Aftermarket Keyless Start Button
V6 Member
Joined: July 12, 2015
Posts: 90
Likes: 5
Success! well kind of. Ended up making my own harness. Easygo system works as it should. However, now I have a Check Brake System warning and Check Advance Trak warning when the car starts. Seems like the traction control somehow became disabled. Obviously did not have these before. Any ideas?
V6 Member
Joined: July 12, 2015
Posts: 90
Likes: 5
I found out what I did. For some reason I unplugged 2280F and never put it back. Plugged it back in and all warnings stopped.
The only thing I have left to do is cut a key and stick in the ignition.
Jim, I really can't say how much I enjoy/love/absolutely hate (haha) all the hard work you have done with the mustang. I love my car even more after all the blood sweat tears and frustration. And feel I have learned so much. I've done your navigation upgrade, paddle shifters, and now the push start. Thank you!
By the way, if anyone is looking to do this and gets the kit from amazon, it will be missing parts. You'll have to call up Gryphon, the maker of Easygo and ask for Mark or Julio. 1-888-903-8777. The parts you'll need are the following:
- 16 pin harness (the one that comes is missing the brake line, door trigger, and trunk wires.
- The two wire door lock/unlock harness
- A different push start button (if you want to install it in the cigarette lighter) Otherwise, you will have to cut it into the dash.
- A new key fob that has the trunk button.
GT Member
Joined: April 21, 2014
Posts: 103
Likes: 5
From: Kentucky
Looks like I have the same issues still. Guess I need to call them back again...
What does the new keyfob look like? Want to make sure I have the correct one or not. I also do not have the correct 16 pin harness. How did you add the new wires if you don’t mind sharing it? Think the main thing is where did you get the pins to work in the plug just in case I want to just make my own?
Did you use wire taps or solder on the connections?
Thanks...
What does the new keyfob look like? Want to make sure I have the correct one or not. I also do not have the correct 16 pin harness. How did you add the new wires if you don’t mind sharing it? Think the main thing is where did you get the pins to work in the plug just in case I want to just make my own?
Did you use wire taps or solder on the connections?
Thanks...
Last edited by Kona12GT; Jun 3, 2018 at 06:07 PM.
V6 Member
Joined: July 12, 2015
Posts: 90
Likes: 5
Looks like I have the same issues still. Guess I need to call them back again...
What does the new keyfob look like? Want to make sure I have the correct one or not. I also do not have the correct 16 pin harness. How did you add the new wires if you don’t mind sharing it? Think the main thing is where did you get the pins to work in the plug just in case I want to just make my own?
Did you use wire taps or solder on the connections?
Thanks...
What does the new keyfob look like? Want to make sure I have the correct one or not. I also do not have the correct 16 pin harness. How did you add the new wires if you don’t mind sharing it? Think the main thing is where did you get the pins to work in the plug just in case I want to just make my own?
Did you use wire taps or solder on the connections?
Thanks...
Hey Kona,
I still have the original keyfob that came with the kit. I did realize that it does not have a trunk button since the the f-150 doesn't have a remote trunk. I have to call them today and see if I can get a new one.
As far as the harness, I found some molex connectors that would fit into the 16 pin harness. I looked at the instruction sheet that was posted by Jim. Its a little blurry, but you can make out where the pins go into the harness.
I am supposed to receive a new one from Gryphon. It was mailed last tuesday and still waiting...which is why I decided to just make my own. If I do receive it, I can send it to you.
I used wire taps, but I carefully stripped the wires first. I'm not that good with the soldering iron in small areas. Where I had to extend the wires across to the passenger side, I did solder them.
V6 Member
Joined: July 12, 2015
Posts: 90
Likes: 5
GT Member
Joined: April 21, 2014
Posts: 103
Likes: 5
From: Kentucky
GT Member
Joined: April 21, 2014
Posts: 103
Likes: 5
From: Kentucky
V6 Member
Joined: July 12, 2015
Posts: 90
Likes: 5
When you push the brake, does the push start button light up? If so, make sure the copper wire that goes around the ignition is around the black plastic piece that is near the end of the ignition cylinder. That is the sensor. I had a similar problem. Once I adjusted that and taped it down real well, it fired up.
GT Member
Joined: April 21, 2014
Posts: 103
Likes: 5
From: Kentucky
When you push the brake, does the push start button light up? If so, make sure the copper wire that goes around the ignition is around the black plastic piece that is near the end of the ignition cylinder. That is the sensor. I had a similar problem. Once I adjusted that and taped it down real well, it fired up.
GT Member
Joined: April 21, 2014
Posts: 103
Likes: 5
From: Kentucky
yeah, another wire that I am missing from the kit. Lol. They are trying to find me one.
V6 Member
Joined: July 12, 2015
Posts: 90
Likes: 5
Man, these "kits" on Amazon are terrible. At least the company is helping out. And yes, the directions are terrible too.
One thing I have noticed overall is that my door handle button doesn't always work. I have maybe an 85% chance of the door unlocking. It always locks though. Just sometimes I have to reach into my pocket to grab the fob to unlock. Also, no trunk button. At least I can't get mine to work. And I could not get the automatic arming to stop. Followed the directions and got the confirmation chirp/blink, but it still beeps and locks itself. I have an infant and a beagle that barks if a leave blows outside, so I wired in a switch to disconnect the horn.
I actually have my push start button disabled at the moment. Turns out it was unrelated, but my car was occasionally stalling while in bumper to bumper traffic. It would start right back up, but in order to do so, I had to push on the brake. Not fun. Long story short, it was a small vacuum leak on my boost gauge when I had the dash out to fix the AC. Had to tighten it up. Just need to find time to open the steering column to hook it back up.
One thing I have noticed overall is that my door handle button doesn't always work. I have maybe an 85% chance of the door unlocking. It always locks though. Just sometimes I have to reach into my pocket to grab the fob to unlock. Also, no trunk button. At least I can't get mine to work. And I could not get the automatic arming to stop. Followed the directions and got the confirmation chirp/blink, but it still beeps and locks itself. I have an infant and a beagle that barks if a leave blows outside, so I wired in a switch to disconnect the horn.
I actually have my push start button disabled at the moment. Turns out it was unrelated, but my car was occasionally stalling while in bumper to bumper traffic. It would start right back up, but in order to do so, I had to push on the brake. Not fun. Long story short, it was a small vacuum leak on my boost gauge when I had the dash out to fix the AC. Had to tighten it up. Just need to find time to open the steering column to hook it back up.
GT Member
Joined: April 21, 2014
Posts: 103
Likes: 5
From: Kentucky
Finally got the wire I needed. You were right, that wire location is very picky. Lol. Anyway, everything is working now like it should. Hopefully the kit is reliable. Now to save for the idatalink module so I can do away with that key box....lol. Thanks for all the help....
V6 Member
Joined: July 12, 2015
Posts: 90
Likes: 5
Finally got the wire I needed. You were right, that wire location is very picky. Lol. Anyway, everything is working now like it should. Hopefully the kit is reliable. Now to save for the idatalink module so I can do away with that key box....lol. Thanks for all the help....