thank you, Alberto Cruz, for installing my terminals for me...I guess he's JL Audio's version of "Inspector 12" (OLD reference - let's see who gets it without Googling)...
Anyway just to update everyone on the parts status - I ordered the Alpine PDX-F4 amp, the JL Audio Z800's, and the Stealthbox last week - today I ordered a used Metra dash kit (this way, if I don't like it, I'm not out a ton of money - I can always sell it on eBay), and the iDataLink Maestro RR (plus wiring harness) today. I expect them to arrive by the end of the week. The JL Z800's are scaring me - I have a UPS tracking number (after I called the company I bought them from and complained), but they're still not showing up in UPS's system as having been picked up yet. Everything else is tracking fine.
I took next week off work specifically so I could work on this install. At some point during this week I'll work on cutting the amp mounting board, which I think I am now going to mount in the spare tire well after all. I might even have enough MDF left over to make it work without having to buy a new sheet. I'll post that either tonight or tomorrow once I've done my measuring.
Stay tuned, kiddies, it's about to get busy up in this joint! In the meantime my lead installer was telling me it was time for his afternoon snack break...
My lead installer is responsible for checking in all incoming inventory. He assured me that even though the box looked a little 'ragged' from its journey, it was OK to accept it.
Underneath the packing foam (which my lead installer was more than happy to 'deal with' while I was checking out the new purchase was my new JL Audio Stealthbox and sub!
My lead installer wanted to get a jump on the directions while I got some pics of the enclosure out of the box:
Thank you, Alberto Cruz, for installing my terminals for me...I guess he's JL Audio's version of "Inspector 12" (OLD reference - let's see who gets it without Googling)...
Anyway just to update everyone on the parts status - I ordered the Alpine PDX-F4 amp, the JL Audio Z800's, and the Stealthbox last week - today I ordered a used Metra dash kit (this way, if I don't like it, I'm not out a ton of money - I can always sell it on eBay), and the iDataLink Maestro RR (plus wiring harness) today. I expect them to arrive by the end of the week. The JL Z800's are scaring me - I have a UPS tracking number (after I called the company I bought them from and complained), but they're still not showing up in UPS's system as having been picked up yet. Everything else is tracking fine.
I took next week off work specifically so I could work on this install. At some point during this week I'll work on cutting the amp mounting board, which I think I am now going to mount in the spare tire well after all. I might even have enough MDF left over to make it work without having to buy a new sheet. I'll post that either tonight or tomorrow once I've done my measuring.
Stay tuned, kiddies, it's about to get busy up in this joint! In the meantime my lead installer was telling me it was time for his afternoon snack break...
6/25/13, 09:41 PM
#53
Bullitt Member
Thread Starter
More goodies!!!
This time, the big white truck came by (FedEx) and left me a package. My lead installer, as usual, checked it in:
After a little conversation about my spending habits, he decided to let me open this one and check out the contents:
My Alpine PDX-F4 arrived!
My lead installer is not looking forward to this install project. He decided to rest up for our upcoming project:
After a little conversation about my spending habits, he decided to let me open this one and check out the contents:
My Alpine PDX-F4 arrived!
My lead installer is not looking forward to this install project. He decided to rest up for our upcoming project:
6/25/13, 11:01 PM
#54
Legacy TMS Member
Did we talk about the Big 3 yet? You're definitely going to need to do that with 2 amps. Also, I'd consider a high output alt, but it won't be 100% necessary, depending on what kind of music you listen to and how hard you crank on it...
6/26/13, 07:16 AM
#56
Bullitt Member
Thread Starter
I've thought about the big three, but don't think it's going to be necessary. These amps are both Class D and don't draw that much juice vs. older Class A/B amps, and the car already comes with a 130 amp alternator (cranking out over 16v at idle). I'll install the setup first and see if I get any headlight dimming and go from there. Worst case scenario, I'll do a Big 3 and upgrade the battery. I doubt highly I'll need a 200 amp alternator, but we'll see.
6/26/13, 07:47 AM
#57
Legacy TMS Member
I've thought about the big three, but don't think it's going to be necessary. These amps are both Class D and don't draw that much juice vs. older Class A/B amps, and the car already comes with a 130 amp alternator (cranking out over 16v at idle). I'll install the setup first and see if I get any headlight dimming and go from there. Worst case scenario, I'll do a Big 3 and upgrade the battery. I doubt highly I'll need a 200 amp alternator, but we'll see.
6/26/13, 08:04 AM
#58
Bullitt Member
Thread Starter
I hear ya. I didn't know it had a 130 amp alt already. Honestly, it's usually a good idea to do the Big 3 even if you *aren't* adding more sound, but I haven't looked at a newer S197 up close. I'd at least do another run of 4 gauge on top of the factory wiring. You're right about the efficient Class D's. You won't see headlight dimming on a 2013-14 because they have HIDs standard - the ballasts will still supply a constant current to the bulbs. I just realized you probably won't see any in the interior either, due to the LED lighting - either way, I'd watch the voltage drops on extended/heavy bass notes. But you seem like you know what to watch out for
I'll poke around the engine compartment after everything's all installed and see how much of a pain in the *** a Big 3 upgrade is going to be. I'm not as young as I use to be and I don't contort like I did once upon a time...
6/26/13, 09:32 AM
#59
Bullitt Member
Thread Starter
Another day, another delivery!
This time, the package was small...what could it be? My lead installer was busy inspecting the inside of his eyelids outside, so I had to handle this delivery myself.
Oh boy! More packing peanuts!
Finally - the brains of the organization - the iDataLink Maestro RR and Wiring Harness! I broke down and ordered them on Monday (fast delivery!) so I could have them for next week when I'm on vacation. I also ordered a used dash kit as a temporary fill-in until the iDataLink kit becomes available (which I now understand won't be until "late-July/early-August at the soonest". Boo!
For those of you who don't know, the iDataLink Maestro RR allows you to integrate the new head unit (in my case the Kenwood Excelon DNN990HD) with the factory features and controls (SYNC, steering wheel controls, ODBII, vehicle diagnostics, etc.). It's really a cool system - check it out!
In order to integrate it, you need to connect to the factory wiring, which of course means an adapter:
On top of this, I need to tap the ODB port with two additional wires (I'll reference the specifics later when I do the actual install).
Anyway, we're almost there! I'm still waiting on the mystery-date arrival of my JL ZR800's (which SHOULD be here tomorrow. If not, someone's getting a very angry phone call), and the dash kit (ETA tomorrow). If all goes well, I'll start building the amp mounting board (in the spare tire well) over the weekend. I need to make another Skycraft run for some misc. parts (distribution blocks, more wire, etc.) - I might do that this afternoon.
Stay frosty!
Oh boy! More packing peanuts!
Finally - the brains of the organization - the iDataLink Maestro RR and Wiring Harness! I broke down and ordered them on Monday (fast delivery!) so I could have them for next week when I'm on vacation. I also ordered a used dash kit as a temporary fill-in until the iDataLink kit becomes available (which I now understand won't be until "late-July/early-August at the soonest". Boo!
For those of you who don't know, the iDataLink Maestro RR allows you to integrate the new head unit (in my case the Kenwood Excelon DNN990HD) with the factory features and controls (SYNC, steering wheel controls, ODBII, vehicle diagnostics, etc.). It's really a cool system - check it out!
In order to integrate it, you need to connect to the factory wiring, which of course means an adapter:
On top of this, I need to tap the ODB port with two additional wires (I'll reference the specifics later when I do the actual install).
Anyway, we're almost there! I'm still waiting on the mystery-date arrival of my JL ZR800's (which SHOULD be here tomorrow. If not, someone's getting a very angry phone call), and the dash kit (ETA tomorrow). If all goes well, I'll start building the amp mounting board (in the spare tire well) over the weekend. I need to make another Skycraft run for some misc. parts (distribution blocks, more wire, etc.) - I might do that this afternoon.
Stay frosty!
Last edited by ColSaulTigh; 6/26/13 at 09:38 AM.
