Upcoming Audio Build - Detailed w/Pics and Data
5/25/13, 08:49 AM
#1
Bullitt Member
Thread Starter
Upcoming Audio Build - Detailed w/Pics and Data
So I've decided to do an entire audio build from scratch with my new car. I will update this thread from beginning to completion with details, pics, wiring diagrams, etc. and welcome all input/feedback (please keep it civil). 
So to start - I am in the process of acquiring my parts while I wait for delivery. The car is a 2014 Black Ford Mustang GT Premium with the Shaker 500 system and no navigation. I am a DIY car audio guy (and former professional Audio/Video Home Theater guy) from the 80's. I will be taking my time with this build, so if the thread moves slowly, I apologize in advance.
The goal here is simplicity. I want a nice sound system on a moderate budget. I am shooting for a system that would out-perform the Shaker 1000 w/Navigation system for about the same price (or less) than I would have paid the dealer for it ($2,300.00) With the exception of my sub & box (JL Audio CS110RG-W0v2 which I just got a couple of years ago, and will be replacing eventually), I will be buying everything new. I'm tired of reusing old audio gear. Not that it's bad, but it's seen many miles and time has taken it's toll on appearance, and I'm sure newer technology has improved things since they days of "Walk the Dinosaur".
Parts:
Head Unit - Kenwood eXcelon DNN990HD - Retail: $1,699.99. Est. Purchase Price: $1,300-$1,400 (ebay)
Justification: I want a top-of-the-line head unit with a quality navigation system, OEM integration, Sync control-capable, etc. This unit has everything, including WiFi capabilities - it's the best I could find.
Needed Accessories: I will be interfacing this with the car via OBDII using an iDataLink Maestro RR, to enable all the features. Retail: $169.99 including wiring harness.
More Info: In case anyone is intersted - here's a
of the pair in action. Watch to about 3:35 mark.
Dash Kit - iDataLink Dash Kit (unknown model, due out July 2013-ish) - Price: TBD, but expected to be around $125-ish
Justification: I already have a thread started about this dash kit here. I like the fact that it will place the unit higher up (albeit not at the top of the stack). I understand there are logistics about why this can't be done (not enough depth, etc.), but the higher up the stack, the better, IMO. Plus, I like the fact that there's a pocket underneath for storing stuff, and there's less "blank space" than with either the Metra or Scosche kits. If anyone has more info, please feel free to chime in.
Front Speakers - Alpine SPX-17PRO - Retail: $1,050.00, Purchase Price: $347 all-in from .
Justification: This was a hard one. Like I said earlier, I use to be a pro home theater installer (actually, I owned the company with a partner and did all of the installing, too - long story...) and while I had the company, my partner bought a set of Polk Audio SR6500's. These were UNBELIEVABLY incredibly sounding speakers! Polk, however, stopped selling them years ago, and the only set I found on eBay was used and going for $600. I didn't want to risk it on used speakers. So doing some research, I found out that the Alpines use the same tweeter technology (ring radiator) as the Polks. Reviews say these are decent speakers (you know how reviews go...it's a grab bag), and aren't as harsh as the JL Audio ZR-650CSi's I was looking at. Plus, when I found them on Amazon for $346 shipped, I said what the heck. If I hate them, I'll rip 'em out and sell 'em on eBay and buy something else. I have a wide variety of musical tastes (Classical, Rock, Pop, Country...), so I need a versatile speaker - not something purpose-driven. These seem to fit the bill. I'll make up for the lacking low end (if there really is one) by doing something with the 8"'s in the door if necessary.
Installation: The 6.5" drivers will go in place of the factory 6x8's (the Alpines come with their own adapter plates - Yay! no having to fab something). I really need to have the car in front of me to figure out the tweeter placement. I'm hoping I can get them in the A-pillars, but I'm thinking it's going to have to be the door panel. I may relocate the power mirror switch and put the tweeters in the triangle. I'll keep you posted. If anyone has any suggestions, please feel free.
Amplifier - Alpine PDX-V9 - Retail: $750.00, PURCHASED: $419 all-in from eBay.
Justification: Well, I started out looking at a JL Audio HD900/5. $1,000 retail. I found a used one on eBay that I could have picked up for around $460 + $15 shipping, and almost bought it, but something kept nagging at me in the back of my head. I've had Alpine amps in the way-past (90's), and they were just fine. I decided to do some research and found the PDX-V9 matched the JL HD900/5 spec-for-spec. It's actually physically a tad smaller (planning on installing under the passenger seat), looks nicer (IMO), and is less expensive. Again, reviews are good for this amp, and many consider it a sleeper. Worst case scenario, it gets yanked out and sold.
Subwoofer - JL Audio CS110RG-W0v2 - Retail: $219.99, GIFTED to me, no cost!
Justification: As mentioned above, a buddy gave this to me as a birthday gift just a few years ago, so it's still in very nice condition. I know it's not going to beat the doors out, but I'm not a bass-pounding teenager anymore, either. I will eventually upgrade it to something nice and powerful, but for now, this is fine. This will live in the trunk.
UNDECIDED - Rear Speakers
I haven't made up my mind if I want something for fill in the back or not. I'll see how this sounds first before I make that decision. If I do decide, I'll do some research and see what my best bet's going to be. For the price, I may pick up another pair of the Alpine SPX-17PRO's.
Additional Details:
Sound Deadening: I've been researching that lately. I'm not concerned about the weight gain, so I may just deaden the whole cabin and trunk. Having said that - I'm trying to figure out if "Peel & Seal" route is really as good as everyone says vs. the Dynamat option. Technically, they're the same thing (albeit constructed differently). The jury's still out - feedback welcome.
Power Cable: I found a thread on another forum that detailed running the power cable from the battery into the cabin. I will be duplicating his efforts and documenting it here.
Speaker Wiring: More than likely, I will run all new wiring to the speakers and sub. I want to leave the factory wiring as in-tact as possible in case I decide to sell the car and want to rip my stuff out. It's easier to unplug the head unit harness than to have to cut/splice a bunch of wires back together...
Next Steps:
So what's next? Well, obviously I need to acquire the car (due at the dealership sometime around 6/1/13-ish). Parts will be coming in over the next month or so. I'll post something as each one arrives. Once everything is here, I'll start the build. I will post pics and details on EVERYTHING. If anyone has any requests, please let me know.
What am I forgetting? It's been a LOOOONNNNGGGGGG time since I've done any of this (almost 20 years now...take that, kiddies!), so I'm scratching the back of my brain trying to plan this. I'm also working on 20-30-year-old information. If anyone has any tidbits or nuggets of wisdom they'd like to contribute, please feel free. Remember, let's keep it fun and positive - I'm not interested in flame wars. Constructive feedback is welcome. Hostile ranting is not - 4chan is that way --->
Anyway, that's enough for today - I'll keep you posted (haha!) as things progress! Thanks for your attention and interest!
So to start - I am in the process of acquiring my parts while I wait for delivery. The car is a 2014 Black Ford Mustang GT Premium with the Shaker 500 system and no navigation. I am a DIY car audio guy (and former professional Audio/Video Home Theater guy) from the 80's. I will be taking my time with this build, so if the thread moves slowly, I apologize in advance.
The goal here is simplicity. I want a nice sound system on a moderate budget. I am shooting for a system that would out-perform the Shaker 1000 w/Navigation system for about the same price (or less) than I would have paid the dealer for it ($2,300.00) With the exception of my sub & box (JL Audio CS110RG-W0v2 which I just got a couple of years ago, and will be replacing eventually), I will be buying everything new. I'm tired of reusing old audio gear. Not that it's bad, but it's seen many miles and time has taken it's toll on appearance, and I'm sure newer technology has improved things since they days of "Walk the Dinosaur".
Parts:
Head Unit - Kenwood eXcelon DNN990HD - Retail: $1,699.99. Est. Purchase Price: $1,300-$1,400 (ebay)
Justification: I want a top-of-the-line head unit with a quality navigation system, OEM integration, Sync control-capable, etc. This unit has everything, including WiFi capabilities - it's the best I could find.
Needed Accessories: I will be interfacing this with the car via OBDII using an iDataLink Maestro RR, to enable all the features. Retail: $169.99 including wiring harness.
More Info: In case anyone is intersted - here's a
Dash Kit - iDataLink Dash Kit (unknown model, due out July 2013-ish) - Price: TBD, but expected to be around $125-ish
Justification: I already have a thread started about this dash kit here. I like the fact that it will place the unit higher up (albeit not at the top of the stack). I understand there are logistics about why this can't be done (not enough depth, etc.), but the higher up the stack, the better, IMO. Plus, I like the fact that there's a pocket underneath for storing stuff, and there's less "blank space" than with either the Metra or Scosche kits. If anyone has more info, please feel free to chime in.
Front Speakers - Alpine SPX-17PRO - Retail: $1,050.00, Purchase Price: $347 all-in from .
Justification: This was a hard one. Like I said earlier, I use to be a pro home theater installer (actually, I owned the company with a partner and did all of the installing, too - long story...) and while I had the company, my partner bought a set of Polk Audio SR6500's. These were UNBELIEVABLY incredibly sounding speakers! Polk, however, stopped selling them years ago, and the only set I found on eBay was used and going for $600. I didn't want to risk it on used speakers. So doing some research, I found out that the Alpines use the same tweeter technology (ring radiator) as the Polks. Reviews say these are decent speakers (you know how reviews go...it's a grab bag), and aren't as harsh as the JL Audio ZR-650CSi's I was looking at. Plus, when I found them on Amazon for $346 shipped, I said what the heck. If I hate them, I'll rip 'em out and sell 'em on eBay and buy something else. I have a wide variety of musical tastes (Classical, Rock, Pop, Country...), so I need a versatile speaker - not something purpose-driven. These seem to fit the bill. I'll make up for the lacking low end (if there really is one) by doing something with the 8"'s in the door if necessary.
Installation: The 6.5" drivers will go in place of the factory 6x8's (the Alpines come with their own adapter plates - Yay! no having to fab something). I really need to have the car in front of me to figure out the tweeter placement. I'm hoping I can get them in the A-pillars, but I'm thinking it's going to have to be the door panel. I may relocate the power mirror switch and put the tweeters in the triangle. I'll keep you posted. If anyone has any suggestions, please feel free.
Amplifier - Alpine PDX-V9 - Retail: $750.00, PURCHASED: $419 all-in from eBay.
Justification: Well, I started out looking at a JL Audio HD900/5. $1,000 retail. I found a used one on eBay that I could have picked up for around $460 + $15 shipping, and almost bought it, but something kept nagging at me in the back of my head. I've had Alpine amps in the way-past (90's), and they were just fine. I decided to do some research and found the PDX-V9 matched the JL HD900/5 spec-for-spec. It's actually physically a tad smaller (planning on installing under the passenger seat), looks nicer (IMO), and is less expensive. Again, reviews are good for this amp, and many consider it a sleeper. Worst case scenario, it gets yanked out and sold.
Subwoofer - JL Audio CS110RG-W0v2 - Retail: $219.99, GIFTED to me, no cost!
Justification: As mentioned above, a buddy gave this to me as a birthday gift just a few years ago, so it's still in very nice condition. I know it's not going to beat the doors out, but I'm not a bass-pounding teenager anymore, either. I will eventually upgrade it to something nice and powerful, but for now, this is fine. This will live in the trunk.
UNDECIDED - Rear Speakers
I haven't made up my mind if I want something for fill in the back or not. I'll see how this sounds first before I make that decision. If I do decide, I'll do some research and see what my best bet's going to be. For the price, I may pick up another pair of the Alpine SPX-17PRO's.
Additional Details:
Sound Deadening: I've been researching that lately. I'm not concerned about the weight gain, so I may just deaden the whole cabin and trunk. Having said that - I'm trying to figure out if "Peel & Seal" route is really as good as everyone says vs. the Dynamat option. Technically, they're the same thing (albeit constructed differently). The jury's still out - feedback welcome.
Power Cable: I found a thread on another forum that detailed running the power cable from the battery into the cabin. I will be duplicating his efforts and documenting it here.
Speaker Wiring: More than likely, I will run all new wiring to the speakers and sub. I want to leave the factory wiring as in-tact as possible in case I decide to sell the car and want to rip my stuff out. It's easier to unplug the head unit harness than to have to cut/splice a bunch of wires back together...
Next Steps:
So what's next? Well, obviously I need to acquire the car (due at the dealership sometime around 6/1/13-ish). Parts will be coming in over the next month or so. I'll post something as each one arrives. Once everything is here, I'll start the build. I will post pics and details on EVERYTHING. If anyone has any requests, please let me know.
What am I forgetting? It's been a LOOOONNNNGGGGGG time since I've done any of this (almost 20 years now...take that, kiddies!), so I'm scratching the back of my brain trying to plan this. I'm also working on 20-30-year-old information. If anyone has any tidbits or nuggets of wisdom they'd like to contribute, please feel free. Remember, let's keep it fun and positive - I'm not interested in flame wars. Constructive feedback is welcome. Hostile ranting is not - 4chan is that way --->
Anyway, that's enough for today - I'll keep you posted (haha!) as things progress! Thanks for your attention and interest!
Last edited by ColSaulTigh; 5/25/13 at 04:28 PM.
5/25/13, 10:30 AM
#2
Cobra R Member
Join Date: September 22, 2012
Location: Ontario, California
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So I've decided to do an entire audio build from scratch with my new car. I will update this thread from beginning to completion with details, pics, wiring diagrams, etc. and welcome all input/feedback (please keep it civil).
So to start - I am in the process of acquiring my parts while I wait for delivery. The car is a 2014 Black Ford Mustang GT Premium with the Shaker 500 system and no navigation. I am a DIY car audio guy (and former professional Audio/Video Home Theater guy) from the 80's. I will be taking my time with this build, so if the thread moves slowly, I apologize in advance.
The goal here is simplicity. I want a nice sound system on a moderate budget. I am shooting for a system that would out-perform the Shaker 1000 w/Navigation system for about the same price (or less) than I would have paid the dealer for it ($2,300.00) With the exception of my sub & box (JL Audio CS110RG-W0v2 which I just got a couple of years ago, and will be replacing eventually), I will be buying everything new. I'm tired of reusing old audio gear. Not that it's bad, but it's seen many miles and time has taken it's toll on appearance, and I'm sure newer technology has improved things since they days of "Walk the Dinosaur".
Parts:
Head Unit - Kenwood eXelon DNN990HD - Retail: $1,699.99. Est. Purchase Price: $1,300-$1,400 (ebay)
Justification: I want a top-of-the-line head unit with a quality navigation system, OEM integration, Sync control-capable, etc. This unit has everything, including WiFi capabilities - it's the best I could find.
Needed Accessories: I will be interfacing this with the car via OBDII using an iDataLink Maestro RR, to enable all the features. Retail: $169.99 including wiring harness.
More Info: In case anyone is intersted - here's a Video Link: http://youtu.be/Gz5YiFMUJXQ of the pair in action. Watch to about 3:35 mark.
Dash Kit - iDataLink Dash Kit (unknown model, due out July 2013-ish) - Price: TBD, but expected to be around $125-ish
Justification: I already have a thread started about this dash kit here. I like the fact that it will place the unit higher up (albeit not at the top of the stack). I understand there are logistics about why this can't be done (not enough depth, etc.), but the higher up the stack, the better, IMO. Plus, I like the fact that there's a pocket underneath for storing stuff, and there's less "blank space" than with either the Metra or Scosche kits. If anyone has more info, please feel free to chime in.
Front Speakers - Alpine SPX-17PRO - Retail: $1,050.00, Purchase Price: $347 all-in from Video Link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013UVKXC/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.
Justification: This was a hard one. Like I said earlier, I use to be a pro home theater installer (actually, I owned the company with a partner and did all of the installing, too - long story...) and while I had the company, my partner bought a set of Polk Audio SR6500's. These were UNBELIEVABLY incredibly sounding speakers! Polk, however, stopped selling them years ago, and the only set I found on eBay was used and going for $600. I didn't want to risk it on used speakers. So doing some research, I found out that the Alpines use the same tweeter technology (ring radiator) as the Polks. Reviews say these are decent speakers (you know how reviews go...it's a grab bag), and aren't as harsh as the JL Audio ZR-650CSi's I was looking at. Plus, when I found them on Amazon for $346 shipped, I said what the heck. If I hate them, I'll rip 'em out and sell 'em on eBay and buy something else. I have a wide variety of musical tastes (Classical, Rock, Pop, Country...), so I need a versatile speaker - not something purpose-driven. These seem to fit the bill. I'll make up for the lacking low end (if there really is one) by doing something with the 8"'s in the door if necessary.
Installation: The 6.5" drivers will go in place of the factory 6x8's (the Alpines come with their own adapter plates - Yay! no having to fab something). I really need to have the car in front of me to figure out the tweeter placement. I'm hoping I can get them in the A-pillars, but I'm thinking it's going to have to be the door panel. I may relocate the power mirror switch and put the tweeters in the triangle. I'll keep you posted. If anyone has any suggestions, please feel free.
Amplifier - Alpine PDX-V9 - Retail: $750.00, PURCHASED: $419 all-in from eBay.
Justification: Well, I started out looking at a JL Audio HD900/5. $1,000 retail. I found a used one on eBay that I could have picked up for around $460 + $15 shipping, and almost bought it, but something kept nagging at me in the back of my head. I've had Alpine amps in the way-past (90's), and they were just fine. I decided to do some research and found the PDX-V9 matched the JL HD900/5 spec-for-spec. It's actually physically a tad smaller (planning on installing under the passenger seat), looks nicer (IMO), and is less expensive. Again, reviews are good for this amp, and many consider it a sleeper. Worst case scenario, it gets yanked out and sold.
Subwoofer - JL Audio CS110RG-W0v2 - Retail: $219.99, GIFTED to me, no cost!
Justification: As mentioned above, a buddy gave this to me as a birthday gift just a few years ago, so it's still in very nice condition. I know it's not going to beat the doors out, but I'm not a bass-pounding teenager anymore, either. I will eventually upgrade it to something nice and powerful, but for now, this is fine. This will live in the trunk.
UNDECIDED - Rear Speakers
I haven't made up my mind if I want something for fill in the back or not. I'll see how this sounds first before I make that decision. If I do decide, I'll do some research and see what my best bet's going to be. For the price, I may pick up another pair of the Alpine SPX-17PRO's.
Additional Details:
Sound Deadening: I've been researching that lately. I'm not concerned about the weight gain, so I may just deaden the whole cabin and trunk. Having said that - I'm trying to figure out if "Peel & Seal" route is really as good as everyone says vs. the Dynamat option. Technically, they're the same thing (albeit constructed differently). The jury's still out - feedback welcome.
Power Cable: I found a thread on another forum that detailed running the power cable from the battery into the cabin. I will be duplicating his efforts and documenting it here.
Speaker Wiring: More than likely, I will run all new wiring to the speakers and sub. I want to leave the factory wiring as in-tact as possible in case I decide to sell the car and want to rip my stuff out. It's easier to unplug the head unit harness than to have to cut/splice a bunch of wires back together...
Next Steps:
So what's next? Well, obviously I need to acquire the car (due at the dealership sometime around 6/1/13-ish). Parts will be coming in over the next month or so. I'll post something as each one arrives. Once everything is here, I'll start the build. I will post pics and details on EVERYTHING. If anyone has any requests, please let me know.
What am I forgetting? It's been a LOOOONNNNGGGGGG time since I've done any of this (almost 20 years now...take that, kiddies!), so I'm scratching the back of my brain trying to plan this. I'm also working on 20-30-year-old information. If anyone has any tidbits or nuggets of wisdom they'd like to contribute, please feel free. Remember, let's keep it fun and positive - I'm not interested in flame wars. Constructive feedback is welcome. Hostile ranting is not - 4chan is that way --->
Anyway, that's enough for today - I'll keep you posted (haha!) as things progress! Thanks for your attention and interest!
So to start - I am in the process of acquiring my parts while I wait for delivery. The car is a 2014 Black Ford Mustang GT Premium with the Shaker 500 system and no navigation. I am a DIY car audio guy (and former professional Audio/Video Home Theater guy) from the 80's. I will be taking my time with this build, so if the thread moves slowly, I apologize in advance.
The goal here is simplicity. I want a nice sound system on a moderate budget. I am shooting for a system that would out-perform the Shaker 1000 w/Navigation system for about the same price (or less) than I would have paid the dealer for it ($2,300.00) With the exception of my sub & box (JL Audio CS110RG-W0v2 which I just got a couple of years ago, and will be replacing eventually), I will be buying everything new. I'm tired of reusing old audio gear. Not that it's bad, but it's seen many miles and time has taken it's toll on appearance, and I'm sure newer technology has improved things since they days of "Walk the Dinosaur".
Parts:
Head Unit - Kenwood eXelon DNN990HD - Retail: $1,699.99. Est. Purchase Price: $1,300-$1,400 (ebay)
Justification: I want a top-of-the-line head unit with a quality navigation system, OEM integration, Sync control-capable, etc. This unit has everything, including WiFi capabilities - it's the best I could find.
Needed Accessories: I will be interfacing this with the car via OBDII using an iDataLink Maestro RR, to enable all the features. Retail: $169.99 including wiring harness.
More Info: In case anyone is intersted - here's a Video Link: http://youtu.be/Gz5YiFMUJXQ of the pair in action. Watch to about 3:35 mark.
Dash Kit - iDataLink Dash Kit (unknown model, due out July 2013-ish) - Price: TBD, but expected to be around $125-ish
Justification: I already have a thread started about this dash kit here. I like the fact that it will place the unit higher up (albeit not at the top of the stack). I understand there are logistics about why this can't be done (not enough depth, etc.), but the higher up the stack, the better, IMO. Plus, I like the fact that there's a pocket underneath for storing stuff, and there's less "blank space" than with either the Metra or Scosche kits. If anyone has more info, please feel free to chime in.
Front Speakers - Alpine SPX-17PRO - Retail: $1,050.00, Purchase Price: $347 all-in from Video Link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013UVKXC/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.
Justification: This was a hard one. Like I said earlier, I use to be a pro home theater installer (actually, I owned the company with a partner and did all of the installing, too - long story...) and while I had the company, my partner bought a set of Polk Audio SR6500's. These were UNBELIEVABLY incredibly sounding speakers! Polk, however, stopped selling them years ago, and the only set I found on eBay was used and going for $600. I didn't want to risk it on used speakers. So doing some research, I found out that the Alpines use the same tweeter technology (ring radiator) as the Polks. Reviews say these are decent speakers (you know how reviews go...it's a grab bag), and aren't as harsh as the JL Audio ZR-650CSi's I was looking at. Plus, when I found them on Amazon for $346 shipped, I said what the heck. If I hate them, I'll rip 'em out and sell 'em on eBay and buy something else. I have a wide variety of musical tastes (Classical, Rock, Pop, Country...), so I need a versatile speaker - not something purpose-driven. These seem to fit the bill. I'll make up for the lacking low end (if there really is one) by doing something with the 8"'s in the door if necessary.
Installation: The 6.5" drivers will go in place of the factory 6x8's (the Alpines come with their own adapter plates - Yay! no having to fab something). I really need to have the car in front of me to figure out the tweeter placement. I'm hoping I can get them in the A-pillars, but I'm thinking it's going to have to be the door panel. I may relocate the power mirror switch and put the tweeters in the triangle. I'll keep you posted. If anyone has any suggestions, please feel free.
Amplifier - Alpine PDX-V9 - Retail: $750.00, PURCHASED: $419 all-in from eBay.
Justification: Well, I started out looking at a JL Audio HD900/5. $1,000 retail. I found a used one on eBay that I could have picked up for around $460 + $15 shipping, and almost bought it, but something kept nagging at me in the back of my head. I've had Alpine amps in the way-past (90's), and they were just fine. I decided to do some research and found the PDX-V9 matched the JL HD900/5 spec-for-spec. It's actually physically a tad smaller (planning on installing under the passenger seat), looks nicer (IMO), and is less expensive. Again, reviews are good for this amp, and many consider it a sleeper. Worst case scenario, it gets yanked out and sold.
Subwoofer - JL Audio CS110RG-W0v2 - Retail: $219.99, GIFTED to me, no cost!
Justification: As mentioned above, a buddy gave this to me as a birthday gift just a few years ago, so it's still in very nice condition. I know it's not going to beat the doors out, but I'm not a bass-pounding teenager anymore, either. I will eventually upgrade it to something nice and powerful, but for now, this is fine. This will live in the trunk.
UNDECIDED - Rear Speakers
I haven't made up my mind if I want something for fill in the back or not. I'll see how this sounds first before I make that decision. If I do decide, I'll do some research and see what my best bet's going to be. For the price, I may pick up another pair of the Alpine SPX-17PRO's.
Additional Details:
Sound Deadening: I've been researching that lately. I'm not concerned about the weight gain, so I may just deaden the whole cabin and trunk. Having said that - I'm trying to figure out if "Peel & Seal" route is really as good as everyone says vs. the Dynamat option. Technically, they're the same thing (albeit constructed differently). The jury's still out - feedback welcome.
Power Cable: I found a thread on another forum that detailed running the power cable from the battery into the cabin. I will be duplicating his efforts and documenting it here.
Speaker Wiring: More than likely, I will run all new wiring to the speakers and sub. I want to leave the factory wiring as in-tact as possible in case I decide to sell the car and want to rip my stuff out. It's easier to unplug the head unit harness than to have to cut/splice a bunch of wires back together...
Next Steps:
So what's next? Well, obviously I need to acquire the car (due at the dealership sometime around 6/1/13-ish). Parts will be coming in over the next month or so. I'll post something as each one arrives. Once everything is here, I'll start the build. I will post pics and details on EVERYTHING. If anyone has any requests, please let me know.
What am I forgetting? It's been a LOOOONNNNGGGGGG time since I've done any of this (almost 20 years now...take that, kiddies!), so I'm scratching the back of my brain trying to plan this. I'm also working on 20-30-year-old information. If anyone has any tidbits or nuggets of wisdom they'd like to contribute, please feel free. Remember, let's keep it fun and positive - I'm not interested in flame wars. Constructive feedback is welcome. Hostile ranting is not - 4chan is that way --->
Anyway, that's enough for today - I'll keep you posted (haha!) as things progress! Thanks for your attention and interest!
Your list looks really good. The only piece I would have gone in a different direction on is speakers. Everyone likes different speakers so that doesn't really matter.
The only thing missing for sure is what kind of RCA/ signal cable are you running?
I personally like dynomat. Their top shelf stuff is very good. Like you said, it all works about the same. It comes down to personal preference.
Good luck! Post plenty of pics when the battle begins.
5/25/13, 02:59 PM
#3
Bullitt Member
Thread Starter
Looks fun! I kicked around the idea for a bit myself. I was a home audio installer and car audio installer 18 years ago. Sometimes the big tries to bite me and I have to run.
Your list looks really good. The only piece I would have gone in a different direction on is speakers. Everyone likes different speakers so that doesn't really matter.
The only thing missing for sure is what kind of RCA/ signal cable are you running?
I personally like dynomat. Their top shelf stuff is very good. Like you said, it all works about the same. It comes down to personal preference.
Good luck! Post plenty of pics when the battle begins.
Your list looks really good. The only piece I would have gone in a different direction on is speakers. Everyone likes different speakers so that doesn't really matter.
The only thing missing for sure is what kind of RCA/ signal cable are you running?
I personally like dynomat. Their top shelf stuff is very good. Like you said, it all works about the same. It comes down to personal preference.
Good luck! Post plenty of pics when the battle begins.
5/25/13, 06:38 PM
#4
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Make sure if your buying the Kenwood, to use the I-Data link Maestro RR. It will retain everything the Sync system can do, and also retain the inputs. Steering, voice, everything will work, including Sat. It has a input for our factory Sat to hook up.
Also that Radio will bring havoc controls, as well as the gauges system with new decks. I am also waiting to see what I-Data link face plates look like, and I may go this same route.
Also that Radio will bring havoc controls, as well as the gauges system with new decks. I am also waiting to see what I-Data link face plates look like, and I may go this same route.
Last edited by Ninjak; 5/25/13 at 07:54 PM.
5/25/13, 06:52 PM
#5
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I haven't given it much thought - I'm sure I'll order something decent. But you know the deal - two-thirds of the cable hype is marketing BS. Buy decent copper with good connectors and proper shielding, and you'll never tell the difference between 90% of the cables on the market (remember Monster Cable vs. Coat Hangers?). I may even wind up making my own - buying the raw materials and soldering the connectors myself. We'll see how lazy I am by that point
5/27/13, 06:53 PM
#7
Bullitt Member
Thread Starter
Update: I found the Kenwood eXcelon on Amazon for $1259 w/free shipping, so I went ahead and ordered it. I had two auctions I was bidding on today, and I got outbid on both 
Anyway, it should be here by the end of the week or so, so I'll post some pics then. All I need parts wise is the Maestro - I'll probably order that tomorrow 
Anyway, it should be here by the end of the week or so, so I'll post some pics then. All I need parts wise is the Maestro - I'll probably order that tomorrow
5/28/13, 08:09 AM
#8
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Update: I found the Kenwood eXcelon on Amazon for $1259 w/free shipping, so I went ahead and ordered it. I had two auctions I was bidding on today, and I got outbid on both Anyway, it should be here by the end of the week or so, so I'll post some pics then. All I need parts wise is the Maestro - I'll probably order that tomorrow
Anyway, it should be here by the end of the week or so, so I'll post some pics then. All I need parts wise is the Maestro - I'll probably order that tomorrow
5/28/13, 08:25 AM
#9
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Thread Starter
5/30/13, 09:36 PM
#10
Bullitt Member
Thread Starter
Time for an update and some pics!
Today the delivery fairies dropped off a couple of boxes:
Let's have a look inside, shall we?
The first to arrive was the Alpine PDX-V9 Amplifier. Date ordered: 5/25/13. Date delivered: 5/30/13. 5 Days.
The amp is brand-new, factory sealed, and comes with a 1-year warranty from the selling company (I assume they're not an Alpine authorized dealer).
Inside the package is a "Birth Certificate" for the amp which shows its factory-tested specs. Mine are:
This should be more than adequate for my purposes.
Next up was the Alpine SPX-17PRO Speakers. Date ordered: 5/23/13. Date received: 5/30/13. 7 days. I had my lead installer inspect the packaging:
He reported that the speakers were factory-sealed, brand new speakers. The first thing I noticed was that the crossovers for this set are GIGANTIC!
This speaker set also includes mounting AND adapter brackets, so you can mount in either 6 1/2" holes, or 6x8" holes. Quite useful, and it will save me quite a bit of fabrication work. Alpine must own stock in a Styrofoam factory, as there appears to be plenty of wasted space in this package. Mind you, I appreciate the extra padding, but there are THREE layers of packing PLUS the top and bottom covers! That's a lot of foam...
Due in next is the Kenwood head unit, which (according to UPS) is scheduled to arrive on Monday. At the rate I'm going, I'll have all the parts before I have the car!
I'm waiting to order the iDataLink interface because I won a $25 gift card for Amazon.com from a work contest, and I hope it arrives soon so I can save some $$$ on this project (not that $25 is gonna break the bank, but every little bit helps).
Anyway, I'll post more updates as more stuff arrives. Until then, thanks for reading. My lead installer needed a nap after all of today's excitement:
Let's have a look inside, shall we?
The first to arrive was the Alpine PDX-V9 Amplifier. Date ordered: 5/25/13. Date delivered: 5/30/13. 5 Days.
The amp is brand-new, factory sealed, and comes with a 1-year warranty from the selling company (I assume they're not an Alpine authorized dealer).
Inside the package is a "Birth Certificate" for the amp which shows its factory-tested specs. Mine are:
This should be more than adequate for my purposes.
Next up was the Alpine SPX-17PRO Speakers. Date ordered: 5/23/13. Date received: 5/30/13. 7 days. I had my lead installer inspect the packaging:
He reported that the speakers were factory-sealed, brand new speakers. The first thing I noticed was that the crossovers for this set are GIGANTIC!
This speaker set also includes mounting AND adapter brackets, so you can mount in either 6 1/2" holes, or 6x8" holes. Quite useful, and it will save me quite a bit of fabrication work. Alpine must own stock in a Styrofoam factory, as there appears to be plenty of wasted space in this package. Mind you, I appreciate the extra padding, but there are THREE layers of packing PLUS the top and bottom covers! That's a lot of foam...
Due in next is the Kenwood head unit, which (according to UPS) is scheduled to arrive on Monday. At the rate I'm going, I'll have all the parts before I have the car!
I'm waiting to order the iDataLink interface because I won a $25 gift card for Amazon.com from a work contest, and I hope it arrives soon so I can save some $$$ on this project (not that $25 is gonna break the bank, but every little bit helps).
Anyway, I'll post more updates as more stuff arrives. Until then, thanks for reading. My lead installer needed a nap after all of today's excitement:
Last edited by ColSaulTigh; 5/30/13 at 09:37 PM.
6/1/13, 12:22 PM
#11
Legacy TMS Member
Awesome. Finally someone doing it right.
I'll make some recommendations:
1. I would highly suggest running an external processor for EQ, T/A and crossover points. Something like an Audison bit ten or bit one. It will give you so much more flexibility and make it easier to expand the system...
2. ...speaking of expansions, when you're ready, I'd recommend the JL ZR800 mids to replace the 8" door subs. They're some of the best speakers JL has ever made, and I hate JL tweeters. You'll be happy with the Alpine Type-X's and I'm thinking about running those in my SN95 now.
3. Skip the rear fill. It won't be necessary when you hook up those Pros to the V9.
4. Check out sounddeadenershowdown.com for more information on sound deadening. I may have messed that address up, so if it's wrong just google sound deadener showdown and you'll find it.
5. I'd go against installing the amp under the seat - I've done it before and it makes adjustments impossible. Mount it upside down under the rear deck lid, or even in the spare tire well if you have a Brembo package car without a spare tire.
6. Your sub will be decent to start, but you'll want more/better soon. I'd just go with the JL Stealthbox and call it a day. It's a 12 or 13w3, so it'll get the job done. The 05-09 Stealthbox had a 10w6, which I would rather have, but you can always change out the sub later - for me, the ease of putting in the custom fit fiberglass enclosure makes it worth the cost because it saves me the time and itchiness of building the box myself haha!
I hadn't heard of that dash kit yet. It looks very intriguing and well made...a lot more OEM looking than the Scosche or Metra kits. I can't wait to see where you go with this!
I'll make some recommendations:
1. I would highly suggest running an external processor for EQ, T/A and crossover points. Something like an Audison bit ten or bit one. It will give you so much more flexibility and make it easier to expand the system...
2. ...speaking of expansions, when you're ready, I'd recommend the JL ZR800 mids to replace the 8" door subs. They're some of the best speakers JL has ever made, and I hate JL tweeters. You'll be happy with the Alpine Type-X's and I'm thinking about running those in my SN95 now.
3. Skip the rear fill. It won't be necessary when you hook up those Pros to the V9.
4. Check out sounddeadenershowdown.com for more information on sound deadening. I may have messed that address up, so if it's wrong just google sound deadener showdown and you'll find it.
5. I'd go against installing the amp under the seat - I've done it before and it makes adjustments impossible. Mount it upside down under the rear deck lid, or even in the spare tire well if you have a Brembo package car without a spare tire.
6. Your sub will be decent to start, but you'll want more/better soon. I'd just go with the JL Stealthbox and call it a day. It's a 12 or 13w3, so it'll get the job done. The 05-09 Stealthbox had a 10w6, which I would rather have, but you can always change out the sub later - for me, the ease of putting in the custom fit fiberglass enclosure makes it worth the cost because it saves me the time and itchiness of building the box myself haha!
I hadn't heard of that dash kit yet. It looks very intriguing and well made...a lot more OEM looking than the Scosche or Metra kits. I can't wait to see where you go with this!
6/1/13, 03:34 PM
#12
Bullitt Member
Thread Starter
Awesome. Finally someone doing it right.
I'll make some recommendations:
1. I would highly suggest running an external processor for EQ, T/A and crossover points. Something like an Audison bit ten or bit one. It will give you so much more flexibility and make it easier to expand the system...
I'll make some recommendations:
1. I would highly suggest running an external processor for EQ, T/A and crossover points. Something like an Audison bit ten or bit one. It will give you so much more flexibility and make it easier to expand the system...
2. ...speaking of expansions, when you're ready, I'd recommend the JL ZR800 mids to replace the 8" door subs. They're some of the best speakers JL has ever made, and I hate JL tweeters. You'll be happy with the Alpine Type-X's and I'm thinking about running those in my SN95 now.
I agree about the JL tweets - the ZR series are way too harsh. I don't need them quite that bright anymore. I'm glad to hear you like the Alpines - I've had some concerns, but most of the negative reviews I've read seem to come from folks who are either anti-Alpine, or don't know how to install/configure them properly.
6. Your sub will be decent to start, but you'll want more/better soon. I'd just go with the JL Stealthbox and call it a day. It's a 12 or 13w3, so it'll get the job done. The 05-09 Stealthbox had a 10w6, which I would rather have, but you can always change out the sub later - for me, the ease of putting in the custom fit fiberglass enclosure makes it worth the cost because it saves me the time and itchiness of building the box myself haha!
Thanks for the feedback and advice! I really appreciate the Audison tip. It's been YEARS since I did any real research in the subject, so it's good to talk with someone who's got some good insight.
I'll be sure to keep everyone posted. The Kenwood head unit is due into UPS Monday - CAN'T.F'ING.WAIT!!!
6/3/13, 04:41 PM
#13
Bullitt Member
Thread Starter
More Incoming!!!
The Delivery Fairy made another stop today....look at what she brought me:
Exactly as advertised - brand-new, unopened, and in perfect condition...
Mmmmmm........head unit guts!!!
Oh, and I also got this yesterday:
If anyone wants to read the interesting story about my purchase experience, feel free to check it out HERE.
Exactly as advertised - brand-new, unopened, and in perfect condition...
Mmmmmm........head unit guts!!!
Oh, and I also got this yesterday:
If anyone wants to read the interesting story about my purchase experience, feel free to check it out HERE.
6/13/13, 07:00 AM
#16
Bullitt Member
Thread Starter
Stay tuned....this weekend I'm putting the Alpine component speakers in the door and I'll be taking measurements for the mid-bass driver to replace the factory "subs"...
6/13/13, 08:25 AM
#17
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Awesome amp!
Let me know how you like the alpine 17s
Here in a couple of weeks I'm getting ready to do my front and back speakers with Alpine SPR60c speakers and a alpine pdx f4 amp.
Gonna need some sound proofing.
Let me know how you like the alpine 17s
Here in a couple of weeks I'm getting ready to do my front and back speakers with Alpine SPR60c speakers and a alpine pdx f4 amp.
Gonna need some sound proofing.
6/13/13, 11:07 AM
#18
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Thread Starter
Yeah, I've already found some rattle points. When I tear the doors apart this weekend I'll see what I'm dealing with and let y'all know what I find. I don't think the entire door needs to be done, just identify the locations and put some Dynamat patches in place.
6/13/13, 05:06 PM
#20
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I plan to sound proof the doors, trunk and some of the roof. Would like to do the entire bottom floor but not sure how difficult it would be to take apart and re assemble the seats to get to it.
I've had my Alpine Type R subwoofer in for a few months and now I'm definitely ready for door speakers and a big amp for them.
I've had my Alpine Type R subwoofer in for a few months and now I'm definitely ready for door speakers and a big amp for them.