Blackcat Custom Gauge faces (Installed)
#42
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Originally Posted by Oric
Alright, so upon some further driving, I've come to the conclusion that my speedo is actaully about 4 mph fast, even with the needle resting below Zer0. I'm going to verify, but looking at my pictures i posted, i think the stock spacing dash angles are slightly off.
Like i said i want to check, but i figured i'd post about it
Like i said i want to check, but i figured i'd post about it
Is the fact that the needle needs adjusted....or the display is off spacing wise?
#43
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Once i get the moment to set up my GPS unit I'll let you know, thats about the most accurate way i can think of. Based off of where the needle rest (slighty below 0) i should be going about 3 mph slower than what it shows, but while i was on pearl harbor the other day, they had a speed trap set-up, i thought i was going about 23, it said i was doing 28. So that's where my concern kicked in. Im on duty today, but I'll try and remember to do it tomorrow
#44
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Originally Posted by Uin2it
Any updates on how off ur speedo is?
Is the fact that the needle needs adjusted....or the display is off spacing wise?
#46
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I installed the gauge faces this weekend. I had planned to keep the four center gauges stock and just replace the speedometer and tachometer faces but after looking at it that way, I found that the different fonts made them look out of place. So I have no pictures since they now look the same as already posted except that I got the extra tick marks around the outer silver edge.
I love the look of the speed and tach - the other gauges not so much. The font and size of the markings just seem too bold for the smaller gauges but I suppose I'll get used to it.
I used a GPS speedometer app on my phone to check the speedometer and it seems to be accurate all the way up to 75 mph. That makes me think that Clarke's issue is probably calibration rather than the markings on the gauge face.
A couple of notes for anyone planning this installation... some parts of the included instructions do not apply to our gauges.
1 - there is no adhesive holding the factory face to the cluster and none is necessary to install the new faces.
2 - either the "pry straight off" or the "twist off" methods of removing the needles will work. But I found (after a couple of tries) that it is not necessary to mark the original needle positions nor do you have to remove and reset the needles multiple times if you don't get them right the first time. Our gauges do a position reset when powered up (you see them sweep both ways). Before you first go to remove the needles, you can turn them a short distance counter-clockwise before you feel any resistance. Note that distance - it corresponds to about the distance between each mark on the face (i.e. the needle will move one mark below zero before you feel resistance). After you reinstall the needle, turn it gently counter-clockwise all the way around (it will click in steps as you turn) until you end up just one "click" before the zero mark. That will make it it feel like it did before installation - you can turn it back from zero about one mark before hitting resistance. When you plug the cluster back in (before you turn on the ignition), all the needles will rotate counter-clockwise against that "stop" before the zero and then come to rest on the zero mark. When you turn on the ignition, they will all sweep to the right and back as they should. If they don't settle on the zero mark, you don't have to pull the needles again (in fact, you don't even have to leave the car) - just turn them counter-clockwise (you may have to go all the way around) to adjust their starting position.
3 - the only tools you will need are something to pry the dash panel off (I used plastic interior trim removing tools but anything flat should work), a 7mm socket and handle, and a T15 Torx bit screwdriver. A magnet is extremely handy for getting the two dash screws out without losing them inside the dash. The T15 screwdriver is for three screws on the back of the cluster that secure the cover in addition to the clips around the outside edge.
4 - the bottom of the cluster assembly is held in place in the dash by two clips. You can grab under the center section (below the four center gauges) and pull straight towards yourself to release it.
I wore disposable medical gloves to prevent getting fingerprints on the gauge faces but it wasn't necessary - a soft microfiber cloth will get rid of marks quite nicely.
All in all it was a much easier installation than I had expected. Even being extremely cautious and taking my time, I had them done in less than 90 minutes. That includes installing just the speedo and tach the first time and then going back to install the center gauges so I expect an hour would be a reasonable time for installation.
I love the look of the speed and tach - the other gauges not so much. The font and size of the markings just seem too bold for the smaller gauges but I suppose I'll get used to it.
I used a GPS speedometer app on my phone to check the speedometer and it seems to be accurate all the way up to 75 mph. That makes me think that Clarke's issue is probably calibration rather than the markings on the gauge face.
A couple of notes for anyone planning this installation... some parts of the included instructions do not apply to our gauges.
1 - there is no adhesive holding the factory face to the cluster and none is necessary to install the new faces.
2 - either the "pry straight off" or the "twist off" methods of removing the needles will work. But I found (after a couple of tries) that it is not necessary to mark the original needle positions nor do you have to remove and reset the needles multiple times if you don't get them right the first time. Our gauges do a position reset when powered up (you see them sweep both ways). Before you first go to remove the needles, you can turn them a short distance counter-clockwise before you feel any resistance. Note that distance - it corresponds to about the distance between each mark on the face (i.e. the needle will move one mark below zero before you feel resistance). After you reinstall the needle, turn it gently counter-clockwise all the way around (it will click in steps as you turn) until you end up just one "click" before the zero mark. That will make it it feel like it did before installation - you can turn it back from zero about one mark before hitting resistance. When you plug the cluster back in (before you turn on the ignition), all the needles will rotate counter-clockwise against that "stop" before the zero and then come to rest on the zero mark. When you turn on the ignition, they will all sweep to the right and back as they should. If they don't settle on the zero mark, you don't have to pull the needles again (in fact, you don't even have to leave the car) - just turn them counter-clockwise (you may have to go all the way around) to adjust their starting position.
3 - the only tools you will need are something to pry the dash panel off (I used plastic interior trim removing tools but anything flat should work), a 7mm socket and handle, and a T15 Torx bit screwdriver. A magnet is extremely handy for getting the two dash screws out without losing them inside the dash. The T15 screwdriver is for three screws on the back of the cluster that secure the cover in addition to the clips around the outside edge.
4 - the bottom of the cluster assembly is held in place in the dash by two clips. You can grab under the center section (below the four center gauges) and pull straight towards yourself to release it.
I wore disposable medical gloves to prevent getting fingerprints on the gauge faces but it wasn't necessary - a soft microfiber cloth will get rid of marks quite nicely.
All in all it was a much easier installation than I had expected. Even being extremely cautious and taking my time, I had them done in less than 90 minutes. That includes installing just the speedo and tach the first time and then going back to install the center gauges so I expect an hour would be a reasonable time for installation.
Last edited by WhiteBird00; 11/5/12 at 07:48 AM.
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Gordondavid1961 (7/16/22)
#47
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Nice. I emailed them about a custom set for me, with adjusted font weights and markings (to better match the boss302 set). I hope to hear back and get them ordered soon.
#48
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One odd thing I've noticed is that it changes the blue lettering of the driver information center to a more green color. I'm not sure I like it because it stands out as being quite different from any other lighting in the dash.
#50
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I figured that was fast enough for a school zone.
It was accurate up to that speed and I had no reason to believe it would become inaccurate at higher speeds so I didn't test it any faster. Besides, I was around town and didn't want to draw the wrong kind of attention to myself.
It was accurate up to that speed and I had no reason to believe it would become inaccurate at higher speeds so I didn't test it any faster. Besides, I was around town and didn't want to draw the wrong kind of attention to myself.
#51
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Update for base model
"After looking into the 4 gauge version further, we have found that there is a design difference between the 4 gauge and the 6 gauge. We are looking to source a 4 gauge cluster in order to the make the design changes which being a new car, the clusters are harder to find. So unfortunately it will still be while before we are able to offer the 4 gauge gauge face for the 2013 Mustang. Please check back or check our website for updates."
"After looking into the 4 gauge version further, we have found that there is a design difference between the 4 gauge and the 6 gauge. We are looking to source a 4 gauge cluster in order to the make the design changes which being a new car, the clusters are harder to find. So unfortunately it will still be while before we are able to offer the 4 gauge gauge face for the 2013 Mustang. Please check back or check our website for updates."
#53
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Very nice. I could care less about the font on the numbers, but I just hate the white background on the gauges, just for going to a black background i fully support this mod.
#54
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I've been discussing new gauge faces with Black Cat Custom because I really want something not quite as bold that also has the OEM style range marking for oil, water and battery. They have been extremely helpful and responsive. After several versions we finally ended up with gauge faces that exactly match what I was looking for.
Here are the faces I got the first time:
And here are the gauges they are making for me this time:
So I guess I'll have a set of gauge faces for sale in a couple of weeks. Anybody interested in some half-price gauge faces for Christmas?
I can highly recommend these guys for the quality of their product and for their customer service.
Here are the faces I got the first time:
And here are the gauges they are making for me this time:
So I guess I'll have a set of gauge faces for sale in a couple of weeks. Anybody interested in some half-price gauge faces for Christmas?
I can highly recommend these guys for the quality of their product and for their customer service.
#55
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I'm having something similar done:
I am having them adjust the 60MPH hash slightly inboard to line up better,
Then I'm not sure about the MPH and RPM labels being in seperate spots. While it would make most sense to move the RPM down, I'm actually thinking about moving the MPH up.
edit, here's the version I approved (yeah, the MPH does stand out there, but I kinda like the look and feel of symmetry)
I am having them adjust the 60MPH hash slightly inboard to line up better,
Then I'm not sure about the MPH and RPM labels being in seperate spots. While it would make most sense to move the RPM down, I'm actually thinking about moving the MPH up.
edit, here's the version I approved (yeah, the MPH does stand out there, but I kinda like the look and feel of symmetry)
Last edited by CaptDistraction; 11/15/12 at 07:12 PM.
#56
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CaptDistraction.....Great choice on the ones you approved! My ultimate choice is very similar, ecept no hash marks on the halo and with a Pony logo in place of the MPH.
Might have to order these soon! Waiting to hear how yours turns out and see installed pics!
Might have to order these soon! Waiting to hear how yours turns out and see installed pics!
#58
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Originally Posted by CaptDistraction
I'm having something similar done:
I am having them adjust the 60MPH hash slightly inboard to line up better,
Then I'm not sure about the MPH and RPM labels being in seperate spots. While it would make most sense to move the RPM down, I'm actually thinking about moving the MPH up.
edit, here's the version I approved (yeah, the MPH does stand out there, but I kinda like the look and feel of symmetry)
I am having them adjust the 60MPH hash slightly inboard to line up better,
Then I'm not sure about the MPH and RPM labels being in seperate spots. While it would make most sense to move the RPM down, I'm actually thinking about moving the MPH up.
edit, here's the version I approved (yeah, the MPH does stand out there, but I kinda like the look and feel of symmetry)
#60
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